Reddit reviews BYB - 150W 110V Ceramic Infrared Heat Emitter Brooder Coop Pet Infrared Lamp Bulb, Black
We found 15 Reddit comments about BYB - 150W 110V Ceramic Infrared Heat Emitter Brooder Coop Pet Infrared Lamp Bulb, Black. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
☀ Perfect for high humidity terrariums; lasts up to 10,000 hours☀ Use only with a porcelain socket (E26 socket). To avoid scald, please wait at least 1 hour of cool down after turn it off☀ Voltage: AC 110-120V; Power: 150w; Material: Ceramic, Metal, NiCrAl☀ This non-light emitting heater bulb offers an excellent 24 hours heat source and will thoroughly heat any reptile without the disturbance of an additional light source☀ It will also increase the ambient air temperature in the terrarium. Infrared heat penetrates the scales and skin tissue, promoting health and healing as it widens the blood vessels and increases blood circulation.
I've been told that heating pads aren't good because they don't heat the air well enough and a failure could burn your hedgie, so I stick with a lamp.
And that's it!
At night time, you want it to be night time. Namely, as dark as you can make it in the cage. We are keeping ours facing away from lights that might get turned on late at night, which should hopefully keep things dark for our dragon.
As others have said, your concern at night isn't giving them light, it's keeping them 'warm'. Not at hot as daytime, but not letting things fall below 18C (65F). If your house does get that cold, you need a non-light emitting heat element for your vivarium.
You have a few choices there. Personally I've gone with a ceramic heat emitter. Here is an example of one off Amazon. Don't let their cheesy graphics fool you, these emit zero visible light. Make sure your dome fixture is up to the task! The one i linked is a 150W device. You will want to be sure that your dome light/housing and vivarium are able to deal with that heat!
Another alternative is to use an under cage heating element. Something like a flex-watt or the like just to give a gentle radiant heat over the whole cage. I'm not as familiar with this solution, so I cannot comment much on it's use. Just make sure your cage can take the heat, and that you aren't cooking things on the inside!
Awesome on you for reaching out to learn more and give your lizard better care! I wish you all the best as you upgrade your vivarium!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HFNZ59Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521244990&sr=8-1&keywords=che+bulb+150+watt&dpPl=1&dpID=51CtCt4oNLL&ref=plSrch
Amazon has them sale also! But yes yours will work :)
Try forest floor for humidity issues. It's great bc when humidity falls you can mix a cup of water in it
These are terrible. For snakes, you want to ditch the coloured bulbs & go for ceramic emitters (http://www.amazon.com/BYB-Ceramic-Infrared-Emitter-Brooder/dp/B00HFNZ59Q) in a porcelain clamp lamp such as http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Deluxe-Porcelain-8-5-Inch/dp/B0002AQCXM/ attached to a stand such as http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptile-Stand-Economy/dp/B000HG76B8 (highly recommended as ceramic emitters are a large fire hazard, reaching over 700f) . Exo terra terraniums such as http://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Short-Terrarium-12-Inch/dp/B008N9LYJ6 are great for beginner snakes which don't have unusually high humidity requirements (mesh tops found on glass tanks let out lots of humidity compared to e.g. plastic tubs with air holes melted via soldering iron). While the ceramic emitter will raise the ambient temperature, your snake will also want a very warm spot to go to for belly heat to aid digestion, so a heat mat such as http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiTherm®-Heater-Medium/dp/B0002AQCL4/ attached to a thermostat such as http://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-ETL-Certified-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S/ is highly recommended. The thermostat is not optional as heat mat's reach over 105f which can be fatal. As for supplementary light in e.g. winter, snakes have no special requirements as compared to other reptiles for uva/uvb, so any desk lamp or room lighting would suffice. As for decoration, snakes don't care. Hides can be made out of cereal boxes, butter containers etc, substrate can be newspapers, shredded tissue paper (not shredded paper as it causes cuts), or you can research more professional substrate for your specific snake (beware the earthy substrate which can cause impactation/death if ingested, also wood chips can harbour mites - simple paper is often better!). As for monitoring humidity/temperature within the tank, the analogue ones suck. I would recommend a digital one such as http://www.amazon.com/Avianweb-Digital-Thermo-Hygrometer-Black/dp/B00U2S6JSC/ - even if 10% out as per reviews, they are better than analogues which are 20-30%+ out and get more inaccurate over time. Finally, not required, but useful is an ir gun such as http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-774-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00837ZGRY/ so that you can get a sense of the surface temperatures around the tank that your snake is crawling across, and to ensure your hot hide is within parameters and not lethally exceeding 105f.
