Reddit reviews 3M Half Facepiece Reusable Respirator Assembly 6391/07003(AAD), Large, P100 Respiratory Protection 051131070030
We found 29 Reddit comments about 3M Half Facepiece Reusable Respirator Assembly 6391/07003(AAD), Large, P100 Respiratory Protection 051131070030. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Assembly includes Half Facepiece Respirator and Particulate Filter 2091 P100Half facepiece design combines comfort and convenienceRemarkably comfortable, soft, lightweight facepiece and easy-to-adjust head strapsRemovable filters can be replaced with NIOSH approved 3M filters and cartridgesNIOSH approved for environments containing certain oil and non-oil based particles
In the past, I've found that this mask works well in protecting one from spray and gas used by police during more, shall we say, extreme protesting situations. As for pepper spray in your eyes, nothing works as well as anti-fog scuba goggles. Are you going to look strange? Yes. Will you be able to see and breathe? Also, yes.
I'm still working on taser resistance. For the time being, thick clothing is your best defense. Jeans often won't do the trick, but I've seen thicker cargo pants do the trick and a thicker jacket, one that can prevent the barbs from coming into contact with your skin, work well enough. Layers help too, and considering how cold it is in many of the protest areas, it just makes sense.
Local exhaust - vacuum system, fans more likely. Wearing a tight fitting ANSI-approved respirator with p-100 particulate filters. Receiving appropriate training with the respirator is key - knowing how to achieve a good seal is everything, being clean shaven is a must.
If the exposure is frequent enough, you may ask your employer to sample for total dust and respirable silica for an 8 hour time weighted average of your exposure. However, if this is only happening once a day for a short period of time I can almost guarantee your exposure will be under the OSHA limit for silica which is .05 mg/meter cubed.
Even in my work(mining, drying, screening strictly silica in fine cuts) over-exposures are rare.
Either way - protecting yourself while doing the dusty tasks is just smart. The links below are for the respirators I wear/provide my people. The half mask is rated to protect over 10x the exposure limit, while the full mask is rated over 25x the exposure limit. Also linked are appropriate p100 filters
1/2 Face Respirator
Full face respirator
p100 filters
a post I made last year:
I have tried
The Respro is okay. Certainly the only stylish one i tried. One common feature of the masks is a moldable metal nose piece, that allows you to shape the mask to your face. The one on the respro is both the most durable, and the worst. Its stiffness makes it tough to form and reform. That said, the seal it forms seems to be fine, but getting a really good fit is hard, because it lacks a strap that goes over the ear. I'm sure you can get this style of mask in n99 or whatever.
The 3M n95 is the cheapest (by far), and the lightest. The fit is good, and the seal is adequate, although the seal is the worst of the four. The filter is more stiff like paper.
The 3M n100 is probably my favorite so far. The filter is more flexible like cotton. I generally don't worry about crushing it in my bag, except for the metal nose piece. The fit and seal are both excellent.
The 3M p100 is certainly the most hardcore. It's cost is the highest, but the replacement filters are cheap enough. I haven't used it much, but it's the one that the bicycle collective sells, which I consider to be a good marker.
Also I recently reached out to the American Lung Association about masks. Here is the last, most detailed response.
> USEPA sets a PM 2.5 annual air quality standard at 15ug/m3
This is a rolling 12 month average. There is also a 24 hour limit of 35ug/m3
These numbers are established for air quality in the air shed and not necessarily in the breathing zone – which is the most item relevant to your question.
These numbers are not extractable to breathing zone concentrations.
A healthy person should not have a need for any respirators, the respirator is recommended for those with impaired systems.
In addition, lung cancer is complex and there are other factors, which include air quality (type of pollutant), genetic disposition, and duration of exposure.
> Saying all this, it’s hard to make a recommendation on when to use the N95 disposable respirator to prevent lung cancer (knowing that the three factors above play a large role in the equation and outcome). If in doubt, or if you feel there is a need, wear the respirator (with proper fit) when there are air quality concern days).
