If you want me to make it easy for you, just buy this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWUFVY8/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_dHlFub055QPJ9

If that's too much, there are maybe some other options, but that is an iron he will likely never need to replace. You can look for other products from Hakko or Weller. Adjustable temperature and availability of multiple tips are both importent features.

The irons available at RadioShack are mostly crappy, so I wouldn't recommend them.

Hakko 888D Soldering Iron. With this thing, soldering is actually fun. I look around just for things to solder with this baby.

EDIT: for reasons why it's great:

• temperature controlled: always heat your solder to just the right temp. Makes for stronger joints and you don't end up burning up all your flux. It also means when metal sucks out the heat, the controller gives it a boost so it stays hot.
  
  
• heats up in about 15 seconds.
  
  
• digital readout of current temp
  
  
• wire is very flexible. It isn't a nuisance when trying to make fine adjustments.
  
  
• pencil is very thin and easy to grip, but it doesn't get hot because the heating element is at the tip.

Some videos on soldering:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIT4ra6Mo0s

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5Sb21qbpEQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYz5nIHH0iY

In addition to the videos from /u/analog-dan https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCt3W-LdbWcGFSddiOtl1bWQ/videos, you can also watch the videos from /u/advicevice https://www.youtube.com/channel/UChbLnX8JcsN9bH4BNgJZ6wA/videos

Epoxy: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BBV46/

Solder I'd recommend: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJX6/

Additional paste flux: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00425FUW2/

Do you have a soldering station/iron? If so which one, if not would recommend the following: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AWUFVY8/

Need anything else just ask

This or that

Both are excellent entry-level products with proven track-record and replacement parts are common and cheap. They will have a hard time melting pure tin solder however, but you must be masochistic to use that crap IMO. Just stick to eutectic solder.

Cable

• If you're stateside, Anixter is our main supplier since they have branches all across the country. However we use several local vendors as well, NedCo in Las Vegas, Pacific Radio in Los Angeles, etc.
  
  
  
• EWI looks fine, I haven't ever worked with it personally, but looking at their site it looks fine.
  
  
  
• My company personally uses Belden whenever possible for installations and for inside racks. For touring and studio a mixture of Mogami and Canare for microphone, instrument cable etc. For speaker cable I personally prefer CCI/Coleman cables. I've seen those jackets take extreme beatings in all environments and all sorts of machinery run over them.
  
  For your question about 3.5mm to TS, you really just need any audio rated cable and what it's purpose is. For these I personally find it easier to purchase a stereo 3.5mm and solder on the connector I need; RCA, TS, XLR, etc.
  
  
  
• When looking you should shop around multiple vendors and get pricing for various cables at each location. See how their pricing and shipping differ.
  
  
  
• Most 22-26awg signal cable will use foil due to it's small size. Outside of that should be a twisted dump wire. Solid dump wires I've found are not the best for audio as they break easily if a cable is over extended/bent too far. For microphone, as close to 100% coverage over your other pairs is ideal. Any reputable cable manufacturer will provide this information.
  
  
  
• Microphone cable is the same cable as instrument cable. The only difference is there is an extra wire. A balanced XLR will have a dump wire/shield, a hot, and a neutral. An instrument cable only has the dump wire/shield and the neutral generally. The only real thing to look for is the cable's resistance. Digital RCA should be around 75ohms, while Analog RCA is around 20-40. Same for DMX and Audio, DMX looks the same, but is around 110ohms, whereas audio cables will be around that 20-40ohms. This is done to protect the digital transmission of their square waves more, whereas audio doesn't need to and is a sine wave.
  
  Solder
  
  
• Each solder will have a different melting point, another key thing is to look at the melting point of the wires insulation/jacket. Most Lead based solders will have a melting range of 350-450°F. Generally the silver solder will melt around 1,145°F, this is known as easy silver solder, as it is only around 56% pure, hard flow silver solder is closer to 1,375°F. What you'll typically find/use is 70/30 or 60/40 which should be around 350-375°F range. Why some people prefer Silver Solder is for clarity, it has less imperfections that disrupt the flow of the electrons. However your usual 70/30 or 60/40 is just fine as well, the majority of cables you'll work with have been made with this type of solder. One key thing to look for is that the solder you have contains a Flux Resin Core. This helps the solder flow easier and bond to other metals easier.
  
