Reddit reviews AmazonBasics USB 2.0 Extension Cable - A-Male to A-Female Adapter Cord - 9.8 Feet (3 Meters), Black
We found 47 Reddit comments about AmazonBasics USB 2.0 Extension Cable - A-Male to A-Female Adapter Cord - 9.8 Feet (3 Meters), Black. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
One 9.8-foot-long (3 meters) USB 2.0 A-Male to A-Female high-speed extension cableExtends your USB connection to your computer by 9.8 feet; for use with printers, cameras, mice, keyboards and other USB computer peripheralsConstructed with corrosion-resistant, gold-plated connectors for optimal signal clarity and shielding to minimize interferenceFeatures shielding that provides protection against noise from electromagnetic and radio-frequency signals, keeping your signal clear with less loss of bandwidth for higher performanceTypically, the Male A connector plugs into your computer and the Female A connects to the cable you need extended. Check your device manuals to make sure this is the connector you need
Why not this?
It's a custom Bluetooth implementation, the actual hardware is basically a Bluetooth receiver. Even Bluetooth receivers can suffer from a poor cable, never underestimate the crappiness of cheap hardware. One of these should work fine:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11PEY/
Spare yourself lots of agony and get this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH11PEY
and this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CM381SQ.
Then run it near the trainer & power meter if you have one.
Although BLE is superior to ANT+ in a general sense, all the applications have more mature ANT+ support.
These have worked very well for me ...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH11PEY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Like /u/PhoenixAV said, just get a webcam (I have the same one, it's rock solid), you might need a USB extender (https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cable-Male-Female/dp/B00NH11PEY/ this works fine, would not go much farther)
For sound, I'd highly recommend getting a simple Jabra Speak 410 https://www.amazon.com/Jabra-Speak-Speakerphone-Retail-Packaging/dp/B007SHJIO2/ It's got decent sound for voice, some mute, volume controls. Between that and the webcam, you can support 4 or 5 people on a call and look professional at the same time.
Good luck!
Cable management for sure. Maybe a better desk down the line, but cable management is probably the cheapest and most effective way you could improve your battlestation right now.
Especially the mouse; why is that plugged into your case front I/O and not the rear? If the cord's too short, you can get USB extension cords for about $5 in a variety of lengths such as 1 meter or 3 meter.
Thanks! Would this work as well? Got that prime shipping time and want to use it:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cable-Male-Female/dp/B00NH11PEY/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1543429797&sr=1-5&keywords=usb+extender
I use an USB extension cable and set mine out on my TV. Put black electrical tape and it works like a charm
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cable-Male-Female/dp/B00NH11PEY
I just built one of these for Christmas. It was simple enough to operate that I was able to gift it to my non-tech savvy sister who was able to take it home and get it running on her own.
I followed this guide to get it set up, which also lists all the emulators you can run on it: http://lifehacker.com/how-to-turn-your-raspberry-pi-into-a-retro-game-console-498561192
It cost a lot more than the $35 mentioned in the guide though. I also purchased the official case, 2 USB SNES controllers, 2 10-foot USB extension cables so they can reach the couch, and a USB power cord with a switch. The Raspberry Pi doesn't actually come with a power button, so once you shut it down, there's no way to turn it back on without unplugging it and plugging it back in, which was pretty lame. This switch made it more convenient. I ordered an USB AC adapter to go with it that was rated as recommended by the Raspberry Pi site, but it ended up not being powerful enough to run some SNES games. I ended up using the adapter that came with my Motorola Droid Turbo instead, which fixed the issues.
it may just be easier to use an adapter than replacing the whole pcb as it looks rather complicated maybe get one of these https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-TOOGOO-adapter-converter-Controller-Compatible/dp/B00UMXGMYS/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=E3R1FSF6T00E3B6KJHYB
and one of these
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11PEY/ref=twister_B00SIT9PRO?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I have some recommendations and suggestions. I know there's a lot of info, but you should know this if you want to get more value for your money. I ran out of space before I could cover everything, so just ask me if you have questions.
Headphones
---
The first thing you should determine is whether you need sound isolation or not.
 
Next, you should figure out which sound signature you prefer.
Sub-bass is how deep the bass goes and is where rumble comes from.
Mid-bass is where impact/slam comes from.
Generally, for competitive shooters, as little bass as possible is favorable because bass overpowers or overshadows footsteps and other sound cues.
 
Lastly, you should know what sound characteristics constitute positional audio and pertain to immersion.