Dust Collector - $239
Air Filtration - $139.99
As far as jointers - I'd stay away from the bench top ones. You'll find them useful for a short period of time, but then you'll realize you should have sprung for a bigger model. Along with a planer, I would look on CL for a decently priced used model. Obviously this doesn't work with your Amazon Gift card plan, but I wouldn't waste them. And buying a good jointer new off amazon is going to be out of your budget.
Jigsaw - $65.99
3M Respirator Mask - $15.97
As far as clamps, I would stick with Bessey clamps. I would price check Amazon vs Home Depot and see what's cheaper. If HD is cheaper, don't waste your Amazon GCs on them. HD tends to run Special Buys on them from time to time too.
Right now, you're just under $500. Do you plan on doing any hand tool work (i.e. chisels, handsaws)? If so, you can spend some on those tools as well.
Often it is. Just grab a cheap P100 respirator. Make sure to wash your clothes and shower as soon as you get home, and thoroughly wash your hair.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Facepiece-Respirator-Respiratory-Protection/dp/B001NDN29O/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=p100+respirator&qid=1556879922&s=gateway&sr=8-3
You've got a couple of nay-sayers in here, but I think you'd be fine with a P100 mask, contractor's goggles, Tyvek suit, and a rigged up negative air system using a box fan, some plastic sheeting, and a few furnace air filters. Wet down anything that looks suspicious with a pump sprayer (floor tiles, pipe insulation, popcorn ceiling, etc.) and double-bag using contractor grade bags. Dump the waste in a facility that will take asbestos etc.
The thing is, if you don't know it's asbestos, you're in the clear. If you get it tested then you might be legally obligated to have it abated by a licensed crew and disclose that when you go to sell.
http://www.amazon.com/3M-6391-P100-Reusable-Respirator/dp/B001NDN29O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1371316833&sr=8-2&keywords=p100
The price difference is like $50 for the safety gear (plus your time) or literally thousands for abatement.
As long as you are forging outside and keep your face out of the smoke, your exposure to hexavalent chromium will be minimal. Otherwise you should use some kind of exhaust hood over your forge or wear a cartridge respirator like this one: 3M P100 Respirator
The danger here is much like asbestos, your risk of getting sick (lung cancer) increases depending on the level and frequency of exposure. But unless you are eating it, you are unlikely to get sick at all on the same day or even the same week you are exposed. Most likely it will be years later.
As a forging material, I'm guessing it will work similar to 4140 if that isn't exactly what it is. It will probably get really hard to work as it cools, so hit when it's hot!
Do you know what kind of respirator to look for? Something like this is common. I have one like this and it does the job. As you can see you don't need much money. Hell, I'll buy it for you if you seriously can't afford one. Seriously.
Once you get into welding and making coin, then start looking into spending the money on a nicer respirator. Personally, I still use the ol' 3M because I work in the field.
Go to a local safety supply shop and they can give you a couple tips to make sure you're buying the right size.
For now at least wear a dust mask. Especially when you have grinding to do.
Yeah... Zinc-Oxide is shitty.
Where I work they give us 3M reusable respirators with "cookie" filters:
Respirator
Filter
Notice the cost: 40-50 bucks to get started... I change my filters twice a day for the pink cookies (4 hours per set), and use a pair per day if I'm using higher quality organic filters. P100 filters clog up pretty quickly and they aren't meant for much more than minor exposure.
Make sure you shave before using your filter - that's pretty important. In my opinion, you should be wearing a respirator for any welding your doing. Iron oxide and other welding particulates are not good for you. For some fumes, the health effects are up for debate on hazard levels, but I'm not gonna breath the stuff to find out when I'm 60.
If your shop is having you work with galvanized materials, buff the galvanizing off of the weld area (and the backside, too!) to minimize exposure - don't worry about removing the zinc, because the welding arc does that anyway. You'll also get cleaner welds and less likelihood of wormholes caused by zinc oxide gassing out through your puddle. Ask your employer to provide adequate protection. No vent system in the world will allow you to weld that stuff without inhaling even a little of it. Here is some info about welding galvanized materials.
I'm not sure if you can force your employer to provide respirators - you might want to look into OSHA regulations (if in the US, obviously) about it... You might also ask /r/legaladvice or something - maybe there's an attorney there who specializes in industrial health who can help you.
