Reddit reviews AmazonBasics Wireless Remote Control Shutter Release for Nikon Digital SLR Camera

Amazon Basics.

I have the Amazon Basics remote and it works great.

you'd need a phone with an IR blaster for the d3300. i'd just (and i have) bought a cheap wireless shutter release like this one: http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Wireless-Control-Digital-Cameras/dp/B003L1ZYZ6/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1449883441&sr=1-3&keywords=nikon+wireless+shutter

A good memory card always helps, e.g. this, that's big enough for approx. 1.1k shots at max quality on my d3300.

Also a remote shutter is useful if you have a tripod, or you just want to set the camera down and pose, the amazon basics model works great for me, here it is.

Those are two cheap essentials for me.

The amazon-brand remote shutter release seems to be just as good as the nikon-brand and is quite cheap. Same one I use

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Wireless-Control-Digital-Cameras/dp/B003L1ZYZ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449114246&sr=8-1&keywords=nikon+shutter



If that is too cheap and you want something to add to the christmas gift, a gorilla-tripod would probably pair well.

http://www.amazon.com/JOBY-Gorillapod-Tripod-Bundle-Cameras/dp/B002FGTWOC/ref=pd_sim_421_6?ie=UTF8&dpID=41CJlE1xloL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0RDV13SH8ZJ6QEVMMTS6

Edit: if for some reason she feels the need for a really accurate wireless shutter release, there are also radio triggers. However I would say for the vast majority of people this is unnecessary and the basic infrared remotes are a better choice.

I use the cheapo amazon basics wireless release with my D3200. If all you need to do is trigger the shutter, this will do exactly that with no wires needed. Works great on bulb mode, just hit the button to open the shutter and hit it again when you want to close it.

This is cool, but why? When there's this

First, let me ask: What is your budget and what do you plan to capture?

---

As for the camera triggering, for less than $10, if your cameras are compatible, I would suggest using an infrared remote to trigger the cameras. Here's an example for Nikon cameras: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Wireless-Control-Digital-Cameras/dp/B003L1ZYZ6
This way there's no risk in damaging the cameras by opening them and modifying them. If you used externally mounted mechanical solenoids to depress the triggers, there's an added risk of slightly shaking the cameras and introducing motion blur, so that's something else I would avoid. Different camera companies offer USB based triggering systems, but I don't know much about them. This might be a good way to keep your cameras charged and triggered with a single cable to each.


/u/iontrades and others have figured out how to pulse IR LEDs using Arduino microcontrollers, so that's another route if you plan on automating the capture process. There's nothing wrong with using the $10 Amazon remote, and I have one myself, but I see an Arduino setup in my future - hopefully an automated setup built by /u/iontrades

Another completely different option would be to use Raspberry Pi computers with each camera triggered on demand. While it would be a fun project, I'd avoid this method for my own projects because I'd rather invest in quality glass (optics) than multiple sets of uncalibrated $20 Raspberry Pi cameras. Again, how much precision are you need and how much are you willing to pay for?

---

For the camera mounts, I really like what they did with the flexible mounts on the original beastcam.
If you need to make an adjustment, you don't need any tools. If you don't want to spend that much money, you could consider drilling holes in a piece of plywood and attaching cameras with zipties. You could even attach casters for rolling your rig around the floor. There are thousands of different ways to do this.

You can just get this You'll just have to make sure you hit the IR sensor on the front of the camera for it to fire.

Don't get a cheap crappy remote, get this one for $10: http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Wireless-Control-Digital-Cameras/dp/B003L1ZYZ6

Does the Amazon Basics remote control for Nikon cameras allow you to do bulb mode? I want to take pictures of star trails and my camera only lets me go up to 30 seconds so I was hoping to get a remote to let me do bulb. Here is the link to it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003L1ZYZ6/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

I took a really close look at your two pictures. First things first, it's pretty obvious why it didn't work as intended.

• 1. The background image is brighter.
     
• 2. The background image is slightly off.
     
• 3. The focus of the background image is set on the wall, the focus of the main image is set on the chair/person.
     
     For the first point, was shutter speed set manually? If yes, did something change about the light sources? (What I noticed: Compare this to this, there are also more details visible on the chair to the left in one image). Steady light conditions are crucial to the sucess of this technique.
     
     For the second point, you wrote that you used a tripod. But that doesnt save you from the slight tilt you get when pressing down on the trigger. You might want to pick up one of these, they are also great for long exposure shots at night where the slightest movement of the camera gets you a blurry picture.
     
     For the third point, did you use manual focus? If yes, did you simply forget to keep a steady plane of focus (e.g. do the shot with the person first and then don't change the focus)?
     
     You should also keep in mind, that the way you had your subject sit on the chair creates dark areas which would be illuminated if it wasn't for the chair and seem slightly off once it's gone. For painting away the unwanted objects you also may want to not use a "fancy" brush as you did in your attempt, because that results in jagged borders when working close to the body.
     
     As a bonus, here is the picture as you wanted it (file size got a little large because it's a .png), I simply cut him out nicely and pasted him into the background shot. That's basically what you are doing too when you paint over everything but him. This works too, but has 2 drawbacks. His shadow isn't in the picture (but the shadow of the chair isn't either, so it's kind of an advantage actually). It also takes longer and isn't excactly as much of a photographic achievement as one of post-processing...
     
     If you take the above points into consideration and keep everthing else on manual too, I don't see why it shouldn't work.
     

I have a D3300, grabbed this off amazon a while ago and it works perfectly fine (I'd be surprised if it suddenly would lose compatibility on a later gen: https://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-Wireless-Remote-Control-Cameras/dp/B003L1ZYZ6/?th=1

Supposedly it keeps draining the battery when it's in, so just take it out whenever you're not using it, just a head's up

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Wireless-Control-Digital-Cameras/dp/B003L1ZYZ6

Just the basic IR remote should do the trick. I've done this with a D7000, though it's been a bit since the last time I did.

Basically, put the camera in manual mode and for remote control. The exposure should be a couple of dashes. Press once to open the shutter, and again to close it. The shutter closes automatically after half an hour in case you forget about it.

I'm pretty sure you can do the same with the D3200, though I may be mistaken. One with an intervalometer might be a safer bet.

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Wireless-Control-Digital-Cameras/dp/B003L1ZYZ6/ref=pd_cp_p_4 man just get this one

Night photography is my favorite genre, especially light painting and city scenes. I highly recommend investing in a remote shutter release, it makes taking those tedious shots much easier because you can guarantee that there's no camera shake. For the best quality shots, use the lowest ISO you can, and play around with the long exposure noise reduction settings on your camera. I usually leave mine off and do the noise reduction in post processing. This saves time while shooting as well, as it takes less time for the camera to save the image.

You have a smokin' car, you want to show off the lines, right? The nice thing about low-light photography is that you can really take the time to figure out your shot and compose it before you shoot. I think it would be cool to find some nice street lighting and play around with the composition to highlight the features of the car. Try to find something that won't screw up the white balance with the headlights on. Don't be afraid to get low, shoot from the level of the driver's head or lower.
Once you have it set up, you have the opportunity to take multiple shots, you can easily jump to HDR if you want.

Also, I found a pretty great article about just what you're maybe trying to do.