  
  
• Watch videos on youtube, make sure you have a decent Iron [I personally prefer Hakko] the Digital FX888D is a great inexpensive soldering station for beginners. The next thing to do is to practice. Practice, practice, practice. Cut off a few feet of wire and go at it, practice tinning and terminating over and over again. Another thing is to practice undoing a connection. To do this you'll want to put your tip on the joint, and then add solder with a flux resin core. Once solder melts, its melting point goes up in temperature, the flux and resin help to lower that back down to make it flow faster/easier. Then, if you don't have a solder sucker, just pull the wire out of the connection point and while the solder is still flowing tap it out onto a safe surface. This will remove the excess solder but will still make it tinned, ready for your next wire. Key point clean your tip! If your iron didn't come with a gold foil cleaner, get one, they're around $5-25 and worth every penny, here's a $5 one on Amazon. This will clean all the impurities off of your iron and make soldering easier and cleaner. If you're in a pinch and don't have one, a wet paper towel/cloth works. You want it to be wet enough that if you squeeze it with some good force water will come out of it steadily, but not so much water that it pools out when you press your iron against it.
  
  
• A station heats up very quickly, so if you have a shop, those are ideal. Having it well lit and ventilated is key, the fumes can be nasty. Additionally have the right tip on your iron for the job is key. For example, a tip meant to do 26awg signal probably isn't the best suited for then doing 10awg lines.
  
  
  
• Google, sometimes after a long day my mind blanks when making adapters for whatever I'm doing, and I just do a quick google image search. Otherwise, if you want it in book form, along with basically everything you'd need to know about the basics of tech, The Backstage Handbook.
  
  
  
• You should have the following,
  Stereo RCA to XLR Male
  
  Stereo RCA to RCA
  
  Male XLR to RCA
  
  Female XLR to RCA
  
  EP6 to NL4 and NL8, going both ways, ie One side Male Neutrik to Female EP6, and then vice-versa.
  
  1 Male to 2 Female XLR
  
  Then just a slew of various connectors to make anything that may arise.
  
  
  
• Amazon, Anixter, any electronics specialty store will have shrink tube. Be sure to check out how much it'll shrink when heated up, so shrink more than others. How to make them super clean is all up to how meticulous you are. Make sure you have a nice clean strip of the wire, and that your distance for stripping back the otuer jacket, and each wire's inner jackets is proportional to the connectors strain relief. You'll also want to make sure you sex your wire, ie, male XLR should go, Ground, Hot, Neutral when stripped Left to Right. Female XLR should start with the Neutral, then go Hot, then Ground. This will make for a cleaner look when it may be opened up, and less of a hassle when aligning the wires for soldering. For the actual soldering part you'll want to tin both your wire, and the solder point. Solder will flow to where it's hottest. By tinning these you are prepping the points to connect. You'll use less solder, and it will take less time. Once both sides are tinned, put the tip of your iron at a contact point of both the wire and the connector. Then wait a good 2-3 seconds and apply some solder. you won't need much. If you did it right the solder will melt almost instantly and then hold the iron there for another 1-3 seconds and both the solder on the wire and connector will now pool and flatten down naturally from gravity with the solder you just added. Pull your wand away and let it cool for a second or two before you let go of the wire. Shrink tube should be necessary in most XLR, TRS, RCA, NL4, connectors, but if you feel so inclined, then by all means do it. However, for this I recommend using a clear shrink tube. This will make it easy to check if something at the solder point is bad when troubleshooting a cable. For other cables such as an EP6 connector, I will always, ALWAYS recommend use of shrink tubing.
  
  
  
• Labeling depends on the context. For instals in say an audio rack, our typical scheme is U101-A, U101-B, U102-A, the U### = Rack unit number, the letter A thru B, C, D etx refers to the amp channel. For these I typically use 3/8 or 1/2 White or Yellow shrink tube labes with our Rhino Labeler. We do not however shrink them, this is done for service purposes. Depending on your angle when servicing you may not be able to read the label once shrunk, but if left unshrunk you can turn it so it can be read from wherever you are. Note, you should label both ends of the cable the EXACT same. For touring and rental you should put your name/company's info on a label of some sort and then place a piece of clear shrink tube over that. You want to make sure about 1/2-1" of the clear shrink tube carriers over the edges of your label. This will protect your label longer than if they're almost exactly the same length. It's also not a bad habit to run a piece of colored tape, label, whatever under the clear shrink tube on both ends to distinguish cable length. Every company has a different method, but the one I use is the rainbow.
  