I went full P100 last year. No regrets.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Facepiece-Respirator-Respiratory-Protection/dp/B001NDN29O
Setting aside the question of "Is NBC protective gear worth the expense"... I think the best way to test, would be to wear and tighten the mask to fit, and then use something like banana oil or smelling salts to check for any leaks (assuming you are using P100 or better filters). As this blast-from-the-past website demonstrates: http://www.alpharubicon.com/basicnbc/gasmaskfit.htm
My understanding is that it takes a lot of time and regular training, to properly don NBC gear on short notice. A N95 or P100 dust mask or respirator, would definitely be helpful in the more common disasters (unrest, storms, flooding, etc). NBC protection requires a full suit, gloves, boots, etc. Would you have time to deploy all of that out of your car, before you are affected by a strike?
I don't know if I would trust old military gas masks, because you don't know how old they are, or what the storage conditions were. The savings would likely be eaten up by the uncertainty of getting old, expired, or ill-fitting gear. The stuff is surplus for a reason...
> The Lathe:
Sounds like you've got this well under control.
> The Tools:
There are very split camps on tools: replaceable carbide tips vs traditional tools. Personally I think both have a place, but I do feel it's best to start with traditional tools to learn the how and why tools work the way they do. My personal opinion is always to spend the real money on good tools. They don't have to be expensive, but the right tool of the right quality (sharp, of course) will make all the difference in the world. Every try to dig a post hole with a hand trowel? :)
Also don't feel bound by just one brand or type of tool...most of us have lots of tools!
You can go with carbide-tipped tools such as Easy Wood Tools, Simple Woodturning Tools, or other brands. You can make your own for a fraction of the cost to buy.
There are a few of good entry-level HSS sets out there for about $80, such as this frequently recommended set of Benjamin's Best. I also like Hurricane brand tools which I feel are excellent entry-level HSS tools for the money. Either of those would serve you well through the learning curve and a good ways into your turning career.
If you wanted to pick just two higher-end tools, I feel Crown's Pro PM are good for the price. I own several, they're nice, but the handles are a bit short for my knuckle-dragging frame! All you really need for the projects you listed is a skew chisel and a spindle gouge.
Lastly, you could buy some of the popular "buy it for life" tools like Thompson Lathe Tools or D-Way Tools. These are widely considered the upper end of turning tools with each tool running between $55-200 (handles sold separately). Many people who get serious about their hobby end up with these tools because the harder tool steels are more durable.
> The Bench Grinder:
The Rikon 80-805 is the most common good deal for a grinder. Occasionally some other Asia-import will pop up on the scene for a little while, but the Rikon is pretty predictable about going on sale. Also, it comes with two decent wheels to get you started; not all import grinders come with decent wheels.
Eventually you might want to invest in CBN wheels to replace the frangible wheels that come on the grinder, but that's probably down the road for you.
Lots of people use that grinder, I've not heard anything outright bad about it (although some people prefer one with more HP).
> Drill Press?
A cheap drill press will get you there just fine.
The most common alternative is to purchase a 4-jaw chuck, such as the Nova G3 (which requires the appropriate insert), and also a set of pen drilling jaws and a drill chuck for the tailstock. That lets you drill blanks entirely on the lathe (and with better accuracy than a drill press IMO).
The downside is that the 4-jaw chuck, insert, jaws, and drill chuck collectively will cost damn near $200, which is a lot more than a cheap drill press. The upside is that the chuck is exactly what you will need if you decide to get deeper into turning and want to try bowls, boxes, and other things. Many of us already owned or planned to own a chuck, so the only real cost addition was the pen drilling jaws and the drill chuck.
> Pen turning attachments
If you plan on using something else for the finish, make sure you buy what you need.
>Construction grade dust mask
what exactly do you mean by this? because this respirator with p100 filters has made it possible to clean the cage or sit near the cage for playtime without the never ending asthma attacks.
my allergen comes from the chinchillas themselves, not the hay/dust/bedding. it's the same saliva protein that makes me allergic to other rodents and cats.
you may also consider seeing an allergy specialist and ask about possible treatments.
