Reddit Reddit reviews AstroAI Digital Multimeter with Ohm Volt Amp and Diode Voltage Tester Meter (Dual Fused for Anti-Burn)

We found 41 Reddit comments about AstroAI Digital Multimeter with Ohm Volt Amp and Diode Voltage Tester Meter (Dual Fused for Anti-Burn). Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Tools & Home Improvement
Electrical Equipment
Electrical Testers
Multi Testers
AstroAI Digital Multimeter with Ohm Volt Amp and Diode Voltage Tester Meter (Dual Fused for Anti-Burn)
ACCURATELY MEASURES: AC/DC Voltage, DC Current (Not AC Current), Resistance, Continuity, Diodes and moreTROUBLESHOOTS SAFELY: Automotive and household electrical problems safely and accurately; Overload protection on all rangesEASE OF USE: Data hold and large digital display with backlit LCD for visibility in dimly light areas; Sampling speed: 2x per second1 Year Warranty. Built-in kickstand for hands-free use. Protective rubber corner guards for drop protectionNOTE: This meter can not test AC Current; Ensure your multimeter is set to the correct setting before testing
Check price on Amazon

41 Reddit comments about AstroAI Digital Multimeter with Ohm Volt Amp and Diode Voltage Tester Meter (Dual Fused for Anti-Burn):

u/jchamb2010 · 10 pointsr/homeautomation

To add to this:

Do *NOT* under any circumstances rely on a no-contact tester to tell you that a wire is safe to touch. They are good for helping you make a determination between two wires as described above, but they can and do give false readings in both directions.


The voltage reading off a good multimeter (with contact probes) should be used to be certain that a circuit is indeed turned off. Make sure you get one with a separate current lead socket (usually this means they have 3 holes at the bottom of the meter) this will save you from blowing up your meter if you accidentally switch to current sensing while connected to high voltage (been there, done that, its not pleasant avoid the headache)


There are a wide variety of multimeters available in all price ranges, but here's a very inexpensive one on Amazon that should work OK for this use case. It might not be 100% accurate, but I'm sure it'll be able to tell you if there's 120v or not :) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ISAMUA6

u/amaraNT2oo2 · 7 pointsr/EngineeringStudents

Nice - you'll be glad to have that variety of tips, depending on what you are working on! If you have any spare Christmas money, I'd recommend picking up one of these self-adjusting wire strippers - it sort of matches your color scheme too! And if you do a lot of de-soldering (anything with lots of headers or through-hole IC sockets), a desoldering iron can save a ton of time compared to your solder wick and desoldering pump.

A few other things that I've found useful (mostly repairing electronic keyboards / synthesizers, although I'm hoping to get more into Arduino / Pi soon):

Hakko wire cutter

Helping hand

Hemostat / Forceps

Digital multimeter with audible continuity tester

u/kaihatsusha · 7 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Dude, the whole fucking point of a Raspberry Pi is to LEARN things about how computers work.

There are plenty of cheap multimeters out there. Here's a cheap DMM on Amazon for ten bucks. I have seen cheaper ones at Harbor Freight and on sites like Banggood.

A DMM is only a single use item if you have zero intention of LEARNING things, which from your bitching here is a serious possibility. I completely agree with /u/WindWalkerWhoosh that you're acting incredibly entitled, and now over-the-top rude with your ingratitude.

If you don't want to LEARN about computing, you just want other internet strangers to wave their magic wands and fix something with zero diagnostic data, then go buy another Raspberry Pi and get lost.

u/umlaut · 6 pointsr/HondaElement

It wasn't the fuse, it was a short somewhere else. Removing the fuse just made it so that no electricity went through that circuit, therefore the battery wouldn't get drained. It is like turning a breaker off in your house - a whole bunch of systems will suddenly not be getting any electricity.