OPULENT SYSTEMS 24"x24"x48"... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JNQXMRT?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
AmazonBasics 3-Shelf Shelving... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZAV8KH?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
BaoGuai Reptile Mister... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PLFC8X4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
BYB - 150W 110V Ceramic Infrared... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HFNZ59Q?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Simple Deluxe Clamp Lamp Light... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E9IY6US?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Inkbird Digital Pre-Wired Outlet... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FQKXRXA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Since the other person couldn't give you approx prices for beardies, I can do that!
​
I'll repeat this at the beginning, but do not buy starter kits. It's tempting. Do not buy starter kits. They will have items that are dangerous to beardies.
Setup:
Terrarium - Very basic setup. I've seen this brand up to $190 locally, but of course it's cheaper online. ***Note: It's not suggested you get this size enclosure immediately, unless you're rescuing or purchasing a young adult or adult. Hatchlings can live happily in a 20gal glass tank for their first 9mo or so, but they grow quickly!
Substrate - Paper towels, newspaper, or ceramic or stone tile. I spent $8 on slate tile and broke it to fit my terrarium. All other options are dangerous to beardies in some way or another. No sand. No repticarpet. No gravel.
Light fixture - $37, but if you look around you can find something non-branded for much cheaper than this. Must be a bare bulb visible, no cover to diffuse light. I used to have a 4ft shop light fixture, but went down to an 18" fixture just for the cheaper price of the bulbs. Which comes to...
UVB bulb - $20, replaced every 6 months. Very important to replace regularly.
Heat lamp dome - $12
Ceramic heat emitter - $12.
Reptile calcium - $2-5
Food dish - $5 max?
Plus whatever decor you want. Most people go for hammocks, a hide, fake plants. Real plants aren't suggested and will either be destroyed or eaten, and many are poisonous. Beardies do not need a water dish (too much humidity is actually bad for them) and do not frequently drink from standing water, so owners usually bathe them weekly to give them opportunity to drink their fill.
Baby bearded dragons eat about 80% live food and 20% plants. By the time they're adults (about 18-24mo) they transition to 80% plants and 20% live food. How much you spend on food will vary depending on what you're buying for their staple, but I would buy a butternut squash for probably $2 or so, dice it up, and freeze it. My guy loved it. I'd supplement with other foods on the safe food list, a mixture of fruit and veggies.
Say about $5 per 2 weeks for live food for a baby and however much for veggies. Thankfully for the veggies, anything your beardie doesn't want to eat, you can, so I don't count it as much haha
While beardies DO have an expensive setup (like most reptiles), their actual maintinence costs are fairly low and their adorable derpiness is absolutely worth the initial cost! They can live up to 15 years or so - my boy, Warra, was 12 when I had to put him down due to an inoperable tumor in his mouth. It's been close to two years since I've had one, and I miss having beardie compansionship every day! I'm slowly succumbing to the urge to get a new baby...
​
Edit: I wrote all of this, and forgot the price of the beardie...... Beardies can range anywhere from $60 to $500, depending on whether you're looking for a normal beardie, or a morph!
definitely want to leave the heat lamp on at all times. is it light emitting, and you're worried about the light?
this is what i've been using with success (the lamp it fits in must have a porcelain socket or it will burn itself out prematurely): BYB - 150W 110V Ceramic Infrared Heat Emitter
So I'm a first-time grower, ambient temperatures are currently in the 50s, and what I'm (about to be) doing is somewhat unconventional. I'm offering it as an idea but I'm also hoping to get some critical input. Right now I've got grain jars (destined for a monotub) colonizing on my dresser, using a 1500W space heater to keep my entire room around 80F when I'm home. This isn't my long-term plan, though.
I was considering a heat pad, controlled by a thermostat, but I was concerned about overheating the bottom of the substrate. For all I know, these fears may be completely unfounded, so shroomers feel free to call me an idiot. Anyway, here's what I'm doing instead. (Same idea for heating both my spawn jars and my mono.)
