I'll make a list of stuff you need. For the best "bang for your buck" in the $200ish price range.

-----------------------------------------

Speaker wire. Amazon Basics makes great stuff. If you want, you can get 100 feet of it for an extra $2 I think. You can get those monoprice banana plugs if you want. They just help if you're going to be switching speakers around a lot.

Simple wire stripper. Should work just fine.

Cable to plug it in. That'll just plug the amp into a computer. And that cable is amazing quality. For real. I don't know what it is about it, but the moment I touched that cable I knew it was special. This isn't a joke either. You'll understand when you get one. Trust me.

50 watt per channel amp. This thing will be more than enough. I just like it because it is open box, so cheap. The same one new on amazon is $65. If you want to order from amazon, you can just get the smsl sa-36a. Same amp, just 20 watts per channel. Which, again, is plenty.

[Here's that cheaper smsl amp] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017W13OR0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_U2NSBbTRHGFS5). I've got a few of them. They're great. This is what I'd go for if the other one is sold out.

Cheap but good little amp. I don't have one of these because I'm not a fan of the looks, but they get great reviews and a lot of people really like them.

---------------

Speakers:

Miccas. These things are nice for that price. In this price range, you really won't be getting anything better unless you go DIY.

Fluance SX6. These guys are big, but they throw a good amount of sound and some pretty deep bass for a pair of bookshelf speakers. Careful, they're pretty big.

Pioneer. These things are decent, but I think the Fluances would be better for this price. The SX6s throw more bass, which is good if you're not getting a sub. However, these are smaller.

Fluance signature series. I know, you said your budget is only $200, but you said if you need to spend more, then you will. These will sound better than all of the other speakers linked, however, that's not why they're here. I put them here for two reasons. The first is that they're front ported. Most people that are new to speakers might put them up against a wall or close to it, not understanding that the port needs some room to breathe. These have front ports so that's not a problem. The second reason, just look at them. If you really care about looks, these ones are the ones. They're beautiful. (My opinion obviously).

Oof almost forgot. Pleaae don't place the speakers directly on your desk.

--------------------------------

That's a lot. I'll sum it up with my opinion and why.

Amp: smsl sa36a. For close range, you don't need anything with more power. This thing will do whatever you need for bookshelf speakers.

Speakers: micca mb42x. Why? Here's why: for this price range, you won't notice a huge difference in any speakers, unless you get some bad ones. So, get the cheapest ones you can. Later on, if you can afford to upgrade them, you'll probably want to do that. Then you'll have a pair of $80 speakers that you don't need rather than a pair of 130 speakers that you don't need. Another reason I would pick the miccas is because they punch above their price range. Most people say they sound more like a pair of $125 speakers rather than a pair of $80 speakers. So, for real, they're good. Also, they're the smallest of the bunch.

Or, build a pair of C Notes and get something way better than any of these.

Hope this helps!

I love the look of the old rack systems. They may not have top of the line components but they still sound pretty good.

It looks like your setup was well taken care of! If I were you I would do the following:

• Before you play any records examine the stylus on the turntable tonearm and replace it if it looks worn or corroded. It looks like this is the stylus you need but you'll need to compare what's actually on your turntable before ordering
  
• Before you play any cassettes clean and demagnetize the cassette deck heads. A simple cotton swab and some rubbing alcohol on the head will clean it, and an inexpensive tape head demagnetizer is all you need. Here's a video guide on demagnetizing
  
• Get a Chromecast Audio and a 3.5mm to RCA cable so you can enjoy your tunes without the compression problems of Bluetooth.
  
• Get rid of the books and binders and other junk and fill up your shelves with records, cassettes, and CDs!

Yes, just like Logitech’s

But use a 3.5mm to rca cable

They may come with a cable?

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B01D5H8JW0

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01D5H8JW0/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1521569641&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=3.5mm+to+rca&dpPl=1&dpID=51FIuNodkWL&ref=plSrch

Correct.

This is all you need for speaker wire for those speakers if you are not running them more than 25 ft from the amp. https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Audio-Stereo-Speaker/dp/B006LW0WDQ/ref=sr_1_4

RCA cables do not have to be expensive. These cables will work fine https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B01D5H8JW0/

If you have the room for it, the best deal on amplification is often to look for a used audio video receiver on your local Craigslist. People tend to upgrade AVRs that are ~ 10 years old in order to buy the latest models that support Dolby Atmos ceiling speakers. If your video card has an extra HDMI out, you can also run audio to an AVR using that instead of RCA cables.

Or did you have a separate budget for the amplifier?

