Reddit reviews APC UPS, 550VA UPS Battery Backup Surge Protector, BE550G Backup Battery Power Supply, Dataline Protection, Back-UPS Series Uninterruptible Power Supply

One thing i'm certain about is that 500W is enough. Your graphic card needs power when doing tremendous amount of calculation like in a game, but doesn't need that much in order to start.
Do you have any way to get your GPU replaced ? If you can and the problem still appears, you'll know it's not GPU related.

Edit : if you often have power outages in your area, I strongly recommend you to buy a battery backup (a UPS, for "Uninterruptible Power Supply"), like this one. It will keep your PSU and the rest of your components safe.

How the two people below can even conceivably think that there is a variation in stability and safety for electronic devices on a UPS is just unfounded knowledge.


YES OP. You can use a UPS such as this in your situation. Obviously the "safety" regarding your electronics varies on the actual UPS-model/make just like any other product.


A UPS is supposed to regulate your power, provide backup power in case of a power outage, and also act as a surge protector. READ what your UPS can do when you're buying it, they all have different level of protection and make sure to buy accordingly.


And to add a UPS is generally used as a back-up power supply so you have time to properly shut down your devices and unless you're buying an extremely high capacity UPS; you probably won't have much time to play for hours one end like a giant generator (Conceivably, again depends on the UPS) I.E. the ups would have to power both your console and tv to "run" and generally unless you have a LED tv, they eat up alot of watts = powers out quickly.

TLDR: Yes you can use a UPS with ANY ELECTRONIC DEVICE. But remember UPS is for temporary short-term backup power, don't expect it to power your stuff for hours on end.

I picked up one of these for my DS1815+. It was the cheapest name-brand UPS I could find that had USB control. Synology control panel says that it has 6448 seconds worth of power, which is about 100x longer than it takes the Synology to shut down.

I also keep my cable modem and router on the UPS. This allows the Synology to send me notifications during a power outage.

Aside from thanking everyone who replied, I want to take the time to update on whats going on.

After I posted, I was leaning into purchasing a Fluval Spec V to house Fishy. 170). I started looking for other options such as buying another tank, buying at a LFS or commissioning a tank.

A reputable tank maker quoted me US$45.00 to make a 15 Gallon tank, with the following dimension 16.25''x16.25''x13.25'' (LxWxH) made with .88 mm glass or aprox 1/3''.

In turn, I would have to buy a filter, a heater and light (as well as substrate and plants). Here is what Im leaning towards, advice would be very much appreciated, as its my first tank in about 10 years:

Heater: Eheim 25 watt.


Filter: Aquaclear HOB Power Filter 20.



Light: Finnex Stingray 16'.

An acquaintance suggested I buy this filter instead:

Aquaclear Power Head + Aquaclear Powerhead Attachment.

Even suggested I fit my tank with two of those instead of the HOB filter.

Being a noob, I dont really know much about those types of filters.

For plants Im thinking something like this:

Fluval Anubias 12'.

Fluval Lizard Tail.

Substrate: Im looking forward to adding real plants in the future.

Soil - ADA Africana.

Sand - something along that color.

I already own an APC UPS, similar to this one or even the same one (i dont really remember).

Again, any tips or suggestions are welcome.

If it goes out that frequently, then yes it could have some adverse effects. The main one being if it loses power during a write operation to the HDD or cloud such as saving a game. For instance if your game is trying to save and the power goes out right in the middle of it doing it, when you try to load back up your save might be corrupted and you may lose your progress in the game. You may be totally screwed and have to start over, or you may only lose some progress between when your last save was uploaded to the cloud.

Since I'm assuming there's not much you can do about the outages where you live or being able to move where the utility is more reliable, the best way to protect yourself from future headache is to get one of those UPS battery backup power supplies that they use for computers and stuff to prevent against blackouts such as this one: https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BE550G/dp/B0019804U8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484415526&sr=8-3&keywords=apc+battery+backup+%26+surge+protector

What you do is plug your entertainment center into one of those and when a blackout happens it will keep enough power to your console for a few hours to operate until the power from your utility comes back on. For example, you notice the power goes out such as your lights in your room go out, but your console and TV will still be on if plugged into one of those. You then are able to finish up whatever it is you were doing, save your game, then shut down your console properly without danger of something happening until the power comes back on. They also protect against surges. If you are a little bit more flexible with your budget, you can also look into something called a 'line conditioner.'

