Reddit reviews Blue Sea Systems 5025 ST Blade Fuse Block - 6 Circuits with Negative Bus and Cover

Absolutely worth it. I have an Engel fridge and I originally wasn't going to do solar. But I found that If I wanted to park for more than a day or if I didn't drive at least 50 miles everyday, the battery would slowly drain down to the cutoff point within a week. I installed one 100-watt panel and I can leave the van parked for as long as i want and the battery stays charged and I never have to turn off the fridge.

I just use a continuous-duty solenoid that connects the house and main batteries when the ignition is on for alternator charging. Nothing fancy. And a sunsaver charge controller for the solar here's a link list I made for a friend who installed a similar setup:

Solar Panel:
http://www.amazon.com/Grape-Solar-GS-STAR-100W-Polycrystalline-100-watt/dp/B00CAVMMMG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1438626722&sr=8-1&keywords=grape+solar

Mounting Feet:
http://www.amazon.com/Grape-Solar-GS-ZB-Fab1-Zippity-Off-Grid/dp/B00MS8AKUM/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1438626722&sr=8-5&keywords=grape+solar

Connectors:
http://www.amazon.com/Islandoffer-Pairs-Female-Solar-Connectors/dp/B00A8TRKJW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1438633077&sr=8-1&keywords=MC4+connectors

Charge Controller (don't skimp here and don't get an MPPT controller for just a panel or three):
http://www.amazon.com/Morningstar-SS-20L-12V-SunSaver-Charge-Controller/dp/B007NNHUHI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1438633118&sr=8-3&keywords=sunsaver

Battery:
I got the x2 Power from Batteries plus. it's not bad, but the battery i should have gotten is this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Lifeline-GPL-27T-AGM-Battery/dp/B004OA25PU/ref=pd_sim_sbs_200_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=0P8HYGYQ24QVWZARFF4Z - which Batteries plus should be able to get, which means less or no shipping.

Fuse Block:
http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Blade-Block/dp/B000THQ0CQ/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1438633797&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=blue+sea+fuse

Volt meter:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BZPNICG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Solenoid:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0064MX7US/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687442&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0050I94XG&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0F2ZN9606RB53XSFR2EC

FUSE ALL THE THINGS!

You'll never go wrong putting more fuses in. Find what the item pulls, put in a fuse of just a touch over that amount. So if it pulls 13 amps of 12VDC, put in a 15A fuse in the positive (red) line going between the battery and that item. Do that for everything.

Get a fuse block. It makes it MUCH easier and looks prettier. :)

Power and ground used to go directly from radio (under the rear seat), through the firewall gasket (above driver's left foot), across the engine bay, to the battery. With inline fuses about 6 inches from the battery.

Now I have it powered slightly different, but with the same problem. I reused that same line coming from the battery, but it does not go to my radio. It goes to a distribution block, and then to my radio (FT857d).

Would it be better for me to ground using one of the chair bolts or something instead of running ground to the negative battery post? Or both?

I don't mean to hijack OP's fresh install post with my busted install's issues :-P, perhaps I should make a post of my own.

I put a fuse between the panels/charge controller and the charge controller/battery. I used this fuse holder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000THTBZO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_cyhozb0Q7812D

Also, it may be worth while to pick up a fuse block that way there you can easily add additional 12v stuff without messing with the battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000THQ0CQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_vChozbH1TGQ27

feel free to PM me/reply if you have any additional questions

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000THQ0CQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you do decide to go with an auxiliary panel, these have been working very well on my Jeep project and I wouldn't hesitate to use them on customer vehicles. I've got one routing key-on power and another hot at all times. They're surprisingly well built for being aftermarket.

Get a marine 12v distribution panel so you can have fuses. Then wire one run to some yacht lights and one run to a cigar plug and USB ports.

Quick, easy, cheap, and SAFE!

It’s made by blue sea systems. And they make a ton of different sizes.

Blue Sea Systems 5025 ST Blade Fuse Block - 6 Circuits with Negative Bus and Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000THQ0CQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PR2QCbPH5WP6S

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-5025-Blade/dp/B000THQ0CQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498570433&sr=8-1&keywords=blue+sea+fuse+block

1. I'll be using this to fuse the lights/fan:
   https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000THQ0CQ/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=28SKLWNIL5EQ8&coliid=I2HR7EF5SBDL63&psc=1
   
   
2. Will I need additional fuses in between other things? The solar kit comes with 10AWG wires in between panel-cc and cc-battery, which would leave no room for fuses unless you bought additional wires or cut them in 2. That defeats the purpose of a 'kit' doesn't it?
   
   
3. Will I need to add an addition 20-30A fuse in between battery and that fuse box I linked?
   
   Thanks!
   
   Edit: Oh yeah the battery. I decided on AGM because of 2 things: This will be installed underneath a wood drawer/bed apparatus so I wont be able to access it to fill it with water every month and also it wont be releasing gas into my camper shell where I will be sleeping.