Reddit reviews Aqua Clear, Fish Tank Filter, 5 to 20 Gallons, 110v, A595
We found 77 Reddit comments about Aqua Clear, Fish Tank Filter, 5 to 20 Gallons, 110v, A595. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Aquarium refiltration system that offers superior contact time with filter media and energy efficient pump lowers operating costsQuick and easy installation, we recommend that you clean aquarium filter every two weeks for maximum operation and efficiencyProvides optimal mechanical, chemical, and biological filtrationsComes equipped with AquaClear Foam, Activated Carbon Filter and BioMax and Cycle Guard for superior water qualityFiltration volume is up to 7 times larger than comparable fish tank filtersLifetime warranty; ideal for aquariums up to 20 gallons
5.5 gallon tank from petco - 12 dollars (or if you can go today 10 gallon for 10 dollars plus tax)
Heater - 12 to 15 dollars (I like this one but there is also this one here)
Filter - 13 dollars to 25 dollars (It may need baffled or This one though it's a bit more expensive but I prefer it just remember a filter is just something to push water through it. Also can look into sponge filters)
Substrate - 0 for bare bottom or 10 dollars for some cheap sand at petco This sand to be exact.
Light - 42 dollars This is what I'd buy but you can find cheaper or just do grow lights in little plug ins
I'd keep at least 30 for plants but you can get some cheaper live plants or maybe find some cuttings for free.
Total is 47 dollars for a proper set up not including plants since I don't know what you can do in your area. With my over priced light for your set up it's 89
Aside from thanking everyone who replied, I want to take the time to update on whats going on.
After I posted, I was leaning into purchasing a Fluval Spec V to house Fishy. 170). I started looking for other options such as buying another tank, buying at a LFS or commissioning a tank.
A reputable tank maker quoted me US$45.00 to make a 15 Gallon tank, with the following dimension 16.25''x16.25''x13.25'' (LxWxH) made with .88 mm glass or aprox 1/3''.
In turn, I would have to buy a filter, a heater and light (as well as substrate and plants). Here is what Im leaning towards, advice would be very much appreciated, as its my first tank in about 10 years:
Heater: Eheim 25 watt.
Filter: Aquaclear HOB Power Filter 20.
Light: Finnex Stingray 16'.
An acquaintance suggested I buy this filter instead:
Aquaclear Power Head + Aquaclear Powerhead Attachment.
Even suggested I fit my tank with two of those instead of the HOB filter.
Being a noob, I dont really know much about those types of filters.
For plants Im thinking something like this:
Fluval Anubias 12'.
Fluval Lizard Tail.
Substrate: Im looking forward to adding real plants in the future.
Soil - ADA Africana.
Sand - something along that color.
I already own an APC UPS, similar to this one or even the same one (i dont really remember).
Again, any tips or suggestions are welcome.
This is the one i use. I like it because I can alter the flow. Just make sure to cover the intake. I just wrapped some filter floss around it with some thread. Although, they do make specialized covers for it.
Best advice is to take your time and buy what will make you happy. You'll only spend more money in the long run if you compromise now. Luckily, not everything needs bought at once. Tank, filter, and heater are necessary purchases now. Lighting and decor can be figured out more slowly.
I can recommend what I'd get in your position.
If you're going to buy a kit, this is a good one. Personally, I like this heater, but they do sell a cheaper version. So, about $100 for the tank, heater, filter, and light.
If you want to buy the parts separately, you can get a 10 gallon tank for $10-$15 or cheaper checking craigslist. You'll also need some kind of lid to cover the tank. You can buy glass ones or some people get a piece of glass or acrylic cut to cover it. Tank + lid: $25-$30
Aquaclears are my favorite filters for my tanks, but you could use a sponge filter. You'd need an air pump for the sponge one. So, $20-$25 for a filter.
Real plants are nice, but not necessary. You can do fine with fake ones, just make sure the edges aren't sharp. If you do want plants, the Spec V light should be plenty for low light plants. If you want to buy the light separately, this or this would be fine. I've had a Nicrew one on my larger tank before and it's enough for low light plants.
Or you could just get a clamp on lamp from the store and a daylight bulb. That whole set up would be about $10.
Until you get a new set up, I would recommend water changes at least once a day, if not more. I would also strongly recommend buying a water testing kit.
I'll just link the post I made in your other thread.
Get rid of the
red-tailed sharkrainbow shark, it gets too big for your 10 gallon, and it might kill your other fish when it gets bigger. Otherwise, your tank is fine after those deaths, and you could probably add another neon tetra and ~3 pygmy corydoras if you can find them IF you upgrade your filter.
If I were you, I would replace that filter since it takes up so much space in your tank. Get an AquaClear 20, it will last you forever, and you'll never need to replace the media. Rinse off the biomax in some tank water (water you're removing during a water change OR dechlorinated tap water) and do the same with the including sponge every few weeks.
They're $24.55 on Amazon right now, and you will never need to replace the media. Keep the old filter running for a few days besides the old filter until the new filter has some bacteria growth, and remove the old one.
You do water changes right? In your other thread you said your nitrates were high. When was the last time you did a water change?
edit: Looked at the picture, that is indeed a rainbow shark, still not a good fit for the tank.
Hmm odd that the water fizzed up. Did you rinse out the tank and rinse off the carbon and decorations before putting them in? The fact that you can smell chlorine is probably a good indicator you are best of to switch to a different water conditioner. (I like Seachem Prime.) Betta's like a low flow filter so just keep an eye on the filter or even switch to a sponge filter, or filter with a sponge over the intake, etc. Remeber to test your tap water too! I will link some products I have used or similar to those I have used in the past and had success with. (It may be a good idea to compare prices at your LFS store to Amazon, as I know my local Petsmart/Petco charges a fortune for a lot of aquarium items without much selection.)
API Freshwater Test Kit (Amazon wow $19.99 right now!) or at your LFS -Don't buy the test strips.
SeaChem Prime ($4-$13 depending on size from Amazon or at your LFS. I swear by Prime.)