And output is exactly that. It outputs sound. Your Chromecast needs an INPUT because it is sending sound IN to your receiver. You need a 3.5mm to RCA adapter cable. Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8JW0/ref=twister_B01MDKJXCH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

You can pick on up at radioshack or wal mart.

Then you plug the 3.5mm end into your Chromecast and the RCA ends into your CD or DVD inputs that show in your folder.

It's easy: get a cassette deck if you don't already have one, then a stereo cable with a 3.5MM plug on one end and two RCA plugs on the other, like this. Connect your phone to the input jacks on the deck, play your music (Spotify, etc.) at about 80% volume, and set the record level on the deck so the peaks are at 0db and make a test recording. If it sounds OK to you on playback (no obvious distortion) then you're good: make those playlists and start cranking out tapes.

If your files are on a PC/laptop (rather than a phone) and you don't want to transfer them the process is still the same-- just plug that 3.5mm plug into your headphone jack on the computer.

Connect a cable like the following (3.5 mm to RCA) from your motherboard's line out to the Magni 2:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8JW0

Max out the volume in Windows, and then use the Magni 2's knob to adjust the volume up and down, going forward.

Speaker wire and self adjusting wire strippers or basic.

Mediabridge 3.5mm Male to 2-Male RCA Adapter (6 Feet) or Monoprice 6ft Premium 3.5mm Stereo Male to 2RCA Male 22AWG Cable Gold or 3.5mm to 2-Male RCA Adapter Cable - 4 Feet

Make sure your desk has enough space for for the deep S15s.

Also check out the Dayton options. Dayton Audio DTA-2.1BT with 2 aux and bluetooth inputs or Dayton Audio DTA-120BT with headphone out and bluetooth. Or a bit more for one with a USB DAC Micca OriGain $100. Or the SMSLs with USB DAC and remote SMSL AD13, SMSL Q5 PRO.

First double check that your PC doesn't have a combo jack (3.5mm analog and 3.5mm optical in the same port). a lot of modern PCs (especially macs) have this and if that's the case this is your best bet for audio. This is what you'd want.

​

If you're using HDMI output (especially if you're using a receiver or multiple HDMI inputs), something like this is a good choice.

​

If not, your next best bet is a internal soundcard with optical output (like this one) if it's a desktop, or an external USB soundcard with an optical output if it's a laptop (like this one).

​

If neither of these work, and/or you're on a device that only has a 3.5mm analog output and nothing else, you can use one of these with one of these adapters. It's known as an analog to digital converter (ADC) and will take in analog (RCA/3.5mm) and convert it to a digital format like optical. This isn't super recommended, as it add extra conversion steps to the process and will reduce the sound quality of your soundbar somewhat unless you pay out extra money for a high quality professional ADC.

Headphones:

• AKG K612 Pro
  
• AKG K701
  
• AKG K702
  
• Audio-Technica ATH-AD700x
  
• Audio-Technica ATH-AD900x
  
• Beyerdynamic DT880
  
• Beyerdynamic DT990
  
• Philips Fidelio X2
  
• Sennheiser HD558/HD579
  
• Sennheiser HD598/HD599
  
  Headsets:
  
  
• Massdrop x Sennheiser PC37X
  
• Sennheiser Game One
  
  

  
  

  
  I have Audio-Technica ATH-AD700X, Beyerdynamic DT990 (600 ohms), Philips Fidelio X2 and Sennheiser HD598 of these.
  
  AD700X has subdued sub-bass and emphasized treble. It has clean bass and a little harsh treble. It has a huge soundstage, excellent imaging, separation and clarity, and great detail retrieval.
  
  DT990 has subdued sub-bass, emphasized mid-bass and very emphasized treble. It has clean bass and a little sharp and splashy treble. It has a huge soundstage and excellent imaging, separation, clarity and detail retrieval.
  
  Fidelio X2 has emphasized sub-bass, mid-bass and treble. It has clean bass and, as far as I remember, smooth treble. (The stock earpads caused channel imbalance, so I discarded them around a year ago, and haven't bought new stock earpads yet.) The soundstage is very wide, like the others I've mentioned, but it lacks some depth. It's probably only noticeable if you play competitively or compare it side-by-side with headphones that are deeper. This affects the imaging from front to back. The imaging from left to right is excellent. Separation and clarity are excellent. Detail retrieval is great, but the bass overpowers/masks sound cues a lot.
  
  HD598 has subdued sub-bass and is mid-forward. It has clean bass, smooth treble, and excellent clarity. I haven't used it much, so my impressions are that it has a large soundstage and good imaging, separation and detail retrieval.
  