My welding school has an awful ventilation system. I started wearing this and it made a world of difference.
I have a beard and glasses, and I use the 3M 6391, and it works pretty darn well. The critical part for me is that it doesn't fog up my glasses, which just about every other dust mask I've used does.
I went with this 3M respirator. It directs your exhales downward, away from glass. I've mainly only worn it with my shield because I wear--prescription--glasses. No fogging on either. And I've found that wearing it the entire time I'm in my shop to be best because it's the invisible particles that are most dangerous. This is the model I got--https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001NDN29O/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1493025144&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=3m%2Brespirator&dpPl=1&dpID=41J7eFCI06L&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1
I use a respirator and a cleaning pot.
The paints don't get into the air too much, but the airbrush cleaner does.
For anyone else reading, you don't need an $80 mask, any NOSH P-100 rated particulate respirator will do just fine, including this one. Just make sure you have a good seal on your face and shouldn't be an issue.
The nose-pinch masks are next to useless. Get a cartridge-type mask without the carbon/organics canisters, just the particulates - example.
Are the 3M P100 masks reliable?
What is the use case for particle masks in preparedness?
I had considered getting chemical protection masks but hadn't considered particle masks before.
Not even close!
N100 or P100 RESPIRATOR is what you need, a paper mask or n95 will not protect you.
This is the studio standard: 3M Half Facepiece Reusable Respirator Assembly 6391/07003(AAD), Large, P100 Respiratory Protection https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NDN29O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Fw3nDb3BJ2ST0
It's not open for editing.
If you want to be a special snowflake with AEG:
http://www.evike.com/products/28057/
http://www.evike.com/products/44132/
http://www.evike.com/products/27499/
http://www.evike.com/products/30997/
If you want to commit to post-apocalyptic:
http://www.evike.com/products/28628/
http://www.evike.com/products/29433/
http://www.evike.com/products/43059/
http://www.evike.com/products/33827/
http://www.evike.com/products/34794/
For either:
http://www.evike.com/products/44135/
http://www.evike.com/products/42373/
http://www.evike.com/products/46340/
http://www.evike.com/products/29189/
http://www.evike.com/products/48438/
http://www.evike.com/products/44913/
http://www.evike.com/products/46949/
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A3HG1NK/ (Ivy Green)
http://www.amazon.com/Hee-Grand-Classic-Winter-Chinese/dp/B00GRS3EOS/ (green)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006GAKE0O/
Alternative lore-friendly face protection (use with whatever goggles you prefer that are also impact rated):
http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Splash-Safety-Mask-Shield/dp/B001UHC0HI/
http://www.amazon.com/3M-6391-P100-Reusable-Respirator/dp/B001NDN29O/
> Something tells me that car exhaust, brake dust, indoor pollutants and all other the crap that we breathe may be problematic:
I think this is known. Perhaps not by the general public, but we have done a lot in the last few decades to improve the air quality in our homes and workplaces.
You mentioned truckers... emissions on cars and trucks are way stricter than they used to be and OSHA has a whole set of regulations regarding diesel exhaust:
https://www.osha.gov/dts/hazardalerts/diesel_exhaust_hazard_alert.html
There is ever increasing regulation on the use of respirators on job sites and it seems like every year there is a new set of chemicals that are banned from use or tightly controlled (asbestos, VOCs...).
Also, you can't buy a house anymore without having a radon test done.
The general message is: be mindful of what you breath. Whenever you are in a dusty environment, you should ware one of these, at a minimum, with the correct filter: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001NDN29O/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1T2QV8RUJMJWO
I had exactly the same issue & did the abatement project myself. The tiles tested between 9% & 11% chrysotile. If you choose to lift them up obviously you want to do so without breaking them but use of a 3M mask & P100 filter suffices for protection this sort of friable (crumbly) material becoming an airborne hazard. I lifted tiles with a tile chipper (not ideal but the adhesive was a real bugger). Next step is liberal use of an asbestos surfactant like Fiberlock for the cleanup.
http://www.amazon.com/3M-6391-P100-Reusable-Respirator/dp/B001NDN29O
http://www.fiberlock.com/asbestos/6450.html
Your local landfill will have protocol for disposing of asbestos and you'll have to contact them. See your local Acklands Grainger type of outlet for the yellow asbestos 6mm poly bags they request you use (often double-bagged is the policy).