A thermometer is a good idea to make sure your heater does not create a major issue. I do not use this exact one but figured I would add it to the list with a link ($2)
Here I will just attach a link for a sponge filter I use in a 10 gallon (~$12). You will need some airline hosing and an air pump (tetra air pump works) if you get it, though I think it may be a little big for a 4 gallon. Also, an aquaclear is by far my favorite HOB filter if you go that route. Hopefully, your filter will workout!
Tetra Air pump (~$7)
Aquaclear 20 (110V ~$25): This may be a little big for your 4 gallon, not sure as I have the Aquaclear 50 on my 30 gallon but I will add it along just in case.
Airline Tubing (a few dollars, great to have)
Household Ammonia without surfactant (to do your fishless cycle) see link http://www.fishkeeping.co.uk/articles_51/fishless-cycling-article.htm
If you decide to go with silk aquarium plants, they have few fun options online. I would also suggest really plants as they will help reduce nitrates in the future. Some good low-tech plants would be anubias, or java fern (and some others). These can be tied to a rock or driftwood as don't need to be placed in the gravel/sand/soil itself. (A small clip-on LED for an aquarium should work
if you go this route.)
I would provide food options, but r/bettafish has done a great job!
Here are a few they have mentioned:
Ocean Nutrition Atison's Betta Food (~12)
New Life Spectrum Betta Formula (~$10)
Hikari Betta Bio-Gold (~$13)
You should be able to find frozen daphnia, and frozen brine shrimp at Petco/Petsmart, and live brine shrimp at your LFS.
Will add on later! Happy cycling and keep us posted!
Bettas can get along with a variety of community fish. Whether an individual betta does is up to the fish--they do have different personalities so while one betta may be mellow and be perfectly fine with tankmates, another may not take too kindly to other fish in his space.
There are a few things you can do to maximize your chances of success in keeping betta with tankmates.
One is to not pick any fish to go in with the betta that are very brightly coloured and/or have long, flowing fins, because the betta is likely to mistake this other fish as another male betta.
The other is to introduce the other fish first; if when putting the betta into his new home, the other fish are already there, he's more likely to just accept their existence, whereas if you try to add new fish to HIS tank once he's already settled in, he'll see them as intruders.
A good bet with bettas are corydoras catfish, in a 10g you could do dwarf or pygmy corydoras which are the smallest species. Since they're bottom-level fish, they won't really intrude much on the betta's space because most bettas are middle to top level fish. One thing to note is that if you get corys you'll also want to do sand substrate, since gravel can damage their barbels.
So here is a list of potential gear, there are a couple of options on some categories:
10 Gallon Standard Tank $10 in-store at Petco (Dollar per Gallon ends the 19th BTW)
AquaClear Hang On Back Filter $28 This is a little pricey, but it's probably the best hang on back filter on the market. It's more powerful than the other ones I've listed. Part of why it's so great is because it's very customizable, you can put your own filter media in if you want (the stuff it comes with is not bad though). Also it's really easy to clean which is a plus.
Aqueon Quietflow Internal Power Filter $14 A lot of people don't like internal filters because it's a bit messier to clean since it's fully submerged; personally I don't mind cleaning it and also because it's totally underwater I find it a lot quieter that most filters which might be a good thing if you're keeping it in your bedroom. I'd suggest not using the little cartridge it comes with and stuffing it with your own biomedia and filter floss, but it's powerful and compact.
Tetra Whisper in Tank Filter $11 This is the only filter here I don't personally own, but I believe a lot of people on /r/bettafish use this one and like it.
Glass Canopy $20 Not necessary, but I think they look nicer than a bulky plastic hood. I do suggest some kind of covering for your tank since bettas are known to jump. It could be something as simple as a big sheet of plastic canvas cut to fit, which is a couple dollars.
So technically the above gear, assuming you buy the most inexpensive filter option, comes to $41 pretax. A little over the $39.99 all in one kit you originally wanted, but you are getting twice the gallonage, and also higher-quality gear--glass tank instead of plastic, and a semi-decent filter. And again, you could go a lot cheaper on the lid if you were so inclined and either save your money or put it towards a more expensive filter.
You'll also need a heater for a betta. I think a lot of fishkeepers have their favourite brands for this kind of thing, Hydor Theo is mine, self-regulating glass heaters are way better than the plastic pad kind without regulators because it turns itself on and off automatically as needed. Also, I would recommend ALWAYS getting a heater that can be adjusted to whatever temperature you need. Treating certain illnesses require you to turn up or down the temperature so that's an invaluable feature IMO. Also the knob on this model (unlike a lot of brands I've tried) is really easy to turn so that's kind of a bonus when your hands are all wet.
It depends on you personal preferences;
I really like sponge filters and internal filters since they fit in nearly every tank. Sponge filters are cheap and really gentle, but they do make a bit of noise. Internal filters have more flow, but are (in my experience) very silent. You can easily baffle them by placing some sponge over the spray bar.
As far as equipment goes, get an AquaClear 20 (or 30) filter, an Aqueon (or other reliable brand, I've used Hydor with good luck) ADJUSTABLE heater. A thermometer. The lights you get depends on what you plan on doing with your tank. You're also going to need a water testing kit, a dechlorinator (most people will recommend Seachem Prime).
Is this going to be your first aquarium?
The Aquaclear 20 is probably the best HOB for that sized tank that I've ever found. I clean it about once a month, but I never change the sponge or bio media, just rinse them out in tank water during water changes. I also have an Aquaclear 70 (same filter but bigger) on a 40 gallon thats ~15 years old and still going strong.
Well I have this tank I didn’t pay that much but this is my tank tank tank cover and my rest of my set up that I recommend filter heater
And you need one of these no matter what tank you get api master kit
Well, the first thing we'll need to know is how much space do you have? Are you looking to fill an empty space on your night stand or are you looking to have a separate aquarium stand?
Next, we need to look at what your intent is. Are you looking to keep a few shrimp or are you trying to breed them? The breeding will happen whether you want it to or not, and without fish in there to eat all your baby shrimp you'll have a large population fairly quickly.
Once we've determined these things we can look at a few other things that might affect some minor aspects of your setup but for the sake of time we'll assume you're starting with a 10 gallon (which is a bit on the small side for a low maintenance aquarium) with an [Aquaclear 20] (http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FVG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1457001271&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=aquaclear+20) and you're doing a shrimp-only, planted tank.
