Reddit Reddit reviews Apollo Horticulture GLK600LS24 600 Watt Grow Light Digital Dimmable HPS MH System for Plants Air Cool Hood Set

We found 18 Reddit comments about Apollo Horticulture GLK600LS24 600 Watt Grow Light Digital Dimmable HPS MH System for Plants Air Cool Hood Set. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Gardening & Lawn Care
Indoor Gardening & Hydroponics
Plant Growing Light Fixtures
Patio, Lawn & Garden
Apollo Horticulture GLK600LS24 600 Watt Grow Light Digital Dimmable HPS MH System for Plants Air Cool Hood Set
1- 600 Watt Dimmable Electronic Fan Cooling Ballast; Acceptable input: 110v - 240v. Dimmable Option: 50%, 75% & 100%1 - HPS Bulb: Lumen - 87,000 & 1 - MH Bulb: Lumen - 68,0001 - Air Cool: 24" x 17" x 9" Made of Galvanized Steel & German Aluminum1- Pair of Rope Hanger : Weight Capacity - 150 lbs per pair w/ Improved Metal Internal Gears; One Click at a Time / 1 - 24 Hour Timer ControllerPackage Includes: 1 – Reflector / 1 – HPS Bulb / 1 – MH Bulb / 1 – Digital Ballast / 1 – Pair of Hangers / 1 – Timer / 1 – Instructional Pamphlet
Check price on Amazon

18 Reddit comments about Apollo Horticulture GLK600LS24 600 Watt Grow Light Digital Dimmable HPS MH System for Plants Air Cool Hood Set:

u/GroAwayAccount · 4 pointsr/microgrowery

Ordered Via Amazon.

Overall, 3/5 stars. The hood weld seams, spot welds, are garbage and falling apart. Both inlets for the hood are bent and will need fixing. It will function and do it's job, but the package protection for shipping was underwhelming. Shipped by Psychedelic FrogFish Co in Walnut, CA.

I have a 4'x4' Aviditi tent, fan + filter combo, and some other stuff coming up for my next review. I will post pictures once it is all setup.

EDIT: Contacted the seller and he is shipping a new hood, free of charge, and didn't request the old hood back. He is legit.

u/SuperAngryGuy · 4 pointsr/microgrowery

I was wondering what the catch was. I was trying to find the product history.

OP, it's a Chinese special with razor thin margins (they have a different ballast in the photo). You can see on their webpage that the ballast is even different than the one shown on the Amazon link.

I'd go with this more efficient reflector if you do decide on this brand. The cool tube is a relatively inefficient reflector.

Looks like the seller has inconsistent pricing. edit: the seller buys for half this price

Same ballast, different label. Typical of Chinese imports.

That shipping price makes it too good to be true.

u/blpsoup · 4 pointsr/IndoorGarden

As a vague generality, if you take a plant and put it under a light and give it water, it will grow, and with enough time, will produce -something-. Obviously, you think it takes a bit more, so that's why you're here. When it comes to indoor growing, there are many things that have to be taken into consideration because we are first removing all of the things a plant requires for survival then take it upon ourselves to be the one to provide it. To make these things apparent, we need to account for all of the things deprived to the plant by removing it from the outdoors:


  • Light
  • Humidity
  • Air Flow
  • Temperature (100% dependent on what plant you're growing)


