Reddit reviews B'laster 16-PB Penetrating Catalyst - 11-Ounces
We found 46 Reddit comments about B'laster 16-PB Penetrating Catalyst - 11-Ounces. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
BEST SELLER - The #1-selling penetrant since 1957! The PB B’laster outperforms leading competitors with its high-performance formula.EFFECTIVE - PB B’laster quickly busts loose rusted or frozen parts caused by rust and corrosion. Attack rust from all angles using the unique capillary action.SAVE TIME - This fast acting penetrant also contains a non-evaporating lubricant that saves time and equipment. It makes rusted nuts and frozen bolts a struggle-free job. Don’t worry about the future, PB B’laster also protects against further rust and corrosion.MULTIPLE USES - Rust can build up in many places. Use the the PB B’laster on car parts, fishing reels and tackle, all tools, firearms, sports equipment, marine applications and more.
[PB Blaster] (http://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-oz/dp/B000I2079E)
Really soak those screws good - leave it alone for about 15 minutes, come back and tap on it with a hammer on each screw - you can tap it pretty good, you'll be loosening that rust.
Spray it again and repeat this process like 3 or 4 more times. After a little over an hour of doing this, tap on it with a hammer, and then try to unscrew it. If it still doesn't turn, repeat previous process again. Eventually it will turn, it just takes patience.
You can get PB Blaster at any hardware store usually. Second choice would be Liquid Wrench, but PB Blaster has always worked better for me.
If you wanted to get the wheels moving again, this specific thing and brand is your best chance.
WD-40, for the most part, is piss poor at doing anything well. It is over marketed, over hyped at what it does. It is a lubricant, a poor one. It is also a rust penetrator, a poor one. In the shop, we called it monkey piss, because you might as well have used monkey piss to get that rusty rotor that has seen 10 salty Midwest winters, off the hub.
It works as a jack of all trades (kinda), which makes it handy for the home owner that wants one can that can do many things. In reality, if you want a lubricant, get a proper one. If you want a rust inhibitor, there are brands available that do the job much quicker, that foam up, penetrate and stick to the rust (instead of dripping off) where you can see the rust pulled away and fall off. Go to your auto parts supplier and ask the guys who do wholesale for the local shops, and they'll point you to what is used. If they recommend WD-40, walk out.
Edit: Thanks to DrCockenstein for reminding what we used, PB Blaster. Here's an Amazon link to the product.
I can't recommend it enough if you are trying to loosen something rusty.
https://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-11-Ounces/dp/B000I2079E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483636915&sr=8-1&keywords=pb+blaster#customerReviews
TLDR: WD-40 is garbage, a proper lubricant should be purchased.
Spray, let it soak in, repeat.
Grab yourself a can of PB Blaster, let it sit on the connection for 15 minutes, then try again with the channel locks.
If you're in an area subject to freezing, I would also consider replacing that hose bib with a frost free hose bib. Much better than forgetting to close the shutoff valve in the basement/crawl space.
Yeah that's easy. PB Blaster...by far the best stuff I've ever used at removing bolts or other severly rusted/stuck things(far far better than WD-40)
Just read these reviews...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/cr/B000I2079E/ref=mw_dp_cr
First I would try a real penetrating oil like PB Blaster. It will suck into those threads and start dissolving the rust and also lubricate between the threads. Give those nuts a little tap with a wrench or something lightly after you spray it. Give it about 20 minutes to work. Also make sure you're not using one of these.
WD-40 is sort of a general purpose chemical. It's decent at a lot of things, but not really great at anything.
Buy some rust remover and use it after you have manually removed most of it with a wire brush. it will get into all the nooks and crannies and dissolve it away and leave you with a totally clean surface. if the rust is really deep it may have pitted the surface, but that shouldn't really be a problem for a jointer unless it's severe. Once the rust is gone you will know for sure what you need to flatten and true up.
The knives almost certainly need to be replaced and re-set, there are probably just a couple of set screws to adjust the cutter height on that model. Don't forget to finish everything with a coat of wax so it all glides smoothly.