  Red - 5ft
  
  Orange - 10ft
  
  Yellow - 15ft
  
  Green - 25ft
  
  Blue - 50ft
  
  Purple - 100ft
  
  White - 200+, one band =200, two bands = 300.
  
  Hopefully this helps you in some way, let me know if you have any other questions or follow-up to any of these responses! edits Grammar, phrasing, some links to specific items, etc.

Build Log 5: Viterbi

Highlights

• Viterbi split ortholinear 70 key keyboard from keeb.io
  
• Kailh Pro Purple Switches from NovelKeys
  
• DSA Honeywell Keycaps from PrimeKB
  
• Socketed Pro Micro controllers
  
• First personalized QMK keymap!
  
  

  Parts List
  

• 1x Viterbi PCB Kit
  
  • 2x Viterbi PCBs (Rev 1.0)
    
  • 2x Push buttons for reset
    
  • 2x 4.7kΩ resistors
    
  • 2x TRRS jacks
    
  • 78 1N4148 diodes
    
• 70x Kailh Pro Purple Switches (Tactile 50g)
  
• 1x Black PCB Viterbi Plate
  
  • 2x PCB swtich plates
    
  • 2x PCB bottom plates
    
  • 16x M2 6mm screws
    
  • 8x M2 11mm standoffs
    
  • 8x adhesive bumper pads
    
• 1x Silver Sheathed TRRS Cable
  
• 1x DSA Honeywell Keycaps
  
• 1x Red Rubber O-Rings
  
• 2x Pro Micro (ATmega32U4)
  
• 4x Mill-Max 12 Position Ultra Low Profile Socket
  
  

  Resources
  

• Nyquist Build Log
  
• An Overly Verbose Guide to Building a Let's Split Keyboard
  
• Socketing a Pro Micro
  
• A Guide to Flashing a Let's Split for Beginners (Windows)
  
• Build Log 1: Nyquist
  
  

  Tools
  

• Hakko FX888D-23BY & Flush Cutters
  
• Hakko T18D16P Tip for general purpose soldering
  
  • The tip that comes with the FX888D is either this tip or one that is extremely similar.
    
• Kester Rosin Core Solder (63/37 .020)
  
• XOOL ESD Tweezers Tools Kit
  
  • ESD-15 for most work, especially inserting the wires during controller socketing
    
  • ESD-34A for desocketing the Pro Micro controllers after they've been socketed (as a pry bar under the controller and then as a wedge between the underside of the controller and the top of sockets)
    
• Engineer SS-02 Solder Sucker
  
• NTE Electronics SW02-10 Solder Wick
  
  

  Notes
  

• The Viterbi build process is pretty much the same as the Nyquist, with the addition of 10 keys. The other difference is the placement of the two resistors, which now are only installed on the master side (the side with the USB cable, the left hand side).
  
• When flashing, I wasn't able to find eeprom files specifically for the Viterbi. I instead used the eeprom files from the Nyquist and everything seems to be working so far.
  
• Some of the keys are a bit crooked... I'm not sure if this is the switches themselves, or me somehow soldering the switches crooked.
  

If you want a no brainer, will definitely work well for you answer, just get yourself a genuine 888D

Just under $100:
http://amazon.com/dp/B00AWUFVY8

Personally I bought a half dozen $30 937D clones and they're working well for me.

Here's my teardown on the clones I bought (FWIW they're up to $40 on ebay now)

http://www.dragonflydiy.com/2014/11/30-ebay-937d-soldering-iron-teardown.html

I bought them because I need a bunch for teaching classes and couldn't afford a half dozen 888s. For just one for my own use, I'd just get an 888D.

If you have special needs like a lot of heat capacity then the JBC CD-2BB, but it's close to $500, yikes.

Hakko Fx-888d best damn soldering iron I've ever owned.

Honestly, I get most of my stuff off Amazon, but that's probably because I have Prime. I've also found allelectronics.com to be pretty decent for sourcing larger quantities of heat shrink tubing, wiring, and other stuff.

> Weller WD1

Seriously? If you're going to be dropping $400+ on a soldering station, then you buy some quality HW. JBC > Weller in precision soldering equipment.