Too late to help you now, but in this day and age a battery backup is a must. They are relatively cheap and can keep things going. I have a higher end model that once let me play for an hour even though my whole block lost power.

https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BE550G/dp/B0019804U8/ref=sr_1_3/166-5241057-1660131?ie=UTF8&qid=1482417899&sr=8-3&keywords=apc+backup

One side is battery the other side is just surge. Plus these devices condition the line which helps in electrical fluctuations (shitty wiring in older buildings).

A surge protector/power strip or uninterruptible power supply. I bought this one for my first build.

I recommend that everyone get a UPS to protect their electronics even if it doesn't solve a problem with equipment malfunctions.

You can get something a small as this guy:
http://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Outlet-550VA-120V/dp/B0019804U8/

Not expensive (actually cheaper than most routers) and is a really good investment. I'd also like to mention that power protection devices will often provide insurance coverage for damaged equipment up to a specific dollar amount.

lol, I don't think explaining modulation is necessary for this ELI5, but do as you must.

Maybe there is voltage swing in your house. Are there other electrical devices having problems? Maybe this: https://www.amazon.com/APC-BE550G-Back-UPS-8-outlet-Uninterruptible/dp/B0019804U8/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1466063819&sr=1-1&keywords=ups could solve your problems

I found this but it only advertises 13 minutes at half draw so if you're just doing schoolwork and just need time to save it should easily be enough. It also acts as a surge protector.

I actually have this model and it starts beeping rather obnoxiously when the power goes out so you'll definitely be aware when it goes out. Just be careful not to put it near where your feet are when you're using your computer, I've accidently hit the power button on it before...

This is such a load of shit.

I have both my XB1 and my XB1s in a surge protector. They both work flawlessly with no issues at all. Most power supplies for PCs have built-in surge protectors, but still need an external safety net.

Word of advice for all: USE A SURGE PROTECTOR. An ACTUAL surge protector. Not those cheapo power strips you get for $20 at a Walmart.

I use this.

A line conditioner is a great thing to have in front of any electronic device you care about, but it's not enough to overcome the brownouts and power outages you describe. I agree with SD456 that a small UPS would do the trick.

The reason why you should care is because brownouts cause stress to electronic components. Never use your PS4 during a power event like a brownout or thunderstorm, unless it's hooked up to a UPS.

APC Back-UPS 550VA UPS Battery Backup & Surge Protector (BE550G) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019804U8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KnTDybTZJYSPA

That's the one I own

Something like this would run the pumps for a couple hours I would assume. The one I linked I believe will run 165w for 13minutes. You can get bigger and bigger ones if you are fearful of power being out for more than an hour.

I've got two of these and I love them. There's an app that will monitor if the battery backup is being used and you can set to to have the computer gracefully shutdown before the power runs out. nice feature

apc ups

What sort of horror stories have you heard? The batteries are designed to be user replaceable and (though I've never done this one) are typically very easy. Also, if you think that one is going (it will actually tell you when the battery has failed a self test on its built in web-page) you could swap the entire APC unit out with the one from your router. Even with a bad battery it should be able to keep your router up for longer than your desktop connected to an APC with a good battery.

Also no need for a surge protector. You can hook one to it, or hook it into one, and it won't hurt it though. Just take care not to draw more than the device can handle.

And it may be a little overkill to have one of these just for a fios box and one just for a router. You'll get many many times the run time on those two as your will your TV or especially your tower. Something like this would still keep those two boxes up far longer than your PC and cost a fraction.

I have a APC ES 550 USP, and it runs great, but for your needs and price you should look at the APC BR1300G.

Get a battery backup for your mining rig. Maybe something like this

We are :-) Had a power outage 2 months ago that lasted about 4 hours with 20 second blips here and there. We could have lasted about an hour and a half longer by my calculations. The Tesla Power Walls that we have use integrated pure sign inverters, so the APC home UPS's https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BE550G/dp/B0019804U8 work fine for us for those few lost seconds.

