Reddit Reddit reviews CompuLab Display Emulator (fit-Headless)

We found 66 Reddit comments about CompuLab Display Emulator (fit-Headless). Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Audio & Video Accessories
Video Converters
Accessories & Supplies
Electronics
CompuLab Display Emulator (fit-Headless)
Display emulator for remote desktop accessSupports up to 1080p resolution. For higher resolutions up to 4K - check fit-Headless 4KWorks with any operating system, no software installation requiredPlugs into HDMI port, does not require additional powerWorks with Mac Mini, CompuLab fit-PC and Intense PC and with any other computer
Check price on Amazon

66 Reddit comments about CompuLab Display Emulator (fit-Headless):

u/SurrealEstate · 12 pointsr/buildapc

When Win10 came out and the direction was clearly "operating system as a service", I decided that it was time to move to Linux but gaming was always the deal breaker.

The solution I've been using now is to run Win10 on one machine and use Steam's In-Home Streaming to play games from any of the Linux machines. It works pretty well as long as the machines use wired networking. The latency is surprisingly good, although to be fair I'm not an FPS gamer or someone who obsesses about that kind of thing. If the network connection slow down, the first noticeable difference seems to be that you get video compression artifacts and not stuttering, which seems like the better of the two.

I haven't tried it out, but there's also something called Parsec that's seems similar to Steam's solution.

If someone decides to try this with In-Home Streaming, the Windows machine doesn't seem to like running completely headless so you might need to plug in a monitor or get a display emulator for < $10. Win10 loves to just update and restart whenever the hell it wants, so I run TightVNC on it and log in remote if Windows does anything that prevents Steam from auto-loading. Remmina on Linux is awesome and supports both VNC and RDP, although you might need to install a plugin, I forget.

Anyway, I don't regret a thing. Linux is honestly a joy to work with, and I'm never going back. I don't mean to get too soap-boxy here, but when a "clean" install of an operating system has animated ads in your start menu, it's time to call bullshit on that company and do whatever you can to move away from them.

If anyone decides to try out Linux, I think Linux Mint Cinnamon is a good starting point; it will be very familiar for people used to running Windows. If you have old hardware, Linux Mint XFCE or Lubuntu are both excellent. Anything Ubuntu-based is widely supported, stable, and relatively easy to dive into.

u/pdmcmahon · 12 pointsr/macsetups

Mac Mini (2018 model), named NOSTROMO


  • 3.2 GHz Hexa-Core Core i7 CPU
  • 32 GB of RAM
  • 256 GB PCIe boot volume
  • 2 TB external rotating drive for Time Machine Backups, connected via Thunderbolt 3 / USB-C
  • Dual 8 TB Western Digital Elements USB 3.0 drives for content, VOL1 and VOL2. VOL1 is replicated to VOL2, both are connected via Thunderbolt 3 / USB-C. These handy adapter cables allow you to connect a traditional USB 3.0 device into a Thunderbolt 3 port.
  • Single 4 TB SeaGate Plus USB 3.0 drive which contains the majority of my media content, VOL5. It is a "floater" drive which I always carry in my backpack to have the majority of my content with me at all times.
  • Running Mac OS 10.14.6 Server
  • Dual 27” Apple Thunderbolt Displays connected to the Mac Mini, daisy-chained off a single Thunderbolt 3 port using a Thunderbolt 3 to Thunderbolt 2 adapter.
  • This Mac Mini is what I use to host all of my iTunes content to the three Apple TVs in my home


    Mac Mini (2010 model), named SPUNKMEYER


  • 2.4 GHz Core 2 Duo CPU
  • 16 GB of RAM
  • 100 GB SSD boot volume
  • 500 GB traditional drive for Time Machine Backups
  • Running Mac OS 10.13.6 Server


    MacBook Pro Retina 15” (2015 model), named SULACO


  • 2.2 GHz Quad-Core Core i7 CPU
  • 16 GB of RAM
  • 256 GB SSD
  • Running Mac OS 10.14.6 Client
  • Time Machine Backups are being taken both on the 2018 Mac Mini as well as the 2010 Mac Mini


