Reddit Reddit reviews Capricorn Bowden PTFE Tubing XS Series 1 Meter for 1.75mm Filament (Genuine Capricorn Premium Tubing)

We found 29 Reddit comments about Capricorn Bowden PTFE Tubing XS Series 1 Meter for 1.75mm Filament (Genuine Capricorn Premium Tubing). Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

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Capricorn Bowden PTFE Tubing XS Series 1 Meter for 1.75mm Filament (Genuine Capricorn Premium Tubing)
Brand: CapricornLength: 1 MeterID: 1.95mm ± 0.05mmOD: 4.0mm
Check price on Amazon

29 Reddit comments about Capricorn Bowden PTFE Tubing XS Series 1 Meter for 1.75mm Filament (Genuine Capricorn Premium Tubing):

u/ender32708 · 4 pointsr/ender3

Yep, once you go blue...

Capricorn Bowden PTFE Tubing XS Series 1 Meter for 1.75mm Filament (Genuine Capricorn Premium Tubing) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079P92HN9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RyguDbVRZAVKJ

u/cgibby94 · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

There are several videos on youtube for first time ender 3 setup. Mostly they cover some detailed orientated techniques like...

  1. make sure all assemblies are square.

  2. The belts should be tight but make a low note when plucked

  3. your bed should not be able to wiggle side to side (tighten rollers)

  4. Your z axis rod shouldn't need to be bent into place (print a spacer after initial assembly and install)

  5. Buy new springs off of amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FY47BX7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

  6. Buy new tube for filament feeder (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079P92HN9/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
u/bobbymake · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

>https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079P92HN9/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F1K1LTC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (a bit more than 20$ now sorry! lol)

You get enough from these two products to upgrade more than one printer as well, I love capricorn tubing, I wish it was just standard with every printer also just double checking that you're using 1.75mm filament I don't know the CR10 that well if that's an option that wont work with these products if you're using a larger filament. Good Luck!

u/sbag0024 · 3 pointsr/ender3

I will give you my top 5.

1.The hard yellow springs $5 and you will have extras. These will help your bed stay level longer. I think I need to check mine once every.. 10 prints or so or every other week, maybe longer. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013G5I4US/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vkE6Cb8SHNBVG

2.Glass bed. Lowes for $3 cut 2.5mm. Ender 3 bed known to be warped.

3.Pick up a Raspberry pi ~$50 and install octopi/ octoprint.. free, and a mini b to USB cable $5. Now you don't need the to fiddle with micro SD and can manage everything from PC. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BC6WH7V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_olE6Cb8J91Q1J

And
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P0GI68M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_umE6CbPGSR7T4

4.Raspberry pi cam $25 and longer cable $3 to go with your Raspberry pi octoprint. Now you can monitor prints while "away" .. aka relaxing in your lazy boy watching YouTube vids on how bad season 8 of GOT was. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ER2SKFS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_noE6CbXTHCPDS

And
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M4DAQH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ipE6Cb9RK6QNR


5.Bowden tube $11. Only if you plan on printing hotter then 240c. So petg, abs.. ECT ECT . https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079P92HN9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KjE6CbDMX6SGE



Hope this helps.

u/KommunistKamron · 3 pointsr/CR10

Extruder: get a microswiss hotend for it will be able to print flexible and other materials.
Parts cooling: Upgrade to the petsfang 5015 mod for better print cooling.
Auto bed leveling: Get the TH3D ezabl sensor for great bed leveling.
Other mods: motor dampers to reduce noise and vibration
To smoothers to smooth prints
Raspberry pi for octoprint
All metal extruder
Capricorn tubing
Hope I could help 😀
Links:
micro swiss hotend
petsfang part
ezabl sensor
motor dampers
tl smoothers
octoprint link
all metal extuder
capricorn tubing



Also this is what my petsfang with sensor looks like. https://i.imgur.com/sQahB69.jpg

u/AdversarialPossum42 · 2 pointsr/ender3

I was just doing some test prints to get the bed re-leveled and this fitting decided it didn't want to live any more.

Time to order some new parts, I guess.

u/Mayday-J · 2 pointsr/ender3

*may* not be your issue but you will need to recalibrate your estep is you swapped the hob gear (extruder gear) as they are different diameters than the stock one.

