Reddit reviews AEM (30-4110) UEGO Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge

AEM (30-4110) UEGO Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N3VGPYS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_a2CPCbXQA9308

Hold on there.

ANY changes you make to the pipes need matching changes at the carbs. The ones you've got on there are junk (factory CV carbs) and there's no guarantee they're tuned correctly to the pipes NOW. In fact, getting CV carbs to work right with pod filters like you've got is a tricky proposition. Who tuned those carbs? If it was you, and you're asking the questions you're asking now...um...odds are it's not in a great state as is.

If you're willing to swap carbs, any of the Mikuni VM34 kits will kick major ass over what you've got. Faster overall, faster throttle response, easier to tune to match pipes and genuinely likes pod filters like you have here. Don't go with a VM36 kit unless you're doing big motor mods (cam, big-bore kit, head porting).

Next issue. That pipe isn't the best in terms of cornering clearance. If you want max handling out of this beast you might want to consider cutting those pipes in front of the motor, extending them under the frame, merging them the same distance down as the merge point you have, and then bring the pipe out from under the bike not that far from the rear tire.

I wrote a bit about pipes (and carbs) here:

http://www.motorbikemondays.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/CafeRacerGuide-1.pdf

So with all that said, now I can answer your question!

I like SuperTrapp generic mufflers. Measure the diameter of whatever pipe you end up with where the muffler is going to go and order from Summit. This is one batch:

https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/supertrapp/product-line/supertrapp-s-c-standard-mufflers?autoview=SKU

They also come in chrome and different lengths. Note the differences in inlet diameter.

SuperTrapp mufflers can be tuned as to the back-pressure by removing or adding disks. This also changes the sound. It also changes how the carb needs to be tuned to match the muffler, or if you get it close you can fine-tune the muffler to the carb instead of the more common method of only tuning the carb.

With me so far?

OK. One last thing. When I wrote that guide I didn't know about these:

https://www.amazon.com/AEM-30-4110-UEGO-Ratio-Gauge/dp/B00N3VGPYS

For about $200 (plus you need to weld a nut-thing on the pipe or muffler) you get total knowledge of what the fuel/air ratio REALLY is. You only need this gauge while tuning it (with an exception I'll mention in a sec). It's annoying to try and permanently mount because the cable it comes with from the sensor to the gauge is too damn long and you can't cut it (if you do the calibration will be fucked). But with this, you can absolutely fine-tune the carb's settings to the pipe and get the mixture dead-nuts accurate even if this is your first time tuning this shit :).

---

Now I'll add one more oddity...and this is a setup I'm considering.

These crazy fuckers have a BUNCH of modifications available for Mikuni VM series carbs:

http://thunderproducts.com/

They've got dial-adjustable jetting. You can adjust jetting WHILE RIDING. No shit. You can also add more jets, like the Thunderjet for top-end power.

So. What does this mean?

For one, you can alter the settings for different altitudes, using the Thunder Products Intellajet and Thunderjet stuff to fine-tune the carbs and use the fuel/air gauge to know that your on-the-seat re-tuning is accurate.

That, in theory, would give you the most advanced carb (and pipe!) setup on the goddamn planet.

Air/Fuel gauge $170
http://www.amazon.com/AEM-30-4110-UEGO-Ratio-Gauge/dp/B00N3VGPYS
__
12V Impact wrench $25
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-1-2-half-inch-emergency-impact-wrench-92349.html
__
Cylinder head temperature gauge, $39
http://www.amazon.com/Trail-Tech-Temperature-Meter-72-ET3/dp/B0031BIWX2
__
Roller weight tuning kit $33 (there are different weight sizes, what scooter?)
http://www.amazon.com/Prima-Roller-Weight-Tuning-16x13/dp/B00LESCZHS
__
Or a set of a range of carb jets. Again, need to know the scooter type.
__
Scooter Dyno $12,000 hahaha
http://www.dynojet.com/products/dynamometers/dynomodelsd12/dynojet-dynamometer-sd12.aspx


I've never used most of these, so I can't review them. They look interesting to me though.

Hey, scrotch!

I only now remembered, "Wait, I was supposed to respond to that Redditr's comment!" I am 26 years old with the memory of a perpetually stoned grandpa'.

Onto the nitty-gritty:

• A voltage meter is a great idea! Since our bikes are a bit temperamental with electricity, I eventually decided it was a worthwhile instrument to add to the bike. And good call on the R/R; the stock unit is poorly designed, evidently. I like the upgrade to the LED lights; less draw but brighter. I always thought the stock ones lacked the necessary attraction to other drivers during night. You can also upgrade the instrument cluster lights to LED ones. Someone has a write-up on that on ducati.ms
  
  
• Yes it does require welding. My bike is currently getting the works and I do not have pictures of my setup, but my friend snapped a few pictures of his project.
  
  IIRC, I purchased an AEM (30-4110) UEGO. It came with the Lambda Sensor Unit 4.9. All that was required was having a bung welded into the header and a way to mount the gauge.
  
  For us carb'y owners, especially those with split FCRs, this makes tuning our carbs more exact than our butt-dyno, and less costly than hours on the dyno. It's a wide-band, so it gives accurate readings between 10:1 and 20:1.