We'll begin with plants: Live plants are better for shrimp and generally look better! [Here] (http://www.theshrimpfarm.com/articles/freshwater-aquarium-plants.php) are some good plants for shrimp tanks. Most of these can easily be found at any pet store.
Substrate is highly dependent on what you personally prefer. Some, like me, prefer [mineralized topsoil] (http://visual.ly/how-mineralized-soil-substrate) with a sand or gravel top layer. This is so that you don't have to dose your rooted plants with fertilizer but they'll keep their bright colors and good growth rate. Others simply put down the sand or gravel of their choice and put root tablets into the substrate so that the rooted plants get their nutrients. The disadvantage of this is that you have to replace the tablets every so often and still sometimes end up needing to fertilize.
For conditioner, the only thing you will likely need is [dechlorinator] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D5WIP4S/ref=twister_B00TQZ76JS?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1). This simply takes the chlorine out of tap water so that it won't hurt your shrimp.
The [API Freshwater Master test kit] (http://www.guppysaquariumproducts.com.au/monitoring-control/test-kits/freshwater-master-test-kit.html) is the most widely used kit on Reddit from what I've seen.
You shouldn't need to add any minerals, but your water hardness should be slightly acidic for the best results in terms of color and health.
You can find these links in the sidebar as well, but [this] (http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/Tropical_Fish-A_Beginners_Guide.pdf) is a beginner's guide to tropical fish keeping, [Aqadvisor] (http://aqadvisor.com/) is a website that can calculate how fully stocked your tank is based on the size of your tank and filtering capabilities, and [here] (http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Lighting.html) is a guide to understanding lighting.
Finally, [this] (http://aquariuminfo.org/rcs.html) is a helpful guide on red cherry shrimp overall. You NEED to wait for your tank to be [fully cycled] (http://www.fishkeeping.co.uk/articles_51/fishless-cycling-article.htm) to add shrimp, but not to add any plants which means you can go ahead and plant any plants you want while it's cycling and they can get established while you wait. If you go with the tank size and filter I used as the example, you will easily be able to house 50+ shrimp according to Aqadvisor. For your plants, I recommend going low-tech, which means using plants that don't require a lot of lighting and not using any CO2.
Honestly I wouldn't bother with a kit. They are usually not that great.
Get a 5 or 10 gallon tank from wherever, walmart, petco, etc. 5-10 gallon tanks don't get much better unless you want to go with a high dollar tank with built in filters etc. You do want a hood. A clear glass hood is best as you can grow plants if you want later. If it fits your budget and you have room, a 20 Long is an amazing assed tank. Petco/Petsmart sells them for $34.
Next, get an Aquaclear 20 . They are perfect for a 5-20 gallon tank and won't be too much for your betta. you can adjust the flow rate so it will work. Aquaclear is the best I've used as it's dead silent and most importantly uses real bio media. You don't need to buy stupid expensive disposable filters. Disposable filters are horrible as you throw away most of your beneficial bacteria when you change cartridges. Aquaclear has a rinsable sponge which should be able to be used for a decade.
You'll need a heater. Get one that matches the size of tank.
I highly recommend doing a planted tank. It adds a lot to the tank and your fish will like the plants. I suggest doing a dirt capped tank. Look at this. Don't worry about "mineralizing" if you hear people talk about this as it's pointless IMO. If you do this method, be sure to get some frogbit or water spangles (check /r/AquaSwap ) to keep water parameters in effect. Frogbit eats extra nutrients, without this algae can be a problem. I capped my dirt with black diamond blasting sand (available at Tractor Supply), but pool filter sand (well rinsed) works great too. A Walstad type tank makes plants thrive, and the soil releases a little bit of tannins which bettas love. The tannins aren't extreme, you'll not notice them as far as water clarity goes.
EDIT: Thought I'd add, the next tank I do will be a HMF (Hamburg Mattenfilter). They are very elegant in their simplicity and not even possible to harm a fish with. You can hide heaters in the filter chamber, a corner HMF basically disappears, plus I'll grow plants in front of it so it will be practically invisible.
Aquaclear filter! You can adjust the flow and it comes with a filter sponge and biomedia so you don't have to get anything else.
Edit: here it is
Go for a 10 gallon. Get a decent heater, I like this one, http://www.petmountain.com/product/aquarium-heaters/11442-526438/viaaqua-quartz-heaters.html
The 50 watt should be fine.
As for a filter, get this, http://amzn.com/B000260FVG
And put this inside the filter to reduce nitrates and to get the clearest water you will ever see. Look at the reviews, http://amzn.com/B0002A5VK2
As for a thermometer, http://amzn.com/B005FWNXDO
I have the same thing ad trust it inside my saltwater tank and the battery has yet to run out for about 2 months. Gravel is your choice an depends on the look you want for your tank. I personally like sand in white, black, or in natural sand color. The white really brightens up your tank. You should probably get a few easy lowlight plants like java fern, a moss ball, and java moss. Fishless cycling is highly recommended and this is a pretty good test kit, http://amzn.com/B000255NCI
It lasts a while. When starting the cycle, use fish food in a mesh bag or a piece of deli shrimp. It will produce ammonia. At this point start testing for ammonia and nitrites. Web the ammonia goes down, start testing nitrItes and nitrAtes. When nitrites go to 0, test everything for 2 days and do a water change to bring nitrAtes down. Your tank is ready for fish when you have 0 ammonia, 0 nitrItes and under 40 ppm of nitrAtes. Don't use any cycling products your LFS recommends. Most of them don't work. As for stocking, you can do a male Betta with an amano or bamboo shrimp, or a male Betta with a few pygymi cories. As for algae, 2 nerite snails should do the trick. Don't get a pleco. Most LFS's will tell you that they will keep your tank clean. They grow to over a food and I've seen this happen many times. They are also pooping machines. A clown pleco is possible if your tank has drift wood. Have a weekly water change schedule of 20%. Good luck!
An [Aquaclear] (http://www.amazon.ca/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Includes/dp/B000260FVG) is always a great choice, and although it's pricey it'll last a long time. Make sure to set the water output to low as bettas don't like strong current.