​

Total side note for anybody who wants to clean up their links: Anything after the ? is erroneous data for anybody else clicking the link unless it has multiple options to select. This works for most websites, including ebay.

​

Example:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B079P92HN9**?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title**

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B079P92HN9 <-- Really only what is needed.

u/lapharsical · 2 pointsr/FixMyPrint

I got my Ender 3 Pro about a month ago, performed some upgrades and ran into a few problems, but with some weird caveates.



I'm trying to print multiple miniatures on a single print, but seem to be getting a lot of oozing or stringing issues, but when I test with retraction tests, the test comes out perfect with identical settings. Additionally, when googling around, I couldn't find anything except for potentially a nozzle clog or potentially hydrated filament (possible, I'll test this later)

​

I've tested a few other prints as well, a benchy and a testcube, they print fine. Really curious about what's going on. Do I need to spread the prints out more, use different settings, or is it more of a mechanical issue?

​

I'd appreciate any help you guys have to recommend!

​

So, lets get down to it:

Printer: Creality Ender 3 Pro

Surface: Creality Glass surface

Upgrades: Aluminum extruder upgrade

Capricorn Tubing

New bed springs



In addition to these, I've tightened the X and Y bolts on the runners to reduce wobble -- there's no more wobble, maybe they're too tight? I don't think so, I've had good prints with these settings, but not with a few things.



Settings:

Basically the same as the "normal" settings for the Ender 3 on Cura 4.0.0

But in addition: (And what I think may be important is bolded)

adhesion_type = raft

layer_height = 0.12

support_tree_enable = True

support_type = buildplate

brim_outside_only = False

fill_outline_gaps = True

infill_pattern = cubic

infill_sparse_density = 25

material_final_print_temperature = 180

material_initial_print_temperature = 180

material_print_temperature = 185

optimize_wall_printing_order = True

raft_margin = 10

retraction_amount = 7.5

retraction_speed = 20

speed_print = 30

support_angle = 40

support_conical_enabled = True

support_infill_rate = 50

support_interface_enable = True

support_pattern = lines

** NOTE ** Standard supports are turned off, I'm using the tree supports

support_tree_collision_resolution = 0.15

travel_avoid_supports = True

travel_compensate_overlapping_walls_enabled = False

wall_thickness = 1.2

u/StoneforgeMisfit · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Nozzles

PTFE. This is the cadillac option. Cheaper tubing is very cheap, like $5 for 5 feet or something.

I didn't mention these as I haven't installed them, but stepper dampeners. Please see the stickied thread on /r/ender3 about these, if you want to order them!

The springs I ordered. Note: I couldn't quite replace the one where the wires attach to the bed. I didn't play around too much, I just left that one on there. The other three have held solid, and the next time I'm adjusting my bed, I'll try to put that one on there as well.

Hope that helps!

Edit: Reddit markdown not liking my links, I'll try to fix them

u/rogerz79 · 2 pointsr/FixMyPrint

Two things I would I highly recommend is to get a new extruder assembly and a new Bowden tube. I've had similar issues and they went away as soon as I changed these parts out.

Upgrade 3D Printer Parts MK8 Extruder Aluminum Alloy Block Bowden Extruder 1.75mm Filament for Creality 3D Ender 3,CR-7,CR-8, CR-10, CR-10S, CR-10 S4, and CR-10 S5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B96QMN2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_6tWTDb1JYN38X

Capricorn Bowden PTFE Tubing XS Series 1 Meter for 1.75mm Filament (Genuine Capricorn Premium Tubing) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079P92HN9/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_vvWTDbKY7ZVTY

These or any other should work

u/IWasTheFirstKlund · 2 pointsr/Boardgamedeals

Second - some Amazon links for the upgrade pieces I mention:

Springs - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SDDHYN4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bowden Tube - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079P92HN9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Couplings - https://smile.amazon.com/Dorhea-Straight-Pneumatic-Fittings-Accessories/dp/B07NSRCH2W/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=3d+printer+fitting&qid=1574436375&sr=8-15

Extruder - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079JZ374W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

PEI Sheet - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GSJSDWR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Stepper Motor Dampeners - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C7FRLNX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bootloader Flashing Kit - https://smile.amazon.com/Gulfcoast-Robotics-Bootloader-Flashing-Duplicator/dp/B07S5BBLKM/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=arduino+uno+ender+3+kit&qid=1574436535&s=industrial&sr=1-3

Note that I didn't buy this flashing kit, but this one seems to have everything you need to get a bootloader onboard the Ender. What happens is you go through a bunch of steps to attach this so the printer and then put a bootloader onto the Ender 3 board. You only have to do that one time, then you can update the firmware as often as you want - typically via a USB cable. I have Octoprint installed, so I can flash my firmware on my basement printers from my upstairs computer using wifi. Super easy and handy.

u/theDroobot · 2 pointsr/CR10

I actually replaced my whole extrusion path.