Oh, and if any of the adjustment handles are rusted and stuck, B'laster is magical.
As someone working through this but a few years ahead of you, I'll pass along the list of stuff I've bought and/or wish to buy...
Hand Tools
Power Tools
Also, there are fluids to consider
Of these, I'd focus on the hand tools, fluids, and the Dremel. You can always ask someone to buy you a saw for Christmas. If you have these things on hand, there probably won't be a job come along that you can't handle at some basic level. I'm assuming you don't need yard grooming tools, because that's an entirely different list.
Invest in some of this, kicks the shit out of WD-40 for breaking things lose:
http://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-oz/dp/B000I2079E
What tools do you have?
For longevity target rust. Sand, grind, scrape it down and paint it with hightemp paint. You can replace the grates if you want just search cooking/grill grates on Amazon and you'll probably find something that fits. Personally I'd replace the handles. I hate a grill that feels like it wants to crush my hand when I'm taking a peek or sticking in a temperature probe.
IF I were cleaning it up I'd take this to it, inside and out, and repaint the whole thing. If you don't have an angle grinder a Drill version works (preferably with a cord, batteries don't last that long). I'd remove/replace all wood (handles particularly), hardware, screws, bolts, anything that comes off. Maybe something with the hinges, probably some PB Blaster to break up that rust then some WD40 to coat/lubricate whats left.
To use it, clean off the grates and smoke something, it's usable as is. Get it nice and hot then bring the temperature down and let it go. You may find that it is to big/small for you. People underestimate the charcoal and wood required to keep a smoker this big going. I personally couldn't use one this big, smoking 3 times what you eat sounds good til you throw away good brisket or ribs a week later. If you want to smoke as much as possible get the smoker that makes it easy, not the one that feeds your extended family once a year. For free, just use it and see before you invest time/money.
Try some pb blaster on all the moving metal joints. They could be rusted or otherwise frozen with grime.
Seriously, replace them for your boat kit. There's a lot of overlap with rock climbing, and any safe climber will tell you that exhausted gear like this should be retired from your active kit because someone might inadvertently use it.
I know the situations where you'll need a 23kN carabiner on the river are vanishingly small, but you don't want to risk it. Corrosion is insidious, too, and you might not be able to tell how much strength has been lost by visual inspection. If you've got a biner on the river or crag, it should be able to be used for all original purposes (even if it's marked) so that you don't accidentally use a bad biner in a critical situation.
If you're going for non-survival use, PB Blaster is insanely useful, as any mechanic working on cars in cold-weather climates can tell you.
Conceivably, if you're a dab hand with a blowtorch, heat and vicegrips could get the job done, but you really, really, really can't use them for anything safety related if you do that.
Read up on freeing stuck bolts on cars; I think it's your best bet. Don't use those biners in your gearbag, though.
Ballistol, PB Blaster and White Lightning.
A lot of people are saying leverage, which will work. Alternatively, go with a power tool! Find the right sized bit (no idea if any of that set matches) and an impact driver and you should be able to unscrew it without much difficulty (after much soaking in penetrating oil).
Also, soak the bolts in PB Blaster. I swear that stuff is straight magic.
http://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-oz/dp/B000I2079E
You drill into it with a reverse (left handed) drillbit, running your drill in reverse. That will probably bring the bolt out, but if it doesn't you use an Easy Out screw extractor to screw it out. Here is a kit with both left handed bits and extractors. You can get individual tools at a local hardware store. Soak it well wit PB Blaster first.
WD-40 is great for some things, like moisture displacement and cleaning rust. It is not a penetrant, so it won't eat it's way into the corrosion (if there is much) on the threads.
PB Blaster is technically a penetrating catalyst, it's entire purpose is to penetrate into things and allow you to break them loose more easily. It actually pulls itself into the crevices and lubes things that WD-40 would never get to.
Say hello to my little friend.
Soak it up really well with a penetrating lubricant. I'm fond of PB Blaster and Knock 'er Loose. Soak it well over several days. Then, gently heat the outer section with a torch, and twist.
