Reddit Reddit reviews Apoxie Sculpt - 2 Part Modeling Compound (A & B) - 1 Pound, White

We found 27 Reddit comments about Apoxie Sculpt - 2 Part Modeling Compound (A & B) - 1 Pound, White. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

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Apoxie Sculpt - 2 Part Modeling Compound (A & B) - 1 Pound, White
PERFECT FOR YOUR NEXT PROJECT - Apoxie Sculpt combines the features and benefits of sculpting clay with the adhesive power of epoxy! Perfect for your next cosplay, craft project, or home décor!NO BAKING - Unlike traditional modeling clay, Apoxie Sculpt cures hard in 24 hours with a semi-gloss finish, making it perfect for additions to costumes or crafts that are too large or delicate for the oven.STRONG ADHESIVE POWER - Because it adheres to nearly any surface, it's great for sculpting, embellishing, bonding, and filling almost any project!PACKAGED BY HAND - You might notice a fingerprint or two when you open a new container of Apoxie Sculpt—don't worry, it hasn't been used! Each container is carefully packaged by hand.MULTIPLE COLORS AVAILABLE - Apoxie Sculpt is available in 12 vibrant colors: Natural, White, Black, Brown, Orange, Yellow, Green, Blue, Red, Pink, Silver-Grey-Grey, Bronze. If you are looking for a bright white color, please check out our Super White Apoxie (our regular Apoxie Sculpt white is more of a copy paper white vs bright white).
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27 Reddit comments about Apoxie Sculpt - 2 Part Modeling Compound (A & B) - 1 Pound, White:

u/nickrarri · 8 pointsr/Nerf
u/Meishel · 6 pointsr/Nerf

I run this instead of a Dremel brand tool. I have had a couple Dremels die on me over the years, so I tried this one and it has lasted 4 years so far! I also got a lot of my bits from harbor freight. I use the cuttoff wheels (ALWAYS WEAR FACE PROTECTION WITH THESE), Sanding Drums, and grinding stones the most. Use the cutoff for cutting out large swaths of material, sanding drums for tighter areas, and grinding stones to debur and smooth it all out. Most work that needs a dremel can be done with hand tools for better control. Coping saw, files, and flush cutters can go a long way. A lot of the "pros" don't use Dremels because they can jump out of control and hit a part of the blaster you planned on leaving stock and leaving a huge gash.

As for soldering Irons, I've heard wonderful things about this model, but cheaper models will work fine. TBH, I'd grab something in the $10 range and see if he sticks with the hobby. Maybe for christmas you can get him a nicer one if he's still going at it. I use a super duper old school Weller soldering station, so really anything will work. The issue you'll get with the cheaper soldering irons is the tips will tend to not last long and the heating element might crap out after a few months. Don't go cheaper than $10 here as some of them are meant for wood engraving, not soldering and wont get hot enough to melt solder. Any size solder is fine. I personally use lead/tin solder and just avoid breathing fumes as well as wash my hands when I'm done modding. Lead solder is MUCH easier to work with and requires less heat. Look for "Rosin Core solder" as it's easier to work with as it has flux in the center of the solder.

Good flush cutters, hobby knife, wire strippers, heatshrink, wire, loctite, etc are all valuable modding supplies. We sell some on our shop (shameless plug). I would recommend for plastic to plastic bonds he use Devcon Plastic Welder (make sure it contains Methyl Methacrylate as this acts as a solvent weld to bond the plastics together chemically instead of a weak adhesive grip like putty). Putty should be used as a filler material. I use two different putties. Free form Air for large amounts of gap fill, it is 6 times less dense than normal putty so it wont make the blaster weight 8 pounds when done. It is VERY easy to sand, but sometimes requires a thin layer of bondo over top of it to leave a perfect finish. I also use Apoxie Sculpt which is a direct replacement for normal putty for gap filling purposes. It's MUCH easier to sand than JB Weld putty, and leaves a nice smooth finish when sanded down.

Speaking of sandpaper, get various grades of sandpaper from 100 down to 600 grit (I go as far as 1000 if I want a gloss sheen on something).

Other than all of that, the tools I have on my bench that I would hate to mod without now are: Helping hands (for soldering), various different sizes of needle nose pliers, numerous sizes of small to medium screwdrivers, silicone lubricant, hot glue (for securing wires inside the shell), Electric Screwdriver, and various tweezers.

u/VaultBoy42 · 3 pointsr/ArticulatedPlastic

It often depends on what your end goal is. Some sculpting putty is going to be a bit softer and rubbery as it cures, while others will be very hard.