First, I found that the spring in the stock extruder assembly would fatigue resulting in under extrusion and jams. The BMG is a little pricey but worth it IMO. Comes with pretty good instructions.

Second, I switched to a Micro-swiss all metal hot-end. I probably didn't need to do this - given I almost never print high-temp materials but did it anyway.

Last, cheapest, and not least, Capricorn Tubing. Do not underestimate the difference this can make.

If you're up to the challenge, I highly recommend a BLTouch. It completely solved my first layer woes (warped bed on my CR-10s).

u/ImOnALampshade · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

You can get the extruder here with a halfway decent tube. That includes a tube but it isn't as good as the capricorn tube, which you can get here. I ended up getting the extruder with the not-as-good tube, and have been running that. I have a capricorn tube on standby in case I need it but so far haven't, so maybe the tube included with that extruder is good enough, but I may also just be lucky.

​

There's no instructions included with that kit, so you'll want to follow along with something online. Here's a video from the same channel I linked to earlier that should help.

u/sn34k · 2 pointsr/ender3

Most of these are less about upgrading, and more about fixing possible issues. But all of these are great to have and extremely cheap.


As others have said the glass bed and yellow bed springs are great, just be aware the amazon listing on there I used was shipped from china and took almost a month to show up. So pay attention to the shipping times.


The couplers the E3 comes with are straight up garbage. If they are not causing problems yet... they will. These are way better and give you plenty of extras if you ever need them:
https://smile.amazon.com/Ivelink-PC4-M10-Straight-Pneumatic-Extruder/dp/B073TTWWN1/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=ender+3+coupler&qid=1558892247&s=gateway&sr=8-7

​

The PTFE tube it comes with is also not great, any replacement one is usually better, and like others said with Capricorn you can print higher temps, but they also are manufactured to tighter tolerances and have less slack in your system. As to if this is a noticeable difference, it's arguable, but upgrading has fixed problems for some people.
https://smile.amazon.com/Capricorn-Bowden-Tubing-1-75mm-filament/dp/B079P92HN9/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=capricorn+tubing&qid=1558892351&s=gateway&sr=8-3

​

Even more important than the tubing it self is the cutter you use, if you buy different tubing, make sure you get a good cutter so the ends don't get pinched. This can cause drag that causes underextrusion.

https://smile.amazon.com/Capricorn-Bowden-Tubing-Cutter-M-Bowden-Cutter/dp/B07N11H963/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=capricorn+tubing&qid=1558892424&s=gateway&sr=8-8

​

The plastic extruder on the E3 is know to wear out after a few months for some. A filament guide will help but a better aluminum extruder should fix it for good. They are cheap and easy to install:

https://smile.amazon.com/HICTOP-Upgraded-Replacement-Aluminum-Extruder/dp/B0761PGLZ4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=ender+3+extruder&qid=1558892498&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

​

Once you want to go deeper down the hole, the two big mods that you will be happy with are A auto bed leveler and quieter stepper motors. There are guides for both of these on youtube and they are much more complicated and a bit more expensive but give amazing results.

​

A BLTouch goes for about $80 with the extension cable so you don't have to cut wires. It will make it so you save an offset and basically rarely have to level your bed again and the machine will account for most of it. There is another type of leveler I think it's called EZABL or something like that, but I liked the BLTouch option better so I never did the research on it.