    The Law of the Minimum states that a natural system is only as strong as it's weakest input. The number of factors that can limit a plant's health are near limitless, but these above items need to be addressed to begin encroaching on the realm of 'happy, healthy plant'. The information below will be debated by some, but here's my stance: Growing indoors is an energy intensive activity, and the costs can get out of control quickly. My philosophy is that I want the biggest possible return on my investment of money, time, and energy, so I aim to produce the best possible product. Ambient airflow, air pressure, and humidity affect all aspects of growing; changing one, changes the other. For example, setting up a exhaust in the tent that can move air out at a rate higher than it flows in causes something referred to as a Vapor Pressure Deficit, in which the pressure of the air literally sucks moisture out of the air and restricts the plants natural "respiration" process, resulting in upward curled leaves on plants, and stunted growth (this is fixed by using a fan speed controller and using an appropriately sized fan for the space). You want all the air inside of a tent replaced every 5 minutes in order to cause no interference, but a plant can usually take significantly more pressure before showing signs of stress. Like temperature, this factor is unique to each type of plant, so YMMV. If you're not going for smell control however, a minimal amount of air flow will suffice. The less interference you have to introduce to a grow tent, the less variables that have to be accounted for. Generally, you want your humidity around 70% for leafy greens and herbs, and 40-50% for anything that bears vegetables or fruit. This isn't a panacea, but in your case it gets you to 'close enough' with the least consequences. Adding degrees of varying control will give you the ability to adjust your environment accordingly to meet these unique requirements.


    There are many, many ways to measure light, and it can be as simple or as complicated an ordeal as you like. I like to break it down and compare the earth to the sun like we compare a grow tent's square footage to wattage of the grow light. That said, the sun produces 3.86 x 1026 watts of energy, or 380,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000 watts. Most of that energy goes off into space, but about 1.74 x 1017 watts strikes the earth. (ie: 174,000,000,000,000,000, or 174 quadrillion watts). Broken down to the 197 million square feet that makes up the surface of the planet, approximately 100-130 watts of sunlight are needed per square foot of growing space in order to create an environment suitably similar to sunlight. In your environment, you need approximately 1,000 watts of light in order to get the same kind of results you'd see with old fashioned direct sunlight. It should be noted however that you can just as well get away with weaker lights (I use 600 watts in the same footprint dimmed to 450W with no major problems, and recommend the same here to avoid ventilation complications).


    Now, what kind of light do you need? pre-tl;dr If you're operating on a tight budget, get an array of T5s and call it good. You can get away with just about anything, although anything in the 5500k spectrum for a T5, CFL or HID light will be perfectly suitable. For LED lights, don't trust the advertised wattage, and look at the actual wattage rating of the product to get a good ballpark estimate of what kind of experience you can expect with any given light (while manufacturers can fudge light spectrums on LEDs, they can't fudge true watts). Some lights have more abstract advantages over others (e.g. par levels, spectrum ranges, etc), but for simplicity's sake we'll not worry about those.


    CFL lights are far and away one of the cheapest ways to get into indoor growing, and the lights produce very little heat, minimizing needs for ventilation. An added benefit of being a cool light is that plants can be extremely close to CFL bulbs without blanching the leaves, enablng a grower to create grow spaces in extremely confined areas. The downside is clutter and the requirement to construct a hood: You would need 20 50 watt CFL bulbs to match a single 1,000 watt HID bulb, and 20-bulb hoods that fit in a 2x4 footprint don't exist so far as I know). Plants grown on fluorescent lights tend to experience less dense growth than HID when grown using equivalent amounts of light wattage per square foot. Fluorescent lights are good for around 10,000 hours of use in growing. You can expect to pay around $75-$125 for a CFL array, and around 12 hours constructing the array itself.


    T5 lights have all of the advantages of CFL, and fewer disadvantages (less clutter, no need to build a hood) at the exchange of increased cost (a bit higher than HID for the really nice arrays). You can expect to pay around $175 for a T5 fixture. T5 and CFL lights can be kept around 10-12" from plants.