​

The idea is to figure out "Is power being drained out of the battery when nothing is happening?" I tested it with a very typical multimeter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ISAMUA6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I detached one side of the car battery terminals. My friend held the multimeter leads, one multimeter lead on the battery and the other on the loose wire that would normally attach to the battery terminal. When the element was off, about 0.2 amps registered as being used on the multimeter, meaning that it was using power when nothing should be happening.

There are two sets of fuses, one under the steering wheel by the pedals and one under the hood. There is a fuse puller inside one of the fuse boxes. Look in your car manual and it will show you a diagram of your fuses. While he watched the multimeter, I would detach fuses one-by-one. I would pull a fuse, yell "OUT" and he would yell "NO" if the amperage usage did not change after the fuse was pulled. Eventually I pulled as fuse called "Back Up" in the fuse diagram and that 0.2 amps went down to 0. That was our problem circuit. Luckily for me that circuit has things that are not necessary on it, so I just left the fuse out.

u/TheSwami · 6 pointsr/amateurradio

To mention some other homebrewing supplies and tools that haven't come up here:

  • Copper Clad PCB Board for Manhattan or Dead Bug or Island Pad circuit construction.
  • Perf Board for circuits involving many IC's or other 0.1"-spaced leads.
  • A Solder Sucker, for clearing solder from perf-board
  • Solder Wick, for removing solder from things that aren't plated holes.
  • A cheapie Rotary Tool, for making isolation pads, cutting boards, rounding off edges.
  • A decent multimeter - decent used to mean something in that $30-$50 range, but now even down in the sub-$20 range you're looking at plus/minus 0.5% accuracy for voltage measurements, which is good enough for most homebrew purposes. Whatever you do, get one with a continuity alarm! A $6 meter without one is a $6 waste of your money.
  • A decent Soldering Iron. I spent years thinking I was bad at soldering, turns out I was bad at buying soldering irons. A 15W radioshack fixed iron with a fat tip will do you no good. The 50W adjustable pencil linked here it solid, though many people (myself included) prefer a soldering station
  • A pair of fine need nose pliers and a flush cutter. Xuron is the name brand, but excelite or hakko or most others are fine.

u/09RaiderSFCRet · 5 pointsr/motorcycle

Get this, I promise you’ll never be sorry. And to answer your question, bike batteries do act like car batteries in that if you totally kill it, it may need to be replaced. Here’s the tender. Battery Tender (022-0186G-DL-WH) 12V 5 Amp Battery Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EDFPN1O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_sBECRHYeaVDUm

Get a multimeter like this one. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=cm_sw_r_em_tai_c_VZPFDbGK9FQ5V

And here’s a good write up about testing your bikes electrical system. https://www.louis.eu/rund-ums-motorrad/schraubertipps/elektronik

u/CW3_OR_BUST · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

It's time to buy a multimeter.


Learn how to use it!

u/DFCFennarioGarcia · 3 pointsr/Bass

Make sure they're Alkalines, I forget what the old style is called but you don't want your bass to die in the middle of the gig because you saved $1 on your battery. I get the Duracell Pro Cell packs from Amazon, they come out to $1.50 each. They're just normal Duracells but they're good quality and I like the labeling, it's easier to write the installation date on the side of the battery with a sharpie.

It's worth getting a basic multimeter or at least a tester, alkaline batteries don't die all at once, the voltage gradually sags, they read about 9.5V right out of the package and over time they'll droop to 8V, 7V, etc. I've had a lot of basses that are much punchier with full voltage and gradually lose punch and just sound kind of thin and weak until I put in a new battery again. I've had other basses that don't seem to care as much.

u/Laephis · 3 pointsr/Gameboy

As others have mentioned, you can test the battery with a multimeter, but it's only a single point in time measurement and won't necessarily predict how long you have to failure. (Can give you a clue.)

https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Digital-Multimeter-Voltage-Tester/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=voltage+tester&qid=1559320174&s=gateway&sprefix=volt&sr=8-5

As a general rule of thumb, I replace any original battery before I start a run through a GB game, just to be safe I don't lose the save half way through.

u/GotMyOrangeCrush · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ISAMUA6/

$14 multimeter.

