Reddit Reddit reviews BIQU Heat Bed Power Module Expansion Hot Bed MOS Tube for 3D Printer

We found 46 Reddit comments about BIQU Heat Bed Power Module Expansion Hot Bed MOS Tube for 3D Printer. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Industrial & Scientific
Additive Manufacturing Products
3D Printer Parts & Accessories
3D Printer Controllers
BIQU Heat Bed Power Module Expansion Hot Bed MOS Tube for 3D Printer
A general add-on heated bed power expansion module for 3D printerCompletely solve the hot bed power is too large and the load current issue. It can work with the Anet A8With this addon module to your 3D printer motherboard you can lead the maximum current up to 15AUnder the premise of normal heat dissipation, this module can work steadily under the condition of I(Max)=15A. Don't exceed 15A during the process.)If you intend to use heated bed with your 3D printer that uses a 12V power supply, then this module is recommended, else it may cause excessive current during times which may burn the connectors on the controller board, According to the thermal power of the bed, please choose the appropriate power supply, with sufficient margin. If it is large power heated, we suggest 24V power supply, under the same power requirements, current is less than 12 v
Check price on Amazon

46 Reddit comments about BIQU Heat Bed Power Module Expansion Hot Bed MOS Tube for 3D Printer:

u/SakrethGarlon · 8 pointsr/3Dprinting

It's a super easy mod to do. The parts are like $8 on Amazon and you print the mount. This is the first thing I did on my Maker Select.
Mod link:

u/Upgrayeddddd · 4 pointsr/3Dprinting

Keeps it all at ~12.5V. I managed to get one screw into it to hold it where the old one used to go.

Also get the mosfet to run the bed power completely independently of the controller board for another $10:

Use some ~14ga lamp cord to tie it in. :)

u/micahjoel_dot_info · 3 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I'm working on this mod:

The double-sized hotbed takes more power than the stock power supply can put out (especially the newer 7 amp models, which I have)

So I decided to use one of the MOSFET drivers, through the existing power jack, to which I'll connect a beefier power supply. I chose this one:

The top two terminals tap into power as shown here:

The bottom two run through the braided cable (joined by the thermistor wires and run to the new platform. The small connector goes to the original board's hotbed connection.

If anyone else has done this mod, or something similar, I have a few questions.

  1. I can't quite figure out how the hotbed wires are supposed to route. The larger bed has connections on the side. Facing the printer, would those work better attaching at the right-hand or left-hand side? (I can post pictures if it would help)

  2. I had previously done the external wire routing for the hotbed. Is externally-routed wiring advisable (or even possible) with this configuration?

    I'll probably have more questions as I go. :-)
u/slakwhere · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

thank you for this post. i am not OP but just got a Maker Select, grabbed the board from amazon and the print from thingiverse and will upgrade my printer ASAP!

u/ggppjj · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

The e3d V6 lite needed this carriage mount (and this is the direct-drive version, not the bowden setup) to be printed in ABS (and ONLY ABS, PLA will warp and eventually bust. Plus, ABS repairs with acetone really well and easily, so I've busted the one I printed a while back a couple times and just re-welded it together). This is the power supply I got, and I also got two of these MOSFETs. More info on the wiring here, I'd also recommend their advice in replacing the wiring to the bed and the mainboard with higher-gauge wires to prevent issues.

Ninja edit:
I also had to adjust my printer firmware to have the new center-point for the hotend set to actual center, for that I had to flash SkyNet3D firmware, a Marlin-based firmware made specifically for the board the A8 came with. If you're replacing the board with a RAMPS board, more than likely you'll be setting it up for all that anyways.

u/Luftwaff1es · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

Look, I am talking completely out of my ass here as I don't have any experience with your printer. I do have an A8 though and I don't trust it as far as I can throw it. That being said, the GT2560 looks orders of magnitude better than the board on the A8 and so is probably capable of driving the 12A or so for the heat bed.

Still, if you have one of these MOSFETs lying around it might be worth the piece of mind to take the load of the main board.