  

  
  

  
  K701 and K702 are too hard to drive for the MixAmp. K612 might be loud enough, but is said to sound much better with a dedicated headphone amplifier. You can use an amp with the MixAmp. You'd need a 3.5mm-to-RCA cable and a TRRS Y-splitter. The featured amp is Schiit Magni, which has been replaced by Magni 3 and is a very powerful amp. It can also drive the 600-ohm version of DT990 and DT880.
  
  To use an amp without the MixAmp, you'd need a DAC (digital-to-analog converter), e.g. FiiO D3, Schiit Modi 2 Uber or Topping D30. There's a common problem with reversed left and right channels when using USB DACs, so use one with optical unless the product officially supports PS4. You'd need an RCA-to-RCA cable to connect the amp to the DAC. You could use a DAC-amp instead, like Micca Origen G2. It can't be connected to the MixAmp, only separate amps can.

You can get something like this https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8JW0

Yes, you likely don't need a DAC.

You should be able to connect your computer directly to the magni 3 using RCA cables out of your motherboard. Or you can use a headphone out with a 3.5mm -> RCA adapter to connect to the magni 3.

With the JDS atom amp, you can put a 3.5mm (standard audio input) directly into the back from any device instead of having to deal with an adapter, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B01D5H8JW0

Yes, you need a DAC, but you can use the one built into your phone (or any device with a 3.5mm/headphone output). You'll need a 3.5mm to RCA cable like this (I'm assuming you're using the Massdrop version of the O2)

3.5mm switches will be tough to find, as the ONLY place that's really used is in headphones or old computers. Use something like this


Something like this is also an option also using 3 3.5mm to RCA adapters, you just won't use the video portion.

Depending on your budget it could go from $60 for a pair of decent speakers, upwards to $1000 for a single speaker.

I would start here This is a good guide to speakers.

The speakers that I personally use are the Dayton Audio B652

As for a mini amp, then I use an Audioengine N22 for my stuff, which I connect from the laptop using a simple 3.5mm to Stereo RCA cable

If you're going directly to a subwoofer (which is probably a better option since you're also watching movies and you don't need the extra amp) then you'd still need that same y cable, but you'd be wiring it differently. The best sub that matches price with capability is probably made by Hsuresearch, Dayton Audio, and SVS.

There are many more brands out there, and it goes well into a deep hole.

Getting stereo audio and getting HDMI output are two different issues. If you don't care about video quality, then just use your existing AV cable to get composite from the back and something like this to get audio from the front.

If you want high-quality video, there's a wide range of expensive and inconvenient options available to you as laid out in another comment. I recommend an OSSC with SCART cables if you intend to get RGB video from other retro consoles in the future. If you just want Genesis and don't care for any other complications, wait for the Rad2X to come out.

I already said this on another post, BUT if you ask me, for the money and build quality you can't beat Schiit Audio.

Pick up a MAGNI "HEADPHONE AMP AND PREAMP" for $99, a MODI "DAC" for $99 - $249 for the multibit version. So between $198-and $348 you can have an outstanding smi-portable DAC and Headphone/Preamp.

You will need a set of RCA cables to connect the DAC to the Headphone amp. As for connecting your smartphone you will need this USB 2.0 OTG Cable On The Go Adapter and then you will then need to connect that to a USB A-B Cable. Plug the "B" end of the USB A-B cable into the Dac. Additionally you could have skipped the DAC altogether and ran a RCA-to-3.5 cable right into the back of the headphone amp. But if you are aiming to take advantage of the HiFi/master audio I would recommend you use the DAC method. Connecting your laptop is just as easy and you can just run the USB A-B cable into the DAC. Or, if your computer has an optical audio output you could use a Toslink cable to connect direct into the DAC.

your all set man. get after it.

From your computer to your receiver, you can use a 3.5 mm to RCA cable (almost all PCs and receivers), a digital TOSLINK cable (most PCs and most receivers), or some kind of USB DAC and RCA patch cables. Some receivers can connect directly to your PC using USB or wifi or wired network.

From your receiver to your unpowered speakers (no wall power connection), you would use whatever bare wire cables are currently attached to your speakers or 16 gauge or thicker electrical cable. If you are using powered speakers (with wall power connection), those usually take RCA patch cables, although some have bare wire connectors as well.

Use something like this to hook the computer to the sub. Then use this in the subwoofers left and right rca to split the signal and use another rca cable up the pb42x and use your computer volume as you have been to control it. You would just set the sub up one time and leave it you wont have to mess with the gain as long as you dont mess with the pb42x gain.