 
Personal headphone recommendations:
has recessed sub-bass and emphasized treble. Has clean bass and a little harsh treble. Has a huge soundstage, excellent imaging, separation and clarity, and great detail retrieval.
has recessed sub-bass, emphasized mid-bass, and very emphasized treble. Has clean bass and a little splashy or overly sparkly treble. Has a huge soundstage and excellent imaging, separation, clarity and detail retrieval.
has emphasized sub-bass, mid-bass and treble. Has clean bass and smooth treble. The soundstage is very wide, like the others I've mentioned, but it lacks some depth. It's probably only noticeable if you play competitively or compare it side-by-side with headphones that are deeper. This affects the imaging from front to back. The imaging from left to right is excellent. Separation and clarity are excellent. Detail retrieval is great, but bass overpowers sound cues a lot.
is mid-forward and has recessed sub-bass. Has clean bass, smooth treble, and excellent clarity. I haven't used it much, so my impressions are that it has a large soundstage and good imaging, separation and detail retrieval.
I also compare to AKG K52, AKG Q701, Audeze LCD-2 Classic, HiFiMan HE400i (the revision), HiFiMan HE-500, HyperX Cloud, Monoprice Monolith M1060, Philips SHP9500, Sennheiser HD700, Sennheiser HD800, Superlux HD662 EVO, Superlux HD668B, Superlux HD669, Superlux HD681 EVO, Tritton Pro+ and Turtle Beach Ear Force XP Seven.
My evaluations are based on games, not music. I test headphones mostly in BF:BC2, BF3, BF4 and R6S.
 
Alternatives:
Open-back
Closed-back
 
Microphones
---
Attachable to headphones
Alternatives
 
Setup
---
Antlion ModMic and Massdrop Minimic are compatible with all headphones.
V-MODA BoomPro is compatible with Philips Fidelio X2 and V-MODA Crossfade M-100 of the aforementioned headphones.
 
You can connect the headphone and mic to the PS4 by using an audio USB adapter. The one I linked has separate jacks for the headphone and mic, so in order to use it with V-MODA BoomPro, you need a Y-splitter, which is included with the mic. The other 3.5mm mics have an own cable, so there's no need for a Y-splitter.
USB mics, like AT2020USB, Snowball and Yeti, connect directly to the PS4.
If the cables aren't long enough, then just use an aux extension cable or a USB extension cable.
 
The PS4 isn't capable of powering all headphones sufficiently, so you may need a sound card or a headphone amplifier and a DAC (digital-to-analog converter). A Sound card has an amp and a DAC built in and sacrifice sound quality for features. You need a DAC because USB and optical are digital signals and PS4 has no analog outputs. There's a common problem with reversed left and right channels when using USB DACs, so I'll only list DACs with optical. I'll only list USB sound cards that officially support PS4.
Power isn't just impedance dependent, it's also sensitivity dependent, which many new to this hobby overlook. If a headphone has a low impedance rating and a high sensitivity rating, it will be very easy to drive. If a headphone has a high impedance rating and a high sensitivity rating, it should be easy to drive. If a headphone has a high impedance rating and a low sensitivity rating, it will be hard to drive. If a headphone has a low impedance rating and a low sensitivity rating, it will be very hard to drive.
There's no consensus on where 'high' impedance starts at. I've read/heard anywhere from 50 ohms to 300 ohms. For sensitivity, there are two different measurements used for this: SPL/mW and SPL/V. 100 dB SPL/mW and 110 SPL/V are considered high.
If you don't want to ever deal with this, then I recommend just getting a very powerful sound card or amp, e.g. Creative Sound BlasterX G5 or Schiit Magni 3.
Audio-Technica ATH-AD700X, Philips Fidelio X2 and Sennheiser HD598 are very loud for me out of the controller or by using an audio USB adapter. The 600-ohm version of Beyerdynamic DT990 is too quiet.
Mics generally don't work with amps, so you'll have to connect it to an audio USB adapter, or to the controller with a TRRS Y-splitter. You recognize them by the three black rings on their connector. You need to use the included Y-splitter with V-MODA BoomPro.
With a sound card, you can use both the headphone and mic with it. You need a TRRS Y-splitter if the mic has a separate cable.
To connect a separate amp to a DAC, you need RCA cables.
Sound cards:
Amps and DACs:
I mean this more for folks who already have a webcam setup they were using when the video features were working on these sites. I know that the league itself is not predicated on webcam usage, so my focus is on folks who have lost that functionality. That said, you can probably get a cheap usb extension cable on Amazon.