Again, I have no experience with your printer so I am probably 110% wrong.

u/BillNyeDeGrasseTyson · 3 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I used this one. Good for 15A.

u/cye604 · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

Basically, the printer currently pulls power from the PSU, runs it through the main control board, and out to the heated bed. The thing is, that's a lot of power to pull and push through such tiny connectors. The Mosfet is like a little light switch. The control board tells it to turn on, and it just lets electricity flow from the PSU to the heated bed, no issues.

Here is a good one. Just take the wires from the board, and put them where this one says "Hot Bed." Then, connect wires from the PSU (screw terminals) to the other 2 screws on the Mosfet. Finally, connect the 2 wires on the Mosfet to where you pulled out the wires from the control board.

u/midnightsmith · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Seconding everything people have said here and want to add the following.
A glass bed with 10mil PEI from CS Hyde will do wonders for bed leveling.

Upgrade your Y plate as soon as possible, the stock one warps over enough time making bed leveling nearly impossible.

All metal hotend such as the micro swiss is amazing, no more clogged PTFE tubing, easier to clean if it does.

Z brace is a must, also print a fan cooler like the Diicooler on thingiverse. Replace the stock part cooling fan with a nice radial fan, plenty on amazon, make sure its 12v. This helps prints come out cleaner.

Yours should come with thumbwheels, if not, print some, bed leveling is easier with it.

Print some spring cups as well, keeps the springs straight and not bending when leveling the bed.


Watch this vid and do his printed mods

Also, stay far far FAR away from Shaxon filament! It broke my hotend, check my post history to see the red glob of death I dealt with. I have had very good luck with eSun PLA.

Links for bought parts:
Fans: [here (]

Glass plate: [Here (]

Hotend: [Here(]

Y plate: [Here (]

MOSFET: [here(] and wires [here(]

u/AirsoftGuru · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I know this may seem like a silly question but it is nearly impossible without any knowledge to search for these connectors online. I am referring to the white connector with the cable installed. It looks similar to a JST but slightly different. Look at the link. This is a heatbed mosfet and I need to replace the cable due to a printer redesign. If anyone knows the style of connector I would be very grateful. The wire is about 20 gauge. Here's a link to the product page, I couldn't find any info there.

u/McNerdius · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I'd strongly consider a mosfet install as well. Thing is, the point of failure (connectors) has been "fixed" by beefing up the connectors - but not the cause of the failure. The amperage is still there, waiting for a point of failure... The mosfet mod eliminates the cause of failure. No soldering, $8 (+shipping?), printed mount, easy peasy.

(more info in the thingiverse link)

u/vorpal-blade · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I ordered two of them, one is operating just fine on the A8 for the past 6 months or so. The other one is the topic of this conversation.

Ha: Reading that listing again, it says 15 amps max. I guess there is my answer.

u/NotPapaJohns · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

The Monoprice maker select v2(.1?) Is a little over $300 on Amazon, but other than that, it fits all of your other needs. It uses standard metric screws and such, so fixing and modding the printer is easy. It's also has a respectable build volume of 200mm^2 and a height of 180mm, which is nice to have. It comes mostly assembled: you just need to use 4 included screws to attatch the gantry to the base and 2 more to attach the filament holder. It took me no time at all to start a test print. I'm coming up on six months with my printer now, and it hasn't given out on me once. For the best prints, you'll want to do some mods, but only the absolutely necessary MOSFET mod requires non-printed hardware that isn't just screws and nuts (or the standard M8 threaded rod used in AzzA's Z-brace mod).
Tl;dr: Monoprice Maker Select v2 on Amazon, order a MOSFET to go with it, 10/10 IGN

u/gootarts · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

There are a couple ones I've seen in tutorials: I used this, but seen some youtubers use this.

u/AddictedToComedy · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Congrats and welcome to the club!

> Some of the supports looked "wonky" during the print. Like, they didn't go "straight up". Is that normal or did it not have enough cooling?

Not sure what you mean. This print doesn't use supports. Do you mean the walls? Any photos that can show us what you observed?

When printing PLA, more cooling is almost always better: hard to have too much. I'm not sure what problem you observed or whether cooling would have solved it, but better cooling will definitely improve future prints.