If you watch this video at 3:35 it goes over what im talking about sorta
https://youtu.be/kF6s24fpDkk?t=216

This will definitely be the cheaper option but there are still some newer stereo receivers with phono inputs. I have an Onkyo TX 8020 and it has a phono input. Looks like all/most of the Onkyo stereo receivers include a phono input.

But yeah OP, check your local Craiglist/Kijiji/whatever, people sell their older receivers for cheap all the time. That will definitely be the cheaper option if you are okay with going used. Receivers tend to age pretty well, just check to make sure it works.

EDIT: pretty much all receivers will have a headphone out on the front. It's often a 6.3 mm, but you can pick up a 3.5 to 6.3 adapter for pretty cheap.

As for aux in, a lot of stereo receivers will only have RCA inputs, but you can also pick up a 3.5 aux to RCA cable for cheap too. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8JW0

Do you have something like this that you can get and test the sub by itself from your phone audio or something? Rule everything out and isolate just the subwoofer because you might actually have a defective product.

> I understand the easiest way to do this is by using a 3.5mm to RCA adapter but I don't have one.

Then get one they're inexpensive.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8JW0

Yes, just a mini amp - pick up this - (its a clone of the original Tripath Lepai that's not made anymore, and has a great power supply)

• https://www.amazon.com/Kinter-K2020A-ORIGINAL-TA2020-020-Amplifier/dp/B077Z7DBRT
  
  and use the 3.5mm headphone output from your TV to either the RCA inputs or the 3.5mm input.
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8JW0/
  
  or
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B004LTEUDO/
  
  BOOM, you're done. It will drive those Polks just fine! I bought one just for fun and had it hooked up to both sets of my Polk floorstanding monitor 70's and monitor 60s and it had no problem!
  
  

By far the easiest thing to do will be to retain the player and feed it sound from your computer using either the optical connection or a simple adapter to the AUX in. If your computer has an optical port, that'll be a bit better and might actually support 5.1 depending on the content you're playing. The analog input will only be 2-channel or 2.1, depending on how the amp works. Still, that'll cover most content on a PC.

That's about all you can do without spending way more money than it's worth.

The Dayton SUB-1000 here would be much better than the Polk’s you selected.

https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-SUB-1000-10-Inch-Subwoofer/dp/B0063NU3AA

Either amp you selected can be connected to your PC. You just need an RCA to 3.mm cable like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B01D5H8JW0

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016PATXSI/ with https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8JW0/ and https://bitgapp.com/eqmac/

You are looking for something along these lines:

https://amazon.com/Converter-192kHz-Techole-Aluminum-Converter-Headphone/dp/B07MPF4F68/ref=sr_1_4?crid=27BU29OQEP1Y&keywords=toslink+to+rca+converter&qid=1563574281&s=electronics&sprefix=tosl%2Celectronics%2C160&sr=1-4

​

https://amazon.com/ROOFULL-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Optical/dp/B07142SV1D/ref=sr_1_3?crid=27BU29OQEP1Y&keywords=toslink+to+rca+converter&qid=1563574281&s=electronics&sprefix=tosl%2Celectronics%2C160&sr=1-3

​

Or, if you are insane & wealthy:

https://www.berkeleyaudiodesign.com/alpha-dac-reference-series-3

​

p.s. I believe you will need something like this if you don't have it already:

​

https://amazon.com/JSAUX-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Compatible-Smartphones/dp/B07D8M5DML/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=RCA+male+too+3.5&qid=1563574516&s=electronics&sr=1-2-spons&psc=1

​

https://amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8JW0/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=RCA+male+too+3.5&qid=1563574516&s=electronics&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1

I'll condense all my information to this reply. A box like this is what you are looking for. It will take your SPDIF input and convert it to the 3 cable setup you currently have. Those 3 ports on the left will be the green black and orange cables you are using.

Now if you can't find that exact model in germany (with the 3 connectors on the left side that you need) then you can use any converter that takes your SPDIF input and outputs it to those red and white connectors. You can use those connectors with cables like these. That will give you the connectors you need to hook them up to your green black orange cables. The FL, CEN, SUB etc markings underneath each plug represent what channel they are. You use those extra cables you bought and hook them up accordingly into your logitech set.

EDIT: Something like this will work as well. That just eliminates the red/white plugs you dont need. But it has the 3 green/black/orange cables you need. They are marked underneath, just not color coded like your surround sound is. It will work fine.

Yes. Take the Denon RCA format jack outputs with this cable going to the mini stereo input on the Altecs. Here's the adapting cable type. You got your right and left and they go into the input of the Altecs.


https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8JW0/


It will sound good, btw

A 3.5mm aux/headphone jack to 2 x RCA cable is what you need.