For the light this one looks pretty good for a clip on Lominie Asta 20 Freshwater.
For the filter I will always recommend aquaclear for HOB, the aquaclear 20 would be a good fit.
I hear GREAT things about this filter.
I don't have any canister filters -- mine are all HOB (Hang On Back), and my favorite brand by far is Aquaclear. Their smallest is this 20 gallon filter. I like it because it is extremely simple to assemble and clean, and if you're looking to have a planted tank, you can leave out the carbon packet entirely (if you choose). Plus, it's clear acrylic so you can see what's going on in there (and if any fish happen to have swum into it!)
I have upgraded from my standard hoods with crappy lights to glass canopies with Marineland double-bright LEDS. I do NOT recommend having the glass top shipped to you -- they are available at PetSmarts and some Petcos, and are relatively inexpensive. Paired with the LED lights, the effect is just stunning compared with standard fluorescent lighting.
I have these lights on a 20g and 29g and they grow plants quite well (mostly low-light plants). In a 10g, they will be even more effective because you're not trying to get the light to reach into such a deep tank.
One more thing I'd recommend that hasn't been mentioned yet is your substrate. I strongly recommend Eco-Complete planted substrate. It's like potting soil especially for planted aquariums. I don't have to rinse it at all (like another one you'll find in stores called Flourite), and plants love it. You can cap it with sand or gravel, or just plant straight into it.
The great thing about a 10g tank is that it doesn't cost very much to "furnish" it. The challenge is that there is less margin for error, and you'll want to keep a close eye on your water quality as you introduce fish and get things stabilized.
And one last thing, since you're a beginner and I swore I would try to help others avoid my mistakes: DON'T BUY THE PLANTS IN THE PLASTIC TUBES!! There are a few exceptions to this, but you need to know that most of the plants you find in the plastic tubes at Petco or Petsmart or elsewhere are not truly aquatic plants. They will rot away in your tank in a matter of weeks and you will feel like you have done something wrong. Bamboo and dracaena are also NOT aquatic plants (even though they are all over the place in pet store aquariums) and will rot eventually.
When you're ready for plants, come back for ideas and recommendations and plan to do lots of homework if you don't want to lost money killing plants. :-) (Speaking from LOTS of experience on that one...)
Do you wash the charcoal when you renew it? And do you have anything in your filter other than charcoal? I recommend a sponge so the waste can be absorbed. Squeeze that thing out into the sink once a week and you should be golden.
Ps: this is the absolute best filter I’ve ever owned. it kicks ass.
This is a good place to start. There are lots of good beginner plants that are hard to kill and don't need a lot of light or special requirements. Annubia, java fern and java moss are the sort of 'go to' beginner plants. Bettas also like shade, so maybe look into some floaters like amazon frogbit or salvinia (not sure I spelled that right). I also enjoy water sprite and cabomba (again not sure of spelling) for stuff to grow taller in the background.
If you keep things simple, you won't need a special substrate. A lot of the beginner plants take in nutrients from the water column, so they don't need any special soils or substrate to grow. In fact, many of them don't need to be rooted down at all, you can just glue them to rocks to keep them in place.
>How should I plant them?
Taller plants toward the back. Do research on plants you intend to get, some do feed from the substrate primarily and might need root tabs for healthy growth.
>How long in advance to plant, how to cycle a tank?
So, plant them when you start up your tank. No need to cycle, just toss them in dechlorinated water.
As far as how to cycle, this is a decent guide for a fishless cycle. You're going to need a way to test your water through this, the best bet is an API master test kit. The best prices are online if you've got time to wait for shipping. A little pricier than the test strips, but they're more accurate and last way longer, so it makes up for the price.
Personally I use sponge filters, they're super gentle and have a stupid amount of room for your bacteria to grow. They're super cheap, I got 2 for less than 10 dollars (plus shipping), but they do need an air pump to run them. You'll also want some check valves and a way to restrict the air flow - they make little inlets that have flow valves to control the air for cheap.
Alternatively, I've heard great things about the aqua clear 20 filter. It's got an adjustable flow so you can slow it down to suit your tank, and does a better job than sponge filters for water clarity. Also pretty cheap, and you won't need to buy the air pump.
>What to do with empty tank?
Make it a shrimp tank!
You could be over feeding that’s a big cause of it so the best way to feed them that I find is to give them as much as they will eat in ten minutes. And this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hagen-A595-AquaClear-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FVG is the best filter I can find for a 20 gallon
Otocinclus Catfish are small algae eating armored catfish that get about 2 inches long. They are shy, peaceful fish that eat algae. You can compare them to a dwarf pleco pretty much.
There is no need to QT plants and I'm not sure what you mean by which way the stems will grow out from. The only thing I can think of is that you're asking which way you should plant the seeds? Plants always grow towards the light, so you should have no problems there. I would recommend starting with plants that are already grown though. This way, even if you have low lighting, they'll be a decent size and you won't have to wait ages for them to grow.
I see you have new questions! Here we go:
My betta is in an aqueon 5 gallon tank with an Aquaclear 20 filter and an Eheim Jager 25W heater. Water parameters at perfect 0/0/<5.
I also have a Finnex Planted+ clip-on light, but unless you're growing live plants, it might be too much light.
Is there a brand name on that filter anywhere? If there is you can look it up and find the manual.
I know this isn't necessarily your HOB, but see how it has a sponge on the bottom, then a mesh bag, and then some type of ceramic media? You can do something similar or may variations. I use a sponge and a type of media I put in my own mesh bags, both of which don't get changed out really, just rinsed a few times a year in old tank water as needed. Then I use a supplemental nitrate removing sponge that gets tossed as it "fills up" with Nitrates (highly technical explanation I know haha).
Pretty sure aquaclear was either always owned by hagen, or was purchased by them in the last 2 years or so. That was around the time the Aquaclear brand started to be replaced with the Fluval brand. All the power filters are identical to the old aquaclear ones, they just say fluval on the top now. All the sponges, carbon, zeolite, etc packs are all compatible with the old aquaclear filter.
aquaclear 20 vs fluval 30
Otherwise, yeah, if they don't carry any of that in store anymore, you can either go to petco, who still carries them, or make your own. They should still sell cut-to-fit sponge and as long as you have a filter sock and access to loose media, you can always make your own replacement cartridges for much less money.