Overall electrical troubleshooting is not super difficult. In general you’re measuring if the ground wire (the negative wire) has continuity from the headlamp socket to the vehicle chassis which is common with the negative terminal of the battery.

The ground wires on cars are bolted to the vehicle chassis. So somewhere near your headlights there are ground wires bolted to the car. If those bolted connections are loose, corroded or the wires are damaged, then the headlights won’t work.

On the positive side of the circuit it gets more complicated, but you would start by measuring both sides of the headlight fuses in the under hood fuse box and also listen to hear if the headlight relay clicks on. On many cars you can swap the low beam and high beam relays to test. Then you would check for 12 volts at the correct pin of the headlight.

u/TomokoNoKokoro · 2 pointsr/cars

You should. You never know when it'll come in handy.

This one is a whole $11 and is probably good enough for what you or I will ever use one for.

u/LastTreestar · 2 pointsr/vandwellers

Oh, they are way cheaper than that in places. And also, you can get a simple LED test light for a few bucks. Only tells if there's power, but it's often enough to do the job.

EDIT: LOL this is the el cheapo beater I got: https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Digital-Multimeter-Voltage-Tester/dp/B01ISAMUA6 It's all you need!

u/NCC1941 · 2 pointsr/ebikes

Typically, the black wire is negative and the black wire with a white stripe is positive.

However, I wouldn't want to do work like this without a multimeter ($10 on Amazon or maybe $10-$15 at Walmart), and with a multimeter, you can just directly find out which wire is positive and which is negative without any guesswork.

u/overflowing_garage · 2 pointsr/Fixxit

You don't need a super expensive multimeter to work on bikes. The $6 one from Harbor freight will work fine, but the lead are short and the wire inside is thin.

I often use the AstoAI one from Amazon that runs about $11. I picked this one because I didn't need a crazy meter and It had a decent clamshell case for it.

I combine the meter with this kit . . . super sharp / low profile meter leads are a GOD send.

As for your connectors. I've never used those personally, but the waterproof bullet insert type that have a male/female end are often found on bikes from the factory.

u/IseeNekidPeople · 2 pointsr/PLC

Remember you get what you pay for, but since you're just trying this out I found some cheap options on amazon:
Volt meter
3 position switch Keep in mind you need to make sure you match your inputs and outputs to the voltage the PLC I/O wants (120v AV or 24v DC)
Indicator light you can use as an output to turn on/off
Looks like the PLC wants 24vDC power so you'll need something like this to switch your 120 power from the wall.

u/mustfix · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I don't get a notification if you don't reply to me.

An ohm meter is typically part of a multi-meter. There's around $15. If you read near 0 ohms, that means the wire is good. A broken wire has infinite ohms (or the display remains blank).

A network toner starts at ~$20 and specifically designed to trace network cables through walls. You can also utilize the alligator clips to attach individual wires and tone the other end. If there's no tone, that means you have a broken wire.

Notice I keep saying wire. Yes, I mean each individual wire of the 4 pairs. So you'd need to trace all 8.

This is a lot of work when you can just replace the cable for pennies (if you're cutting and running from a spool).