Edit: This was not set-up by the contractor to act in the typical Tesla Powerwall way, i.e. dis-charge during high rate hours and recharge during low rate hours daily. We pay a flat rate for our business power, so we set up our Powerwalls to cycle once per week. Perhaps our setup does not transfer as fast due to this. I am not sure.

Can never go wrong with an APC BE550G, though you may want to look at a higher wattage one that can keep your PC running under heavy load.

http://www.amazon.com/APC-BE550G-Back-UPS-8-outlet-Uninterruptible/dp/B0019804U8/ref=zg_bs_764572_1

Here you go sir:
http://www.amazon.com/APC-BE550G-Back-UPS-Outlet-550VA/dp/B0019804U8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1345479638&sr=8-1&keywords=UPS

You should get a small UPS or two, set up one for your wife's computer and such and the other for the TV/Xbox

http://www.amazon.com/APC-BE550G-Back-UPS-8-outlet-Uninterruptible/dp/B0019804U8/

You best bet is to get a small UPS like this one, get adapters for just the UPS, and run everything through the UPS.

The UPS will "clean" the power if it's dirty and if you have converter problems the UPS will blow instead of your expensive computers.

I'm actually not too sure what to look for in them other than battery size and features that they list on the store pages. I asked for this one for Christmas, since it's not crazy pricey.

APC Back-UPS 550VA UPS Battery Backup & Surge Protector (BE550G) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019804U8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_SxnwybBDP27Y6

At work we use the nice like $150 ones.

Uninterupted Power Supply - A battery backup. There are nice, small ones that would ?probably? do the trick. Maybe someone can chime in and make sure.

https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BE550G/dp/B0019804U8

Buy one, mount it near the modem and router, plug them into it, and it into the wall socket. That's it.

This is the one I have. It only uses about 1.8W so it'll only cost you about $2.54 annually to run it. It's fairly small, but it lasts longer that any power outage we've had since I bought it.

My main motivation when I bought it was because my alarm is IP based, not telephone or cell phone based. So in order for the alarm to work I need internet. Having WiFi in a power outage was just a happy byproduct.

This is the one I bought: http://www.amazon.com/APC-BE550G-Back-UPS-Outlet-550VA/dp/B0019804U8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1372620408&sr=8-2&keywords=backup+battery

UPS for surge protection.
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BE550G/dp/B0019804U8

Here

If I were in your shoes and if I had that problem, I would spend big and kill the problem dead, dead, dead the fword dead.

I'd plug a 3000 Joule rated surge protector (like this one from Amazon) into the wall, and I'd plug a battery backed up Uninterruptable Power Supply into that (example). Then I'd connect the sensitive equipment to the UPS.

Wall_Socket <<---- beefy Surge Protector <<---- UPS <<---- Computer

If you absolutely have to, you can use one of these on the outlet. HOWEVER, the box in the wall has to be grounded. You can test that with one of these. If it reads Open Ground then just don't do it - an electrician is a lot cheaper than replacing your stuff. A UPS is also a very smart investment.

I was just thinking about purchasing this one, thoughts?

APC Back-UPS ES 8 Outlet 550VA 120V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019804U8/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_7CSFub066ETCJ

Everyone who owns electronics should get a Uninterrupted Power Supply (UPS) http://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Outlet-550VA-120V/dp/B0019804U8/ref=lp_764572_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1417821806&sr=1-1

Yeah, it's been a while since I've had any outages. I don't have any specific recommendations because the one I was using was found at my local university's surplus center for $5. I had to replace the battery, but it was fine after that. Something like this should be fine, but make sure you get one that can supply enough power for your printer to run off of it. 500W should be fine, but if you do the same upgrade I did with the additional 24V PSU, you may want to go for the 700W one. Anything should do.

Get a pure sine wave inverter, more spendy but less likely to fry your stuff. And we have really dirty power out here with multiple power hits a day and ours work great. I use this one and this one.

Maybe invest in something like this https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BE550G/dp/B0019804U8 to keep your electronics safe.

If the house has electricity problems, you should definitely consider getting an uninterruptible power supply.

Its junk get rid of it. I would recommend getting a back battery/surge protector similar to this.

I have worked in IT for 12 years and we always use APC products. It is a rare occurrence to see one of them fail. I've had this one on my home computer for about 7 years now and it's still going strong.