Connect the 3.5mm to the computer and the RCA to the amplifier input marked "audio in".


https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B01D5H8JW0/

Thanks for your input. I will look into an external DAC. I assumed the phone's DAC would be fine, and was just planning on using something like this plugged directly into the phone: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H8JW0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_11?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

I am confused about your last paragraph. Do you mean a splitter from C -> C + A ? and one of them is the charger? Isn't that exactly what this hub does? (the PD port supplies power, coming from battery): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TVSLDND/ref=ox_sc_act_title_8?smid=A3BJFHXXMK8OTL&psc=1

You said you wanted to ask about the speakers in the title. The part you skipped over says those are "the absolutely cheapest systems we are willing to recommend." Which is why I linked a different subreddit for you.

Yeah, you need an amp if you keep the Pioneers. The amp I use is the SMSL SA-50. It's $62, not $40. It takes one of these wires from your computer:

https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8JW0

AmazonBasics 3.5mm to 2-Male RCA Adapter Cable - 4 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8JW0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7IecBbBD6NA63

You'll need 3. One for front left and right, rear left and right, and one for your center/sub

Oh okay so it's active monitors then, I just checked and they don't look like they have sub-out ports.

I think you need something like this sub, it has L+R input which you can connect a cable like this, then use the XLR out on the sub to connect to the XLR input on your monitor speakers, via this cable.

There is a post about your same speakers on how to connect it to a sub here, that's where I got the sub from.

Your monitor should have a 3.5mm AUX jack if not you can use the 3.5 mm jack on your motherboard IO You should be able to use an RCA to AUX cable to plug in the speakers such as this.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8JW0/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=rca%2Bto%2Baux&qid=1555013385&s=gateway&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1

With an aftermarket cable similar to this AmazonBasics 3.5mm to 2-Male RCA Adapter cable - 4 feet that works fine: https://www.amazon.in/dp/B01D5H8JW0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Qy1UCbBYG1GV3

(I got mine for Rs. 120)

Any way you do it will be "official", just with different gear. A mixer is the easiest. This one has good reviews and isn't too costly.

Another way I posted recently (referring to ps4):

This is possible.

You need an hdmi audio extractor if your ps4 doesn't have optical, an optical to rca dac if it does, though the audio extractor would still work too.

If you use the extractor, you'll need an rca to 3.5mm cable to go from the extractor to your PC's line in (blue) port. Using the dac I linked to, all you'd need is a standard 3.5mm cable.

Once that's done, go to sound settings, sound control panel (on the tight), recording tab, line-in, properties, listen tab, check "Listen to this device", and in the Playback through this device dropdown, select default audio device. In the levels tab, set the volume to 50% and see how it sounds. On mine I have to set it to 55%, otherwise whatever is connected to the line in is much louder than my PC audio. Test it and see what works best for you.

Your speakers should be connected to your PC via the green input.

I'm not sure I understand what you're trying to do. Perhaps you could tell us what problem you're trying to solve. You want to connect your phone and/or laptop to your STR-k680 so that you can play audio from those devices on your Sony? Or do you actually want your STR-k680 to do the audio decoding (that's the DAC part) from your phone/laptop? If the latter, you need some way to get a digital connection from phone/laptop to the Sony, and from looking at the manual, no such connection exists that you could easily leverage. As /u/PeetTreedish says, if your Sony had HDMI in, that would most likely work if your laptop has HDMI out. But your Sony doesn't have HDMI in, so no dice.

EDIT: Oh, and if the former, you just need to go from your phone and/or laptop's headphone jack into one of the analog audio inputs on your Sony. A cable like this will do the job. That will make audio come out of your speakers when you press "play" on your laptop/phone, but you won't be using it as a DAC.

To start you need an integrated amplifier. Here's the one recommended in the purchase help thread. This unit will provide power to the speakers so they can play back audio.

Next you need a cable that runs from your phone's headphone jack (assuming it has one) to the amp. Here you go.

Now you need to connect the amp to the speakers. Since you have a sub, you will run speaker cable from the amp to the sub, and then from the sub to each of the speakers. Here's 50 ft of speaker cable which should be more than enough to get the job done. You'll also need a wire stripper tool to remove the casing at each of the cabling, here you go. Would also recommend some banana plugs to make things easier but they aren't required.

This gets you live audio to your speakers. Had you done some research ahead of time you probably would have landed on buying active speakers instead, which would have saved you the need for all of this equipment except the $7 audio cable.

