Reddit reviews BioAdvanced 704140 All-In-One Lawn Weed and Crabgrass Killer Garden Herbicide, 32-Ounce

I recognize crabgrass and "henbit" Lamium amplexicaule there. Both are typical weeds in my region.

I had a similar problem, and /u/ferrarisnowday has good suggestions but the route I took is different. It is very much slower though, so if speed is your goal, you do need to "nuke it and start over" like (s)he suggested.

The process I'm using is called "overseeding" and it takes a few years to get to a good lawn. The upside is you don't have bare dirt at any point, so it doesn't erode or give lots of weeds a chance to grow. Overseeding involves killing existing undesirable grasses/weeds using something like [Bayer Lawn Weed & Crabgrass Killer] (http://www.amazon.com/Bayer-Advanced-Crabgrass-Concentrate-32-Ounce/dp/B001OSH5P0/) then wait about 3 weeks, seed and fertilize like you would for an established lawn except that you don't use pre-emergent. (For the uninitiated, pre-emergent is a fertilizer type that prevents new plants from growing, including good seeds).

Depending on the type of grass you want, seeding is best in the spring (in a week or two, where I live) or in the fall, and you can help the seed work better by core aerating (a big machine that punches 1/2" holes in the yard to get air and seeds deeper in the soil. Put seed down, spread starter fertilizer. Water generously until grass starts growing, then go to normal watering schedule.

I have noticed with this method that the few bare-dirt spots I had have grown grass much more quickly and look better than the spots I overseeded; competition from the pre-existing weeds has limited the effectiveness of overseeding. If you can kill all your grass and weeds and then start, that works better. If you can afford sod, do it; but be sure to water it according to instructions.

(Feel free to ask me if you have any questions about how or why I'm doing what I'm doing)

TL;DR: An alternative is overseeding if your yard slopes or killing it all to bare dirt isn't feasible.

Use anything that contains quinclorac and 24-d. Bigger dandelions may require multiple applications.

link

Bayer all-in-one lawn weed & crabgrass killer: https://www.amazon.com/Bayer-Advanced-Crabgrass-Concentrate-32-Ounce/dp/B001OSH5P0

Blanket spray with a sprayer with this : Bayer Advanced All-in-One Lawn Weed & Crabgrass Killer 32 oz Concentrate for Dandelions, Crabgrass & Clover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OSH5P0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JT2TCbFNR3A08

And when it starts to get warmer in your area (70+) put down some milorganite.

I agree with spot spraying for weeds. Bayer sells a concentrate broad leaf weed plus crabgrass killer. It has the same 2,4-D as the product you mentioned but also contains quinclorac for the crabgrass. It will only kill the young plants and usually leaves the dead brown crabgrass visible.


OP, here's what I would do:

-Apply a layer of pre-emergent to catch all the crabgrass that hasn't sprouted yet (it comes in throughout the warm season).

-Get a soil test and apply a fertilizer at the rate needed. I don't suggest a 'weed and feed' because the amount of fertilizer and pre-emergent/weedkiller will not necessarily match up.

-Spot treat weed patches with a hand sprayer and the Bayer weed + crabgrass killer. (on sale for $9 at Lowes). This will take a couple of passes before weeds are really gone.

-Use the recommended does of ant killer on the ant mounds. You can/should also apply an insect killer to the entire lawn to prevent grubs and moles.

Moving forward you'll want to continue spot spraying when you see weeds, follow a regular fertilizer schedule, and apply pre-emergent in the fall and spring. These steps can all be skipped but any skips will result in the much greater amount of work that you're experiencing now.

2-4D will not kill crabgrass. It is a broad leaf killer. It will kill dandelions, clovers, and the like, but not crabgrass. Crabgrass is an annual, and can be controlled with applying a late fall or early spring pre-emergent fertilizer. The pre-emergent will stop the crabgrass (And other!) seeds from germinating and sprouting. You will not be able to grow any grass for a period of time after you apply the fertilizer.

Otherwise, you will want to combat the crabgrass before they drop their seeds for the year. You can do this with a non selective weed killer such as RoundUp, pull weeds with your bare hands, or you can purchase some weed killer that combats crabgrass.

For effectiveness, the pre-emergent is probably your best bet. If you are looking into taking care of your crabgrass now, you can look for herbicides that will kill the weed and not your grass. I am not endorsing the below products, but through reviews and a bit of research on my own, I was going to try these products on my yard to combat crabgrass.

Drive XLR8 Herbicide 1/2 Gallon 64 OZ. KILLS CRABGRASS

Bayer Advanced 704140A All-In-One Lawn Weed and Crabgrass Killer Concentrate

Finally, any herbicide you buy, buy in the concentrate. You will save money in the long run. Get a decent pump or battery sprayer and you will be all set.

You want what’s called a 3-way weed killer that has the active ingredients 2,4-d(most common broadleaf weed killer) and quinclorac(most common crabgrass killer). I use Bio Advanced Weed & Crabgrass Killer and mix it in a 1 gallon pump sprayer.

I actually just sprayed with this stuff a few days ago using a fan sprayer nozzle over about 50% of my lawn just spot spraying in a grid pattern where I saw weeds. Haven't seen any results yet, I tested it along my driveway a few days prior and those weeds just started to wither and die. https://www.amazon.com/Bayer-Advanced-Crabgrass-Concentrate-32-Ounce/dp/B001OSH5P0/ref=sr_1_2?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1466621542&sr=1-2&keywords=bayer+advanced