u/Rd59 · 1 pointr/prius

-Even metric sockets/wrenches from 8-14 mm
-#2 Phillips screwdriver
-flat blade screw driver
(All above are used for removal and disassembly of the battery)
-multi-meter (for testing battery voltage and checking to make sure you're not grabbing a hot lead) You can get one super cheap at Walmart. You don't need a $100 meter for most basic multi meter usage
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ISAMUA6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1502035847&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=multimeter+digital&dpPl=1&dpID=51BVqQYiV1L&ref=plSrch
-balance charger (for rebalancing the batteries)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017Y2G4Y2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502036066&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=imax+b6ac+v2&dpPl=1&dpID=51GvA3h-MNL&ref=plSrch
-18 gauge wire (I made my own wire harnesses)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LZRV0HV/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1502036364&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=18+gauge+wire&dpPl=1&dpID=51CpIxqIWbL&ref=plSrch
-wire strippers
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000OQ21CA/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502036896&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=wire+strippers&dpPl=1&dpID=415oINm8uRL&ref=plSrch
-spade connectors
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01B1753K2/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1502036854&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=red+spade+connector&dpPl=1&dpID=31HVegxklVL&ref=plSrch
-banana plugs
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00APVQZ8U/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1502036751&sr=8-13&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=banana+plugs

u/LowkeyCamo · 1 pointr/Multicopter

I don't have the ability to mesure the current sensing input. Would ths multimeter work? And what would I need to do? Thanks for your help. I probably should have just bought one a long time ago, but I've never needed one before.

u/BigRobotBil · 1 pointr/dreamcast

I do, however I haven't really used one outside of checking if power outlets are functioning. At the risk of sounding inept, what would the points be to check, and the setting on the multimeter?


One thing that I did notice, that may or may not be related, was that after screwing in the DreamPSU, it became somewhat cockeyed. I checked the install video and the PDF supplied on the site, and it didn't look as cockeyed as mine did. Would bad contact like that be a factor?

u/Dakota66 · 1 pointr/Cartalk

Nobody else here is being helpful. So much for "Cartalk." I'm assuming you'll be working on the car yourself since that will be the cheapest. In order from most important to least important, here's what I'd do:

> Between 15-40 and 80-100, my steering wheel shakes

Get an alignment and have your wheels balanced. You can't do this yourself, and expect to pay around 200 bucks, give or take about 50 bucks. Most alignments cost about 160 form my experience. Absolutely crucial. A misaligned car will put excessive wear on the suspension components, brake components, and tires. It will literally cost you more money if you don't get an alignment.

> My car pulls to the right to the point where I will cross from one side of a lane to the other in just under a few seconds its less prominent at higher speeds.

Just get an alignment already.

> When I normal break, not hard not light my car like bounces like forward and back like if I'm kinda taping the breaks really fast.

AFTER your alignment, replace your brakes. You might even have to replace the entire caliper. Brakes have 4 main components: The pads, the rotor, the caliper, and the cylinder inside the caliper that actually pushes the pads against the rotor. I'd start fresh with new pads, rotors, and calipers (the cylinder comes with new calipers) if you can afford it. If you can't, start with the front brakes. They do the majority of the braking. I'm assuming your van has rotors and not drums. Drum brakes look different, and have different parts but do basically the same thing.

> 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT rear passenger turn signal out/Driver Side Low beam out High Beam works

Although the lights are mechanically less important, you're much more likely to get a ticket because of these, so maybe do these first. They're much cheaper. Turn signal bulbs can be had for 5-10 bucks and the most expensive headlights I've seen were about 50-60 bucks for the pair. They can techincally be as high as 100 bucks or more, but I really really doubt the lights in your van will be that expensive.

> My air does not blow in the front and only out of the floor in the back at times when it does kick on " super rare " it makes a horrible sound that you can hear outside the car

Depending on the climate you live in, I'd put this as a priorty. If it gets very cold and you don't have heat, do this next. Otherwise, I'd put it off as it can get very involved very quickly. You'll likely have to pull your dash for this and that'll take some time if you've never done it before. Expect to not drive for a week, if I'm being generous. If you work nonstop, you could have this done in 8-10 hours. No idea on the prices, i'm afraid, but I wouldn't expect to spend more than 200 bucks.

> My front windshield has 1 long crack from one corner to the other.

I wouldn't bother fixing this imo, but I was quoted about 400 bucks for a replacement on a tiny miata. Your price will likely be much more expensive, but for what it's worth, that was my quote.