You can use this for the audio connection (audio out on DVD to the red and white audio in on the TV), and then a single 3.5mm-to-RCA like this one for the video (yellow to yellow).

That would give you the exact same effect, except they're not contained in the same plastic casing to make a single connector.

Looking at this image you can see two inputs. One for a 3.5mm stereo patch cable, another for RCA stereo pair. Both are essentially the same kind of connection in that they are an unbalanced stereo input with Left, Right, and Ground channels. Which is why you can buy 3.5mm to RCA adapter cables.

So I would buy a 3.5mm adapter cable like this one and plug it into your phone or computer. Or you could also get this one since the amp has two inputs and leave the first one plugged into your computer and plug the second into your phone when it is nearby. The amp has a switch on the front to select which input to use.

Please keep in mind, I'm not recommending these specific cables, just something like those would work for most phones and laptops and this specific amp.

Edit: also you would have another cable for power which would come with this amp. That plugs into the 16vac port shown in the first picture.

You can always use a 3.5mm to RCA cable. Most receivers have RCA inputs on the front for easy access.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B01D5H8JW0

You can also connect your laptop to the receiver via HDMI or audio out.

Now if you want the best quality music playback then that would be CDs in a Blu-ray player or CDs ripped to lossless FLAC/ALAC played off of your laptop or an external drive/flash drive connected to a Blu-ray player that plays these files.

Thanks for this. So what equipment would you suggest I need? I'm so sorry to be so obtuse about this, it's just not my world at all.

My goal is to just have something to power the speakers, and a chromecast audio or something for the actual source. Nothing needed beyond that - just want to use the speakers for music. They aren't set up for surround sound or anything more robust.....

I thought it would basically be chromecast audio -> this amazon cable -> this amp -> speaker wire.


I'm off base obviously, could you help me understand what I need to get to get instead? This is all living in an electrical box, essentially, so i need something relatively small and basic.

> I bought some speakers but they appear to only come with the kind of cable that plugs into a laptop or phone. Should I buy this? https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8JW0/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1520434548&sr=8-5&keywords=speaker+rca+cable

Ya if it has 3.5mm headphone out you can get a 3.5mm to dual rca cable that would work.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8JW0

Analog to Digital Converter

3.5mm to Male RCA

This is basically your option outside of buying a new soundbar or TV. Also look into some of the budget speaker setups on this subreddit. It will absolutely kill any soundbar you purchase. Not going to totally shit on you for getting a soundbar like everyone else in the sub but MB42X and a cheap amp off of accessories for less is an awesome beginning to a budget build.

So you will run a 3.5mm jack to RCA cord into the Analog to Digital Converter then the optical out of the converter into the soundbar.
These converters can be a little hit or miss with my experience so look around to find the one with the best review. I find monoprices stuff is pretty good. If it doesn’t work maybe try a little more expensive and reliable one.


If you already have a 3.5 you can find an adapter online for 3.5mm female to male RCA
Which is this

Yes, you can do this, make sure that you're using the cable type ones like this below:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B01D5H8JW0

That makes it easier. You can try the simplest solution first, use an AUX cable from the line out on the second PC into the line in on the primary and enable "Listen to this device" under Windows audio settings.

If you want to use hardware, you can get small stereo mixers in varying prices. There are passive mixers that could lower the volume on the stereo channel and active mixers that can keep the volume but also boost it.

Those are the best results I could weed out on Amazon that has stereo channels but I have no clue about the quality of those mixers as I have never used either of them. You will also need 3 pairs of 3.5mm to RCA cables, two for the computers and one for the headphone.

3.5mm to RCA cables. https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B01D5H8JW0

3.5mm headphone end plugs into the chromecast audio, the red/white RCA plugs into the amp.

Those are passive speakers. On the wall are terminals for the speakers. Each pair is for one speaker. To use these with your TV you will need some kind of amplifier/receiver. You can also use a stereo amplifier if you use only the left and right speakers. If your TV has a headphone jack, you can get good results with a very simple, inexpensive amplifier like this and a cable like this. Using the headphone jack will let the TV remote control the volume.

You can test the speakers by just tapping a regular old 9-volt battery to the terminals. When you tap it the speaker will make a loud pop. Don't CONNECT the battery, just tap it momentarily on the terminals.