Alternatively, you can use a jack to separate them. You'll need a way to attach to both sections, with a grip of some sort, then just use the jack to drive them apart.
Well, it beats the basin wrench that many articles recommend. Apply some PB Blaster and go out for lunch before returning and applying torque. It really is amazing how suddenly the nut comes loose. Be careful not to spill it, as it's about as aggressive as paint remover.
or PB blaster.
The hood latches tend to seize up over time, especially if you don't lubricate them occasionally. Had the same problem on my Mk5 Jetta. If it's seized and not a broken cable, you can generally fix it pretty easily.
You need three things: a small screwdriver, a can of lightweight break-free lube like Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster penetrating oil, and a can of spray lithium lube.
Pop the safety latch and prop the hood. Locate the hood latch assembly. Using the precision tube on the spray lube, saturate the inside of the latch and latch plate with the penetrating oil (try to keep overspray from rubber parts). Let sit for 30 seconds or so, and then press on the open side of the latch with the screwdriver until the latch plate releases and locks. Pull the hood release in the cabin to reset. Repeat several times until the latch snaps closed freely when you press on it with the screwdriver. Respray with penetrator if necessary.
Use a shop towel to mop up as much penetrating oil as you can and spray the entire inside of the latch assembly with as much spray lithium as it will hold. Work the mechanism a few more times to get it into the pivot and latch plate as much as possible. Re-saturate with lithium grease and button up.
Every time you change your oil, you should relubricate the hood latch with spray lithium to keep this from happening.
EDIT: Linkies.
http://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-oz/dp/B000I2079E
Its a pretty good penetrating lubricant. you can find it pretty much anywhere. its what I have on my shelf at home, but your choice of penetrating lubricant would probably be just fine.
PB B'laster. Cheaper than WD-40. Its got a hell of a warning label on it so you know it's good. Not to be used by pregnant women.
https://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-oz/dp/B000I2079E
This is your friend on vehicles with rust. There's a few variants of this, but this is on the the better more available ones, that isn't stupid expensive
https://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-11-Ounces/dp/B000I2079E
https://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-11-Ounces/dp/B000I2079E
Make sure you are using a screw driver where the head fits nicely into the screw. If you use one that doesn't fit well it will be much more likely to strip it.
Use pb blaster. WD40 is junk.
Another thing you can do is to put the screw driver into the screw and tap it with a hammer. The idea is to break loose rust or other stuff holding the screw in place.
These 2 things are from years of fixing cars. the other thing I do with cars is to apply heat. Usually with a propane torch. This expands the metal and breaks any rust holding it in place. but I have a feeling that it wouldn't work well with nintendo's plastic case. ha
My first job as a mechanic was working on mostly pre-'86 cars and trucks. My boss handed me a can of this awesome stuff called PB Blaster and since then, I always give rusty bolts a good soaking in it before making attempt. I have never broken a bolt off since and all I work on are '60's and '70s Mopars and frequent junkyards. I hope this helps
If you are trying to free up sticky, the best thing I have found is PB Blaster Penetrating Catalyst http://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-oz/dp/B000I2079E. Be sure to have a pair of rubber gloves and lots of ventilation. Be very careful not to let this get on plastic. I'd spray a little bit down where the typebar goes into the element and work the key until it is smooth up and down. Wipe off the excess and let it air out for a day or so. You should be good to go. A little goes a long way. This has freed every sticky machine I've ever dealt with. Regarding lubrication, I guess I'd say the lighter the machine oil the better - http://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Bearings-EXTRA-LONG-synthetic-movements/dp/B00CD814RA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1396799365&sr=8-4&keywords=clock+oil+kit
You need to use a screw extractor.
If you've lead a good clean life (and it looks like you haven't) it will come right out.
If you don't want to buy the tool or don't have the drill to use it with just go to your LBS. Any competent one should be able to do this for you for a rather small charge.