    HID lights are the industry standard, forming a balance between cost, output, and required infrastructure to support. The cost is comparable to T5 lights, but come with a number of distinct advantages. Science aside, an HID will produce denser, fuller plants through all stages of growth using the same wattage of T5s and CFLs and are produced with a significantly lower failure rate than many LED units. HIDs produce a LOT of residual heat, but this problem has long been accounted for with the advent of ventilated hoods. These hoods are designed to perfectly mate with HVAC components, allowing for cold air to be blown directly over the hot bulb, and none of that residual heat ever making it's way into the tent. HID lights are kept 12-16" from the plants


    LED lights are the new kids in the block. Beginning with the trendy magenta glow, LED lights were designed to utilize specific spectrums of visible light and eliminate spectrums deemed 'harmful to plants'. We now know that to be farce, and nearly all of the highest end LED arrays are full spectrum COB (chip on board) arrays that can go into the thousands of dollars in price (or about the same as a T5 array, if you're savvy enough to build one yourself). There are a number of magenta lights that still exist, and they can be utilized to great effect (I've done a number of grows through flower on a Mars Hydro II light), however this information comes with a disclaimer: Many LED light manufacturers lie, and many LED light fixtures fail. While many manufacturers will list data sheets and cite numbers til they're red in the face, most LED lights are manufactured in China, and many more fail to meet the quality control standards of the original design. If you want a good comparison, consider the 'hoverboard' fiasco last Christmas, with thousands of knockoff boards catching fire across the world. Speaking of fire, the latest and most powerful LEDs produce a LOT of waste heat, enough so that a large part of many arrays include a number of heatsinks and fans to keep them cool. This bothers me, because instead of being able to pipe hot air away from the tent in a nice, single direction, the LED light is piping out hot air in every direction. I generally find my tents run around 10 degrees (fahrenheit) hotter when I run LED lights than HID. LED lights are kept 18-24" from the plants.


    Assuming a non-defective unit, LED lights have an expected lifespan of 30,000-50,000 hours. A single LED light is worth the price of 3 HID bulbs. LED Lights offer even higher PAR levels than HID (often described a bit inaccurately by some as 'light penetration'), creating compact, bushier plants than HID lights using an equivalent wattage. LED makes sense if you're investing in this hobby for the long term, and want the most out of your money.


    All of the above taken into account, and with your space, I recommend a 4 foot 450w T5 light, or 600W HPS HID light with a dimmable ballast and cool hood, dialed down to 450w to increase bulb lifespan.
u/[deleted] · 2 pointsr/eldertrees

I started with 100 bucks bought 4 t8 shop lights from home depot, 2 pieces of plywood, and 4 5 gallon buckets. Used organic miracle grow and was in business.
I got like 4 ounces of bud from that investment, but it was a pain too use and I had so many problems, that the 2nd and 3rd harvests; were so bad I was dry for 3 months.

But I've learned a lot since than if you have the money, these items will save you the bullshit that i went through.

600w grow light $200

[Carbon Air Filter]
(http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0052ZPMAG/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) $175

Some Bubble pack insulation at home depot $50-100

[General Organics]
(http://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-Box-Starter-Kit/dp/B004PS4B08/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367524539&sr=8-1&keywords=General+Organics) $40 starter box will last one cycle

these should get you through your first grow np. and I've already recouped all of the money I've spent on these items with the first harvest, I was paying 350 an ounce before hand to a dealer and now for way pennies on the dollar I have the dankest dank around and it's fucking awesome fucking awesome.

Reading is ok but once you get started you'll realize that most things people post are bs and the best way to learn it is to just do it, and experiment on your own; most things look much harder than they actually are.

I feel so liberated now that I can produce my own and the money that you save omfg the money you save.

u/accelerateforward · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

I have this light.

So I can just shove it in the corner of a dark room with some panda plastic and it will be fine for the veg stage? Is it crazy/stupid to be thinking about closing off the corners with some cardboard/plywood or something? So it's like a little square area, top open, that the light will hang over?

u/Gyneslayer · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

You amurrica eh? This was on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005ECZQTY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_jCNGzbKHZ98YS
Let me try to help you figure this out. These will give off quite a bit of heat (which is great for winter northerners) but summer can get pretty hot. You will want to seal off the room somehow as well, like the other comments said, fuck bugs! This can be hung maximum 1.5 feet before you burn the plant so you might be ok with some training.