OP is looking for something like a TS-100, or a FX-888

OP can buy cheaper if they're not planning to get into the hobby, but I'd suggest investing in a station with adjustable heat as a minimum.

Neither of those irons is temperature controlled. The best you're going to get out of either of those is guessing the temperature based on the voltage settings.

If you're willing to spend that much on a board I would highly recommend getting a better station such as the Hakko FX-888D.

IMO weller has gone the way of many. you're paying an extra $30 for the name.

i use this for everything, including SMT

This is my go to list for what you need for soldering:


hakko soldering iron w/ diagonal cutters $91

hakko diagonal cutters $4.37

solder $7

solder sucker $6

solder flux $8 check digikey

solder wick $7 check digikey

wire strippers $10

helping hands $7 check harbor freight

check for lower price

One of the hakko clone stations paired with some genuine hakko tips is probably a good compromise on price/value. Maybe someone else that's from the UK could suggest something different that's also affordable there.

I used cheap soldering irons for years. Over a decade. I always felt like an idiot, because I'd watch tutorials online and it looked so much easier, and I just couldn't seem to get the process down right.

So this year, I decided to drop some money on a proper iron - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AWUFVY8/ - and WHY OH WHY DID I NOT DO THIS A DECADE AGO. It makes ALL the difference in the world.

I cannot emphasize this enough: Spare yourself frustration, save up extra money and buy a Weller or a Hakko. It may seem like a lot of money compared to a $20 Radio Shack style soldering iron, but you're basically buying it for life.

You certainly can use that soldering gun but it won't be fun or easy because it is so large (that's what I started with and used for a few years). I'd suggest picking up a Hakko FX-888D or Hakko FX-951 if you have a desire to continue with electronics.

Definitely add more solder because it has flux in it which will clean the oxides and allow the solder to flow out. You will also need to use a bit of solder wick/desoldering braid to clean up the pad before fixing it. You'll want to get some Kester leaded solder to work with.

Watch these Pace soldering tutorials before you begin to understand the basics. Heat the pad and wire then touch the solder wire to the joint. If you add it to the tip of the gun/iron the flux will burn away and it will start to oxidize. Doing it that way certainly has it's place but it isn't for this type of work as you'll need to add extra flux to protect the joint.

My Aoyue lasted about 5 months, it was covered under warranty but all they did was send me a replacement board that I need another iron to install. Spend the extra cash and get a Hakko: http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Digital-FX888D-CHP170-bundle/dp/B00AWUFVY8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420504863&sr=8-1&keywords=hakko

Lots of great options. This is great if you change the temp a lot or forget to turn it off. This is great if you never change the temp (like me). This is great if you're on a tight budget.

A calculator: TI36X Pro, Casio fx-115ES PLUS, or HP 35s (these are the 3 best calculators allowed on the FE and PE)

If you get a graphing calculator, either get the TI-84 Plus C (which can be used any time graphing calculators are allowed), or get an HP Prime or TI Nspire CS CAS (which are WAY more powerful and useful).

Pencils: Pentel Graphgear 1000, Pentel Kerry, Rotring Rapid Pro (include an eraser such as the Sakura Foam Eraser). The rapid pro pen is also pretty popular.

If he's doing a software/computer engineering degree, get him a copy of K&R2.

If he's doing electrical/electronics engineering, he'll benefit from a nice soldering station, a multimeter, or a used oscilloscope (such as a Rigol DS1052e).

I can't give much advise for mechanical and civil. Sorry.

Oh yea, the paper is useful... especially with some pressboard report covers. They make nice notebooks (albeit expensive), and pair really really well with looseleaf textbooks.

\ The HP is more expensive, but it looks like a tool that professional engineers use when they're not in front of a computer. I ended up getting an HP prime, so I never could justify a 35s

I'm pretty new to soldering, but I picked up a Hakko FX-888d and love it. It's got 300+ great Amazon reviews and only costs $100. Any complaints I saw were about it being complicated to set the temp, but this was not my experience at all.

http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Digital-FX888D-Soldering-Station/dp/B00AWUFVY8

Edit: Yeah, the color makes it look like a toy... But I assure you it is not.

That set up will do all right.

Helping hands are good, solder looks fine (although if you do a lot of soldering you'll burn through that quickly), and the wick is fine.