APC are well known for quality UPS units for servers and the like. They make various consumer units as well. I have one similar to this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019804U8?psc=1
It has a USB connection to the PC and can shut down the PC automatically if power to the UPS fails using their Parachute software

Daily power outage? I think you need one of these babies: http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0019804U8

That should keep the PS4 running for at least 13 minutes. Depending on your TV you may be able to plug it into the same unit, or you might have to get a larger one. If power comes back on in less than 13 minutes normally though you could just leave the PS4 on, just pause the game. Otherwise, 13ish minutes is plenty to save and quit. With a large TV you may only get 3 minutes though, still enough time to save and quit, or just get a larger backup battery.

Did some investigating. I'm starting to think it's a power issue. I've been using a surge protector with a battery backup (like this one) so that if my power goes out, my PC doesn't immediately shut off. It's been having issues recently whenever I had multiple things plugged in, so today I bought a new one that I can plug everything into without issues.

When I turned my PC on after replacing the surge protector, my keyboard's RGB colors turned on (for weeks it's just been the default red with white WASD), but I couldn't type my password in. Unplugging both keyboard cords and plugging them back in brought back the default red color scheme, but I could type again.

So, I have two hypotheses:

1. These surge protectors can't supply enough power to my computer to fully power the keyboard, allowing only basic functionality and not advanced lighting
   
   
2. My power supply doesn't have enough wattage to fully power my computer, and my keyboard's RGB lighting drew the short straw.
   
   Gonna try plugging my computer directly into the wall to see if that resolves it. If not, I'll have to figure out the wattage of my PSU.

This is a great investment. Living in an apartment complex, I experience several quick power cuts a month. I have my tv, receiver, game systems, modem and router hooked into this and never even notice. Internet stays on, cable stays on, gaming stays on.

I use this one for my computer.

These will keep your electronics safe.

I'm thinking of getting this one, would this work?

He's an engineer, what type? If your budget is high enough maybe a 3D printer ($500+), otherwise maybe a UPS (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019804U8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Posting a follow-up in case anyone comes upon this thread later.

I purchased a UPS (APC BE550G Back-UPS 550VA 8-outlet) and waited until the next time I had this same problem. Woke up this past Monday morning to my usual problem, but at least it gave me the opportunity get everything hooked up to the UPS. So by Tuesday AM I had plugged both the router and the modem into one of the UPS battery backup outlets. Everything's been rock-solid since then, so I'm hopeful that my hunch was right about the problem being related to power outages.

I'll follow up again if I get any additional information. But no more posts in this thread means the UPS solved my problem.

Why do some power strips and UPS's have ethernet jacks?
Looking at this one specifically, but others too
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019804U8/

This. Its 50 bucks and solid.

Source: I own one.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0019804U8?pc_redir=1410739809&robot_redir=1

Oh my god get backup power for that :P

(just google UPS)

This is what i use normally for our consoles. Its enough to do your console and opto and monitors and pretty cheap. http://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Outlet-550VA-120V/dp/B0019804U8

You're in the same boat, that setup (sans other toys) is likely pulling ~200 watts idle (lots of fans!), ~350+ under load, with Monitor & toys ~450+ And like for the OP, I'm likely over estimating a bit.

As for TV's , depends on many factors, age, size, backlight etc ... Usually there is an Energy Star sticker on the back with power usage. Unless it's a small LED 24" or something, assume at least 65-150+ watts for 32"+ TVs.

Worst case, you can always buy more UPS' for devices around the house. They work perfectly fine without a computer attached. I always keep a cheapo for the phone/router & table lamp. Only downside when the power goes (besides the neighbors wondering why my TV/HBO is still on) is the insentient beeping the UPS' make while running on battery.

My anti-Resetti device. Anyone with a desktop computer should definitely have one of these!

Have a nearby outlet or space for a large UPS? Philips also makes a LED strip which works with that wireless switch. Recharging the UPS would get a little annoying though so an outlet would be best.

Can I plug my computer with a 650W PSU into a UPS that has a 350W output?

The UPS is an APC Back-UPS 550 which says it is 550A 350W out. This is my build, which calls for 500W.

My plan was to plug the computer into a surge protector strip, and the strip into the UPS. I want the UPS to cover me so that if there's a power outage, I have enough time to safely shut down the computer. I have no intention of running the computer on battery long term.

