Reddit Reddit reviews 10 Pack - EPAuto 12V Car Add-a-circuit Fuse TAP Adapter Mini ATM APM Blade Fuse Holder

We found 16 Reddit comments about 10 Pack - EPAuto 12V Car Add-a-circuit Fuse TAP Adapter Mini ATM APM Blade Fuse Holder. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Automotive
Replacement Parts
Automotive Replacement Lighting & Electrical Equipment
Automotive Replacement Electrical Equipment
Automotive Replacement Fuse Holders
Automotive Fuses & Fuse Accessories
10 Pack - EPAuto 12V Car Add-a-circuit Fuse TAP Adapter Mini ATM APM Blade Fuse Holder
Protect original circuitPlug into an existing fuse holderHeavy Duty 16 Gauge Red Color Wire15 AMP Fuse x 10Add-a-circuit Fuse x 10
Check price on Amazon

16 Reddit comments about 10 Pack - EPAuto 12V Car Add-a-circuit Fuse TAP Adapter Mini ATM APM Blade Fuse Holder:

u/Econolife-350 · 8 pointsr/LatinaCuties

Buy these instead you get ten times the fuseable links and they're high quality, I've used 8 of mine already. [Then wire the positive to this female USB adapter] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OXZ06I4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_seqXzb06KBW3B1292856) and ground the negative out to the body.

u/814816 · 6 pointsr/Dashcam

OPs link is the dual.


Pro tip. If anyone grabs this, buy 2x fuse taps (your proper sizing) so you don't have to have ugly wiring to your cig light port

u/cdude · 4 pointsr/Dashcam

Buy a fuse tap and a cigarette lighter socket. Then check your interior fusebox for an ignition-switched source. Tap into that then use whatever cigarette-to-usb adapter you want.

u/SnoT8282 · 3 pointsr/IdiotsInCars

Model of? Dash Cam? I have this one (https://www.amazon.com/Rexing-Dashboard-Recorder-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B00X528FNE), there's different versions/models from them. But I just wanted something basic and didn't want to spend a lot in case it turned out to be crap. Then you can get these https://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-Add-circuit-Adapter/dp/B01DYQM6EO and tap into a fuse if you don't have a free/open one.

u/fmjhp594 · 3 pointsr/amateurradio

I did that in my work truck.

USB is 5 volts, not 12. You will need a step down transformer. I used an 'add a circuit' to get switched power from my fuse panel. Ran the wire to a 12v plug behind my glove box. Then shoved a USB car charger into the plug. I ran a USB extension cable from the plug up beside my instrument panel and plugged in a 3 port USB bank. Now I can have three things plugged in at a time. The USB charger lasts about a year and a half to two years before it dies, but I use it heavily for work.

Add a circuit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DYQM6EO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

12v plug: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074CT5CSN?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/skytzx · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Along with the converter you linked, use an Add-a-circuit to tap into your fusebox (make sure you buy the ones with the right size for your truck). Use a multimeter to find which fuses are activated when your key is in the ignition.

Personally, I'm using a cigarette lighter socket and usb adapter (like this) instead to wire in my dashcam, but they both do the same thing as the converter you linked.

The last piece of the puzzle is having your Pi shutdown gracefully (via a switch), or even some sort of battery backup. This will prevent corruption of your microSD filesystem, which might occur when simply cutting power to the Pi. There are a bunch of different implementations online on how you can do this.

u/will1384 · 1 pointr/CarAV

On my car with how I have the Android mirror wired up it turns on with the key on ACC or when starting the car, and the Android mirror stays powered until I turn the key to OFF.

It took a lot of probing around to find the fuses I needed to tap off of, but the Android mirror came with a cheap but usable power probe tool that works even better than a multimeter for finding fuses with and without power.

I ended up using the two fuses:

u/LukeK-Dev · 1 pointr/ft86

Floor lights: https://www.amazon.com/LEDGlow-Million-Color-Underdash-Interior/dp/B004N6YRDS/ref=pd_day0_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BCYSQ22HXC5N63B4ZG2H

Add a fuse circuit: https://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-Add-circuit-Adapter/dp/B01DYQM6EO/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1511740880&sr=1-5&keywords=car+wire+taps

You will also need a 5 amp car fuse. Auto zone has them for about 1$.

Use the hood release bolt as a ground point for the lights.

If you run the wires correctly it looks 100% OEM I set the LED color to match the red trim on my car and it looks so good!