Have fun!

https://www.amazon.com/Extractor-Support-TOSLINK-Converter-VHD-H2HARC/dp/B00LKF6CPG

You need a box like that to get an analog audio signal from your PS4. Then you need a cable to go from RCA to 3.5mm jack.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8JW0

Plug that into the line-in audio port on your motherboard or sound card. In Windows audio settings there should be an option called "listen to this device", enable that and it will work.

not quite. something like this piggyback RCA connector would work, or this RCA splitter

you could use a 3.5mm splitter with two of the 3.5mm to RCA cables

Info | Details
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Amazon Product | AmazonBasics 3.5mm to 2-Male RCA Adapter Cable - 4 Feet
>Amazon donates 0.5% of the price of your eligible AmazonSmile purchases to the charitable organization of your choice. By using the link above you get to support a chairty and help keep this bot running through affiliate programs all at zero cost to you.

A KVM is possible, but the big advantage of a KVM is that it not only allows you to share a screen across two sources, but also an attached keyboard and mouse. Unless you intend to use a keyboard and a mouse with your Switch, I'd go for a far less expensive, 2-port HDMI switch. That's all you need if you're only concerned about video. Plus, I'd argue it has more future utility. It'll be smaller, because it has less ports and the ports it has are smaller. You could bring it with you when you travel and hook multiple things up to HDTV's at hotels or friends' places. Plus, most newer displays have HDMI ports. Buying a DVI KVM (or even a DVI-only video switcher) is going to be more expensive and clunkier.

Here's an example of stuff that would work. I am not endorsing these products at all, I'm just picking the first well-reviewed looking hit from my search results (on Amazon):

search terms: "2-port HDMI switch"

looks good: DotStone HDMI Switch Bi-Direction only $8.. You won't get anywhere near that with a KVM.

and then, with search terms "HDMI to dvi", you could probably use 1 or 2 of either these:

HDMI to DVI (cable)

or these HDMI to DVI (adapter)

If you have a ton of extra hdmi and/or dvi cables, you might prefer the adapter, otherwise you could use it on its own in cable-form. Keep in mind that in a typical setup, the Switch's audio is going through the HDMI cable as well, and whether you used a HDMI switch or a DVI KVM/switch, the connection to your monitor is going to have to terminate in DVI, and that DVI won't carry the audio. Does your monitor even have speakers? Even if it did, you most likely won't get any audio over DVI. I haven't tested this myself, but I just did a little research and found you can use the headphone jack on the Switch, while docked, to get it's audio, so depending on what's going to be playing your sound, you might need one or more things from this list:

stereo miniplug cable (male to male) - for going from Switch to portable speakers or anything with a line-in

miniplug couplers - handy if you need to plug the above into another male cable

miniplug to RCA adapter cable - for going from the Switch to a stereo system or similar

​

​

If the 3.5mm is an output from your TV and the Red/White A/V is an input (which it should be) to your Bose. You should be able to just use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8JW0

Its just a 3.5mm to Audio RCA jack. You can usually find them at Walmart, BestBuy, or any other places that sell Electronics. You also may have to go into your TV settings and change the Sound setting output.

Ok, I think I got this.

-

1. So, I plug PC to Modi, how it is now.
   
2. Modi to Mixer via RCA male to male in input 1.
   
3. Monitor line out to Mixer via RCA to 3.5mm in input 2.
   
4. Magni to Mixer via RCA male to male in output.
   
5. Headphones into Magni, how it is now.
   
   So, it should look like this? My question is, will this play Switch and PS4 audio? They already play through monitor speakers, so is it as easy as putting 3.5mm to RCA in monitor to Mixer or do they each individually need to go to the Mixer?
   
   Also, would a ground loop like this work if plugged into the monitor and then have the 3.5mm to RCA plugged into this to eliminate buzzing noise?

The red and white ports that say ‘audio’ you need a cable from there, to your speaker (im guessing AUX). Try this.

Edit : corrections

On a budget, get the SMSL SD793-II. https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-SD793-II-PCM1793-DIR9001-Amplifier/dp/B00A2QLPJM

Its a DAC+AMP combo with a warm signature. The PC will input via coaxial / optical depending on your sound card (recommend optical) to the back of the 793 and the headset will go into the headphone jack in the front. The back if you notice has a RCA R L output, that will go to your speaker. If your speaker only accepts 3.5mm then you need a RCA to 3.5mm cable. https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8JW0/

This 793 for some reason output from both the headphone jack and rca jacks simultaneously (no delay), which normally shouldn't happen since plugging the headphone jack will disable the other output. But well, be glad! It works! In fact, I have the same setup that you are looking for haha. I actually connect the RCA to my TV soundbar so I don't have to get a separate desktop speaker!

