Reddit reviews Actron CP7605 Dwell/Tachometer/Voltmeter Analyzer
We found 2 Reddit comments about Actron CP7605 Dwell/Tachometer/Voltmeter Analyzer. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Reads dwell and tachometer ranges on all conventional automotive ignition systems excluding coil on-plugTests points on the breaker-point ignition systemsComes with large, easy-to-read analog meterZero adjuster is used to zero the meter pointer when making resistance measurements1-year warranty
I use this thing: https://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP7605-Tachometer-Voltmeter-Analyzer/dp/B00062YUUS/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8, which looks like it's out of production. But this thing looks alright too...https://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP7677-Automotive-TroubleShooter-Multimeter/dp/B0002LZU7K/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=dwell+tach&qid=1557710630&s=automotive&sr=1-2
I think on your model you just connect it to the battery (mine goes on the coil however). The directions should say how to hook it up. Generally you just set it to "4 cyl." and it should read somewhere between 600-3500 rpm.
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If we think it's the carburetor (choke specific), it's important to rule out anything else. Here's a list of things to check before adjusting the carburetor:
- NO vacuum leaks. This includes intake & exhaust manifolds, carburetor base, pcv hose, brake booster hose, AND all 3mm hoses like the vacuum advance or smog lines. Vacuum leaks can mess with your idle speed. Basically anywhere there's a vacuum connection, make sure it's not leaking. I like to replace all rubber and spray carb cleaner around metal connections.
- Timing and distributor air gap. You can set these things even with the fast idle you've got. It just has to be running (unless you do a static adjustment, which I don't know how to do). Just get a timing light and some brass feeler gauges. Timing = 8deg BTDC, Air Gap = .008" to .016"
- Valve Adjustment. As the engine is recently rebuilt, this probably isn't an issue. Anyways: Intake = .008", Exhaust = .012", HOT.
- Float Level. Look at the glass on the front of the carb. The fuel level should be right in the middle. If it isn't take the top off the carb, flip it upside down and do this: https://board.marlincrawler.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi94.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fl104%2Fspcmike%2FDSC03557.jpg&hash=77ab726ca7e4065975c0b98df09b6f94
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Questions: You say it sometimes won't idle at all at startup. Will it idle once warm? If so, does the idle go down to more of a normal speed when warm? Also, when it doesn't start correctly, is the engine hot or cold?
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It could be that both the choke adjustment and the basic idle adjustment are off. It may be that they're adjusted for the old, worn out engine that you rebuilt, which is why it used to work. It shouldn't be too hard to adjust. I like to do the idle first, then choke. If you need any more info, I'll be around. Best of luck.
To adjust an idle screw while the ECU is disengaged. I need the idle RPM to read 700RPM before I re-engage the ECU, then once I have that set I have the base to mess with another idle screw of the mass air flow sensor that the ECU reads. It actually purrs with the computer disengaged from the fuel ratio system, but I don't want to damage the catalytic convertor if I start running rich, as having disengaged the ECU will also stop reading the O2 sensor. I'm thinking this, is what I will buy as it has a tachometer as well as a volt analyzer too. I researched and the auto parts stores don't lend out electronics further than their eyesight, so I'm probably just going to buy that one from amazon.