But I think u/BetterButterflies is onto something. This is one of the easiest filters to customize and use your own media in. Less profitable overall to the retailer, since they aren't selling, say Tetra or Aqueon's proprietary filters every month.
A little pricy but very good reviews, very customizable as to what kind of media you want though and easy to clean.
AquaClear 20 Power Filter - 110 V, UL Listed (Includes AquaClear 20 Carbon, AquaClear 20 Foam & AquaClear 20 BioMax) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FVG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_czfaAbPX4DE5X
AquaClear20. For a small filter, there's a good amount of room for growing plants out of it.
He's a beauty! Good for you for seeking out help on providing for him. When bettas have big, warm, healthy environments they become very active and interesting fish. 5 gallons are generally the recommended minimum for bettas, and an ideal temperature is 78-80F / 25.5-26.5C. Lighting isn't really a big deal, but bettas really love swimming through dense live plants, so if you get some live plants you'll need some better lighting for the plants (I recommend anubias or java fern, easy beginner low-light plants.)
You will definitely need a filter, but in the meantime, make sure to do frequent water changes because ammonia builds up fast in a new tank that isn't cycled. You may have heard of something called "new tank syndrome" which means a tank hasn't established a nitrogen cycle, and there's no bacteria in the tank to eat ammonia. This will establish eventually, but if this is a brand new tank, you have to keep the water fresh and clean, otherwise he will poison himself with his own waste. I highly recommend Aquaclear hang-on filters although they might be a little big for a 5 gallon. Make sure filter intakes are always covered with sponges, bettas are slow swimmers with delicate fins that can be ripped off by filter intakes, and that filters are always on the lowest setting. Also, bettas can be jumpy - keep a lid on the tank if possible.
Also keep in mind bettas are carnivores, so make sure any food you get is made for bettas, or just get freeze dried bloodworms or brine shrimp. If you really want to spoil him, you can get frozen food to thaw out and feed him. Dehydrated and pelleted foods can sometimes cause bloating and constipation. Make sure you don't overfeed! Fish don't need to be fed every single day, and only need a little bit of food.
Keep an eye out for any changes in appearance and behavior, and don't be afraid to ask if you think something's wrong, there's a lot of common ailments that are treatable if you can catch and identify them soon enough.
I like the Aquaclear 20 a lot. It moves a lot of water, you can customize the media (like adding more biomedia, Purigen instead of carbon, etc), can easily adjust flow, and is VERY quiet. I've used the Whispers and they're alright, but tended to blow my biggest betta around. It is possible to baffle it with a cut water bottle (google it) but I prefer the Aquaclear hands down.
Heater: Eheim 50w (adjustable), Cobalt 50w (also adjustable, and looks sleek). A lot of people like the Hydor heaters as well.
Thermometer: the Marina one. Strips tend to not be as accurate.
I didn't use that power 10 for more than a few minutes because I saw how much he struggled with it. I purchased an Aquaclear 20 and the video is showing it on its lowest setting. He was fine on the left side of the tank, but I still wanted it a little calmer for him. I moved the tall plant from the left side to where the water pours in and that seems to have solved any issue that he had. Also, filling the tank up closer to the rim improved it even further. I will post another video once I get home tonight.
I have this aquaclear filter. When I get RCS, should I use this trick? Or is there not much of a danger of them getting in such a small filter?
While we're talking about aquaclear fiters, (sorry to hijack a bit)
How often do I need to replace the filter media? The official instructions say basically once a month or so, that seems a bit often to me.
That's just the tank, though - the filter, light, and heater are what's gonna eat up your budget.
Here's the heater I have for my 5-gallons, both going strong for two years now.
This is the filter I plan on getting for my 10-gallon although I am not sure how rough that current will be on a betta yet.
And this is the light I will get, but this is a really nice light for a low-tech (no injected co2), low-light planted tank. There are plenty of good, cheaper lights out there.
TL;DR: For a betta you need to upgrade your setup to have a filter, and a minimum 5 gallon tank but preferably 10 gallon. I highly recommend you buy [this filter] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000260FVG/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500346286&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=fluval%2Bfilter&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1).
1 gallon is not okay for any fish. Maybe plants. You need to read up about the nitrogen cycle, and why cycling an aquarium is necessary in order to keep water quality good. The water will build up good bacteria to counter the bad bacteria. But if you're doing 100% water changes, you are physically preventing your tank from cycling and building up any good bacteria. You really need a bigger tank (at least 5 gal but preferably 10), and you need a filter! The constant movement of the water is the filters main function, and that's what allows for good bacteria to build up. I'm sure your water parameters weren't 0/0/0 before the water change. Maybe that's what it reads after the water change, but next time check your parameters before the water change because I guarantee you that you have ammonia building up.
It's a myth that betta's are completely fine without a filter or a normal size tank. They will live a much longer life if you take better care of them. The myth comes from the fact that Betta's have an organ that other fish don't, which allows them to breathe oxygen by coming up to the surface and not having to depend on their gills alone for oxygen. This allows them to be able to tolerate worse quality water, but that doesn't mean you should subject them to worse quality water throughout the course of their life! Please improve your setup. At the absolute minimum: never do 100% water changes, 80% should be the absolute max used only for emergencies, buy a filter and you should be able to get by with 50% water changes until your tank is cycled, at which point you should aim to get down to 10-20% water changes once a week, and then down to 10-20% to once every other week.
Water test kit
And then you can get the aquarium (10g) at Petco
I strongly recommend live plants: Java ferns, anubius, Marimo Moss Balls, bacopa, cryptocoryne, Valisnaria, hygrophila, easy low light plants. Malaysian, Spider (not sharp), Mopani, and manzanita are all good types of drift wood for a betta aquariums
Here is the mobile version of your link
I would just get something small like this:
It's this one
There are a few things I've done. You can see it all in this album http://imgur.com/a/2A39r
I wanted to grow plants in the aquarium, but their little LEDs were pretty awful, and since the LEDs are submerged, they'll grow algae directly on them and get a greenish ugly hue. I replaced both the light and filter. I also needed to be able to hook a timer up to it, which their filter/light combo wouldn't allow me to do.