> As you can see, it was printed on a raft. If you look cloesly, the bottom of the of the butterfly has a slight lip around it (like the first couple layers are wider than the rest. Is there anything I can do to improve upon that so it's straight the whole way up and down?

Hm, it's not as common to see elephant's foot for something printed on a raft. Usually it happens from the nozzle really squishing the first layer into the bed, or the bed being too hot.

You'll want to learn how to print without rafts ASAP, at which point you'll want to keep an eye on that. Leveling and temperature will make a difference once you're printing directly on the bed, but the best solution is usually a model that compensates for this with a chamfer. After all, really squishing that first layer helps with adhesion and finish. A chamfer allows this without the elephant's foot.

> It has a heated bed with that "sticker/tape/thing".. Does that mean I don't need to bother with painter's tape/a glue stick/hair spray?

I just print straight to my Maker Select bed (with their version of Buildtak that you show in your photos).

Some people still add tape/glue on top of it, but I haven't found it necessary. I've printed everything straight on the bed (mostly PLA, some PETG and TPU) and haven't had a problem yet with adhesion (knock on wood).

> I plan on doing the MOFSET mod and getting a glass plate as soon as I replenish my "fun" funds next month (kinda drained it all picking this thing up).

Just my opinion - some others will disagree - but I'd put money towards the MOSFET before new filament. Maybe you don't have some of the tools and would need to buy them, but the MOSFET itself is just over $10. That's less than a roll of filament and protects the integrity of your new purchase.

u/ccai · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

It's ridiculously easy to do the mod and not that expensive (<$15). Unless you plan not to ever take your eyes off the machine, I suggest you do the mod. Even the time period you take for a bathroom break can be dangerous. My connector started smoking/melting and melted a bit of my board while I was waiting for the printer to preheat as I went out of my room to grab some water to drink.

All you have to do is remove the wires going to the bed from the labelled connector and attach it to the side of the mosfet that says hot bed, attach the smaller wires to the labelled connector and using another bit of high gauge wire that you can get from Home Depot/Lowes/local hardware store to connect it to a 12v(+) terminal on the power supply and another to the (-) terminal. All this is done with a screw driver and the included allen keys.

Or just get this all in one kit to make it even easier.

u/norefillonsleep · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

When it happened to me I put in XT60 connectors and I figured while I was at it I'd install a MOSFET.

Guide I based my replacements on;

MOSFET I installed;

BIQU Heat Bed Power Module Expansion Hot Bed MOS Tube for 3D Printer

u/kellyrx8 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

no problem! it was the first Mod I did on mine after reading that the bed heat connection is the issue with all the burnups.

good write up on the fix

here is the one I got for my maker select v2.1

might need longer wire, i did, just grabbed some at Lowes

u/PuterPro · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Hi All!
Just ran into this while doing a search. I got a v2.1 for Xmas as well.

Have fought many battles, won't go into it here, you'd be reading for hours, LOL!
But I did install the MOSFET upgrade, as well as installing a 300W power supply. One's a safety issue, the other is so I can safely run a higher temp hotend with elevated bed temps. The 200W unit they used is marginal at best (trust me, I'm an Electronics Tech for 47 years...).

Here's the MOSFET board I used:
BIQU Heat Bed Power Module Expansion Hot Bed MOS Tube for 3D Printer (About $11)

and the Power Supply: eTopxizu 12v 30a Dc Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply 360w for CCTV, Radio, Computer Project ($18 - $20, varies)

I also got some cork sheets to put under the hot bed at Michael's called ArtWall Cork Tiles 12:x 12" - used the App and got 40% off cost less then $5! I used some 3M adhesive (468MP) strips stolen from a sheet I got when I bought a Gizmodorks PEI sheet I put on a glass plate stolen from an old Canon scanner that was toast. :-) Recycling ...LOL! Nice thing was it's DEAD flat, and FREE!

Well that's all for now. Any Questions will be answered next time I drop by Reddit (which is pretty infrequently, sorry!).


u/daniel871 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Why do that when Amazon Prime has it?

This is the one I use on my Monoprice i3.

u/jj7753 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I bought the Maker Select V2 a few weeks ago, so I'll give you a dump of what I've bought so far:

MOSFET - You'll also need some 14 gauge wire, spade connectors, and something (like velcro) to mount it inside the case.