One other thing you should get is some flux (probably paste or liquid, maybe someone can recommend a specific flux?). Flux makes soldering a million times easier if the parts are dirty.

Soldering iron wise, that's an alright iron. The tip it comes with is fine for large/medium components. However, consider how much soldering you plan to do. Is it a lot, possibly on small things?

Both the Weller WES51 and the Hakko FX888D are both popular, quality soldering irons. Basically, the handles are smaller (easier to control and maneuver), and the temperature is regulated (more consistent/stable). Additionally, the range of available tips with the WLC100 is not as large.

In conclusion, that's a perfectly fine setup (with the flux), but think about how much you anticipate soldering in the future and considering a higher quality soldering iron. Hope that helps.

Well, if you can use the lab and it has a scope in it then you just scored big time.

As far as $100. I would get:

(amazon links for convenience, use any supplier you wish)

• DMM (digital multimeter) - must have diode check, DC volts, AC volts, Ohms, and continuity. Extech EX330 ($50) or Equus 3320 ($20)
  
  
• clip leads for the meter such as these - these are important because you will need to take values while the amp is on, and you don't want to be poking around a live amp
  
  
• variable power/temp soldering iron - cheap one good one better one
  
  
• 60/40 leaded solder - I like this kind
  
  
• desolder braid
  
  
• rosin flux
  
  
• contact cleaner
  
  
• (de-oxit d-5)[http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S6-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU/]
  
  
• flush cutters
  
  
• solder sucker
  
  
• shrink tube of various diameters
  
  
• 92%+ isopropyl alcohol
  
  
• windex
  
  
• q-tips
  
  
• paper towels
  
  
• needle nose pliers
  
  
• nice set of phillips head screwdrivers
  
  
• standard screwdriver
  
  
• miner's headlamp
  
  
• digital camera for taking many many pictures before and during disassembly
  
  
• printer for printing service manuals
  
  
• heat gunor hair dryer
  
  
• canned air
  
  
  EDIT: Light bulb socket, 100W + 60W real light bulbs (not the hippy engery saving kind), electrical outlet - these are for making a dim bulb tester.
  
  All I can think of right now.

Unless you absolutely need it to be portable this hakko was a huge quality of life increase for my hobby building
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AWUFVY8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1456806658&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=hakko&dpPl=1&dpID=41KfFMZyi9L&ref=plSrch

I got the Hakko from amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AWUFVY8

I used these guides to help plan and build this.
https://docs.keeb.io/build-guide.html
https://github.com/nicinabox/lets-split-guide

I got the majority of my keyboard parts such as the diodes, case/plates, pcb, and TRRS jack/cable from keeb.io, and sourced the pro micro and switches from mehkee.

The Let's Split and the Nyquist are basically the same, but instead the Nyquist has the extra row, allowing numbers to be on the base layer.

Before starting the build, you'd want to get an adequate soldering iron. I didn't have the funds to get a Hakko FX888D when I got into this with my Clueboard, so I instead bought a Station 60 and a 2.4mm Chisel tip to replace the included tip. Don't forget the solder wire! I used some old solder wire that I found laying around, but something like Kester 44 63/37 solder wire will serve you well. Fairly thin solder wire around .031" will be adequate, but some people use thinner ones; it's all preference. Just avoid lead-free solder, they are a pain to solder with. If you think you will mess up, I recommend either getting some soldering wick or a desoldering pump. I heard that desoldering irons are also pretty good, but I never tried one to give a proper opinion.

Then you want to check out a tutorial regarding soldering, if you don't know how to do it already. I learned from EEVblog (warning: it's a lengthy video!), but you can probably find some other video about it.

After you have all your parts and double checked the parts list, you can start building. It's pretty much just following the guides step by step. The Let's Split guide that I linked is the most detailed for the build process, but the official Nyquist one seems to still be under construction at the time I am writing this. If you have any trouble, you can contact bakingpy here on reddit or on keeb.io, or just make a thread here or on /r/olkb. Someone will help answer your questions!

Without the keycaps, I spent around $75 on the project. Overall, around $150.

Edit: cost

I agree with pretty much everything said here except I prefer a different iron:

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Digital-FX888D-Soldering-Station/dp/B00AWUFVY8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1501705119&sr=8-2&keywords=hakko+fx888d

Hakko FX-888D. Not inexpensive but not the most expensive either. One of the best irons I have ever worked with, was a night/day experience compared to prior cheapo irons I'd used in the past.