> My driverside sliding door was destroyed when I hit a retaining wall and ripped it out of the slide and bent the shit out of it wont fully close and I have a ratchet strap holding it "closed"

You monster. You could likely go to a pick and pull lot and buy the entire door and replace it, depending on how much damage to the door rails you did when you hit the wall. Maybe, don't hit walls? This alone might be worth getting rid of the vehicle, but hey. I've been there. The stuff above will keep your car road worthy for the most part, unless you have a strict state vehicle inspection. Everything below is creature comfort.

> My left speaker driver side speakers will kick out and back in based on the size of the pothole I hit or how hard I smack the side of the console next to the radio

A ground or connection has come loose. Buy this multimeter and pull your housing around your radio out. Maybe buy a longer set of meter leads. Then set it to the diode function (the triangle line one that beeps when you touch the leads together. Read the instructions if you don't know) then just chase the wiring with your battery disconnected. You'll likely see the wire that's loose. Youtube can help with this one, I'll provide more help with this ifyou need it. You'll need a set of wire cutters/wire crimpers and some butt connectors. These can be had at harbor freight/amazon for as cheap as like 10 bucks or somewhere else for as expensive as like 50 bucks+ for high grade dedicated crimpers. I wouldn't spend more than 20 bucks.

> My trunk is missing the bar that opens the trunk with the button it will unlock so you can pull it but it won't open itself or hold itself open

I think I know what you're talking about? Again, junkyard. But I don't really know what you mean. Maybe autozone/rock auto carries that part? No idea

> In heavy rain water gets into my sunroof " I think " and will leak out my passenger side OH SHIT handle

+1 for "OH SHIT handle". Someone else mentioned caulk but some weather stripping might work well too. Spray it with a hose and watch where the water goes. Caulk may fuck up the sunroof if you use it, but if you don't it'll totally stop the leak. It's just a really redneck fix. It's a fix I've done too but super redneck.

> I am missing a portion of my bumper on the passenger side that covers the window wiper fluid container since it has been missing if I hit a puddle " I think " it soaks my alternator belt and it starts slipping and I lose power steering

Now, I said in order from most important to least important, but I saved this one for last because it's weird. Without seeing a picture, I can't help very much, but I'd start by checking the tension/tightening your belt. They shouldn't slip to the point that you loose power steering, even if splashed. Spraying belts with water is a common test to diagnose which pulley is squeaking.

As far as the bumper section missing, you can junkyard this too, but it might not be worth it. Most cars have a splashguard at the bottom of the engine bay for this reason, but even on cars that don't, belt slippage isn't really a problem. Seriously, check the tension.

You might read all this and decide the roughly $1000 (Expect 4 times that if you pay other people to do this work) isn't worth your car. That's totally fine. If your car was just poorly maintained, I'd say fix the problems and keep it. But since you have actualy damage from hitting walls and such, the frame might be bent and that's more than enough for an insurance company to total out the car. I'd reccommend fixing the alignment issue and continue driving it (Obviously do oil changes and buy new tires as required) until you can afford to buy a new car. But if the price of fixing this will put you near or in the hole, then just trade it in/scrap it and get a lightly used replacement. THEN start taking care of it and STOP HITTING THINGS!

Hope all this helps, friend.

u/skylarmt · 1 pointr/nexus5x

It's a good investment, you can test batteries, check if an outlet is powered, and all kinds of useful stuff. Here's one for $11.99.

u/yuckypants · 1 pointr/SmartThings

This one is more than enough, plus it's dirt cheap. The one I got was the most popular at the time, but it's no longer available (and not as cheap). These do the same thing anyway.

You can't trust that the old switches were wired correctly, so what you've been doing is an insanely bad idea. In fact, you always test every wire, just in case. Some shoddy electrician could have used a black wire for traveler and a red wire for neutral!