Your local industrial lab type place will be able to come and do a spot check & air clearance test to quell your fears about how good of a job you did. I left a table out during the process and left the 3' surface undisturbed while moving it around the work area as required - I had them take the spot test on that table in addition to the air clearance test. All was well below acceptable exposure levels - < .01% particulate matter was asbestos.
Leave them down if possible. The risk is there but it's manageable. The truth is, it's safe material as long as you don't bust the tiles - sealing it really isn't necessary. Something more cost effective (and quicker) than epoxy would be a rolled commercial PCB flooring product which is glued down and glued together laterally at the seams.
Cheers.
something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/GVS-Elipse-SPR457-Respirator-Medium/dp/B013SIIBFQ/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480281433&amp;sr=8-10&amp;keywords=p100
or this?
https://www.amazon.com/3M-6391-P100-Reusable-Respirator/dp/B001NDN29O/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480281433&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=p100
Thanks!
This really depends on a lot of things. The kitchen is usually the primary source of indoor air pollution. I have a PM2.5 monitor and cooking bacon and eggs puts it off the chart. It's extremely important to have good ventilation when you cook (which most kitchens don't have). I've also encountered terrible indoor air quality around town in restaurants, etc.
If you live in Salt Lake and don't want to die young a HEPA filter is a sound investment. They are not crazy expensive and I've verified with my particulate counter that they do work very well. I have purchased probably a dozen of this one because its cheap and effective but there are other options that are more quiet. I have two in my home and the rest around the office or given away to friends. They have an updated model that I have not used here. I will sometimes travel with one if its convenient.
While I'm on the subject. This is unrelated to what you said but here is some more pertinent info about Utah air quality:
Car air filters surprisingly do a good job and I read very low pm2.5 concentrations even when driving down i-15 on an inversion day in traffic, but there are also air scrubbers designed to run off the 12v in your car.
If you're going outside for longer than 15 minutes and especially if you are exercising, wear a P100 rated mask such as this one.
During inversion season I take my air quality meter around and test all over the place and post the results to twitter if anyone is interested. The numbers reported by the state are accurate in the sense that they give a baseline by which to measure trends over time, but they are completely inaccurate in terms of what you will actually encounter when you go outside. You can expect to encounter up to DOUBLE what the state reports. A local hero has set up a network of sensors that will give you a better idea of what is going on. You can find the info at purpleair.org you can also host your own sensor.
Thousands of people are dying each year due to our poor air quality. It is taking YEARS off of our lives. So the last thing I'm going to say is please support initiatives to expand public and alternative transportation, promote clean energy, and to eliminate major sources of pollution in the valley. Demand from your candidates that they make air quality a priority. Other cities around the world have made real positive impacts on their air quality just by trying, so it's not impossible.
Damn, you need to address that right away. As a contractor, I can tell you mold is extremely dangerous. It's also a good reason to not do it yourself. Spores are very durable and you can easily track them throughout your house or worse if you have a forced air heating system. If you cut a hole in the wall cavity and see water damage and mold then make sure you wear a proper mask before doing any work, http://www.amazon.com/3M-6391-P100-Reusable-Respirator/dp/B001NDN29O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458778240&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=p100
I bought a cheap hazmat suit (I couldn't find yellow without dumb shit all over it) and respirator (I know, not a full mask but I'm a broke-ass college student).
Can't find glasses for shit though.
The easiest recommendation is to have an actual particle mask fitted well like this one NOT A PAINT MASK, and do it outside. Make sure you don't sand through any traces!
If you cannot go outside for some reason, do it in the bathroom with the hot shower running. this lets water bind to the particles and settles them quickly, but they'll still be in your house, so I'd really recommend you go outside.
The flip side is just sand or melt the plastic a bit. I never modify PCBs, I just modify the case :)