Ah thats unfortunate. I hate to say this but you could buy an extension for the cable, or use an extension cord from the outlet
AmazonBasics USB 2.0 Extension Cable - A-Male to A-Female Adapter Cord - 9.8 Feet (3 Meters) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11PEY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_e0d7Cb5ZA5XPA
Fortunately they are cheap
The USB cable used for the Roku Streaming Stick+ is actually a special one with a built in Wi-Fi antenna, so you actually need a USB-A extender to connect the end of the special cable to the TV. https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cable-Male-Female/dp/B00NH11PEY/
Or if you don't have the Streaming Stick+, meaning that the cable does not have a noticable black block in the middle of the cable (where the antenna stuff is), this should be able to replace the cable. https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Male-Micro-Cable-Black/dp/B07232M876/
Lots of people are suggesting your charger. Might I recommend a USB extension cord to give you extra length when your phone or other devices are on the charger?
I hope I get shot down for this but I absolutely hate the combined sensors. It's mostly a matter of principle in using magnets vs accelerometers to me but I've had rougher rides outside and every now and then I found myself having to readjust the sensor to get closer to the revolving magnet on the spoke.
I like the idea of Bluetooth/Ant+ but probably won't make that switch until Garmin does this or Wahoo ups the reliability to their accelerometer based offerings. I ended up with the Garmin speed and cadence sensors mainly because how rugged they looked and they have yet to let down. Downside to Ant+, that I have yet to experience yet, is having to use a dongle for your computer.
With regards to the cadence sensor (Garmin), the 3 slit design makes for a ridiculously good hold. The combined sensor relies on you removing your pedals which is a pain in the ace if you ever realize you made a mistake purchasing one.
The speed sensor is beautiful in that it wraps around the hub and I've been on a set and forget mindset ever since purchasing it.
If you're up for a potential hassle then I'd go for the Wahoo speed and cadence sensors. That seems like a high risk high reward in being able to gain Bluetooth functionality and drop a dongle. I on the other hand don't want to mess with what works and got the Garmin pair of sensors and that seems to work well for me. I'm too deep in the Garmin game at this point to turn back but I'm really hoping Wahoo ups their game so Garmin will finally develop some Bluetooth/ant+ sensors to ween people off the inevitable Ant+ downfall (probably in 3 yrs).
DO IT(playing it safe):
Garmin Bike Speed Sensor and Cadence Sensor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JM6DKUA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_b8BfAbMW4D35X
+
Garmin USB ANT Stick for Garmin Fitness Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CM381SQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Q9BfAbBPSWVDZ
+(Recommend)
AmazonBasics USB 2.0 Extension Cable - A-Male to A-Female - 9.8 Feet (3 Meters) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11PEY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_y-BfAbB526SE8
Risky:
Wahoo RPM Speed and Cadence sensor for iPhone, Android and Bike Computers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E0YRQIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_68BfAb3RQD1J8
Going Garmin obviously requires more stuff but I'd say it's worth it. Make sure to measure the wheel circumference or try googling it so your training is accurate.
I'm sure this will be a lot cheaper than a new mouse.
Can I ask you another questions? Assuming I couldn't find any cheap enough wireless kb / mouse and decided to go with just standard wired things, Id need a USB extension cable between the Xim and the Hub. Do you have any idea if this cable would be good enough for that? (not talking about length, just the USB type / speed etc.)
https://www.amazon.co.jp/gp/product/B00NH11PEY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AN1VRQENFRJN5&psc=1
Everything's FINALLY arrived. Had my Wiitar for weeks now, but unfortunately I couldn't use it until the adapter arrived.
Ordering the adapter was a hassle and a half. Placing the order was super easy, but Amazon decided to cancel shipping after a few days and not inform me of it. I checked my Amazon account a couple of days before delivery was due and found that the package had been returned to sender without my authorisation.
For a domestic package I wouldn't have minded, as it would only add maybe one or two days to the whole process of getting a product from Amazon, but I'd been waiting over a week now for the adapter to come and I wasn't having it. I contacted Amazon customer support to find out what happened, but from their end, the package was still coming to me. I was escalated to another customer support rep, who told me that the only option was to refund the cost of the adapter and to buy a new one. Great. I asked them what had happened and she did some checking and then came back and told me that actually, I couldn't have a refund, and that I'd have to wait several more days to see if the package actually arrives. Fucking fantastic.
I pressed and managed to get the refund after talking to customer support for over an hour. I tried to get them to compensate me by upgrading the shipping for free (literally 3 quid) so I wouldn't have to wait over a week again as a result of Amazon's mistake. This was when the customer support rep started getting rude and cutting me off, and ultimately terminated the session. Never had that happen on UK Amazon... (And no, the original product never did arrive).
Anyway, I got my refund, and was very happy to find that the seller of the adapter on Amazon had discounted the product, so I ended up paying roughly the same price that I originally paid but with upgraded shipping this time. Still an utter waste of time and money, but hey, Amazon does that sometimes.