Here's the Fluval Chi lid that I have. I had to cut out a portion on the side to fit the filter in. It's TERRIBLE to cut though, I had to use a saw and just saw through the thing. It took me like an hour and a half of frustration to do, but it was worth it.
This is the filter I'm using: http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Includes/dp/B000260FVG/ The Aquaclear 20. I bought a prefilter sponge to go on it, which is useful for protecting the smaller critters of the aquarium. If you aren't interested in upgrading the lighting, you could just get this and slap it on the side most likely, then put the filter/light box that comes with it on a timer or something.
The work light is just a standard work light which can be found at Wal Mart or any home improvement store. I used aquarium silicon to adhere it to the plastic lid. The bulb is a 13 watt 6500k color temperature compact fluorescent bulb, which also came from Wal Mart.
The plants love this setup, and the water is always extremely clear and well-filtered. It ends up becoming a bigger investment than it should with the base price of the aquarium, but it turns out looking really awesome once it's all done. In the end, you get a well-filtered aquarium with medium lighting that works on a timer, as opposed to Fluval's setup which evaporates water at a crazy fast pace and gooks up pretty quickly.
I recommend upgrading your filter. Those whisper filters are pretty crappy IMO mostly due to the cartridge system they use. Pretty much everyone loves aquaclear filters and I'm a fan of my C2.
Unless your Ph is crazy high (8+) I wouldn't mess with it. A stable Ph is more important than a "proper" Ph in most cases.
I don't know the type of filter, it came in this kit. Any reccomendations would be appreciated. Kairus00 recommended this
I'll have to let my girlfriend know I was right in regards to the plant. She'll looove that. ;)
And yes, Walmart is as bad as you hear, I do try to avoid it. Be happy you don't have them, they're a black hole on many levels.
Poor guy, I feel bad. At least I didn't kill him before I found out what I was doing wrong.
this is mine works great, little on the pricier side, can get them as cheap as 10 bucks on amazon. any 10 gallon filter really. walstad is an awesome concept, just tricky getting to a stable spot
As some others have said, that plant is Anubias. That hairy stuff is algae and the brown crud looks like diatoms which is common in new tanks. The "suckerfish" (on the underside of that leaf) you have looks to be some sort of plecostomas which don't eat really anything but certain types of green algae. They aren't algae scrubbers like the old school of thought suggests. I would suggest getting some nerite snails. They cannot breed in fresh water so you won't have explosion of them.
Also, as others have said, get a timer and start keeping your lights on a schedule. Start at 8 hours on and the rest off. You can set it to be whenever you like if you want to enjoy it so you could start it at Noon and push it to 8 pm or however you like. That will help the plants "out compete" the algae.
Finally, get a filter. I have an Aquaclear filter with a pre-filter sponge to keep shrimp out of it. This will also help disturb the surface to keep surface bacteria managed and increase gas exchange at the surface ensuring you have enough oxygen.
Way to go with the upgrade! I'd go with the Aquaclear 20 and the EHEIM Jager heater. The heater my be a slight bit more than others but it's not going to fall apart in a year and need to be replaced. Cobalt Neo-Therm is by far my favorite heater is more expensive but so easy to set an looks much better in the tank.
Edit: Also wanted to add that you should save any filter media from your 2.5 tank to add to the new filter. This will help you get you new tank cycled a bit faster.
wow that looks so clean! you might have just changed my mind lol
do you have any filters or lights in mind to go with it? amazon recommends https://www.amazon.com/Finnex-FugeRay-Aquarium-Moonlights-Cliplight/dp/B00LIL7YPE/ref=pd_bxgy_121_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00LIL7YPE&amp;pd_rd_r=2KZ9F8JF4YE057DP8TPJ&amp;pd_rd_w=eCyLL&amp;pd_rd_wg=se06G&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=2KZ9F8JF4YE057DP8TPJ and https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FVG/ref=pd_bxgy_121_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B000260FVG&amp;pd_rd_r=2KZ9F8JF4YE057DP8TPJ&amp;pd_rd_w=eCyLL&amp;pd_rd_wg=se06G&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=2KZ9F8JF4YE057DP8TPJ
The cheapest way to do things is much more reliant on Amazon than Petsmart or Petco.
Substrate: Pool Filter Sand from a pool supply store. You can get 20-40lbs of this for under $10 compared to roughly $1 for 1lb that pet store gravel/sand costs. It's also prewashed, which is nice. You can go with a special planted substrate, but for the most part you can get the same benefits by just dosing ferts or using root tabs. The one exception is if you are willing to spend more to get a clay based substrate like ADA Aquasoil or Fluval Stratum, which are much more expensive (the cheap alternative to that is to use the Walstad method of using dirt on the bottom and capping it with sand). A sand layer should be about 3" max. More than that and you could start developing anaerobic pockets.
Filtration: Air Pump Sponge Filters. I'd recommend getting two of these and placing one on each side but you can get by with one. I recommend the Walmart Aqua Culture 60 Gallon Air Pump to run them. It only costs $11 and surprisingly this Wal-Mart brand pump is the quietest air pump I've ever used -- much quieter than anything else I've tried. However you can go with any air pump you can find at Petco or Petsmart but they will cost more. You can rinse sponge filters out with old aquarium water when you do a water change, which saves you money in the long run vs. buying cartridges for a hang-on-back box style filter. However if you want to go with a box filter, I'd recommend AquaClear. They may be available at Petco or Petsmart, but likely at a higher price than amazon.
Heater: Aquatop Heaters from Amazon. For a 10G you only need the 50W, but for only $1.50 more you might as well get the 200W version so that if you ever upgrade you don't have to buy another. Since this line of heater has adjustable temperature and will turn off when the water is heated, it doesn't matter if you overbuy on heating. You can get other brands at Petco or Petsmart, but you'll probably be paying more for less.
Lighting: If you are going low tech, you should probably just buy a tank that comes with a hood and light (but avoid the full kit that comes filter/heater/etc. because you can get all of that cheaper separately). Hoods with matching lighting are really hard to get after the fact. If you go high tech, this sort of lighting is inadequate so you'd want to go a different route.