600 watt will cover about 4 x 4 foot area so squish each plant in that space roughly and bunch all the branches up like roses, this will give a good lollipop shape and save space but at the same time maximize the light of the main colas. I just hope you have enough headroom for flower stretch!

Hopefully you have some fans laying around to simulate a gentle breeze and help temp control. I try to be as crafty as possible before spending a ton of money, (the light was an exception). Use what you have around the house or go to dollar stores for like white paint sheets to create your own tent for cheap, until you can invest more.

Goodluck, hopefully this ramble is useful to you!

u/SiLhoueT_Te · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

very high quality, and I kinda thought about the price as well but then put it into perspective. A 600w grow kit cost less than the two 300w leds which are actually around 180 true watts. two of them in my 36x36x78 is wonderful, not great but sufficient. one 300w led in my tent would not be enough though, I need two so it makes sense they're not very expensive yet beautiful quality. I would only worry that the delivery service handles them with care. I was lucky and both arrived in perfect condition from UPS.

u/RaginMoose · 1 pointr/microgrowery

Thank you for your advice! I have been looking at Mars Hydro LEDs on Amazon. I see a 300w for $90 or a 600w for $159. Do you think it's worth the jump in price to go with the 600w for a smaller scale grow? I was looking at HID kits as well, for nearly the same price as the 600w Mars Hydro you can go with this option as well http://amzn.com/B005ECZQTY

Thanks for your insight, it is greatly appreciated!

u/zendodo · 1 pointr/entwives

We were using CFL's for vegging and LED for flowering. Our LED light is just a really thin strip so I don't think it's distributing enough light out to the plants. I just bought a 600w HPS: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ECZQTY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


We're growing in a basement. It can get fairly cold in the winter so hopefully the HPS will even out the temp a little. Otherwise we do have a space heater we can turn on occasionally.

I was planning on just setting up an oscilating fan in the bud room. But with this new money I was thinking we could get the actual 6in fan that goes in the hood.

Do you use ducting for ventilation? Is it possible to connect the ventilation from the grow room to the ventilation from the dryer or water heater thing? There are ducts that go right through the grow room. Otherwise there's a window in the grow room but it's pretty easy to see from outside. I don't need it to be super discreet since it's medical but I don't want to advertise what we're doing either.


I also was considering getting an actual grow tent. Right now we kind of just surrounded the area where the plants are with mylar from emergency blankets and tents. I'm a little worried about them getting either too hot or not being sealed enough to keep the light in.

Any thoughts on the above info is definitely welcome :) We're very much new time growers. We harvested once and it was a pretty small amount, but we got high off of it! So goal semi accomplished haha

u/Sabertooth805 · 1 pointr/microgrowery

Ok, so I am scrapping the 2 smaller CFLs that I have and selling them on Ebay and amazon. I am going with a package like this that includes a 600W HPS and MH bulb, timer, and an Aircool hood.
Does dimming them essentially reduce the Kelvins without sacrificing wattage? Or will both be reduced? Or am I completely wrong haha.

u/Battered_Unicorn · 1 pointr/microgrowery

Imo you'd be better off getting a cob setup with cbx 3590 or vero 29 cobs this site has some good options to choose from. If you want to try out something different with good coverage and efficiency check out qb boards. If you want something affordable, yet powerful go with a 600/1000 mh/hps light. If you just want a basic cheap led light marshydro 300w(132w actual) is a good start.

u/TheGoodLordsTaint · 1 pointr/microgrowery

> Or you could hop on Apollo Horticulture 600w air cooled digital MH/HPS ~200$ and get a higher yield than that

Yeah, price & yield are definitely factors.

On the Apollo, would you recommend the cool-tube model

u/Numberoneallover · 1 pointr/microgrowery

No, but here's the first one that pops up when you search on amazon

Apollo Horticulture GLK600LS24 600 Watt Grow Light Digital Dimmable HPS MH System for Plants Air Cool Hood Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005ECZQTY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YMP4ybBEE64H8