Will the UPS let the full 650W through when there aren't any power disruptions, or will it only ever let 350W through?

Is this something that I can do, or should I not do it?

Hi, so did you end up getting this UPS? If yes, then how is it working out for you? Thanks!

That's why you always want your essentials on one of these bad boys.

http://www.amazon.com/APC-BE550G-Back-UPS-8-outlet-Uninterruptible/dp/B0019804U8/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1450038335&sr=1-1&keywords=ups this thing?

This one

​

https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BE550G/dp/B0019804U8

Pretty old, according to my dad. He said sometime in the 50s? What kind of strip would you recommend. I've been looking up the issue and some people suggested these things.

Should I just RMA the power supply? What kind of risks are these if I keep using my computer?

Well. Let’s see here. I first purchased this antenna and this mast holder once I made the decision this year to cut the cord. Reading this sub, I quickly realized that I could use this mast amplifier to obtain about 10 more channels and this distribution amplifier to run the signals into 7 rooms of my house.

I configured and tested my setup in the middle of the summer thunderstorm season so I installed this UPS to prevent the brownouts that were occurring all too often during this time. I still had two television sets that were analog/CRT, so I purchased this set top converter which gave me the added bonus of Broadcast DVR when I purchased this flash drive to plug into them.
I then purchased two Roku3 units to supplement my broadcast programming. I also discovered that even when using a dual band router , I was only able to obtain a reliable 18 Mbit wireless stream in my far bedrooms from my Laundry Room equipment location. While this was sufficient for managing two simultaneous streams of HD for now, I was concerned that we would need to have 3 or 4 simultaneous streams or need to upgrade for UltraHD in the next year or so. I then purchased some Cat5e cable and ran 3 separate cables to each of 7 rooms and centralized all the lines into this switch which acted as my Ethernet distribution network.

I had an idle desktop PC with an AMD FX-8350 processor which I upgraded with gigabit LAN, 8GB DDR3 RAM, and five 3TB Disk Drives. I installed Plex Media Server based on recommendations from this sub and I have been torrenting like a madman to fill a little more than half this disk space in the past 4 months. I connected the media server to my Ethernet switch via a Gigabit link and have had no issues with lag even while transcoding on the fly. I plan to purchase some more streaming devices which will probably be Roku3 or Chromecast units depending upon the price and suitability.

My next step is to look at high quality music streaming and how I might integrate some vintage (1980s) audio equipment into this setup.

I think he was more referring to something like this.
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BE550G/dp/B0019804U8

No such thing as too paranoid when it comes to protecting your baby.....err... computer.

If that's a concern I'd recommend getting a UPS (uninterruptible power supply). The battery inside the UPS can even out voltage to your computer, protect from surges, protect from brown outs, and if the power goes out it will give you time to safely shut down your computer.

I like the APC brand personally. https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BE550G/dp/B0019804U8/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1500430469&sr=1-6&keywords=apc+battery

This one says that it should give 20-25min of power on average. Considering I'm only plugging a few christmas lights into it, that should be enough?

http://www.amazon.com/APC-BE550G-Back-UPS-8-outlet-Uninterruptible/dp/B0019804U8/ref=pd_sim_23_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=41zxR4DV2BL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=19E2CN28X2M9RF95JDCC

Personally I'm not a big fan of just power strips because most of them don't do much to protect your PC. So it depends on how good the power is in your home and how much you're willing to spend. If you have good clean power and rarely experience brownouts/blackouts then I would recommend a decent APC surge protector like this one. If however you have had a few brownouts/blackouts and/or would like your PC to maintain power should one occur then I would recommend an APC UPS. How much you spend will be dependent on how long of a battery backup you want. This one would give you a good 5 - 10 minutes (approximately, depending on your PC) of power while this one would give you around 30 minutes.

There are surge protectors with a battery backup built-in for "uninterrupted" use.

These will run a bit more expensive; however, you'll have temporary power to either shut down your computer for example or continue some important work and have the ability to save it really quick.

http://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Outlet-550VA-120V/dp/B0019804U8/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1414510090&sr=1-1&keywords=battery+backup

Get a actual surge protector like this one to help protect your computer from fuzzy power transmission as well as voltage spikes and dips.