Zip ties help and a coat hanger to run the wires through tough spots.

u/happyevil · 1 pointr/FordFocus

It's really, really easy to add your own ambient lighting to the Focus (or any car really). Most LED strips are already 12v. They'd need an adapter from house wall power but in a car (the vast majority of them anyway) the 12V circuits are already there! If you're concerned about your own electrical knowledge they make kits too; they're pretty inexpensive and you could splice open that cigarette adapter line to wire it in directly or get something like this. Personally I'd buy my own strips, controllers, and hard wire it though (make sure you confirm controller works with your strip). Since you're in the footwell I'd also recommend weatherproof but it's not super necessary since it won't be directly exposed.

You could tap in to an accessory line/fuse to have them always on or get fancy and wire them in to the dash lighting for when the headlights are on so that they only come on at night. I just used these fuse taps the other day for a dash cam and radar detector install; make sure you have the right fuses for your install though. I had to pickup some lower amperage ones to properly protect my lower amperage gear.

Some LED strip lighting is easy to adhere or screw down depending on your preference and you can even get RGB and an IR/RF/bluetooth controller to customize.

Anyway, the whole thing should take nothing more than an hour or two and less than $100 in parts.

u/SoulScout · 1 pointr/Cartalk

Lights don't "pull 12v", they need 12v to work and then use/pull X amount of amps. I think you're confused by the difference between volts, amps, and how fuses work. Voltage is like the measure of force moving the electricity (electrons) through the wire, and amps is the measure of how much electricity is moving through the wires.


The fuse numbers are the rating that the fuse blows at, not how much that circuit uses normally. Like if your radio only uses 8A peak, then it would run through a fuse that is rated at 10A, so if it ever spikes above 10A, then the fuse blows and opens the circuit to protect from damage.


Anyway, I would pick a fuse slot that powers an accessory, like the radio fuse or the 12V accessory port(/cigarette lighter. Whatever you call it). So if the fuse were to blow, the only thing that is affected is just the lights and the accessory port.


Easiest thing to do is get a fuse tap and use it to install your lights. That way you don't have to cut any wires on your car and everything is properly protected. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-Add-circuit-Adapter/dp/B01DYQM6EO/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=fuse+tap&qid=1571284619&sr=8-3

u/firebirdude · 1 pointr/CarAV

Powering the mirror with a cig lighter.... LOL I can't believe they included that. That's really fucking stupid. LOL

Anyway, yes, you can extend the power wires for the mirror so they'll run up into the headliner, across to an a-pillar, down the a-pillar and to your fuse box. Find a fuse that turns on/off with the car and use one of these. 15A is more than enough.

u/striker1211 · 1 pointr/Dashcam

If you tap off the cigarette lighter and it is a 10A fuse or larger you will be fine as long as you aren't literally trying to use it as a cigarette lighter (the red glowing thing) as well. Buy some of the correct sized fuses for your car as spares off eBay for really cheap (or harbor freight) and keep them in your spare tire well. They can be a life saver. Never ever ever... ever... put in a larger fuse than what originally came in the fuse slot. The fuse is there to protect the wiring, not the devices.

Now, you can use a tap if you'd like and be fine if and only if you use the stock fuse and then a 5A fuse for the dash cam. Most dashcams only use 2A and they are getting more and more efficient so you should be fine. This method means you have to run it through the firewall which will suck. Plus you would likely have to cut a hole in the fuse box lid which could let water in which is bad. Do you have an auto-dimming mirror? You can splice power off of that too.

edit: By fuse tap I mean one of these: https://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-Add-circuit-Adapter/dp/B01DYQM6EO . Do not use the kind that just wedge in alongside the stock fuse. Those will stretch out the fuse prong slot.

u/ibanezrocker724 · 1 pointr/GoRVing

these add a circuit work great and allow for a fuse on both the original circuit and the added one. As long as you aren’t drawing crazy amps where the original wires can’t handle it your fine. A cell phone booster should be fine

u/locomotive · 1 pointr/Wrangler

I used fuse taps when I wired mine: https://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-Add-circuit-Adapter/dp/B01DYQM6EO (I didn't get these specific ones--my dashcam came with some already). Find a place in the fuse box to tap into switched or always-on power, plug in the original fuse, plug in the dashcam fuse, wire your power up to the other end, run it however and that's about it. No need to cut any wires or splice into anything with T-taps.


https://github.com/fochica/fochica-wiki/wiki/Fuse-tap-guide has lots more detail.

u/Roostah84 · 1 pointr/FJCruiser

I used these. No extra switch when i turn my key the lights come on. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DYQM6EO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share