The adapter finally arrived today. Forgot to mention: also had to order a USB extension cable off their Amazon Basics line. Got the 3m one - seems decent enough quality.
Total cost?
Total cost: £36.46.
With Raphnet adapter, it would have cost (including imports etc): £48.10
Lesson learned: just buy a fucking Raphnet adapter. I saved 12 quid lol. Admittedly, I overpaid for shipping, and I'll probably get import fees refunded, which would bring the cost down to about £29 if you were to do this. And you probably wouldn't have the same hassle that I had with the Amazon adapter. All in all, though, the adapter works, and I've got a sweet, sweet Wiitar to play, so I'm not really that disappointed (assuming the adapter doesn't crap out on me...)
If you can afford to spend maybe an extra £20 for the Raphnet, just do it. It's really not worth the hassle trying to get a good deal. In the future, though, if I ever need a new guitar, I don't have to worry about buying another bloody adapter - I can just buy another Wiitar off eBay, and hopefully for cheap.
£37 is also almost exactly how much I spent on my new in-box Xplorer, so make of that what you will. I'm not sure if Xplorers have gotten any more expensive since I bought mine. I can't really give any impressions on how the Wiitar compares to my Xplorer, either, as I've only set up the guitar and made sure everything works at the moment. I've not done any proper playing. I can tell you that the Xplorer was very awkward to play due to the shape of the body, so I had to do this weird leg cross over thing to get it to sit nicely on my legs when sitting in my chair. It seems like that's the main complaint people have with the Xplorer, and I've seen Randy do almost the exact same leg cross over thing to get his Xplorer to sit properly on his lap. Also, I ended up with a gen 1 Xplorer which apparently had crappy frets. Mine did, so I messed with the fret pad (the slit mod where you slit the sides of each fret) and got them playing excellently, but unfortunately I overcut and they only lasted a few months before blue and orange started occasionally sticking under the slits I cut - hence why I'm buying a new guitar.
Oh, almost forgot: I haven't figured out how to get whammy to work yet, but this is also a problem with the Raphnet adapters. I probably just need a tutorial.
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Title | How to cool an aquarium 10 DEGREES! for under $20 DIY
Description | LED light on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GH9HRZ4/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00GH9HRZ4&linkCode=as2&tag=website044-20&linkId=CNDQLJYTXSSNVCVK USB FAN: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XN24GY/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B003XN24GY&linkCode=as2&tag=website044-20&linkId=QJY46Q5JC4FDZLCU USB EXTENDER: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH11PEY/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&cre...
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Don't know of any braided but the Amazon Basics one works well for me. I've had it for exactly a year and it works well. I fold it in half then coil it around my hand to put in a drawer.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH11PEY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NH11PEY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468109485&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=amazon+basics+usb+extension&dpPl=1&dpID=41AOpRT%2B4wL&ref=plSrch
Get a USB extension cable.
male to female 10ft usb cable from amazon, little over $5 each. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11PEY/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_api_wQDoybRY2WR45
When in doubt, get an extension cable.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cable-Male-Female/dp/B00NH11PEY/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1506532247&sr=1-3&keywords=usb+extension+cable
Why don't you just get an extension USB male to female cable?
even an old "non USB 2.0" cable like this one works perfectly. I don't have this exact cable but I use a USB extension cable that I bought back in 2003 or 2004 for my shine 5 and it works perfectly.
http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-USB-Extension-Cable-10-Feet/dp/B00001ZWXA
The one I have looks pretty identical to this.
If you want something more "modern" I'm sure this will work too.http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cable--Male--Female/dp/B00NH11PEY/
Up to 10 feet.
I should mention also, because it is coming from Europe you will need to buy a 2 prong power cord. It will come with a European plug.
I bought this one, plenty long for my use.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HYNR022/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VEyryb190HG2G
And a ANT+ Dongle for your computer, I bought this one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNQG7RQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kGyrybFJGTPPD
And last, a long USB cord because the ANT+ range is quite short, this runs along the floor under my bike and trainer.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11PEY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IHyrybJTW1ZX9
Oh thank you! I never heard of this guide. This is my bluetooth dongle, is it weak? And yes it's plugged at the front, USB 3.0 and the HMD is plugged at the back. I'm gonna try with both plugged at the back with a 2.0
EDIT: I've read that it's better if the dongle is far from the HMD, unfortunately I only have 3.0 on the front of my PC...
EDIT 2: I have an usb 2.0 extension, something like this, if I plug it on the back of the motherboard, does it count as "physically separated from the HMD USB connector" as the guide recommends even though the HDM is connected at the back too (but USB 3.0) ?