I like Aves Apoxie Sculpt for most projects. It's very hard when it cures, but you can work a decent amount of detail into it if you sculpt it after it's been out a while, but before it totally cures.

u/Nxn21 · 3 pointsr/Ghostbc

SE DD312 12-Piece Stainless Steel Wax Carvers Set

Apoxie Sculpt 1 lb. White, 2 Part Modeling Compound (A & B)

Sand Detailer Finishing Kit, Finer Grits, 24 piece

SERONLINE 24pcs Ball Stylus Dotting Tools, Polymer Modeling Clay Sculpting Tools Set Rock Painting Kit for Sculpture Pottery

Monster Clay Premium Grade Modeling Clay (5lb)

u/FC-TWEAK · 3 pointsr/Nerf

Along with the already great suggestions by OrangeKrate76, check out Apoxie Sculpt.

It dries/cures slower so it gives you more working time to work with molding, so less sanding to do in the long run. But I'm not sure the structural and weight difference versus 2 part epoxy.

u/Myvenom · 3 pointsr/Nerf

Ok good because I’d recommend this stuff. It’s very easy to work with and fill holes. A little tip is to wet your fingers down after it’s pretty much in place and smooth it out. It takes awhile to set up but after that a little sanding and paint away.

u/TrevNick · 3 pointsr/amiibo

This is what I use for my customs.


It's really sturdy & you can even get long/thin/sharp details without worrying about them breaking off.

Look up some tutorials & be sure to play around with it.

Haven't used it but a lot of people say "Green Stuff" is good too.

Just whatever you do, stay away from any air/bake dry clays I've yet to see any custom using those turn out decent.

u/CobaltMoon98 · 2 pointsr/funkopop
u/ZoodlezuZ · 2 pointsr/funkopop

Sounds good! I got mine on Amazon.
Apoxie Sculpt 1 Lb. White

u/itshuffman · 2 pointsr/SquaredCircle

Apoxie sculpt seems to be the standard for custom POP Vinyl figures.

u/Extech · 2 pointsr/ActionFigures

I've purposely bought a few damaged figures, but I'm very into customizing, so I tend to buy what I think I can fix.

If your absolutely going to buy the statue one way or the other and the damage isn't too severe I'd consider picking it up and saving the money.

I've never fixed a statue, but I'd assume it's a little easier than a fig since there's no moving parts.

If you got a picture of the damage I, or someone else more knowledgeable than me could give you some pointers on how to fix it.

Since it's Batman's cape, I'm assuming one of the end spikes broke off. If that's the case all you would need to do is buy some Apoxie Sculpt or similar epoxy, re-sculpt the damaged part, then try to match the paint with some black/blue acylics.

You say the damage isn't noticeable in certain poses so even if the fix isn't that pretty, from a distance it'll probably look fine.

u/BarefootHippieDesign · 2 pointsr/crafts

You could try polymer clay or a product called Apoxy Sculpt that I found on amazon. I've used this with great success.
Apoxy Sculpt

u/factorV · 2 pointsr/hardware

I use this stuff called apoxie sculpt, it is great for that stuff. it mixes in two parts (like an epoxy) stays workable for about 2 hours, adheres to almost anything, is pretty cheap and hardens like the original plastic substance.

*oh, and it can be tooled once cured.

u/Ashrooms · 1 pointr/OOAKDOLLS
u/kuqumi · 1 pointr/halloween

In 2011 I did a scary pumpkin head mask... I got a foam pumpkin at Michael's, carved a face in it, and made an opening at the bottom so I could wear it. I fastened a brimless baseball cap inside so it would fit securely. Then I put a piece of clear plastic inside the eyes at an angle, and mounted LED eyes inside the top of the mask, pointing down. Because of the plastic reflector, from the front the LED eyes looked like they were deep inside the mask. (same technique as the Terminator mask in this video)

This year I plan to revisit the concept, but with better carving. I will use some Apoxie to give the pumpkin some thickness near where it's carved. I'll put a closet push-light inside the forehead and run a wire out of the head so I can switch it on when I want, and I'll wear this mask directly on my face.

I'm planning to cut the mask into a face part and a jaw part, and fasten both parts to a morphsuit face stocking so the mask mouth moves with mine. It should be pretty unsettling.

u/LH99 · 1 pointr/lockpicking

One idea I had for this is to use epoxie sculpt. It's a two part solid that you combine into a clay you can sculpt. It becomes hard as a rock after about a 30 minute working time or something like that. Using water can help smooth the surface.

I was thinking about trying this on a pick just to see if it would hold up to use since it'd be a really fast, easy way to get a completely comfortable grip molded to your hand and how YOU hold a pick.

u/Stankshadow · 1 pointr/ActionFigures

Aves is a "apoxy" clay. It air drys so you don't have to bake anything. It's not an epoxy it's an apoxy. Not sure if apoxy is a real word though.

u/ByZeus · 1 pointr/Gunpla

there's two types of putty, basic putty for filling in tiny holes, gaps or panel lines. and the other is epoxy sculpting putty. this is the stuff for bigger jobs like adding custom details or redefining "parts". tamiya sells some and so do other brands, i personally use this

u/pennydox · 1 pointr/RWBY

It was originally the little plastic monster that came with the Alisa Ilyinichna Omela Nendoroid
I used an exacto knife to shave all the plastic parts off to make the right body shape, then took apoxy sculpt clay to make the body texture and spikes, then I sprayed Tamiya Grey Primer on top, then painted it black/white/red with Tamiya acrylic paints.
I hope this helps.

u/Hawki007 · 1 pointr/Nerf

Sweet. Keep us up to date on the ammo counter! Get this, stuff works great =)

u/Kineticka · 1 pointr/cosplayprops

No problem at all!