Oh, one more key bit of advice, if you want to find the line/load quickly (on a primary switch), pull the switch out of the wall, but don't disconnect power. Make sure power is off to the receptacle, ground your multimeter (I usually use an outlet's ground), and test for power. The one with power - that's line coming from the fuse panel. The dead one is load (that's the one that goes to the fixture).



Good luck and if you have any more questions, I'm here to help! Also, I should add, I'm a total noob also. I started with smartthings maybe 6-7 months ago, and before that, never even attempted a switch install. Hell, I still refresh myself with the videos, but I can almost do them without looking now.

u/Max_Kas_ · 1 pointr/CafeRacers

Buy a multimeter and start going through each connection. Check continuity throughout. You said you changed the ignition coils? Try putting the old ones back on and see if that works.
If it still doesn't then check to make sure the new spark plugs aren't the problem.

u/DetroitHustlesHarder · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Note to self: look into a multimeter.

Edit: Would this be sufficient for around-the-house use?

So here's a question... in the future, with a wiring setup like this, would it have accomplished the same thing (if I only had one switch controlling both the light and fan to nut the fan's black and blue to the ceilings black and then nut off the extra blue from the ceiling? Would that accomplish the same thing?

u/Tomusina · 1 pointr/electricians

I bought a multimeter - sorry to ask, but how do I safely use this thing? I know the very basics of it but I'm still nervous to use it. Can the water be on? (I only feel the current when the water is on)

Link to what I bought:

https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Digital-Multimeter-Voltage-Anti-Burn/dp/B01ISAMUA6

u/Raphan · 1 pointr/buildapc

Thanks for taking the time to reply so thoroughly.

The system didn't start at all today at several attempts.

>Third, if too much power is being consumed, then components of the power 'system' turn off power. Power is either completely good or is defective - ie causes crashes or shutdowns. Insufficient does not change the speed of processing - does not cause slowing.

That makes sense, which could indicate I either have two problems (which I would guess is rare?) or it's not the PSU. Could then be a motherboard problem. The USB devices drawing too much power so it doesn't start (crash) and crashing during gameplay (high intensity, high power, crash) could mean PSU. But the clock slowing would seem to contra-indicate that.

>Four, move on to suspects. What do system (event) logs report?
>Any problems identified in the Device Manager? In both cases, what are the numbers reported by those messages.

The PC is no longer turning on so I can't answer those. I looked at the device manager and didn't see any issues. I don't have any experience with event logs and didn't look at them.

I ordered a 4 pack of CMOS battery since they are so cheap and partially indicated; if that doesn't completely fix the issues getting a multi-meter sounds like a good step.

>BTW a volt meter will provide far more useful information than a new PSU. But that means you must request instructions and perform a 'so long' two minutes of labor. Those resulting numbers mean the fewer who actually know how hardware works can define the problem long before replacing anything. No honest recommendation is possible without those numbers.

If issues remain I will look into getting a voltmeter: is this one and these instructions reasonable?

u/Popshotzz · 1 pointr/Fixxit

It's a good sign they tested it and some battery places like that do indeed set them up properly. I'd call and tell them your situation and see if they can test the battery they sold you.


I'd pick up a cheap meter. They can be found for less than $15 and have many uses. For most things, a basic cheap one is fine.



https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Digital-Multimeter-Voltage-Tester/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1521913651&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=dmm&psc=1


edit: Make sure you aren't turning the key too far counter-clockwise and leaving the tail light on (parking light) Not sure if that model has that built in to the key switch and it is not uncommon to have that happen)

u/oomchu · 1 pointr/AskEngineers

If you’re going to go with option 1, I would recommend buying the book first to see what parts you need. You also might want to consider just buying the parts you need from some place like mouser electronics or sparkfun.