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Digital-FX888D-Soldering-Station/dp/B00AWUFVY8

the hakko fx888d has been the standard for budget soldering irons for years

the hakko 888 is the be all end all:

http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Digital-FX888D-CHP170-bundle/dp/B00AWUFVY8/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1421042769&sr=1-1

best soldering iron ever.

Heated PCBs are hard anyway because they are a weird combination of heatsinking and thermally insulative. If you are ever going to solder a second thing, just get a good Hakko or something. I have the analog version of the linked iron, and love it. I leave it at 350C constantly ... it gets to temp in like 20 seconds and holds it rock solid.

http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Digital-FX888D-CHP170-bundle/dp/B00AWUFVY8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421772043&sr=8-1&pebp=1421772044939&peasin=B00AWUFVY8

Also:
http://www.amazon.com/SRA-Soldering-Flux-Low-Solids-No-Clean/dp/B008OC0E5M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421772121&sr=8-1&pebp=1421772121985&peasin=B008OC0E5M

I'd highly suggest you plunk down and get both. You'll feel like a wizard from now on with soldering. For the flux pen, just drown your connections, wire, pads, etc in flux before soldering. Within a very generous reason, you cannot overflux things, and it makes the solder actually behave like it should. It globs where it's supposed to, doesn't make those stupid little peaky points that bridge everywhere, and so on.

You can't go wrong with a Hakko FX-888D soldering station, about $100. It's good quality, hard to kill, and he will use it.

If you already own a couple of customs, go Hakko or go home.

Pick that up, and some small gauge Kester 63/37, and you're good to go.

I have a Hakko FX-888 and I love it. I don't think you should worry about a digital or analog display.

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Digital-FX888D-Soldering-Station/dp/B00AWUFVY8

The Hakko FX-888D runs $100 on Amazon.

I bought this one for $30 and found temp settings in the reviews. Setting marker 3.25-3.75 gets you right around 350°C, coincidentally.

I also bought that cheap-ass Valstar solder sucker with free wick. From what I read about the wick, it needs flux to get the solder flowing into it. The solder sucker sucked. I ended up taking a Dremel deburring bit to create a divot in the metal housing to capture the little arms so it wouldn't spring apart when I hit the plunger release. After that, it worked pretty well, though I usually got a pretty good seal right over the solder and switch leg - no desoldering controllers. I did have one switch leg that was bent over the contact, which required some physical assistance to move while the solder was melted before I could clear it.

Desoldering wick looks like it works great and would work for your situation, if you use it right.

Well, an adjustable soldering station is the minimum, and there are a few $20 soldering stations that are OK for occasional use; For $80-$100 you'll get something that'll last a lot longer :-)


http://www.amazon.com/Electronix-Express-0603DZ99-Soldering-Continuously/dp/B00IOVN0SQ/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1463187980&sr=8-17&keywords=soldering+station / http://www.amazon.com/MPJA-Mini-Solder-Station-ZD-99/dp/B008B86XOK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1463188072&sr=8-2&keywords=soldering+station+mini

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AWUFVY8?keywords=hakko%20fx-888&qid=1444332307&ref_=sr_1_2&s=industrial&sr=1-2

You can even get soldering irons for under $2 at Aliexpress. Enough to occasionally solder two wires together; But especially the cheaper soldering irons have horribly build-quality and tips that don't last long. :-)

Also, i recently bought a small tip no-name one for school use, http://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Station-Solder-Adjustable-Heating/dp/B017VYC9GU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1463188072&sr=8-3&keywords=soldering+station+mini (I don't know if this one is actually identical), which works surprisingly well (at least better than the $20 ones).


For your child: http://mightyohm.com/blog/2011/04/soldering-is-easy-comic-book/

.

Electronics: Really do get "getting started in electronics", such a good introduction, the comic-y drawings make it easy to understand how and why electronics work.

