Reddit reviews BCP 1roll 20mm x 25m Double Side Adhesive Thermal Conductive Tape for Heatsink LED

Yes inverted style case - Corsair's 600Q (non-windowed)- GPU: AMD RX 5700 XT Anniversary edition. Nice to finally have a inaudible build.

These are the Items I used:

• EVGA CLC 120mm All-In-One CPU Liquid Cooler
  
• Two Arctic F12 PWM PST Fans of these fans in a push/pull config
  
• And of course the NZXT Kraken G12
  
• Here are the Heatsinks I Used
  
• Adhesive Thermal Conductive Tape
  
• And some small black zip-ties to hold back plate on

1. Before Accelero III: stock clocks on blower style cooler getting 80°+ within minutes of playing games. I could adjust fan speed to lower temps, but fan sounded like jet engine. I refused to run my GPU at these temps, so I ordered the Accelero III. After Accelero III: GPU on stock clocks never exceeds 63° and OC'd the temps never exceed 67° The fans typically run around 30% while gaming and are much quieter than the blower cooler.
   
2. While my Accelero was in route, I watched some install videos and read up on it. When I received it, I took my time installing and it went quite well. I used thermal adhesive tape instead of the included thermal epoxy. It seems to be holding really well; I cleaned the surfaces using coffee filters and 91% isopropyl alcohol to ensure a clean surface for optimum adhesion. Just search youtube for install vids (Optimum Tech video here) and Artic Install Manual
   
3. I used this fan adapter for my card. I needed this because my GPU only has 1 fan header and I didn't want to add another cable in the form of a splitter. The less cables you have to deal with in this case, the better. I used this thermal tape; I just used scissors to cut to size. I recommend some tweezers because the backing can be difficult to remove to expose the adhesive. I'm using two NF12 fans in exhaust configuration; they are connected directly to the GPU via previously mentioned adapter so the GPU controls the fans. I would recommend you have several different size phillips screwdrivers available; I used an ifixit screwdriver kit.

From what I've read/saw, it seems pretty straightforward. However, people recommend using [double sided thermal tape] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MSL64XG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A3JMKZ8DR0NSCW&psc=1) instead of the glue they provide so you can take off the cooler in the future.

I have no opinion on the EVGA Hybrid, but I do have an EVGA 1070 SC with the Accelero Xtreme III and Noctua NF-F12 fans (which should perform similarly to Corsair's ML120's.)

I'm very happy with my setup. It runs at 31°C at idle, and around 53-54°C at load, with a max of 60°C. I set a custom fan curve with EVGA PrecisionX so that the fans run at 10% (350RPM) at idle and 15-25% (560-860RPM) at load. The card's default curve turns the fans off at idle, but my GPU isn't getting much fresh air from the side panel fan, so the GPU temp would slowly creep up over time. At 10% fan speed, the idle temp stays stable and cool, and the noise difference is imperceptible.

And for your second question...yeah, I think you could do it. I would recommend reading the instructions completely a few times before starting, just so you understand the whole process because it can seem daunting at first. Also, buy a roll of double-sided thermal tape! It will make installing the small heatsinks way easier. Arctic wants you to use epoxy to attach them, but that gives you limited time to install the heatsinks and you have to leave it overnight to cure. The tape is better because it has neither of those issues, and it's non-permanent, in case you ever need to RMA the card.

Edit: You might also be interested in this thread: https://www.reddit.com/r/sffpc/comments/6ct3cr/the_arctic_accelero_xtreme_iii_is_a_miracle_worker/

I was able to pick up double sided thermal tape almost two years ago. It was used to apply heat sinks to my GTX 1080 Ti and it works quite well. I definitely recommend it. Plus it's fairly inexpensive and there is A LOT of it. The heat sinks stay on real well and are not permanent. To take of the heat sink it only required a minor twist and they popped off with the tape stuck on the heat sinks.

I used the the Optimumtech video for his placement of the heatsinks, though I used double-sided thermal tape instead of the glue that comes with it. So I could put the original heatsink back on if I want to reuse or sell the gpu.

Adhesive thermal conductive tape https://www.amazon.com/BCP-Adhesive-Thermal-Conductive-Heatsink/dp/B01MSL64XG

> It won't be direct light but it seems the shape and close walls bounces the light around more efficiently

Yes, this is correct and modeling it is a lot more complicated particularly modeling diffuse white surfaces (flat white paint) versus diffuse white surfaces with glare (Panda Plastic or black/white poly film) as an example. I was trying to give a simpler answer! This is what would be used professionally for modeling:

https://www.zemax.com/opticstudio

>And are those the blue light sticks you created?

No, that is just straight up side or intracanopy lighting for photosynthesis. It's on aluminum angle that is 1/8th inch thick. I used to crack open Philips light bulbs with a remote phosphor to get to the LEDs inside and remount them. At the time it was the most economical way to get more efficient LEDs.

The prevailing theory is the "pressure flow hypothesis" that states that sugars created (sugar source) flows to the sugar sinks (new growth areas like buds) with the sugars created transported through the phloem to where the sugars are most needed in a plant.

You can only get so much yield per volume/area with top lighting before you must use intracanopy lighting and dispersing the lighting rather than just blasting from the top. But every photon not hitting the plant is a wasted photon and the basis for my critique that a lot of people need to put their lights lower.



The closet DIY would be part 4 of my lighting guide:

https://www.reddit.com/r/HandsOnComplexity/comments/1okfcv/led_and_led_grow_lights_part_4_building_your/

When mounting LEDs this is a quick and easy way:

https://www.amazon.com/BCP-Adhesive-Thermal-Conductive-Heatsink/dp/B01MSL64XG

I personally used Thermal Tape, just in case I decide to RMA/sell the card, I can put the original EVGA heatsink back on it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MSL64XG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

is what I used, there was even a review of someone else using it on the Accelero Xtreme 3. Seemed solid when putting them on.

I would just pick up some tape with prime shipping or something. It raises the heat sinks up a little off the PCB and keeps them naturally flatter than adhesive might so you gain a little safety there. The accelero also includes some little masking strips to protect PCB components from shorting (which I did not use because I missed them) so you might make use of those.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MSL64XG/ref=psdcmw_2998409011_t1_B001GIM9V8

https://www.amazon.com/BCP-Adhesive-Thermal-Conductive-Heatsink/dp/B01MSL64XG/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511236405&sr=1-4&keywords=adhesive+thermal+pad&dpID=312RWPXofdL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Thermal-Pad-145-1-0/dp/B00UYTTXSM/ref=pd_sim_147_10?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WNCK4JY3ZHZ25QY9YJV2

This double-sided thermal tape works pretty well. Thermal epoxy is also an option but it's usually overkill for stepper motors. The tape is cheap, holds firmly, and has decent heat transfer.

I've seen some heatsink mods but I wanted it to look OEM. So I got some black heatsinks and thermal tape and in less than 10 minutes and I have a much less fiery Firestick.

Heat sinks: $7 on ebay

https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Pcs-20x20x10mm-Heat-Sink-Heatsinks-Cooling-Aluminum-Radiator-LY/163721250535

Thermal tape on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MSL64XG/

Sorry about the formatting, so the test is mainly for the temperature then. I thought the cpu was going to "throttle" up and down, to see if the governor is working, but I think I'm misunderstanding what throttling means here, or at all lol.

Anyway, the case is from C4labs, and I added Mudder heatsinks with BCP thermal tape. It's wayy more tape then you'll ever need but it's not that expensive and is good to have I guess.

Just get some of this and stick it back on