I'm less familiar with this area but I believe either of these would suit your needs:

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dta-120bt2-class-d-mini-amplifier-60-wpc-with-bluetooth--300-3803?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvJaXrZ3J4wIVj4vICh19MA91EAQYASABEgLD4fD_BwE

​

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dta-21bt2-100w-21-class-d-bluetooth-amplifier-with-sub-frequency-adjustment--300-3831?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvJaXrZ3J4wIVj4vICh19MA91EAQYBCABEgLCQvD_BwE

​

I also found a comparison video on reddit for these two:

https://www.reddit.com/r/BudgetAudiophile/comments/9ba6x8/dayton_audio_amplifier_shootout_dta21bt_vs/

​

Also, I didn't realize you were playing audio from your computer. You'll need something like this to run from the line out of your laptop to the Lepai or Dayton (or edifier):

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8JW0/ref=asc_df_B01D5H8KO2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167146065113&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4591896362316768558&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011555&hvtargid=pla-303037967706&th=1

​

Unless you have some digital output from your computer that the Edifier accepts, a USB audio interface is preferred for connecting a computer to external speakers. This is mainly because the onboard DAC of a computer (or television) is (usually) not high quality. You will have this issue with the Edifier as well. I wouldn't worry too much about this at this point.

​

If you were to stick with the Lepai, you'd just plug your headphones directly into the computer aux port and not use the lepai at all (as it does not have an aux port).

​

Pros compared to Edifier: >$100 cheaper, better sound (probably debatable, I've not heard the edifiers), passive speakers can be used with an AV receiver if you decide to upgrade in the future to an AV receiver for surround sound

​

Cons: No remote, extra interfaces required for different inputs

​

If you are wanting to input from a variety of sources (ie. TV and computer) you may be better off with the Edifier since you do not want to get an AV receive

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8JW0/ref=mp_s_a_1_22_sspa?keywords=3.5mm+aux+cord+to+jack&qid=1563987210&s=gateway&sr=8-22-spons&psc=1

This is the RCA to jack which I talked about

Your second link is this. See the two connectors?

>https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8JW0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=amazon+basics+rca+to+3.5mm&qid=1563797449&s=gateway&sprefix=amazon+basics+rca+&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

​

If you were outputting SPDIF from your M9, all you should hear is static out of the Magni, so I don't believe that you know how to output SPDIF from it.

I'm also not sure how you attached the second Amazon link to your Modi in the first place. There isn't enough holes for it to work.

Is there any negatives of using the headphone jack? Would I use this and plug into Tape In on my mixer?

AmazonBasics 3.5mm to 2-Male RCA Adapter Audio Stereo Cable - 4 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8JW0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ugVqDbQV2NNRE

So in order to connect my phone and xbox to the mixer i would need two of these
AmazonBasics 3.5mm to 2-Male RCA Adapter Cable - 4 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8JW0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3Xu-zbG89HVA6.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8JW0

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B01D5H8JW0

Not audiophile quality obviously, but not bad either.

Oh you want a 3.5mm to RCA. Don't think I've heard it called 2.5mm before

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B01D5H8JW0

I think what you want is an Audio Mixer. Bands often use these to combine different inputs like guitar, vocals, drums.

https://www.amazon.com/Rolls-MX42-Stereo-Mini-Mixer/dp/B00102ZN40/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=4+channel+mixer+aux&qid=1566921594&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Also you'll probably need an Aux adapter: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B01D5H8JW0/ref=pd_bxgy_267_img_2/139-1922523-4776755?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01D5H8JW0&pd_rd_r=0d63093b-ae28-4097-8538-c806e47a6a3b&pd_rd_w=lLWKQ&pd_rd_wg=Qcjd5&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=XQQVWADREBHP2F3WKX9D&psc=1&refRID=XQQVWADREBHP2F3WKX9D

I'm no audio engineer so I can't speak to this mixers quality but don't be surprised if you sometimes hear a bit of static.

Ok.

You are going lose wireless. On the back of your TV should be RCA audio out. So, you will need this

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8JW0

I suggest the 15feet ones.

You plug the RCA into the TV and plug the 3.5mm into your headset.

​

And you can control the volume with your remote. I have the same model of TV, and did this with a Amp. So, it will work.

​

Now, there is a chance, that there can be some noise ( A hum). From not being grounded properly.

If that the case, then you can google how to ground your TV or buy a DAC/Amp.

​

If you need help with a DAC/Amp, i can help with that.

Connect like how?

Also there is no Echo Gen 3 yet, there is an Echo Dot gen 3, though.

As far as I know none of the Echo devices have an audio input.

There do exist devices that can transmit over Bluetooth from an audio source, such as this whihc comes with an RCA-3.5mm adapter, although you could get probably any other BT transmitter and a separate RCA-3.5mm adapter.