A UPS like this one will be a good investment to make, protecting your computer even further by allowing time for your computer to shut down safely. only $67+free shipping for both the UPS and surge protector so its definitely worth it considering how much computer hardware costs. not to mention amazon's awesome customer service when you need them.

I just got a ton of the parts for my build and just now realized i may have gotten an incorrect UPS to supply power to it.

The power supply on my build is the Corsair CRM 550. The full list of parts is below.

PC Part picker estimates that my build will use 237 Watts of power.

On top of this build, I also got a surge protector/battery since I want to keep it safe (and my old one is super old).

I got this APC UPS and found that, upon receiving it, it states "550va, 330 watts" on the box.

Will I have to return it and get something bigger if in the case that my build goes over 330 watts of usage?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-4790 3.6GHz Quad-Core Processor | $304.93 @ NCIX US
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | $31.99 @ Directron
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-H97M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $83.99 @ Directron
Memory | Kingston HyperX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $165.57 @ Amazon
Storage | Samsung 840 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $149.78 @ Amazon
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Superclocked Video Card | $148.49 @ OutletPC
Case | Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (White) ATX Mid Tower Case | $128.38 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | Corsair RM 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $107.99 @ Directron
Optical Drive | Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer | $18.16 @ OutletPC
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $1139.28
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-11-24 20:25 EST-0500 |

First of all, thank you very much for the help. The TP-LINK is a TL-SF1005D, which is unmanaged, so you are correct, no IP. Not sure how I came up with the IP conflict earlier.

I've updated the future network diagram here (new equipment in orange): http://imgur.com/qoyRQi4

It looks like I will need:

(1) [UBIQUITI USG] (https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Security-Gateway-USG/dp/B00LV8YZLK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495983480&sr=8-1&keywords=Ubiquiti+USG)

(1) 16 PORT SWITCH

(1) [UPS] (https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BE550G/dp/B0019804U8/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1495985064&sr=1-4&keywords=apc+ups)

(3) UAP-AC-LITE

Questions:

• Is it worth spending the extra money for a ubiquiti switch vs netgear?
  
  
• Should I replace the 5 port TP-Link in the office to match the new 16 port switch?
  
  
• It looks like the UAP-AC-LITE has two ethernet connections. Is one in and one out to a hardwired device?
  
  
• Will the UAP-AC-LITE work like a wifi extener? No hard wired connection in, ethernet out to a device?
  
  Cost effective question:
  
  
• Would it be feasible to disable the 2.4 and 5.0 network on the existing E2500 router and install a UAP-AC-LITE for wifi?
  

Probably won't go wrong with the bestseller.

This is a ups: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0019804U8

Uninterruptible Power Supply. Basically a power strip with a battery. They also have "smart" UPS's that you can have a cable (usually serial or usb) that you can plug into your computer. You can configure software to shutdown your computer safely if you lose power.

Another advantage of UPS's -- clean power. You don't get high's and low's -- it's steady and clean. A neat trick to know if you have clean power or not? Light bulbs. If you go through a lot of light bulbs -- you have shit power and that's, usually, what's killing all your bulbs.

> I was dumbfounded, in my own little world I thought every programmer used a sort of linux OS or at least a Mac.

Nope. I know people who, initially, thought HTML was "programming". I don't mean "CSS+HTML+Javascript" -- I mean literally just HTML.

> I mean every tool I work on runs from a terminal, and if I get stuck or I literally get a crash, exception, or error I copy that shit into google without a thought and find out who had the same error either on SO or in github.

Yeah. I've had people freak out at errors because it had a lot of useless information. I had one user who called me because they got an error and couldn't figure out what was going on. "What does the error say?" -- "I don't know a lot of IT stuff" -- "Try me. Let's go line by line." -- "Device not plugged into power. Please plug into-- ohhhhhhhhh" -- yeah, I've had conversations like that. They literally didn't read the very first line of an error message before asking for help.

Or hey, here's a fun one. "My mouse isn't working." -- "Ok, is it wireless?" -- "Yes" -- "Have you replaced the batteries?" -- "Those need to be replaced?" -- "......yes."

I shit you not. People still don't know wireless stuff needs to be recharged or have batteries replaced.