    Mac Mini (2012 model), named FERRO


  • This Mac is located at Mom & Dad’s about 1,000 miles away. It is a complete offsite backup of all of my content, it is also used for Time Machine backups of my mother’s Mac Mini and my niece’s MacBook Pro. I have both Remote Desktop and SSH access via the magic of port forwarding. Whenever I add a new movie, I place it is my Shared Dropbox folder, then about 30 minutes later it is available on the backup Mac Mini. I then move it over to VOL3, and all of my content is always in sync.
  • 2.5 GHz Dual-Core Core i5 CPU
  • 16 GB of RAM
  • 120 GB SSD boot volume
  • 500 GB traditional drive for Time Machine Backups
  • Single 8 TB Western Digital Elements USB 3.0 drive for storing and hosting content, VOL3. It is a complete duplicate of VOL1/VOL2.
  • Running Mac OS 10.14.6 Server


    Mac Mini (2012 model), named AURIGA


  • This Mac is located at my sister's house about 1,000 miles away. It is a complete offsite backup of all of my movies and TV shows, it is also used for Time Machine backups of my sister's MacBook Pro and my other niece’s MacBook. I have both Remote Desktop and SSH access via the magic of port forwarding. Whenever I add a new movie, I place it is my Shared Dropbox folder, then about 30 minutes later it is available on the backup Mac Mini. I then move it over to VOL4, and all of my content is always in sync.
  • 2.5 GHz Dual-Core Core i5 CPU
  • 16 GB of RAM
  • 256 GB SSD boot volume
  • 500 GB traditional drive for Time Machine Backups
  • Single 4 TB Seagate Backup Plus USB 3.0 drive (VOL4) for storing and hosting content, VOL4. As it is only a 4 TB volumes, it contains only the moves and television shows which are on VOL1, VOL2, and VOL3.
  • Running Mac OS 10.14.6 Server


    Both the 2012 Minis and the 2010 Mini are completely headless. Unfortunately, this means that accessing them via remote desktop gives you a measly 800x600 resolution. I use this handy little gadget on both of them to replicate a 1920x1080 display being connected. So, when I connect via Screen Sharing I get a nice big display.


    MacBook Pro (2018 model), named APLC02XV5W1JGH5


  • 2.2 GHz Six-Core Intel Core i7 CPU
  • 16 GB of RAM
  • 500 GB SSD
  • Running Mac OS 10.14.5 Client
  • This is my work-provided laptop, mostly used for remote access. It is pretty locked down, I am not a local administrator so I cannot even rename it to fit my naming scheme


    iPad Pro 10.5", named APONE


  • 2.38 GHz Apple A10X CPU
  • 4 GB of RAM
  • 256 GB of storage
  • Running iOS 13.0 Public Beta


    iPhone X, named RIPLEY


  • 2.4 GHz Apple A11 Bionic CPU
  • 3 GB of RAM
  • 256 GB of storage
  • Running iOS 12.4


    LG Blu-Ray reader/writer in connected to NOSTROMO via USB 3.0, used for ripping Blu-Rays and DVDs

    Sabrent USB 3.0 Dual-Bay Hard Drive Dock, also connected to NOSTROMO via USB 3.0

    The microphone is a Yeti Blue with a Nady Pop Filter, coupled with a Logitech HD C310, used for Google Hangouts and FaceTime calls with the fam, and the occasional podcast. It is mounted on a RODE PSA1 Swivel Mount Studio Microphone Boom Arm and a RADIUS II Microphone Shock Mount.

    The mousepad is an XTracPads Ripper XXL mousepad

    The chair is a Raynor Ergohuman ME7ERG desk chair

    I use Dropbox to expertly keep my content in sync. Due to the amount of content I keep in there, it is well worth the $100 per year for a Dropbox Pro subscription.