This meter will probably suit your needs better:

https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Digital-Multimeter-Voltage-Tester/dp/B01ISAMUA6

u/w00tiSecurity_weenie · 1 pointr/homelab

So i think my multimeter doesnt have enough ranges to test the variety of different settings on.



i ended up giving up. I dont think my multimeter does is able to read the different sizes or idk but I am getting a lot of misleading things and my head hurts from organizing by color. Can anyone recommend if one of these will be good?


  1. INNOVA 3320 Auto-Ranging Digital Multimeter

  2. AstroAI Digital Multimeter with Ohm Volt Amp and Diode Test

  3. Crenova MS8233D Auto-Ranging Digital Multimeter


u/RedOctobyr · 1 pointr/smallengines

Sure, and they are an excellent troubleshooting tool to have around. One example, on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Digital-Multimeter-Voltage-Tester/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=multimeter&qid=1559002606&s=gateway&sr=8-3

If there's a Harbor Freight near you, they frequently have coupons for their cheap multimeter for free, or close to it, if you buy something else.

u/rdawg16 · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

I just got a multimeter so can i use it to check the capacitance? and do i have to desolder to check it ?

Edit : actually it seems like the mutlimeter that i got doesn't have the capacitance feature
https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Digital-Multimeter-Voltage-Tester/dp/B01ISAMUA6/

u/sjv7883 · 1 pointr/hometheater

Yes, this. You can use a [digital multimeter] (https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Digital-Multimeter-Volt-Diode/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1495404991&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=digital+multimeter&psc=1) to test the impedance. I'd recommend doing this if you are planning on using the speakers that this connector belongs to.

u/Monkitail · 1 pointr/motorcycle

> so I am back to the same problem again a day after getting a new battery. It may be the charging system them
awww.amazon.com/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_VZPFDbGK9FQ5V

u/windowpuncher · 1 pointr/wiiu

https://smile.amazon.com/AstroAI-Digital-Multimeter-Voltage-Tester/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1517966083&sr=8-4&keywords=multimeter

Buy a multimeter. Then you have one when troubleshooting anything else electronic. Also good for testing car batteries and alternators and stuff. Don't shock yourself though.

But yeah, you can test the battery to see if it's actually dead, might have just not charged. Can also test the charger to see what it's outputting and if negative/positive are actually on the correct cables.

u/pseudozombie · 1 pointr/vandwellers

My 92 e350 diesel struggled to start in the cold last weekend, and I thought it was the battery. I probed it and it was fully charged. So I just put it in 2nd gear and let it roll out of the driveway. The movement of the engine allowed it to turn over and I guess warmed it up, and then it started just fine.

So it may not be the battery, it may just be the cold. Diesels have a much harder time starting in the cold than gasoline engines. So, I'd recommend getting a voltmeter. When its not starting, check the voltage. If the voltage is 12.8, then its fully charged. If its down to 11.2, then its empty. I am not sure what voltage is required to start, probably around 12, maybe a little less.

This cheap one on amazon should do the trick: https://smile.amazon.com/AstroAI-Digital-Multimeter-Voltage-Tester/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1518214456&sr=8-3&keywords=voltmeter&dpID=51BVqQYiV1L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

If it is the battery, likely there is a power drain somewhere. Those can be very hard to track down, so the best option in that case is to disconnect the batteries. There are battery disconnect switches you can put in the engine compartment. Those are also super useful to not get your rig stolen, as you can make it hard to find / not obvious.

Or maybe its the battery. Look for a battery mechanic in your area. Often they will test your current battery for free, and my experience has been that they don't try to scam you.

u/SqBlkRndHole · 1 pointr/autorepair

You need a volt meter to test it. Pop your caps and check the fluid level. It should be above the lead core. Top them off with "distilled water" if needed. The battery is only 16 months old, should be under warranty. https://www.amazon.com.au/AstroAI-Digital-Multimeter-Voltage-Tester/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=multimeter&qid=1563499391&s=gateway&sr=8-1

u/AJ170 · 1 pointr/CarAV

I already have a DMM