Reddit reviews Cal-Hawk CAPCFM Assorted Car Truck Mini Fuse 5,7.5,10,15,20,25,30 Amp

• Dashcam + Micro SD card + Hardwire kit = Cost
  
  
• Or Dashcam + Micro SD card = No parking mode.
  
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  Write down your values right now.
  
  
• Video quality = 0-10
  
  
• Build quality = 0-10
  
  
• Parking mode = 0-10
  
  0 being the lowest, 10 being the highest.
  
  A129 isn't a bad dash cam, but be prepared for your values to shift after ownership after a while. If you did your research, you know what you are purchasing. A129 2CH is what it is, as advertised.
  
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• A129 ($160 USD) Dash cam
  
  
• Micro SD card - TLC based cards will not last as long as MLC based High Endurance cards. 128 GB Micro SD card TLC based card likely ($20 USD) vs 64 GB High Endurance Micro SD card MLC based card likely ($43 USD)
  
  Micro SD cards last about a year or 2, maybe 3, then die. They have a limited number of read/write/rewrite cycles. Some are not Dashcam rated (will say in the warranty use in a dash cam will void warranty.) Some dash cams are picky with Micro SD cards and reject them on an unknown criteria. Some dash cams have recommended brands of Micro SD cards.
  
  
• Viofo 3 wire Hardwire kit ($15 USD) - Low voltage cut off feature (Adjustable) Voltage only.
  
  
• Viofo 2 wire hardwire kit ($10 USD) - Low voltage cut off feature (Preset/Not Adjustable) Voltage only.
  
  
• Power Magic Pro 3 wire hardwire kit ($24-30 USD) - Low voltage cut off feature (Adjustable) Voltage/Timer based.
  
  So I don't know how Viofo parking mode activates under different situations.
  
  
• Typical 2 wire system = Motion sensor(Movement in front of camera lens)/G sensor (hits bumps) inactivity, with required 1-2 minutes of "Quiet time." If the dash cam does not get its required "Quiet time" it will record normally until Low voltage cut off feature activates. Low voltage cut off feature (Preset/Not Adjustable) Voltage only.
  
  1st wire (Postitive) -> Always on fuse = Parking mode; 2nd wire -> Ground wire (Negative) to unpainted bolt (completes circuit).
  
  Or
  
  1st wire (Positive) -> Ignition only fuse = No parking mode; 2nd wire -> Ground wire (Negative) to unpainted bolt (completes circuit).
  
  
• Typical 3 wire system = Ignition switch position parking mode detection. This typically is more reliable way to detect if parked. However High end/Luxury vehicles with an (Unique/Specific) sleep mode will require an (Unique/Specific) hardwiring setup to allow the dash cam to work. (Sometimes including tunneling through the firewall to the battery, then re-insulating said fire wall.) Low voltage cut off feature (Adjustable) Voltage/Timer based.
  
  1st wire (Bat) -> Always on fuse = Powers dash cam; 2nd wire (ACC) -> Ignition only fuse = Detects if parked or driving; 3rd wire -> Ground wire (Negative) to unpainted bolt (completes circuit).
  
  I don't know how/if A129 changes from 2 -> 3 wire, or from 3 wire viofo -> 3 wire Power Magic Pro.
  
  
• Tap a fuse ($5-15 USD) + 5 amp fuse ($1-5 USD) at any automotive store.
  
  All Fuses, including Tap a fuse should match your vehicle's type. Mini/Mini low profile are the most common. There are also ATO, Micro 2, Micro 3, and Maxi type fuses.
  
  Read your owner's manual for fuse box location(s) typically 2-3 in every vehicle - in/under dashboard (use this one), Under hood (avoid at all costs), In door (use able but not favored), and Trunk (Use able but not favored.)

You car has "mini fuses" and I get an assortment from Amazon. The ratings range from 5 amps to 40 amps.

This is the set that I have: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0045K2Q9Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ERyszbQ91N786

Overview

Not wanting to spend hundreds on the RIGrunner series of distribution boards and being limited by their options, I decided to make my own versions.

I am new to electronics and I had no idea how to make PCBs a couple of days ago, so I need some help here. I will give some for free if someone help me with the technical problems or verify the files (more in the end), and of course I will make everything public for everyone to use personally.

About this board

This is the most simple and my first version. UNTESTED AT ALL at this point. It uses soldered/crimped 12ga wires, and [Keystone 3557-2] (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Keystone-Electronics/3557-2/?qs=cxy41lVAGV%2FfbyASjpXK1g%3D%3D) Fuse Holders. Fuse holder is rated for 30A, so is the contact. The fuse holders accepts both ATC/ATO and mini size fuses, and looks nice. The mounting holes are for 6-32 or 3mm size screws (0.142''/3.6mm ID)

Any problems you see with the design? Connectors placed too close/too far?

Component Cost

At the highest retail price (lowest volume), 7 holders and 7 connectors cost about $15, plus the cost of some 12ga wires (building wire). 7 good quality [Eaton fuses] (http://www.mouser.com/Circuit-Protection/Fuses/Automotive-Fuses/_/N-ba8b5?P=1yocc0hZ1z0s1g2) adds another 7 dollars, or you can get [120 pcs of cheap stuff] (https://www.amazon.com/Cal-Hawk-CAPCFM-Assorted-Truck-Mini/dp/B0045K2Q9Y/ref=pd_bxgy_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0045K2Q9Y&pd_rd_r=65EQMQKVBF7B5AFRSBNF&pd_rd_w=dzzaU&pd_rd_wg=pK73O&psc=1&refRID=65EQMQKVBF7B5AFRSBNF) on Amazon for the same price. In the end it should be less than $20 w/o the PCB.

Depending on where you get the PCBs made, it can be cheaper, or a lot cheaper than the commercial options.

Future designs

For future versions - what functions would you like to have on your power distribution board?

• Blown fuse LED indicator, capacitors (not sure why?), switches, or other electrical features?
  
• Horizontal connectors and fuse placement?
  
• Other connectors/terminals?
  
• How many outlets?
  
  

  Case
  

  I have some experience in CAD and CAM, so I should also be able to make some enclosures for whatever board I come up with. It should be pretty cheap for a simple folded sheet metal case or some machined plastic cover and mount them with standoffs.
  
  
  

  Software problems / design checking
  

  I'm using KiCAD - free, no licensing needed whatsoever. The files, both KiCAD files and Gerber files can be found [here] (https://github.com/cjm27/Powerpole-Distribution-Boards) on GitHub. I have two problems now:
  
  
  

• For some reason I cannot connect some pads with tracks on both sides. As soon as I draw a track on one side, the other side's track disappears. I don't think this would be a problem when made because they'll be covered by the copper pour.
  
  
  
• In the 3D preview, it shows the holes are covered by the copper pours. In production I think they will be drilled, so it shouldn't be a problem either? They should be plated through hole to conduct current.
  
  
  If someone is experience with PCB manufacturing, I will really appreciate some verification before I send the files to production.
  
  
  

  Thanks everyone for reading. 73

Fuses are a fail safe in case there is a surge, they don't control how much current goes through the outlet. But even if there is a surge you still have the charger as a secondary fail safe. If the bigger fuse still blows, then it's the charger. Car fuses are dirt cheap at a few cents a pop, and you should have them in glove box anyways.

http://www.amazon.com/120-Assorted-Truck-Mini-Fuse/dp/B0045K2Q9Y