I bought this... works great. Heats up in like 30 seconds.

http://www.amazon.com/Digital-FX888D-CHP170-bundle-cutter/dp/B00AWUFVY8/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1397606411&sr=1-2&keywords=hakko+soldering+station

a used hakko 936 or weller soldering station will work. also any decent weller pencil solderer will work.

i'm gonna go with what everyone else says: get a decent temp adjusting iron. it makes a world of a difference...add to that a small chisel tip (usually not provided on a cheap pen iron)...such much easier and enjoyable soldering. though, its not worth spending 80-300 dollars on a soldering iron for one project..

i use/recommend:

• an x-tronic station/iron $90 sponge+light/magnifier+tips+replacement heat element
  
  
• a hakko soldering tip cleaner $10
  
  also another good affordable iron:
  
  
• hakko fx-888 station/iron $90 sponge+cleaner
  
  everyone says weller...and its because they dropped the money on one and want other people to do the same haha...if you have the money, sure go for it. if not, many stations in the 80-100 range are excellent quality to begin on.
  
  also get a helping hand, tweezers, needle nose pliers, snips, and maybe a wire stripper.

I'm not sure about that one, but I can say don't buy this one from Circuit Specialists. It's what I've been using for years for the odd project here and there and it was always frustrating. I don't have enough experience to have known why it was so difficult, but I finally decided I was due for an upgrade and I got this Hakko soldering station, and the difference is amazing. Mainly, it gets hot and stays consistently hot, which it turns out makes things much easier. Another big difference is the tip, which perhaps would have been an easy upgrade to my old iron if not for the inconsistent heat. But I notice that the one you linked has a sharp slender tip, and I've learned that the chisel shaped tip that came with the Hakko is much better for heat transfer since you can apply more of the tip's surface area.

Step 1: Buy a multimeter. I prefer the Fluke 87v http://amzn.com/B0002YFD1K Sure it's $387, but it'll pay for itself eventually.

Step 2: You'll need to take apart the charger. A good set of screwdrivers would definitely help. http://amzn.com/B000NZ5QG0 It's only $40. Wiha maybe isn't the best, but I like them and they do offer a 100% satisfaction guarantee.

Step 3: Once you open it up, you can start testing it with the multimeter. Inevitably, however, you'll probably have to solder something. Hakko is a popular brand for good reason. This one is under $100 AND it comes with wire cutters: http://amzn.com/B00AWUFVY8

Step 4: After you put it back together and find out that it's still not working, buy a replacement charger.

Well I just bought this one that I haven't tried yet. It has amazing reviews and although it looks like a pre-K toy it most certainly isn't.

I use the Hakko FX888D:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AWUFVY8/

And this solder sucker:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002MJMXD4/

I heat up the solder and suck it up with the solder sucker one pin at a time.

In case anyone cares, I ordered this.

The digital version is somewhat cheaper and comes with a free flush-cutter:

http://www.amazon.com/Digital-FX888D-CHP170-bundle-cutter/dp/B00AWUFVY8/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1374602448&sr=1-1&keywords=Hakko+FX-888

This one is absolutely fantastic from what I've seen/read. The only problem is that you're on Europe, but neverthless you should definitely get a station with temperature control. I'd also recomend you to find a digital one.

hakko 888d

I thought I was bad at soldering.. Turns out I had a bad soldering iron.

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Digital-FX888D-Soldering-Station/dp/B00AWUFVY8/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1483152293&sr=1-3&keywords=hakko+888d

Thanks. I have a Hakko 888D and a big ass magnifying glass. I just ordered a USB microscope (non-cheap, it has a bed for raising and lowering height). Thanks for the videos.

AND - check THIS out! I just used a thinner stencil, and followed your other instructions. Ignore the blobs to the left, I wasnt concentrating on those. This is really exciting.

Don't cheap out on an iron. It's one thing if you absolutely can't afford something from hakko or weller, but if you're going to be doing any amount of soldering a better iron is going to be worth the money, even if you've got to save up a bit.

For someone who anticipates doing a decent amount of electronics, I'd generally recommend the Hakko FX888.

Advantages:

• Heats up in moments (not 10 minutes). This is good because it means the iron recovers more quickly.
  
• Build quality. I've been using an old Hakko 928 that I received second-hand since like, 2006-7 and haven't even needed to replace a tip

https://www.amazon.com/Bundle-Soldering-Station-CHP170-cutter/dp/B00AWUFVY8

https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4

Also get some flux, some good solder, and desoldering wick.

this is the cheapest one I would ever recommend anyone buy

https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC


this is the one I would recommend to anyone who who repairs stuff on a daily basis and wants something a little more professional

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Digital-FX888D-Soldering-Station/dp/B00AWUFVY8

I think if you're able to financially, you should try and get something more in the mid-range. I have a feeling that this 15 dollar iron is going to be wildly inconsistent in keeping it's temp up and make it extremely difficult for you to get good solder joints. I would recommend something like this.