I was hoping Ny bc I would've taken him from you and put him in my hospital tank.
A vase is not a tank and a filter is recommended bc a tank needs to be cycled.Cycling is when it can sustain the nitrogen cycle using bacteria that lives inside your tank and your filter. Having a suitable tank, gravel and filter allows the tank to provide a stable environment for your fish.
The setup I recommend is
a 5.5 gallon tank from your local petstore. Petsmart or petco usually has them. If you can get a bigger one then I would suggest that.
The filter i recommend is either an aqua clear hang on back filter like this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FVG/ref=twister_B00MO35VD2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
or a Im pretty fond of these filters also, http://www.amazon.com/Penn-Cascade-Internal-Filter-Aquariums/dp/B0002DJLEQ/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450977072&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=penn+plax
Get a filter that is rated for a tank 1-2 times the size of the tank you would purchase.
I can't recommend a low cost heater but I do recommend you get one and also a thermometer.
Pick up a bag of gravel and maybe a little decorative house also for your fish to hang around and swim in. Providing a stimulating environment for your fish will combat him being "lazy."
I also suggest you read up on the nitrogen cycle and pick up a test kit so the next time you have an issue with your fish, you can tell anyone what the ammonia, nitrate or nitrite levels are in the tank. You can find out what those are from reading about the nitrogen cycle. I suggest this http://www.amazon.com/API-Freshwater-Master-Test-Kit/dp/B000255NCI/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450977370&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=aquarium+test+kit
Read more about properly taking care of you betta and you will see less of these problems and have happier fish. Feel free to ask any questions
I think you did okay, but I personally just rinse a tank with diluted bleach, thoroughly rinse then air dry the tank upside down in a dry place for over 24 hours. This ensures all the bleach has fully evaporated before I use it. If it had calcium build up, I'd use vinegar, baking soda and pillow stuffing to scrub it off (harder stains I usually get a paint scraper to get off and get the smaller stains with my homemade cleaner).
Aquaclear filter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FVG/ref=twister_B00MO35VD2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I love these filters. They're beginner friendly, decent price and adjustable flow-- my betta loves his. I recommend just using pillow stuffing (ensure it's not the kind that is fire proof since that has harmful chemicals). Give it monthly, harsh shakes in old filter water to get junk out and put it back in the filter to keep nitrates down in your filter (of course along with weekly water changes). I picked up the pillow stuffing trick from a guy in the hobby for over 40 years. I've been using pillow stuffing for a few months and it's been going great so far :D
I'm going to look into getting a prefilter sponge for the one i have and maybe order this filter as i found it highly recommended an a few other sites. Figure he could live with the kit one for a few days. Think I may get at least 1 live plant as well, being a 5 gallon I dont have much room to work with, so it shouldnt be too hard to manage, Thanks!
Setting up a saltwater aquarium is going to depend primarily on your budget and your space. These things will dictate what sort of filtration methodology you have to use. Filtration is the most important part of your aquarium! It comes in many different flavours, but the big three are biological, mechanical, and chemical. Your 'filtration method' is determined by how heavily you lean on each of these aspects. There are a bunch of different schools of thought and I would recommend reading up on as many of them as possible. Here is an excellent short article to get you started.
New tanks need to establish beneficial bacterial communities in order to process the waste being produced by your fish. In the jargon, this is called 'cycling', in reference to the nitrogen cycle. You can find more information on that in the sidebar (to the right) here on /r/Aquariums. Establishing this bacterial community ('cycling the tank') is crucial before you add any animals to the tank in order to avoid harm. It takes some time (up to several weeks or more) so be warned that patience is a virtue when it comes to aquariums.
To oversimplify it, starting a saltwater tank is as simple as putting sand and live rock in saltwater and letting it cycle. But why it's that simple is extremely complicated. I would suggest reading more on aquarium filtration and go from there, then throw some more questions at us. For homework! Look at the components sold in a standard commercial hang-on filter and figure out what each one is doing.
AquaClears are some of the nicest HOB filters. They don't use filter pads, but are set up more like a canister filter. Adjustable flow, so you can slow it down if it's too much.
Edit: Just my preference. I tried one of those internal filters, but I didn't like having it take up space in my already small tank.
Oh, by all means if you can afford it then it is the right choice. I would buy it too haha.
About the filter, I think you should get an aquaclear 20 instead of the whisper http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Includes/dp/B000260FVG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1417926609&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=aquaclear+20
As you can see, it has a higher flow rate and a lot more mechanical as well as biological filtration. You don't have to buy and replace filter cartridges.
I'm using the
Tetra Whisper PF10 Filter and it's absolutely silent.
I was recommended this AquaClear one also! In hindsight, the clear would have looked a lot better.
First you want an aquarium. I suggest a 20 gal (long if possible). Craigslist.com can be a good resource. I managed to find a good deal on a pair of 30 gal tanks. I paid $40 for the pair so hopefully you can find a 20 gallon for close to $20. It takes some patience waiting for a deal like that to pop up. You likely will end up spending closer to $40 for a 20 gallon.
You don't need a heater right away but you can pick up a 100watt heater for $10 on Amazon.
Next you'll want filter. I suggest a "Hang On Back" filter. This one is about $23.
So my estimate puts you near $75. Put the rest of your budget towards lights, water test kits, substrate, plants, and fish.
Sand is pretty easy tbh. You shouldn’t have to worry about it blowing around, a betta tank shouldn’t have that strong of a flow. Sponge filter is the easiest option. If you want a HOB filter, put foam around the intake for a [mechanical prefilter and betta fin guard](LTWHOME Pre-Filter Sponge/Foam Set For Fluval Edge Aquarium (Pack Of 12) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5Z44OE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aIsNBbGW56V4D)
Just get a HOB rated at 10g or less and that has adjustable flow so you can turn it down. [Aquaclear](Aqua Clear 20 Power Filter - 110 V, UL Listed (Includes AquaClear 20 Carbon, AquaClear 20 Foam & AquaClear 20 BioMax) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FVG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RKsNBbY81XP7A) and [Azoo Mignon 150 or 360](Azoo Mignon Filter 360 Aquarium Power Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LLJ8OFW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BOsNBbVM2B6ZN)
And for this filter, would I also need an air pump? I know I sound incompetent but I promise I'm not!!! Just trying to cover all my bases!