Wait, why won't the included extension cable work?
Things that could/should work:
TRRS extension cable: http://www.amazon.com/FosPower-Auxiliary-4-Conductor-Extension-Connectors/dp/B01552UGKG/
USB extension cable so you could extend out the DAC: http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cable--Male--Female/dp/B00NH11PEY/
This is the cable I use. I’m able to leave my computer on my desk and have the Ant+ key right next to the bike.
AmazonBasics USB 2.0 Extension... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11PEY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I generally reach for the PS3 controller if I don’t already have strong feelings about a replica controller, it works well on a lot of games. I also find it to be the most comfortable and intuitive controller, so it’s usually nice to use.
As someone who collects retro replica controllers to get that “original game” experience, I highly recommend a long male to female usb extension cord. I’ve got a basket of controllers next to the couch, and with the extension cord I can change controllers without getting up. Just mentioning it because it makes switching so much easier.
I ordered and tested this one: https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cable-Male-Female/dp/B00NH11PEY
Just a simple 9.8 ft extension cable from Amazon and it seems to work fine with the Logitech C922 so far. No added delay, image issues, or any issues at all as of yet. It hasn't been a long period of testing of course, but right from the get-go it has worked just fine. I'll have to test it running the webcam for longer periods and see how it holds up and I can't say if it'll last long, but as of now it seems to work perfectly fine.
Here's what I'm going to do..Amazon 10ft USB 2.0 extension cable. Just bundle this extension cable in with the other three wires going up to the headset, I highly suggest using either Electrical tape to bundle all the wires tightly together or Velcro Cable Organizers every foot or less to keep the bundle of wires tight.. You can then plug your 3m Gamescom 780 cable there and have it all flow beind your back, instead of flopping around at your side or in front of you.
The extension cable just plugs into one of your USB ports on the computer (not the breakout box) and allows the headset to be used without having to use the passthrough.
USB extension cable might do the trick.
I use a USB extension cable with my Inateck and it...mostly works. I've used it since August, but I have had my system randomly shut off on me about 4 or 5 times since then. Usually it happens right after I exit the game. This is the extension I use.
I know of one person who had more power issues with this same extension, though. He ended up buying this cable and last I heard, he hasn't had any issues. Unfortunately, it's only 3 feet long (just under 1 meter).
I just got my Satisfye Elite Bundle which comes with a low profile usb cord that has 56k ohm resistor, the only problem is that it is like a foot long, is it safe to use this AmazonBasics extension cable with it? https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cable-Male-Female/dp/B00NH11PEY
You should get one of these.
For anyone else interested in adding this to their Formula rim:
(*note the screen is simply velcroed to the face of the rim so that it can be easily removed and replaced. You still have full access to the setup button and screen.)
Screen: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LAG12DG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Case: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07916HTWY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Velcro: https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Industrial-Fasteners-Professional/dp/B0010HADEA/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=3SDOM935U6TXI&keywords=velcro+strips+with+adhesive+heavy+duty&qid=1567718060&s=automotive&sprefix=velcro%2Cautomotive%2C194&sr=1-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFINFJRWkE0UjdQUTEmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAwMjYwMzkxRlAyNVBEUDJTWU5YJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA1MjA5NjIxRTZBMko5OEdLUVIwJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
USB to TTL: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014Y1IMNM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Coiled USB: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VUK7IIQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
USB Extension: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH11PEY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Carbon Fiber Wrap: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0154C6Q74/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
SimHub: https://www.simhubdash.com/
TCL 65R613
Would this cable work?
I just use something like this for boutiques that are further away. I've never had a problem.
edit: sorry the cable I use is a 10' cable.
May I suggest just and extended usb cable? I console streamed for awhile from my couch. Theyre only like $8 on Amazon
This. Or any extension cable, really (I have an HDMI extension that I store the same way).
AmazonBasics USB 2.0 A-Male to A-Female Extension Cable 3 m / 9.8 Feet https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00NH11PEY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_u-TBxbRAC3RNH
You can try with the same one that you got with the camera to test and then you would need an USB extension cable like this. Although if the distance is too far then it might not work. So YMMV.
I don't remember a USB cable coming with it, and I don't see it listed under "in the box" on Logitech's website. Could you point me in the direction of what type of USB cable you're talking about? Is it something like one of these?
My tower is located right underneath my mouse, so it wouldn't be a huge difference in distance, but I'm willing to try anything. Thanks for your help!
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cable--Male--Female/dp/B00NH11PEY/ref=sr_1_3
Or you could have a female to male USB connected to the backpack's USB, then strip the FtM USB and solder those wires to a circuit.