If you want to do more upgrades like a touch screen, filament rounout sensor, and etc. you need a different main board. Most people upgrade to the MKS Gen L. They are about $25 bucks but require you to also buy new stepper motor drivers, which i'll touch on next. The board has more memory and slots for upgrades that the stock board does not. It does require a lot more setup and printing a new housing for the board. Again there are great youtube videos, just search for 'Ender 3 MKS Gen L'

​

If you think the Ender 3 is loud and would like it to be WAY quieter you can install better stepper motor drivers. The TMC 2208 driver will make the movement almost silent. you will still hear the fans, but the movement sound will completely gone. To install them you will need to either use the above mentioned board (as the stock board has the drivers integrated) or if you want an easier way you can order the Ender 3 Silent Ver 1.4 board:

https://www.creality3donline.com/creality3d-new-upgrade-silent-114-mainboard-for-ender-3-pro-ender-5-customized-und-non-standard-matching_p0147.html

This won't give you the upgradabiliity of the MKS board, but is a direct drop in replacement that gives you the silent steppers.

​

Welcome to family, and I hope some of that was helpful

u/pyr0ball · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

are you using an all-metal hotend?

Heat creep was really bad on my CR-10 when I switched to a microswiss all-metal. Initially I fixed it by reducing my retraction distance and increasing my retraction speed, but on longer prints it still ended up being too much of a problem and I switched to a new heatbrake that allowed the bowden tube to go all the way down to the nozzle and used Capricorn bowden tube to avoid deformation.

I'm getting much cleaner prints now and zero jamming. I think this heatbrake works with the original CR-10 heatsink

u/drdoak66 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I'm pretty new to this too, I bought my Ender 3 Pro around the same time as you. Quiet printing is pretty high on my list as well as being able to print high-temp exotic filaments in the long term while maintaining reliability.

First upgrades I purchased were stiffer bed springs so I would be less likely to throw the bed out of level while removing prints or working around the printer and Capricorn XS tube since it has a more consistent internal diameter, fits closer to the filament, and can work with slightly higher temps. I also picked up a pack of bowden couplers recently as I noticed the end nearest the extruder is sliding past the coupler jaws on de/retraction; don't worry about that unless it's an issue for you. That's about $30 alone since I don't have a supply shop locally and have to order those parts in bulk. I had a Pi 3B laying around unused and flashed Octoprint onto it. Highly recommended. I have a replacement Noctua hotend fan, buck converters, and 5015 blower on order to quiet the fan noise; about $32. Just replaced the Meanwell psu fan with a 60x25mm Noctua I had lying around (Note: there may be better options in the 92-120mm range to replace part of the PSU housing, but that's what I had laying around). Next upgrade coming is the SKR Mini E3 with TMC 2209 drivers ($28) to eliminate almost all of the stepper noise. Also looking into a replacement for the control board fan and some vibration isolating feet for the frame. As far as higher temp printing I haven't made a lot of progress aside from buying a titanium all-metal heat brake ($11) winch I have yet to install or inspect, and looking into enclosure and electronics relocation avenues.

Either way the mods I purchased came in at around $100 US which should quiet the printer and help with reliability. Also looking into picking up a good M3-M4 bolt kit if any exist in the US.

Here are some links to the things I picked up and will, which may be helpful if you're in the US. Mostly from Amazon.

Type | Name | Link | Price
---|---|----|----
Reliability | 8mm x 20mm yellow springs | Link | $6.98
Reliability | Capricorn XS Tubing | Link | $11.49
Reliability | PC4-M6 / PC4-M10 Pneumatic Bowden Fittings | Link | $11.99
Silence | Noctua 40mm x 10mm 3-pin fan | Link | $13.95
Silence/Various | LM2596 Adjustable Buck Converters | Link | $10.95
Silence | 24v 5015 Radial Ball Bearing Fans | Link | $7.19
Silence/Various | SKR Mini E3 w/ TMC 2209 drivers | Link | $28.81
High Temp | Titanium All-Metal Heat Brake | Link | $11.52
TOTAL: $102.88 US + Tax

Parts already purchased/ bought with printer

Type | Name | Link | Price
---|---|----|----
Reliability/High Temp | OEM Ender 3 Glass Bed | Link | $20
Reliability | Feeler Guage Set | Link | $5
Reliability | 608zz Bearings, using with this(My Remix), this, and this, though I like this design a bit better | Link | $5.98
QoL Improvement | Raspberry Pi 3B w/ Octoprint | Link | $34.46
Silence | Noctua 60mm x 25mm 3-pin fan, goes with this mod | Link | $14.95
TOTAL: $80.39 US + Tax

Future planned upgrades

u/swar0061 · 1 pointr/ender5

Meanwell power supply:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013ETVO12

Ferrules and crimper:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LCF39W9

Stepper smoothers (3-pack):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0727QT316

Capricorn PTFE tubing:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079P92HN9

Performance 3-D MK8 Apollo 0.4mm extruder nozzle:

https://www.p3-d.com/collections/duraplat-3d-extruder-nozzles

Glass bed (appears to be produced by creality), ebay seller usbkits :

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Creality-3D-Ender3-Ultrabase-Heat-Bed-Glass-Plate-235x235mm-for-3D-Printer-X6W6/143049426638

Aluminum drive feed, ebay seller creality-3d-direct :

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Upgrade-Aluminum-Extruder-Drive-Feed-Frame-For-Creality-Ender-3-3D-Printer/223095519332

***the tube fitting in this kit did not work well, so I used the fitting from the stock creality assembly and it worked fine.

​

THD Firmware:

https://www.th3dstudio.com/knowledgebase/th3d-unified-firmware-package/

u/2vulgar · 1 pointr/ender3

List of mods on my Ender 3 Pro:

  1. Glass bed

  2. Capricorn PTFE tubing

  3. Creality all metal extruder

  4. Upgraded bed springs

  5. Feet Noise Dampers

  6. Filament Guide

    I use Cura for my slicer, and use the default setting there for the Ender 3.
u/Xol_G · 1 pointr/FixMyPrint

UPDATE

After cleaning out my bowden tube between the tube itself and the nozzle, and removing the gunked up crud as well as trimming the end of the bowden tube where some filament was partially blocking, I put everything back together as it should be and set another test print for last night. I used the same model I had printed somewhat successfully but changed the following:

.2 less on wall thickness

10% less on density

10 added to Print speed

40 added to Travel speed

10% less on support density

And unfortunately, alittle more than halfway through the print this happened:

https://imgur.com/VbJXFJI

https://imgur.com/LrwHxlB

https://imgur.com/fcVClfZ

​

This morning I pulled apart the bowden tube and nozzle again to check for that problem from before but this time everything was fairly clear, no gunk in between tube and nozzle. At this point, I think it may be the extruder or possibly even something to do with the feeding of the filament spool itself since it seems to be a problem occuring around the same height everytime. I ordered an upgraded extruder [aluminum body] and better bowden tube this morning. Has anyone else noticed this kind of problem occurring consistently around the same height?

​

​

​

u/TorxPhillips · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Here's my favorites!

Filament standoff arm to keep it from pulling straight down

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2917932

​

And Complimentary filament guide:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2894097

​

Ribbon Cable Clips:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2960375

​

I added an SD card ribbon because the micro SD location and size Sucks!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D9JIUU0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Fan cover to get rid of upwards draft, and keep little bits of filament out of the fan:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2935204

​

Immediately replace that crappy Plastic extruder with any metal one off amazon.

​

Capricorn Bowden Tube:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079P92HN9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Powder Coated PEI Magnetic Build sheet! (Priceless!)

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/trianglelab-235-X-235-ender-3-Double-sided-Textured-PEI-Spring-Steel-Sheet-Powder-Coated-PEI/33008374363.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.8.221538feJjwDlN&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_7_10065_10130_10068_10890_10547_319_10546_317_10548_10545_10696_453_10084_454_10083_10618_10307_537_536_10059_10884_10887_321_322_10103,searchweb201603_52,ppcSwitch_0&algo_expid=04b2bf81-a9de-45c6-9ea4-23cf0e249943-1&algo_pvid=04b2bf81-a9de-45c6-9ea4-23cf0e249943&transAbTest=ae803_3

​

Change your fans over to Noctua fans, and the printer becomes nearly silent. (amazon)

​

I got an EZABL bed leveling kit. Doing BL Touch soon, but The EZABL has pre-configured firmware, which made life easy!

Raspberry pi zero W or 3B+ with octoprint is a must!

​

These got me into sexy print land pretty quick!

u/FogeyDotage · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I bought some of this bowden tubing : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079P92HN9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for my Wanhao Duplicator clone. I think it makes a difference. (Definitely touches hot end and nozzle in this printer)

u/Snochew · 1 pointr/ender3

All 3 as they are really cheap.

Bowden Tube

Aluminum Extruder

Bed springs

u/OC_Rookie · 1 pointr/ender3

Mods:

Ended 3 official 1.1.5 from here. All mainboard settings are stock.

Aluminum extruded from here.

Capricorn tubing from here.

Cura 4.1 on Linux

Filament at 210 on hotend, 60 on bed.

u/SpitFiya7171 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

CR-10S, I have it as a tag on every post/comment I make. I assumed people would see that. :/

Ive never actually calibrated my e-steps. Dont even really know what that is honestly. If it is where you measure out a meter of filament and measure how much it says it uses and how much it actually uses, then no, I've definitely never done that. I probably should look into it. I primarily use a .04mm nozzle. I'm tried a couple other in the past but I stick to the stock .04mm nozzle size. Have a whole pack of them. And just changed it the other day.

Yes, it's a bowden tube extruder. I've recently upgraded to a Capricorn Bowden PTFE tube from Amazon. I honestly don't know how much more to mess with that then what I have already. Its surely tight and not moving, cut to the same length as the stock tube, with no kinks. For an advertised "slippery tube", it actually has quite a bit of friction, but no more/less than the stock tube. I took the additional tubing I had (because it came in 3ft) and just ran some PLA through it, unattached. Just seems rough, but again no different from the stock tube.

For relatively bigger prints, I think it has better results. Especially since the amount of ooze that comes out is really only a couple millimeters, so of the travel goes over the part, it really is no problem. Shoot, if there was a way to Always have the nozzle z-hop and travel Over printed parts only, that would probably fix the problem.. i guess.. that way the ooze goes in the infill. But idk

u/ThatsMeNotYou · 1 pointr/3dprintingdms

Hey Omnioji,

I am a big fan of yours, would love to help, but some more info would be needed.

I know you say FDG profile, but some things in those profiles are also kinda fluid and need to be adjusted by you. So in particular, what is your print temperature? What are your retraction settings?

One simple fix which would likely give you some improvement would be to upgrade your bowden tube to a smoother PTFE Tube which causes less friction on the filament and therefor reduces stringing.

u/ArchmageMC · 1 pointr/CR10
  1. Motor stopper dampeners. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C7FRLNX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 These will greatly reduce sound on your machine.
  2. X and Y motor supports Y = https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2845950 X = https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2793110 with dampeners. This'll help alleviate belt tension on the motor/belts and quiet the pritner even more. You'll need some M3x40mm screws for this.
  3. Flash the firmware with Marlin and enable the heat runaway options. This will stop the printer from burning down your house if a critical error occurs. https://www.printedsolid.com/blogs/news/installing-marlin-1-1-9-on-your-cr-10s-with-mesh-bed-leveling-thermal-protection-better-menu-layout-and-finally-power-resume
  4. Add a Mirror tile to your bed. Most CR10s beds bow in the middle. Mirrors are totally flat, so just make a mirror your new print bed/print bed base.
  5. Print the Petsfang upgrade https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2759439 and get a Noctua 40mm fan. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072JK9GX6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and a 50mm blower fan https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WMHNG5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 You can choose if you want the 10 or 20mm noctua fans. Petsfang page says all the screws you'll need.
  6. Print some support stuff and get some rods to make supports. This'll reduce your print height by 20mm, but it'll greatly stabilize your printer when you do large prints, alleivating weird artifacting when the print gets higher up. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2805226
  7. Get a better Boaing tube. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079P92HN9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (I'm not sure if this is the best out there.)
  8. A steel wear resistant nozzle if you wanna print things other than PLA/TEPG.
  9. A PEI plate to make it much easier to get prints off. Preferably a flexible one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RDQF7KQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  10. A spool mount https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2440814 which will lets you use bigger spools all while greatly reducing the amount of strain on the extruder and the noise that the filliment makes when it turns.
  11. Control box cooling fan and base. I've yet to install this one myself as I'm not sure how to wire up the fans, but this'll greatly reduce fan noise and keep the control box super cool. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2729888 It'll also remove the problem where if the print goes over 300mm in height where the filiment can sometimes snap due to strain.
  12. A BLTouch to make bed leveling automatic more or less. I've yet to install this myself. https://www.amazon.com/ANTCLABS-BLTouch-Leveling-Premium-Extension/dp/B076PQG1FF/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=bltouch&qid=1562832293&s=industrial&sr=1-3

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    Anyone got any others?