PEI Sheet - After going through tape/hairspray/glue this is what you'll end up wishing you started with. I bought some standard window glass from a big box store and had them cut it to size. I used the thermal pads at first, but I prefer just clipping it on. This way I can have 4 different glass beds to swap among.

Raspberry Pi 3 - OctoPrint is so much nicer than transferring the sd card back and forth.

Fan - DiiCooler or CiiCooler or a few others you can print out that are compatible with this fan (I think, I haven't finished printing them yet).

Y carriage plate - Not sure what the difference between this and yours is - I haven't installed mine yet).


Also ordered a couple rolls of Inand PLA from MicroCenter online.

u/jpcapone · 1 pointr/AnetA8

I ordered an A8 and I get it this Sunday. Can you give me some more detail on the 4 things you suggest upgrading?

I looked at flashing the Marlin but do I need any extra cabling to perform the flash?

Do either of these fill the prereqs for the upgrades you mention? I ordered them as they came in a package deal with the printer.

Which power supply should I order? Did I forget to mention anything? I am trying to make sure I buy all of the stuff so I am ready to build on Sunday. I am gonna get a Raspberry Pi 3 for Octoprint as I only currently have a zero W and a Pi 4 available for use.

u/DatWaggo · 1 pointr/AnetA8

Fused Switch:

The PSU has a built-in fan that kicks on and off when the PSU gets warm. I don't plan on printing things with any crazy high temperatures, so these upgrades were probably a bit overkill, but I'd rather have components that are a bit more trustworthy than what comes with a $150 kit.

u/Argh_computers · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

>Any chance you could be more specific on the dupont connectors required?

You'll need 4 pin dupont housings and dupont female connectors and a crimper for them. That's assuming you have something to strip the wires as well. You can find the dupont female pins and housings cheaper places like aliexpress, ebay, etc.. but I recommend buying a quality crimper instead of whatever is the cheapest you can find as a quality tool will make the job a lot easier. If you're really strapped for cash, there's video's of people crimping dupont connectors with pliers online instead of the crimp tool.

>So <motor><cA> => <cB><cable><cC> => <cD><RAMPS board>

The wires transfer over to the same place from melzi to ramps, and pretty much any board. You'll have a X endstop, y endstop, z endstop, then connectors for the X motor Y motor Z motor and extruder motor, and so on and so forth. A ramps guide will help you visualize what to connect where.

>Any idea how big a cable for the power?

IIRC, the stock wires at 18ga, which is fine for the ramps board since it only draws 5A for all the motors, hotend, etc. The only other larger gauge connectors are for the heatbed, which I believe are also stock 18GA. FWIW, I'd go with a external mosfet instead of using the ramps on board ones which are rated for 11A, which is just within spec of what the bed draws.

u/DinnerMilk · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Excellent information, thank you very much. Do you think it would be safe to power that bed with this power supply? It's 24V 15A 360W which I guess doesn't really leave a lot of headroom. Alternatively this one is 24V 20A 500W which I guess may be the better choice, albeit possibly somewhat overkill.

Also, would the typical MOSFET Board just be a drop in replacement for the SSR as outlined in the wiring guide? Spauda commented above and said to just wire the Heated Bed and 24V PSU through the DC/DC SSR as shown, although I am on the fence since I don't really know the difference (other than what you and others have pointed out about the SSR being from China).

Thanks again for all of the help, electrical questions make my head spin.

u/Nibb31 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Yeah, maybe my post wasn't clear.

Printer board is an MKS Gen 1.4:

Mosfet board is one of those cheap things from Amazon:

This is a DIY printer that started life as an Anet A8, but now is a mix between an AM8 mod (bed and frame) and a Prusa MK3S clone (extruder), all running Klipper and Octoprint.

Currently this external Mosfet is controlled by D7 (the onboard Mosfet output for the second extruder) and powers the bed. The hotend is on D8 (because its Mosfet is a bit beefier), the extruder fan is on D9 and the print fan is on D10.
Filament sensor and BLTouch are on D10 and D6.

