Reddit Reddit reviews Camco 02962/02963 5500W 240V Screw-In Lime Life Ripple Water Heater Element - Ultra Low Watt Density

We found 13 Reddit comments about Camco 02962/02963 5500W 240V Screw-In Lime Life Ripple Water Heater Element - Ultra Low Watt Density. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

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Camco 02962/02963 5500W 240V Screw-In Lime Life Ripple Water Heater Element - Ultra Low Watt Density
Premium Ultra Low Watt Density water heater element240V/5500W5 year warrantyResists dry firingHeats in lime and sand that would burn out ordinary elements
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13 Reddit comments about Camco 02962/02963 5500W 240V Screw-In Lime Life Ripple Water Heater Element - Ultra Low Watt Density:

u/coopster · 6 pointsr/firewater

The temperature probe is in the main column inserted down from the end cap. It sits directly in the vapor path at the 90 degree turn.

The PID controller has an auto-learn feature; after one setup session (where it bounced the temperature all over the place and recorded data) it can hold the steam temperature incredibly steady at just about any temperature.

Parts:

u/thearthurvandelay · 5 pointsr/firewater

you want an ultra low watt density element [https://www.amazon.ca/Camco-02963-Screw-Ripple-Element/dp/B000BPG4LI], not a high density one. that's why you're getting all that scorch on there.

u/Deranged40 · 4 pointsr/Homebrewing

You'll need one or more Heating Elements inside your keg. The one I linked to is for water heaters. You need a 240V hookup, too. If you don't have one, these elements will work on 120V, but you're going to need more of them unless you want to wait an hour to get 5 gallons of water to boil.

You'll control these elements with a PID controller and one relay per heating element. The PID controller I linked comes with one good solid state relay that's capable of switching 240v. The PID controller also supplies you with the temp probe you need to put into the kettle somehow.

In addition to this, you'll need some various connectors, and probably an electrical box. I'd say budget a couple hundred bucks for odds and ends.

Finally, when messing with 240v... or even 120v, you really should get a real electrician to look over your connections before you apply power to it. A: to keep you safer, and B: to keep your investment safer.

u/jmysl · 3 pointsr/Homebrewing

I'm BIAB, so that helps cut down on the space and equipment, but I'm looking at adding [240V Heating Element] (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BPG4LI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1), Inkbird Controller, and [a basket to make raising the grains a bit easier to manage] (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VXKJJI/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER). Which doesn't seem like too much of an investment to make my brewday a LOT shorter, and a bit easier.


edit: [alternative inkbird controller] (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KJZMWSI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1RUFFFCQ74BCW&psc=1). This is the one i am currently considering, but i don't know the real differences.

u/AncientBulldog · 3 pointsr/Homebrewing

30 Gallons is going to take a crap ton of power/time... 15 gallons may even be pushing it.

This is the popular element used in e-brewing setups, but for 15+ gallons you would probably need more than one.

u/I_COULD_say · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

My heating elements are camco: https://www.amazon.com/Camco-02963-Screw-Ripple-Element/dp/B000BPG4LI

If you can follow directions, you can build a very simple control box by yourself.

Herm coils are easy to make, too, in case you change your mind.

u/sillycyco · 1 pointr/firewater

Excellent, you seem to be getting all of this very well. I wouldn't try to rip out an element from a hot plate and somehow insert it into a keg, hot water heater elements are purpose made for this and the right tool. They aren't expensive at all.

u/fn0000rd · 1 pointr/firewater

Sure, it's pretty much the standard these days:

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-02963-Screw-In-Ripple-Element/dp/B000BPG4LI

u/wascher · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

The electric heating elements are Ultra low power density (50W per sq. inch), so no single point on the heating element will get hot enough to carmelize the wort.

I had the same question when we were debating whether to go electric or not, but after some research I found that electric brewers don't ever seem to run into that issue. It is more Internet folklore than anything.

These are the elements we will be using: http://www.amazon.com/Camco-02963-14-Inch-Ripple-Element/dp/B000BPG4LI

u/hrafnkell · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

On top of the boiloff rate you will probably scorch the hell out of the wort with that element. The 6500 watts look to be spread over too little surface area. I've used a 4500w element that looks to be of similar size and my beer tasted like burnt porridge.

May I recommend the tried and tested 5500w camco ripple element?

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-02963-14-Inch-Ripple-Element/dp/B000BPG4LI

You're gonna need some sort of controller to tune it down when you're boiling. I Use 60% to maintain a good boil in 50l boils. Here's my system: http://brew.is/blog/2011/10/20-gallon-boil-kettle-electric-biab-kettle/ . I haven't written up something about the controller, but I'm using an auber instruments 2362 PID controller. It's used to control the mash temperature and the boil.

u/zjay · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

I recently started looking at what I'd need to convert to electric and it looks very doable for around $100. You can get one of these and a heating element like this. Since you already have the 240V hookup for your dryer, it should be pretty easy to set up.

I haven't actually done this yet, but a coworker uses this setup and he likes it a lot.

u/Litigiousattny · 0 pointsr/firewater

I know a lot of people prefer ones that have more surface area so there is no scorching. look at

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-02963-Screw-In-Ripple-Element/dp/B000BPG4LI/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_y