UPS - Uninterruptible Power Supply. A battery backup that keeps your computer on while the power is out or having power surge/brown out.

Something like this from Amazon.

A UPS for a computer maybe?

http://www.amazon.com/BE550G-Back-UPS-8-outlet-Uninterruptible-Supply/dp/B0019804U8
It's on the compatibility list and it works fine on my DS1511+.

You can plug a power strip into a battery-backed UPS port and it will still be battery-backed. Just add up all of the watts you need and buy a UPS that can provide at least that much. It's probably not going to be that much. My router closet (pfsense router, wifi access point, raspberry pi) runs off of a little APC 550VA/330W UPS. Cable modem has its own battery pack because it's a comcast voice modem. I do have a cable amp in the closet, but I don't have it or my main switch connected to backup power because it's okay if those go offline for 10-15 seconds.

I have my FreeNAS and VM servers elsewhere running off a CyberPower 1500VA/900W UPS, and my whole home theater (HTPC, Xbone, Xbox 360, TV, AVR, subwoofer) run off of two older APC 1300VA/780W units that I had kicking around and bought new batteries for. I do have the HTPC and VM server connected to the UPSes for monitoring and self-testing, but I don't have them setup to take action when on battery power because I really only need them to last for 10-15s at a time. Long enough for my standby generator to spin up and switch from mains to generator power in the event of an outage.

Depending on how old your current UPS is, you might want to consider getting a replacement battery. You're really supposed to change them out every 3-4 years, though I made it to year 5 on mine. Which reminds me, I probably need to replace the battery in my 550 soon.

It sounds like a power problem. The only thing it sounds like you haven't tried is a UPC. Give something like this a try. If you have power but it is not clean power the UPC will filter it with the battery supplying during awkward lows and absorbing spikes. Just make sure you plug in all of the computer parts to the battery side. A surge protector won't necessarily help you clean up the power the way a UPC will.

> APC SmartUPS

i know that the regular powerstrip taht we often use as extension cords dont really protect anything at all. But what are all the different types of surge protection devices? and how do they differ from each other?

For example, there's the simple UPS: these basically dont do anything until a spike, brownout, blackout, power surge happens right? and when it does, it basically gives you a minute or two of time to shut the devices down... so basically it kicks in when it's needed correct?
http://www.amazon.com/APC-BE550G-Back-UPS-8-outlet-Uninterruptible/dp/B0019804U8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463908645&sr=8-1&keywords=ups
http://www.newegg.com/UPS/SubCategory/ID-72

Then there's the kind (like the one more expensive one i linked in main mpost) that continuously convert the power and regulate it into the safest power for your devices, so it ensures that the power going to your devices are the cleanest as it can be. AND it also does everything the simple UPS does as well in case something was to happen. RIGHT?

Is there a need to protect the system this way as opposed to just using a simple UPS that protects when it is needed? For example, if i pick the UPS only route, what am i not being protect from ? What does the continuous regulation of power protect me from that's lacking in a UPS only device?

http://www.amazon.com/APC-BE550G-Back-UPS-Outlet-550VA/dp/B0019804U8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371879294&sr=8-1&keywords=ups+battery+backup

BAM! my dad is a electrical engineer and he buy's these for himself and any client he sets up a computer for

Alternatively, you could get a UPS. This saved me multiple times during college when I was working on a paper on my desktop and the power went out

link to goodies

A lot of folks do amazing work on reddit and rarely get the recognition. I applaud you for helping out people through the internet!

If you have friends, consider Tabletop Simulator. It pretty much has an infinite amount of replay-ability. I would also vouch for Rocket League.

If you're into mods there's also a lot of games on Steam and in general with lots of mod support. (Minecraft comes to mind)

Also consider getting a better mouse, or microfiber cloths to clean your PC area, or save a little bit more and buy a UPS to protect your investment.

You can get a UPS for about 40 bucks https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BE550G/dp/B0019804U8

I have absolutely no idea, but it looks like you may want this if you want to keep you computer on it (over your budget, but currently on sale), or something like this thats more so within your budget but wont support your PC. You could also get a tool to test and get an exact-imate power draw from the wall for what you want to use and then return it and buy your UPS. For the record i simply went to amazon and typed UPS and picked the top two things.