As far as other accesories go, I would grab a "Helping Hands" a head band magnifier and some nice small tweezers.

I second the Hakko. Heats up quickly and built sturdy! Link to the specific model I have:

http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Digital-FX888D-CHP170-bundle/dp/B00AWUFVY8/

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006HJSIW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
I personally enjoyed it!

http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Digital-FX888D-Soldering-Station/dp/B00AWUFVY8/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1457518303&sr=1-2&keywords=hakko+fx-888
And this is the soldering station i used.

Hakko Digital , I have this exact one and its lasted me three years of EE labs. The ones they sold at the school shop are terrible and are probably borderline dangerous. Just remember to protect your tip!

• Save yourself a few bucks and get the Hakko / Snip Combo.
  
• I beat the shit out of my 10 yr old radio shack fire starter, and now i LOVE my Hakko. To be prepared I found this video on how to take care of tips. I've been doing this guys method from the start and HOLY BALLS my tip is still in good condition after several months of use. I even bought extra tips from HK thinking i was going to need them. LOL.. maybe down the road or precision soldering.
  
• I know you said you have hex drivers, but i picked up this set due to my original hex set stripping. The Titanium apparently keeps from stripping.. have yet to strip them, so we'll see. Also good to have something at the bench, and an on the go set for the field. I actually have a multi-tool from HK for the field.. it's not titanium but it works.
  
• I also have a multi-tool ratcheting hex nut driver for my props.
  
• zip ties
  
• blue lock tight for motors
  
• personally i have yet to use or need a heat gun, if it's for shrinking heat shrink i simply use a lighter.
  
• little baggies for small parts. I label mine where these parts came from but not necessary.. e.g. Cobra motors, Naze32, Strix frame, etc.
  
• i picked up a cheap helping hands from Harbor Freight for like $3.. it comes in handy.
  
• Lipo Checker.. i personally got a Hyperion EOS Sentry 3 for $11.
  
• XT60 male/female connectors
  
• 12/14/18/20/22/26 AWG wire..
  
• Car bulb for smoke stopper.. this should be the FIRST thing you build.. it's saved me sooooo many times.
  
• electrical tape.. lots and lots of electrical tape.
  
• double sided tape.. foamed/padded
  
  probably more.. but all i can think of right now..
  
  
  

Likely the tip is contacting the AC live. That thing is an electrocution waiting to happen. Bin it and complain :)

If you absolutely must cheap out on a soldering iron get this one at an absolute minimum. Can take a lot of abuse, delivers enough power for a beginner and most importantly is safe.

Then save up for one of these.

As a builder, if I didn't already have one, I'd be jazzed as hell if someone got me one of these.

>will this soldering iron do:
>
> https://www.amazon.ca/Bundle-Soldering-Station-CHP170-cutter/dp/B00AWUFVY8/ref=sr_1_10?gclid=CjwKCAjwzJjrBRBvEiwA867byrf2CO2v74Zq8TKN4jPpp7bf4BwLl4NvTcrNgbMfunTmJb3ziP5QDRoCVdMQAvD_BwE&hvadid=208372446373&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9001405&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=6614975178178446183&hvtargid=aud-748921816227%3Akwd-298023941695&hydadcr=23342_10093192&keywords=hakko+fx-888d&qid=1566999351&s=gateway&sr=8-10
>
>is this a good power supply:
>
> https://www.amazon.ca/Variable-Supply-LETOUR-Adjustable-Alligator/dp/B07KS45YNM/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=DC+power+supply&qid=1566999570&s=gateway&sr=8-2
>
>
>
>will this one do?
>
> https://www.amazon.ca/SainSmart-Handheld-4-Channel-Analyzer-Programmable/dp/B07FXDWMKN/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=logic+analyzer&qid=1566999713&refinements=p_76%3A3276484011&rnid=3276483011&rps=1&s=gateway&sr=8-7

Get a real soldering station. $100 or so for a nice Hakko.

http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Digital-FX888D-Soldering-Station/dp/B00AWUFVY8