If you have reason to suspect the screw is in there real good start applying PB Blaster or other penetrating oil now. Do whoever will be removing it a favor and get penetrating early. WD-40 is not a good penetrating oil.
Try a different lube, like PB blaster
Try to intentionally apply pressure in the "ON" direction. Sometimes it will break free enough while tightening to come loose.
Try hitting the crank arm while trying to loosen/tighten. A rubber mallet or deadblow would be best.
If the above still does not work only then would I start methods that may cause damage... like more force or heat.
https://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-11-Ounces/dp/B000I2079E/ref=pd_all_spx_5/146-4021135-0122059?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000I2079E&pd_rd_r=69018b96-57a5-11e9-8bb5-4d66d06308ae&pd_rd_w=Z79rJ&pd_rd_wg=BI4pX&pf_rd_p=181658a1-8c8b-49ea-9a7c-d3e4ca5d6a8c&pf_rd_r=1V3R7SNX7NNC1CXHCBE8&psc=1&refRID=1V3R7SNX7NNC1CXHCBE8
You've never heard of PB Blaster? This stuff is magic
Try using PB Blaster to penetrate the gunk. I had this issue with a old VW and PB Blaster helped. Also tried using the blow torch/impact wrench. that failed but PB Blaster and this methods combined worked. HTH
Great job! You might try PBlaster next time you have seized screws, it does a much better job than WD40. I used it this weekend cleaning up a Disston D-15 Victory saw. Same store had a few stanley planes but they were too far gone for saving.
https://imgur.com/a/ZCANI -- Saw ended up good enough for me to use. Might watch that Paul Sellers video on sharpening them, I think it's sharp but who knows.
Apologies for the odd angles - uploaded from Imgur mobile and didn't see where to flip the image. Guessing saw dates somewhere between 1928 and 1945. The victory symbol changed to a "V" around then by the eagle.
I had to replace the front passenger hub assembly on my wife's minivan. The bearing nut came off with no problems and I thought that was going to be the bear. Nope. One of the brake caliper support bolts would NOT budge even with my impact and a half a can of PB Blaster. Eventually got it off after heating up the housing around the bolt with some
MAPPpropylene gas. That thing was ON there.As for your stripped screw problem, i had the same problem on my Acura. I have a fatty flathead screwdriver, probably 5 time normal. I dremeled a notch into the head of the screw, sprayed it with blaster, let it sit for a bit and cursed and put a fair amount of weight into it and it broke free.
This stuff is your friend when it comes to rust. One can has lasted me awhile.
Spray that on the rusted area and let it sit for a day or two for best results. Get a wrench that fits on the bolt, and take a hammer to the end of the wrench. There are better and safer ways to break free a rusted bolt (impact hammer/wrench) but this is the cheap way.
Oh, and in the future try PB Blaster instead when you're trying to free something that is seized up. It is far superior to WD-40 for that task.
locksmith here. I dont see any lock on the door. No dial at least. Is it key operated? It could just be a hatch of some kind thats rusted shut. Try lubricating the crap out of it and using something like pb blaster or a similar penetrating oil. let that sit for a while than try opening it.
I have some of this. I'll give it a try. I feel like I was hitting it pretty hard but I was definitely afraid of damaging something. I could definitely hit harder. Thanks for the response.
I use a stripped screw extractor kit. Very handy for under $20; I've had good luck with them.
Don't forget to spracy the screw with a penetrating oil first!
http://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-oz/dp/B000I2079E/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1394596607&sr=1-1&keywords=p+blaster
Know what I don't keep in my car? Candles. Know what I do? PB Blaster. Instead of using pinterest inspired gimmicks I do what actual adults do. Buy PB Blaster (or any other version of penetrating oil) and use it like it is intended.
It is not expensive and works wonders on everything. If you aren't in a hurry you can get it for $3.64 on Amazon Prime Shipped.
If you need it today then hit up your local Autozone or Wal-Mart or whatever place you have around you that deals with automotive stuffs. They will have it. It's everywhere. Know what they don't have in that aisle? Candles.