I purchased the following:
The idea is to have a 150W ceramic heat emitter suspended above the tub (or tray of jars). Direct radiant heat is apparently not good for our friends, and I don't know how well a transparent polypropylene lid will absorb the IR, so I'll toss some cotton garments on top of the lid to absorb the heat and conduct it gently into the tub. The thermostat's sensor will be embedded in the substrate, and I'll use temperature strips placed at various points to "calibrate" it.
Given that this will be in a confined closet and the heat will be focused on my grow, I'm hopeful that 150W will be enough, at least to reach a decent fruiting temperature. And I figure this solution will be gentle on the little guys, won't dry the air, and won't pose a fire hazard. But I haven't heard much about people going this route, which leads me to wonder if there's a flaw I've failed to consider...
Edit: MY IDEA SUCKS. In the close confines of my closet, the 150W bulb didn't take long to start melting the lid of my tub. I went and bought a $40 radiator at Home Depot like a normal human being.
I have a 23cu ft upright freezer I use as a ferm chamber and I heat it with one single ceramic bulb. I can even maintain over 100 deg F while kettle souring with it. One like this one.
Zilla Reptile Terrarium Covers... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QFQ30K?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Exo Terra Repti-Glo 5.0 Compact... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00101JI2Y?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
BYB - 150W 110V Ceramic Infrared... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HFNZ59Q?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
REPTIZOO Dual Lamp Fixture for... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CWKXYPP?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
MUST Swap the UVB bulb every 6 months.
You can buy or make one on the cheap, so why not? I used one of these with one of these that I wired up. I've also experimented with just using a small space heater, but I'm not sure how safe that is. It also tended to put out way more heat than I needed.
This is what I did. Also, these work great and don't produce light if you have glass fermentors and are worried about "light struck" off flavors (but make sure your base can handle 150W): https://www.amazon.com/BYB-Ceramic-Infrared-Emitter-Brooder/dp/B00HFNZ59Q
Then I put a small computer fan in in the chest freezer to circulate air and create a breeze against the fermenter to force convective heat transfer.
​
Maybe I'm not quite following, but wouldn't you use something like this bulb:
https://www.amazon.com/BYB-Ceramic-Infrared-Emitter-Brooder/dp/B00HFNZ59Q
plugged into this to secure it:
https://www.amazon.com/Simple-Deluxe-Listed-Aluminum-Reflector/dp/B01E9IY6US
with one of the wires cut and running through this to switch it on and off:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E0NTPP4
I have read that these ceramic heat lamps work well too with a temperature controller. Has anyone had experience using them?
BYB - 150W 110V Ceramic Infrared Heat Emitter Brooder Coop Pet Infrared Lamp Bulb, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HFNZ59Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GW0JAbQAFR4F7
Zilla Premium Reflector Dome, Black 5.5" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TZ1XH0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RZ0JAbQSB8WYF
Edit - reread the post, this probably doesn’t make sense to use without a chamber... but I think it’s supposed to be a good cheap option if you do get a fermentation chamber.
>There are some good reasons for using incandescents
I agree.
>Also, for certain applications, incandescents are necessary, such as providing ancillary heat to dehumidify an enclosed space.
Not really. If the purpose is making heat, incandescents are actually some of the worst ways to do it because their lifetime is unpredictable and short.
Anyway, I'm not really knocking on people using incandescents per se, but I anecdotally know lots of fox news conservative types and when told that LED can save them lots of money, it's either: (a) fuck those dirty liberals and I'll keep using them to piss those fuckers off or (b) same as (a) but they don't want to come out and say that and so they make up ridiculous/faulty reasoning that isn't believable in the slightest.
I've seen maybe 2-3 applications total where incandescents were the best solution to a lighting problem, and they were fairly esoteric. I've also been told by people that they prefer the color of incandescents, but I've yet to see someone say that actually correctly pick out the LED consistently in a side by side lamp-shade test.
Anyway, I don't really give a shit. If someone wants to be stubborn or has an axe to grind, I'm not going to get in their way. I'd prefer they just be honest about it rather than make up stuff or regurgitate wrong second hand information.
>oops, nobody thought about how those faggoty LEDs wouldn't produce enough heat to melt off snow and ice
I'm an engineer. I assure you that they thought of it. What is more likely is that the way they were testing for it didn't take into account very specific types of precipitation that happen to build up very well in low-heat environments (or they couldn't easily replicate it in a test cell). That kind of build-up, despite what the media reports, was actually very atypical. It happened much less than cases where the standard lights just burned out, but obviously the media doesn't report on burned out traffic lights because everyone was used to that.