Reddit Reddit reviews 3M Scotch-Brite General Purpose Hand Pad, 6-Inch by 9-Inch, 20-Pad

We found 4 Reddit comments about 3M Scotch-Brite General Purpose Hand Pad, 6-Inch by 9-Inch, 20-Pad. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

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3M Scotch-Brite General Purpose Hand Pad, 6-Inch by 9-Inch, 20-Pad
Load resistantPerforms like steel wool grade 1 without splinteringExcellent starting point to clean, finish, grain, denib and defuzzMay be used by hand, with a hand pad block, or on an in-line sanderMade of aluminum oxide6-by-9-Inch general purpose hand pad ideal for hand finishing and cleaning of woods, metals and compositesExcellent starting point to clean, finish, grain, denib and defuzzVery fine grade aluminum oxide for abrasionIncludes 20 hand pads
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4 Reddit comments about 3M Scotch-Brite General Purpose Hand Pad, 6-Inch by 9-Inch, 20-Pad:

u/SanadaUjiosan · 3 pointsr/bikewrench

Canti's take a lot of nuance to set up well; it took me several years before I got it down. I don't know if I can convey all of my tricks well in text but I'll try.


The first thing is it's all about angles. The height of the yoke, and the angle of the caliper arms in their resting position are good indicators. You want to start by getting the yoke in the right position. Shimano's "yokes" are called "link wires" I guess... according to Sheldon Brown... I always try to use these as I find them easier to work with. There's usually a line indicator to help you set them up, basically you want that "link wire" to be about a 90 degree angle when the brake is resting. When it's set up right, the caliper arms will be close to parallel when resting. You definitely don't want the tops of the arms pointing in, but you also don't want them pointing too far out.

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After that I use a toe strap or something similar to hold the brake lever in a slightly pulled position. Depends on the length of lever and how it all feels but I usually do it 2 finger widths from the bar, sometimes 3. You're setting the "bite point" of the brake, aka the moment in the lever pull when the pads first contact the rim. With the toe strap holding the brakes at this position, I then install/adjust my pads. I put them up square against the rim. This works best with pads like Kool Stops Eagle 2's that have a little bit of built in toeing (the backs kind of angle out like a "claw") but honestly I've found it works ok with normal pads like Shimano's too. A lot of people will probably protest me here and say you need to toe them some. You certainly can, I just find I don't have to often. Why? I always, always, always clean a dirty rim. I use the "purple stuff", which seems to be called aluminum oxide scotch brite. The last shop I worked at used it all the time so I always try to keep some at my bench now. Clean up rims with it, sand the pads down a little, and a lot of your brake squeal problems will go away.

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Like everything it just takes time and familiarity. I also "cheat" by using large channel lock pliers to adjust the angle of the whole pad if it just needs a slight adjustment, instead of loosening and re-tightening the hardware.

u/tachikomatic1978 · 1 pointr/Fixxit

I've removed clear coat with 3M pads, they come in a variety of grits and leave a nice surface finish if you're careful with them. https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Brite-General-Purpose-6-Inch-9-Inch/dp/B000LPN3WQ

u/silentivan · 1 pointr/Fixxit

If you can get your hands on some brown 3M Scotch-Brite (the pads, not discs), it'll be less hard on the metal than the steel wool the next time around.

u/Micahdo · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

I have not tried this on a SS mod specifically, but I am a machinist by trade and we use Scotch-brite to polish various steel, brass and aluminum parts. I use it on my copper Stingray and it puts a bunch or super fine scratches on it that give it a really nice (in my opinion) matte shine. They are cheap enough from wally to try it out.