That top section is just spare insulated electrical wire I had floating about, with those grey blobs formed out of Apoxie Sculpt. If you're not familiar with it, it's two-part epoxy clay that will harden to a rock a short time after you combine the two parts, so you can mold it to whatever shape you like and set it fairly quickly. I just slapped it around the wire and hoped for the best, but another option that might look neater is if you find rubber tubing just large enough to slide over the wire in those sections.

For the anchoring, I'm going to MacGuyver this, mostly because I'm having a brain fart and can't think of a search term for what I actually want, so let's start from the bottom of the construction. Get your bucket lid that you'll be using for the base. Epoxy (or screw, if you're feeling adventurous) a light bulb socket to the center -- this will provide that wide, stable base that I failed at when I was building mine. Scoop out a hollow in your styrofoam round large enough to make it sit around that socket, and cut a hole over the socket part. Glue the styrofoam to the bucket lid once you're sure everything lines up properly. We'll be adding the dowel next, but we need to see how long that dowel needs to be.

Take your mannequin head, and flip it upside down. You should see the hole in the bottom of the neck for conventional use. That will not be nearly deep enough. I speak from experience. If you're using a plastic one, you might need to drill to get past the stoppage at the end, if you're using styrofoam a long knife or screwdriver and some patience should work. Get all the way up into the head if you can, but at the very least get a few more inches to work with. Now take your dowel, and push it in as far as it will go. Mark that point on it, that's one end of the depth. Do the same into the socket under the foam. Measure to those marks and add them together, that is the total length of your dowel, cut it to that size.

The most important part here is getting a solid connection from the dowel into the socket. Epoxy should be strong enough, but whatever you use, make sure that the dowel is not moving, it will only end in tears. Once that's solid, cut a hole in the bottom of your (already colored) bucket and slide it down the dowel, attach to the foam round with epoxy. Volia. You have a solid anchor that's long enough to actually hold the head up. That should be able to handle bobbling around, if rotation becomes an issue and you don't expect to take the head back out, you can glue the head to the bottom of the bucket, but if removal might be needed, velcro should do the trick.

I hope that was clear enough!

Edit: Oh I'm a dumbass, you were probably asking about the part behind the wire at the top. That's actually part of the bucket I used and just painted to match, I went digging and found my old order for it. Not sure if that one in particular is still available, but as long as you have that little lip area where the lid connects, you should be fine.

u/sleepcurse · 1 pointr/trees

Damn that sucks, is it a handle or does air actually have to travel thru it?

If it's just a handle I bet something like this would work

u/Blackboard_Monitor · 1 pointr/sculpting

Stupid good for modeling and so strong that 24hrs after I mixed it I sometimes carve it with a dremel, amazing modeling clay.

u/f0k4ppl3 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I've had very good results with this stuff. Has a much longer sculpt time. Water soluble. Dries hard but with a stoney, chalky texture that makes it great for carving details if you need. Because it's water soluble, you can work it into the seams, then wipe off the excess with a cloth and get a perfect fill which doesn't need sanding.

Also, remember that you can always try stuff on scrap pieces. No need to guess how it will come out.

u/DiceToMeetYou · 1 pointr/minipainting

Not sure if you want something entirely empty like OP's base, but I just finished a set of 12 Bones skeletons (there's probably a joke there). Anyway, I used some plain 1" round bases and Apoxie Sculpt to blend the hunk of plastic down smooth with the base. Some of them are propped up on rocks I sculpted if their existing base was too wide for the new base. They all came out looking pretty nice and it didn't take too much effort. I can grab some photos later if you like.

I'm also very new to this so do take this advice with a grain of salt, there are probably better solutions out there, but this worked for me.

u/mattiep9 · 1 pointr/405th

While I have no experience making prop guns, I have made prop swords using PVC fake-wood, which is very easy to cut and sand. I usually cut the general shape of the sword, then use a dremel to sand to a better shape. Once I am happy with the shape, I do detailing with Apoxie Sculpt, which becomes rock hard, but can make some very nice details.

However, I usually do a single piece construction, so more complex shapes like guns may need to be made separately and assembled. If you aren't happy with the detail on pepakura files, I would recommend trying to use Apoxie Sculpt to add the details once the model has been hardened.