I'd like to use D7 to power an enclosure fan, but to do this I need to control the external Mosfet from a different pin, ideally D4 or D5 (which are marked as "servo" pins on the pinout diagram). I've tried various other pins and combinations with +5V and GND and various resistors in between, but I can't get the Mosfet to switch.

u/semperverus · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Sounds good. Any recommendations for specific mosfets?

This one is the first one that pops up.

u/Ericr___ · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

This specific item would work right? I'm going to attribute the poor reviews and burnt circuits to user error. And I'll be directly wiring the power connections and avoid using the green connectors. Any kind of risk involving fire is too much of a risk.

u/saberToothedCat · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Yeah, I've been researching the most recommended upgrades and the mosfet is on that list. Is this all I would need for that? or are there additional screws/wires I would need as well?

u/Vanced-player · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I got the one on Amazon, this one BIQU Heat Bed Power Module Expansion Hot Bed MOS Tube for 3D Printer

u/aint_no_fag · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

There are ways to make it cheaper.

A MOSFET (basically a relay that switches the circuit for the heated bed) would be a huge upgrade.

You can flash the firmware of the board with proper security measures in place. Lookup Marlin firmware.

That would be your number one tasks and a huge safety upgrade.

There are lots of tutorials on how to do both.

u/chevyfried · 1 pointr/wanhaoi3

BIQU Heat Bed Power Module Expansion Hot Bed MOS Tube for 3D Printer

u/tehPopeExploder · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I'll start with the non-printable mods:

Replaced the PSU with a 750w ATX PSU I had lying around.
If you do this, you will more than likely need to add a power resistor to the 5v rail. I also removed all the original wires and connectors from the PSU and resoldered just what I needed with better rated wire.

Glass bed on top of the aluminum. I just went to Lowes and got them to cut a few pieces of single pane glass.

Mosfet circuit for the heated bed:

Upgraded Y Carriage:

New Belts:

Geared Pulley to replace the smooth one:

Upgraded Heated Bed, this bed heats up slow and I also lost a little bit of build volume. I plan on getting something better here very soon. Once it's up to temp it works well though.

Inductive Sensor for auto level:

Copper Tape Because the inductive sensor can't see glass I put this on the bottom side.

To get the sensor working, you'll have to change the firmware unless you only want to use it as a limit switch. The only option that i'm aware of is Skynet which is based on Marlin and works fairly well. You can find that on their facebook page:

Blue LED Extruder Fan (because the original broke). I don't remember where I got this from. I'd like to find an RGB one! ha

I added a bunch of WS2812 LEDs controlled by an Arduino at the moment, I am using OctoPi so eventually i'll have that control them but at this point they're set to UV colors because it looks cool.

Printed mods:

Frame braces:

Y Carriage Risers:
The Y carriage sits too low and will smack into the Y axis motor so I made these risers to solve that:

Y Belt Clamp: You'll need one for the new carriage, but I cannot find the one that I used.

Auto level bracket: Though I only have PLA and it kept warping so I made a metal version of it:

Anti-Z Wobble I modified this but no longer have the file, I also printed a cylinder to wedge into the hole above the lead screws.

Bearings I used:

Belt Tentioners I can't remember which ones I finally used.

I think this is everything. If I remember something else i'll post it.

u/desrtfx · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Actually, the parts are pretty standard, so it doesn't really matter where you buy from.

I bought them from various sources (electronics markets, amazon, and some local shops), so my links are just to be seen as examples:

u/DaoDeer · 1 pointr/3Dprinting


($6)Wires:For the MOFSET mod


($6)Wire spades:For the MOFSET mod

($8)Assorted M3 Bolts:You need some for a few mods and for the bolts you will inevitably strip on this cheap wonderful machine

($13)Longer assorted M3 Bolts:For a few mods

($9)M4 Bolts:For one of the mods

($9)Metric allen wrench set:Had to order one of these since metric tools aren’t common round these parts

(~$20) PLA of preferred choice- You’ll run out of the sample bit quick so go ahead and order a roll or two to be prepared. You will note some upgrades require ABS so a small spool of that to your order will also help.