A tetra whisper pump is near silent, taking out the worries about sound. High gas exchange is very, very important in an aquarium, it vents toxic gasses and adds oxygen into the tank. Not having a good method of airation is going to harm the fish/decrease their lifespan. Ideally you should only take 25% out between vaccuming and water changes combined, usually doing both at the same time once a week to not disturb the bacteria in the gravel too badly. Unfortunately bio wheels are a gimmick with only margianally better performance than normal cartridge based filters, and are also more of a new fishkeeper trap than anything, why you don't see experienced fishkeepers use them.
Imo an aquaclear a size up from your tank size (eg 10 gal tank get an aq 20) is the best option for a beginner, and has the best price to performance ratio https://www.amazon.com/Aqua-Clear-Power-Filter-AquaClear/dp/B000260FVG?keywords=aquaclear%2Bfilter&amp;qid=1535933485&amp;sr=8-3&amp;ref=mp_s_a_1_3&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1 , unless you want to go into sponge filters, which are perfectly fine if properly sized (size up) and the bio load for the tank is low.
Thanks for all the information. I will look for an external canister. You're right about it being a hang-on-back filter, for the record it's this one: https://www.amazon.ca/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FVG
Aqua Clear - Fish Tank Filter - 5 to 20 Gallons - 110v https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FVG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dJ6YCbM4JBRTJ
Hey this isn't. ...THE bamabass is it ?
Question though I just started a 10g it's been running for about a week initially I put the start zyme in it, yesterday I upgraded to a new filter and today my buddy gave me a 16oz bottle of his trap water ( cant remember the correct terminology for it ) all dark brown good nutrients... he says I can start adding afew fish pretty much the next day since my filter has the good good in it now lol is that true or should I wait
AquaClear 20 Power Filter - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FVG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YO55Bb855P1A0
It probably is a translation error from the manufacturer. If you have ever read their manuals, it can get pretty funny with the translations. I would recommend looking for something that has a 20 gph rate max for a tank that small. Perhaps a HOB would be better. My smallest tank of all time was a 5 and I ran this on it. http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FVG/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458025569&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=aquaclear+20 . Hope this might give you an idea!
Had the same tank a few years ago and the filter it comes with is realy shit...
I have choosen this one and was realy happy with it! Good power and easy to clean or to stock with other materials.
AquaClear 20 Power Filter https://www.amazon.de/dp/B000260FVG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_z3gEzb9DD6XDR
My dad also has one of these for his tank, also happy with it.
Edit: and this one is nearly noisless i found.
Media is the stuffthat is inside the filter, most filters have cartridges that need to be replaced, but replacing them will kill your cycle and harm your fish, maybe even kill them. Try to get this https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FVG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1517896693&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=aquaclear+mini
When you need to clean it just squeeze out the spong in tank water and replace it.
This filter will filter up to 100 gph, which covers the minimum requirement of 10x the tank capacity (if you turn it all the way up and make sure it is never clogged) and is cheap. I use Aquaclear filters in both of my tanks and love them. Do not use the carbon insert unless you need to remove medication from the water. Instead get another little sack of biomedia to put in there for the beneficial bacteria to live in.
That said, please get your fish a larger tank with proper filtration as soon as possible.
I'm sure I'll get something better. I've heard lots of positive about this one
Replace the carbon with Purigen and you're good to go.
I have the first two filters. I would not recommend either. The sponge filter is not big enough to fit an air stone inside, which is a must, and the tetra filter just was too loud and had bubbles continuously flowing out the top. I would look into these two:
First and foremost, read up on the aquarium cycle. You will want to do a fishless cycle with pure ammonia before adding fish. You'll also want to pick up a good test kit so you can keep track of your water quality. To figure out your stocking and filtration, you can use this tool, which is a great starting point for new aquarists.
I wouldn't recommend going smaller than a 10 gallon for a first tank; the smaller the tank the more difficult maintenance can be. I really like the Mr. Aqua 12 gallon long rimless aquarium but any standard 10 gallon will work. For a filter, I definitely recommend the Aquaclear 20. You will also need a small 50w heater. I do not recommend the 10 gallon "starter kits" that you'll see in pet stores, as they come with substandard filtration and poor quality lights.
You might want to consider a Walstad-style planted tank for your setup. It has two main advantages: low maintenance and low startup cost. It allows you to have plants which keep water quality as high as possible, while making it unnecessary to dose fertilizers. I recommend Anubias, Valisneria, Sword & Crypt plants and mosses. These are all slow-growing low-light plants that will thrive without intervention and won't take a lot of trimming.
As for species, a few small schooling fish such as Ember Tetras or Chili Rasboras are low maintenance and look amazing. I'm also very partial to Red Cherry Shrimp as they are zero maintenance in an established aquarium, and are always doing something interesting.
I have this on my 10 gallon planted beta tank and like it a lot. if you want a hang on back this is supposed to be the best
here is one. I have prime so I try and use amazon as much as I can. The set-up is pretty easy and I just take out that carbon filter as I don't have to treat the fish. Make sure you pour some water in the filter before you start it up.
To get the flow really low, I turn the filter flow adjustment clockwise (it's shown on the cover) and then lift it up a little bit so the suction is a bit less. You'll see how it works when you get the filter.
Make sure you cycle! (Though I'm sure you already knew that).
Thanks! I forgot to mention how much I love serpae tetra as well and hope to include them.
Any suggestions for a hood? This Marineland LED has some questionable reviews but I'm having trouble finding suitable alternatives.
Looks like the Aquaclear HOB would be a little large for the hole in that particular hood (6.5" pre-cut hole and the filter says 7") but I'm not afraid to cut it to make it larger. I suppose if I get a submersible heater there's no other equipment that would require additional holes hole to be cut into the hood, right?
Any heater preferences?:
I am new with all this, but i do recommend this filter for your temp 10g http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000260FVG/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i03 it's cheap to maintain also. It keeps my tank clean and runs quiet.