    Additionally throughout the house, I have...
    3 Eeros for my Mesh Wireless Network WiFi System
    2 Apple TVs (4K), named ASH and CALL
    1 Apple TV (4th Generation), named BISHOP
    1 Apple HomePod, named DIETRICH
    1 Nest Hello Video Doorbell, named HELLO
    1 Nest Learning Thermostat, named NEST (yeah, original af, I know)
    2 WyzeCam Pans, named WYZE-Kitchen and WYZE-LivingRoom
    4 WeMo Smart Plugs, named WEMO-Foyer, WEMO-SpareBedroom, WEMO-MasterBedroom, and WEMO-LivingRoom
    1 Amazon Echo Plus, named ECHO-LivingRoom
    2 Amazon Echoes (First-Generation), named ECHO-MasterBedroom and ECHO-Kitchen
    2 Amazon Echo Dots, named DOT-Office, and DOT-SpareBedroom
    4 Google Home Minis
    1 Brother HL-L2395DW Wireless Laser Printer, named LV426
    1 PlayStation 3 Slim 120 GB, named HICKS

    I have a total of 31 IP reservations according to my Eero app. This makes it a lot easier to manage my network, set up port forwarding, etc.
u/mattheww · 9 pointsr/homelab

These are $10 on Amazon too ($15 for 4k). They basically report those resolutions via EDID so the video cards will negotiate to it:

https://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6/

u/WormSlayer · 7 pointsr/oculus

Not entirely, I think it's a limitation of Windows but you have to actually have something connected. If I ever manage to afford a new VR box, I'm going to try getting a few of these sort of things.

u/MaxPower4478 · 5 pointsr/SteamOS

You could maybe use something like that:http://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6

I can not remember when you only have 1 user, but with multiple users, you will need to login before you can stream

u/xienze · 5 pointsr/homelab

I do this very use case... GPU passed through and Steam Streaming to my laptop. The trick, if you want your machine to be headless, is to use an HDMI display emulator.

u/ecureuil · 4 pointsr/macmini

you need something like this:
https://www.amazon.ca/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6

Its the first link I got from google so you can find cheaper dongles.

You can after that install a plex server to serve videos/photos/music to the other devices in your household.

u/noperdd · 4 pointsr/Vive

If the DRM requires the hardware, eventually I bet someone will make USB and HDMI dongles to emulate the Oculus Rift being plugged in. (Like extra monitor dongles http://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6)

Maybe - Hopefully you can do it with software. You've done amazing work so far. Thank you.

u/parkerlreed · 3 pointsr/Steam_Link

When your monitor is off it's probably telling the OS, "Hey I'm not here" The GPU then has nothing to render to and is probably falling back to software rendering causing the FPS drops.

I think there are some adapters you can plug in to spoof an active monitor. https://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6

EDIT: Found some more info here. https://steamcommunity.com/app/353380/discussions/0/483368526585691821/ Pretty much backs up my assumption. GPU sees "no monitor" when it's off and thus doesn't render properly.

u/ibookworm · 3 pointsr/DIYRift

Or, what if I flashed the EDID for this device, started the program while it was in, and then hot-swapped to the DIY Rift?

u/thecw · 3 pointsr/nvidiashield

That's quite an interesting setup.

You need one of these bad boys: https://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6

u/gear323 · 3 pointsr/oculus

I'm pretty sure the limit on virtual monitors is how many physical monitors that you have physically connected to your video card.

If you go headless for some or all the monitors, you will need a monitor emulator. Like this for HDMI and obviously a different hardware emulator for DVI.

http://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6

Your virtual monitors would be limited to how many actual video ports you have on your video card with headless emulators plugged into the ports or actual physical monitors plugged in.

u/alonikomax · 3 pointsr/VirtualDesktop

VD uses the GPU to render the screens.
The GPU will only render a screen if its really connected.
Like on my case, I have monitor 1 hooked to my Nvidia card and monitor 2 to my intel hd graphics.
VD will work only with one of the displays because VD can use only one GPU at a time...