($6)M3 Lock nuts:Critically needed for a simple mod

($10)Threaded rod and nuts:Please note that this item seemed difficult to find online. I recommend going to your local hardware store and getting two 5/16” rods of at least 16” in length. They should have an assortment of threaded rod in various lengths available. Also note that the pitch of the threading matches the nuts you buy. Further instructions regarding this can be seen in Azza’s Z-Axis braces below.)

($6)9mm Wrench for the nozzle: Don’t wait for your first clog, go ahead and have this on hand to remove/change the nozzle. Note to only tighten/loosen the nozzle when heated.

Below is the order of printable upgrades I recommend but I suggest you mix in a few other prints along the way because this is a hobby after all and you should be having fun. It helps to have your quality as tuned in as much as possible for some of these so be patient and keep trying if you need to.


Spool holder- temporary : Until you can mount your spool on top of the enclosure or any other personal preference.

Belt tensioner- print x2


Shielded stop button

Cable relocator : It’s a pain, but if you spend the time to do this and turn your extruder motor 90 degrees then you can get the full Z height without ruining your cables. It does involve opening all the cables to the PSU and feeding a few extra inches back through the cable chains.

Cable shroud : Looks nice if you do the cable relocator.

The following need to be printed in ABS:

M3 Bed Nut retainer: 10/10 upgrade. I know they look worse than the nice metal stock ones, but these help keep your bed level longer.


Glass bed Holder

Now that the first major round of printed upgrades is done it’s time to shift to a few more supplies to pick up to really fine tune the machine.


($5)Radial fan: For CiiCooler

($5)Glue sticksThis and a glass bed is magic

($25)Borosilicate glass 8” x 8”

($26)Y-Carriage plate upgrade: This has been a nice upgrade as I now only need to relevel the bed every couple weeks instead of every print. Check out this guide for a ‘how to’ as well as a free upgrade by shifting your Y pulley over.

($15)rechargeable dehumidifier: For keeping in the bin with your opened filaments

($9)Extruder gears: Might be able to hold off on these, but will need eventually. If for some reason you have a Maker Select with metal X-axis blocks (V1 and V2, but not V2.1) then this is a must. You can follow this guide for a how to.

($28)Metal extruder plate and lever: Not needed, but nice.

($14)Noctua 40mm fan: Not needed, but makes the printer a lot quitter. A LOT quieter.

($50)MicroSwiss All Metal Hot End: The destruction of my PTFE tube by this point pushed me to doing this upgrade. If needed you can follow this guide for replacement. Remember to tighten/loosen when the nozzle its hot.

($6)Ceramic cotton: Tore off the stock one when replacing for the all metal hot end by accident. At least its thicker than stock

Now that the printer is in its final form, its time for the enclosure which is a stacked Ikea Lack hack.


Spool holder

Pi Case

120mm fan cover

Fan grill

120mm fan PSU modification: I edited this to fit upside down since my PSU is mounted on the underside. This was nice since I blew the 40mm fan anyways so it made everything a lot quieter than before.

IKEA Lack filament guide

Webcam holder: This is one I designed specifically for the webcam I happen to have lying around. The camera mount piece can be changed out no problem though for what ever webcam you have or buy. The SketchUp file is included on Thingiverse for such purpose.


($20)2x Ikea Lack: Luckily there is one right down the street from me. I am located in North America though, so we do not have the STUVA, if you live literally anywhere else you may check in to this as an alternative.

($80)Plexi glass for enclosure: Could be cheaper alternatives, but it looks cool

($9)Foam pads for feet

($42)Raspberry Pi3: For OctoPrint. I also suggest using a different USB cable than the stock one provided by Monoprice or you will have issues.

($9)2x 120mm fans: Used for the power supply cooling and enclosure

($6)Rocker Switches so that the enclosure fan can be on for PLA, but off for ABS

($15)Dimmable LED lights

($10)8mm LED light connectors

$250 printer + $452 upgrades/parts + ~$80 PLA/ABS to date

u/loTkv · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Did anyone of you do the mosfet mod on the msp? I bought this mosfet I am wondering if it will work or will this specific cause more problems? Seeing that most people use a different mosfet for the msp.

u/b4n4n4r4m4 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Do you have a specific board that you would recommend? This was one I saw linked on thingiverse earlier:

u/hartk1213 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting