Reddit reviews CAIG DeOxit Cleaning Solution Spray, 5% spray 5oz

There might still be water under the die, I'd spray it down with some deoxit (a lot of deoxit) then spray the card thoroughly with canned air (make sure you get all of the deoxit out from under the die). Then let it sit for a day, then try it again.

https://www.amazon.com/DeOxit-Cleaning-Solution-Spray-spray/dp/B0002BBV4G

> It's really scratchy sounding when i mess with the knobs

buy a can of this: https://www.amazon.com/DeOxit-Cleaning-Solution-Spray-spray/dp/B0002BBV4G

It's an interesting amp. Appears to be an early form of surround sound (or possibly quadraphonic?)

Likely just a dirty pot. Try some contact cleaner like deoxit D5. Spray it into the mechanism (not down the shaft) and work the pot back and forth. If that doesn't clean it up, just replace the pot.

I repair GBA triggers all the time for a local video game shop. Buy some Deoxit D5 and spray a small amount into the trigger, then just press the button a bunch and qtip any excess that comes out of the trigger. If the trigger button is really bad, it might need a couple of cleaning sessions to get working really good again.

How many times a day have you seen, "I just spilled Xxxxx on my keyboard ZOMG what do I do"?

http://www.reddit.com/r/keyboards/comments/wqotj/my_rosewill_mechanical_keyboard_broke_after_one/

I assume you already have some canned air.

You need THIS as well.
http://www.amazon.com/DeOxit-Cleaning-Solution-Spray-spray/dp/B0002BBV4G

volume pot needs cleaning for sure. it will probably solve your main problem too.

http://www.amazon.com/DeOxit-Cleaning-Solution-Spray-spray/dp/B0002BBV4G

open the amp, and try to aim the nozzle to get inside the back of the volume dial, then turn the volume dial forward and backwards many times.

might want to use it on the relay contacts while you at it.

This is ridiculous for an $8 flashlight. You should complain and insist they replace it. The squeaky nail wheel gets the greasy pounding.

These cheap lights often have crappy contacts, and what you describe happens a lot. The good news is that they're electrically extremely simple. Except for the driver (the circuit board that regulates the voltage and current from the battery to the LED,) it's about as simple as a circuit can get, so it's a good device to learn on.

I have several cheap flashlights, ranging from a few bucks to ~$30. Many of them have poor contacts in at least one place and exhibit exactly the behavior you describe. A simple flashlight consists of the following basic parts:

• Battery/batteries. This is where you keep your electrons.
  
  
• Conductors. This could be wires, and the body of the light is often used to carry your electrons.
  
  
• The emitter. The LED(s), often mounted on a heat sink of some kind so it doesn't burn up.
  
  
• The driver. This is a circuit board that regulates current and provides the logic for what the switch does.
  
  
• The switch. Turns the light on/off, sometimes cycles through modes. In cheap lights, sometimes does nothing.
  
  
  If you took a battery and an LED, and connected them, it might light up, if the battery let out electrons at the right rate, and with the right pressure. It might melt the LED. It might not be enough to light the damned thing at all. LEDs have needs, just like women. You must (well, should,) give them the right voltage (electron "pressure,") and current (electron "volume,") and, as we all learned from Geordi LaForge, if it doesn't work, you might need to reverse the polarity.
  
  Batteries and LEDs have polarity--they both have a positive and a negative side. Light emitting diodes (and diodes in general,) only allow electrons to go through them in one direction. That's most of their job. The glowing brightly thing is just a side gig. If you connect two AAA batteries up to a 3 volt LED, and you don't get the polarity wrong (50/50 chance of getting it right without looking,) the LED will make light. (And heat. More on that later.) If the polarity is backwards, nothing will happen because fuck you, I'm a diode. I only go one way.
  
  If your battery doesn't put out the right voltage (the unit of electrical pressure) or amperage (the unit of electrical current,) you want some way of stepping those things up or down. The driver circuit does that. Better drivers are called "constant current" drivers; they'll keep pumping out the same current until the battery drops below a critical level. That means that your flashlight will be the same brightness (more or less) from the time you pop in a new battery to the time when the battery croaks.
  
  Some driver circuits are very efficient, and others suck balls, wasting some of your battery's precious electrons on stupid shit, like lipstick and shoes. Different LEDs also have different efficiencies, converting energy into heat and light in differing proportions. High efficiency LEDs turn more of your electrons into light, and less into heat. There will always be some energy wasted as heat, that's just how the universe works. An example of a very efficient LED is the XM-L2, made by a company called Cree. They kind of rock, and flashlights that use good Cree LEDs usually rock.
  
  All of the stuff I've mentioned so far is probably stuff that you can't fix (at least not yet.) The following stuff is stuff that you can fix.
  
  Conductors: This usually includes stuff like the battery contacts (which may be a spring, or flat tabs,) the body of the flashlight (usually connected through its threaded parts,) some wires (sometimes connecting the switch, the driver, and the LED.) The switch is also a conductor, but it only conducts in a specific position.
  
  The first thing to do is to identify the electrical path. It'll be something like: from the battery, through the switch, through the body of the light, to the driver board, back through the top of the battery. You need to test (or at least mess around with, AKA "experiment with,") each place where there's a connection. Each connection should be solid and uninterrupted, and if it has contacts (places where two conductors meet,) they should be clean, and firmly touching the mating contact. It's really a good idea to get yourself at least a cheap multimeter (an electrical test meter.) It makes a huge difference in fixing electrical things.
  
  Here are some examples of stuff to check. Contacts can be cleaned with a pencil eraser, or with Caig DeOxit, if you're fancy.
  
  
• At the bottom of the battery: are springs nice and strong, putting good, hard pressure on the battery? Clean them, and the battery ends. Maybe stretch the spring so the battery is held more tightly.
  
  
• At threaded parts of the body: Are threads clean and free of oils? Do the threads mate tightly? This can be hard to see--it can feel tight, but not be making a great electrical connection. Here, a multimeter can help, though you could also just use a battery and light. Disassemble the entire light until you have just the body. Screw it together, and make sure that a battary & light connected through the top & bottom provides good conductance. A meter can tell you the "resistance," ie. how well or poorly the body is conducting electricity. (Should be almost zero resistance.)
  
  
• At top of the battery: Is the bump making good, solid contact with the driver board (or top contact.) Clean contacts.
  
  
• Wires on driver board -- are they solidly in place? A meter can help test the connection here. Resoldering may be in order, but you need to be careful not to damage the board or LED with excessive heat.
  
  
• Wires to the LED -- as above.
  
  Now... the switch. If the switch is bad, you can fix it if you're really enthusiastic, but usually people just swap them with a good one. To test this, use a piece of wire to bypass the switch. "Shorting" it out--this cuts the switch out of the electrical path. (You probably need to do this with the bottom removed, so you need to replace the threaded body connection with another wire.) If everything works fine with wire replacing the switch, you may have a bad switch.
  
  My caffeine level just dropped, so I'm stopping. Hope that helps you figure out what to Google, anyhoo. Take your light completely apart and test all the parts. Learning how isn't hard at all. All the answers are one the web!
  
  Have fun!

Wiring diagram: http://guzzitek.org/schemas_electriques/pb/750/V7Racer_Special_Stone_WiringDiagram.pdf

I would start at the headlight and check each connection, relay and fuse. Pull the fuses, separate the connections and spray them with contact cleaner. I like this stuff. https://www.amazon.com/DeOxit-Cleaning-Solution-Spray-spray/dp/B0002BBV4G/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=CAIG+DeoxIT+5%25+Spray+Contact+Cleaner&qid=1554688230&s=gateway&sr=8-3

copy pasta from an old post about the same issue:

Ok this my or may not work, but it's how people fixed mis-firing buttons on Rane 57s (the 2nd and 3rd edition had issues with the buttons due to regulatory changes in construction materials or something).
First, grab a can of deoxit spray - should be able to get one in your local radio shack or something.

Now the hard part - you'll have to take apart your controller (note - don't do this if you're still under warranty - if you are, send it back to get repaired). Once you get the top off, remove the buttons if you can and find the trigger for the button underneath the rubber/plastic. I have no idea what it would look like, but there should be able to spray into the trigger. Work the spray around the trigger and then let the whole thing dry for a couple of hours.


Put the whole thing back together and see if that helps.

Have you tried to DeOxit?

Thanks for the detailed reply!

> I'd recommend using www.vinylengine.com[1] to search both makes and models. What you'll find is that the PL-600 was one of the finest, highest performing with top specs, full auto turntables ever made. Then look at the specs for the Dual and you'll have your answer. I don't mean to step on the toes of Dual fans, but it's not even close.

I have heard the PL-600 is a gem. I was pretty pleased to pick it up. Now, I will say, once I got the Dual up and running it was a really warm sounding table. It has an old Shure Hi-Track head on it (which I believe is now branded the M91E) whereas my PL-600 has
a brand new M92E on it. I'm not experienced enough to know if that has any real bearing on it.

> It sounds to me like your PL-600 needs a new tonearm belt (easy to find through Google) and some Caig DeoxIT sprayed under the buttons. The power button on my PL-600 stuck and that solved it.

The tonearm belt diagnosis is indicated by the failure of the arm to move and the motor hum I hear from the area? Also is this the cleaner you're talking about here? I assume I need to remove the shell and gently squirt it up into the contact area on the underside of the buttons? Remove the buttons and actually clean them in detail like I would clean a gun part?

> While you're at vinylengine.com, download the service manual for the PL-600 and it'll take you step-by-step through the belt replacement process. If you're not comfortable doing it, print out the relevant pages and take it and them to an electronics tech. Explain that you have the service manual and you'll save him time, and yourself money.

Already printed them out and reviewed them. I think I can pull this off. I'm 95% inexperienced with turn tables but I'm pretty handy with all sorts of other stuff. Let's say I need a hand though... when you say electronics tech is this the sort of thing a general electronics repair shop can handle or should I seek out a table repair shop?

> Your PL-600 is a real find. They had all the performance of the legendary PL-630, but due to a minimalist appearance they flew under the radar and didn't get the props they deserved. That said, if you can get it up and running well, you'll have something right on par with the Technics SL-1600MK2, which is saying something.

I think the appearance had a lot to do with it. I also think Pioneer really screwed up by releasing a later PL-600 (why they used the same model number I'll never understand) that was a really junky nearly-all-plastic model that sorta look like the original PL-600 but didn't perform like it at all. I bet a lot of people who had experience with the newer PL-600 looked over the older ones and/or told their friends not to bother picking them up.

> One last thing, check to see that your PL-600 suspension is active. The platter and tonearm should bob up and down a little when you touch them. When I bought mine from the original owner, the transit (shipping) screws under the platter were still in place, and had been for 35 years.

I'm pretty sure the suspension is active. The platter/tonearm bobs gently about 1/8th to 1/12th of an inch or so independently of the chassis. It moves a lot less than the Dual, however, which bobs all over the place. Should there be more give in the PL-600?

Thanks again for the helpful reply!

I think the blades can run off two plugs if the boards are still operational, but if there is an electrical problem then I'm not sure I'd want to risk burning down the house. You can also look into getting Deox-it and trying to clean the burnt stuff off the connectors. I had a similar situation with the PSU inside a S4 and the Deox-it did the trick.

I'd be very careful though because there is something very wrong with the connections if something like that happened. Check each have plug individually to male sure they are all solid and ensure there is a proper breaker somewhere on the circuit you're using.

Get some DeOxit, open the unit and go through each switch one by one and give them a cleaning. You want to spray DeOxit into the switch, and then turn it all the way back and forth about fifty times. I'll bet the Marantz works a lot better after that.

Not just the connections can be a problem, but the switch its self can develop invisible corrosion on the contacts that will keep it from making connection. They make a great contact cleaner for just this sort of thing (it's not cheap, but it really does its job well):

https://www.amazon.com/CAIG-DeOxit-Cleaning-Solution-Spray/dp/B0002BBV4G

This is all so much easier to trouble shoot if you have a (cheap) multimeter, and know how to us it to read resistance. Meters can be had for less than $10, and it really isn't hard to use for this sort of trouble shooting. It could tell you almost immediately if there's really a problem with your pickup (which is a rare, but not unheard-of thing to happen).

Your diagram is so well done that it indicates that you have all the potential that anyone needs to be walked-through trouble shooting this sort of problem. Get a meter, and I'd be happy to help you trouble-shoot this problem.

DeOxit is popular among vintage home audio collectors, however I'd guess that a pot in a car audio amp is not quite vintage enough to have exposed wipers. I'd replace it, personally.

A desoldering pump/wick is highly recommended.

The needle and cartridge might be avaliable, is there a number on either of them? NeedleDoctor helped me find a new cart for a console for a very good price.

Belt's shouldn't be too hard, you could order a few cheap ones online to guess and check.

The nobs themselves are probably okay, you probably need to spray some contact cleaner. Try Deox-it, or search amazon for "contact cleaner" pull the nobs off and spray a good amount in there whilst turning.

If that doesnt help, disassemble and look at the knobs themselves, they're probably just standard potentiometers. You'll have to hunt for them, it's not like theres a source for parts for this thing, you're going to need to work hard yourself to find substitutions and retrofit.

Heres what we use to clean audio patch panels... spray it on move the jack in and out about a dozen times wipe excess with a cloth.
https://www.amazon.com/CAIG-DeOxit-Cleaning-Solution-Spray/dp/B0002BBV4G

I found this one: https://www.amazon.com/CAIG-DeOxit-Cleaning-Solution-Spray/dp/B0002BBV4G

Source: https://community.ubnt.com/t5/The-Lounge/How-to-clean-contacts-on-ethernet-port/td-p/1638845

Deoxit is an electronic cleaner.

http://www.amazon.com/CAIG-DeOxit-Cleaning-Solution-Spray/dp/B0002BBV4G

Is this the kind of thing you're talking about? https://www.amazon.com/CAIG-DeOxit-Cleaning-Solution-Spray/dp/B0002BBV4G

I would recommend a real electronics contact cleaner, such as DeOxit: https://www.amazon.com/CAIG-DeOxit-Cleaning-Solution-Spray/dp/B0002BBV4G

Definitely get the 5%, the 100% is meant to be used in more bulk/professional environments.

Some of this stuff will take care of the scratchy knobs.

Caig DeOxit - for cleaning contacts in your aging electronic devices.

None. You'll strip off the tinning, expose the bare copper and make the oxidation problem even worse.

I'd suggest a pencil eraser or Caig Deoxit.

As an aside, if you don't already have a can of Deoxit or a similar product, now would be a good time. You use it to clean your switch and pots. It will lubricate and clean them and get them all moving properly and quietly. Its very easy to do.

That being said...Have you contacted the sales person and asked them directly if it was a floor model or B-stock? No one else can answer that for you. Does your invoice say anything regarding the status of the guitar (new/used/bstock) Most places that sell online that fit your description absolutely care about this kind of thing. Maybe you got the discount due to it being open box. If PRS has a serial # option on their site, you could find out what year your guitar was made, maybe its a previous year model.

1. I'm guessing that the sub filter is designed to be used if you don't have a sub -- i.e. prevent your speakers from blowing out by removing some of the low end of the signal.
   
   
2. Looking online, it looks like these are rated at 50W per channel at 8 ohms. You can find a pair of Polk bookshelf speakers on amazon for $90. Your budget of $500 gives you some pretty great flexibility in what you could buy. I like AudioEngine's gear (example), but it's really up to you.
   
   
3. Don't drop it, get some contact cleaner if any of the knobs are sticky or cause static when you turn them.
   
   
4. An antenna would definitely help. Get a cheap one off of amazon and it should make a difference. You shouldn't need anything fancy.
   
   
5. Have fun!

I'm getting an M3 delivered tomorrow, given to me by a friend who is clearing an estate. I locked down the tone generator and when I did, I started it up. There was a whirring, but no sound and I suspect lack of use is the issue. I have oil on hand - is DeOxit something I should do regardless of whether oiling it starts it up? If so, is this the stuff?