Now, to solve this you can use a ghost adapter.
http://www.overclock.net/t/384733/the-30-second-dummy-plug

Thats a like to an HOWTO for making one at home using some simple things.

Links to buy:

https://eshop.macsales.com/item/NewerTech/ADP4KHEAD/
http://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462569828&sr=8-1&keywords=headless+display

u/Calvyno · 3 pointsr/EtherMining

teamviewer

I think the resolution issue isn't related to the software you use though. You probably need an hdmi display emulator. Something like this

I have one on each of my rigs. Without it, it will either not even display anything when I remote into them or the resolution would be tiny and unchangeable.

u/cbutters2000 · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

One of these:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FLZXGJ6/
use with a usb-c to hdmi adapter

plug it in; then set it to "second display only" and then plug in the oculus.

Alternatively try plugging in a real second monitor and see if that works just as well.

u/nAssailant · 2 pointsr/Steam

You could try using nvidia's Dynamic Super resolution to render it in 1080, but it may still look weird on your screen (since it would first be down-scaled to 1650x1050 and then resized back to 1080 for your TV.)

You could also use a display emulator and set that as your primary monitor for when you want to stream.

Other than that, your only real option is to get a 1920x1080 monitor. ASUS and BenQ are good bets, and you can find one for $80-$130 on Amazon or Newegg.

u/rodleland · 2 pointsr/homelab

I have a 2012 i5/16/SSD that does all my server-ey things in my lab straight on OSX, and I've been really happy with it. I'd be cautious with the C2D's as they're getting a little long in the tooth to do any really solid media transcoding. I'd also budget for an HDMI display emulator if you're going to run it headless- if there isn't a display plugged in, the machine powers down the video card, leading to some performance hits. Happy to answer any other questions you have.

u/chronop · 2 pointsr/techsupport

I'm not sure about doing it with software, however I would use hardware like this or this

u/KyleTheCrusher · 2 pointsr/pcgaming

I think you might want to look into one of these, a headless HDMI adapter:

https://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1522528311&sr=8-5&keywords=headless+HDMI&dpID=31uHUN7qVqL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Basically, it makes your PC think that you have a second monitor. You could probably have Steam open up on the headless adapter and stream it from that. I have not tried this myself, but I have heard of others doing this.

u/Golliath1999 · 2 pointsr/Amd

Possible to pick up a headless emulator like this:

CompuLab Display Emulator (fit-Headless) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FLZXGJ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4LxyybD84A4KR

Or:

CompuLab 4K Display Emulator (fit-Headless 4K) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JKFTYA8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1NxyybJG915J3

Should recognize as a monitor even when you turn your real monitor off.

EDIT: Not just a 480 problem by the way. Happens with my Fury X as well.

u/thatsnotmybike · 2 pointsr/oculus

You're going to need a monitor of some kind most likely, at the very least to get everything setup, and because this stuff is in it's infancy and just won't always work reliably without one.

If you already have a computer of some kind, once you get setup you can share your desktop over VNC or RDP to do just about anything you can't do in the Rift.

If not, buy a decent monitor for this rig as well. You'll want it when you get tired of trying to read in the HMD. The Rift is being marketed, and designed, as a peripheral and not a main display, so using it as one is going to be a little janky at best.

If you're still set, Virtual Desktop currently also requires a 'real' display buffer to read from.

You've got two easy options I know about there. The first, and probably preferred, is using a DVI dummy plug: http://www.amazon.com/CablesOnline-Graphics-Display-Detection-VE-D11/dp/B00N85QYGS

These were popular for bitcoin miners or CUDA devs who's GPUs wouldn't work without something plugged in. These should let you set just about whatever custom resolution you wish.

Another, newer but not necessarily better, option is to emulate a real HDMI monitor with one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6
http://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-4K-Display-Emulator-fit-Headless/dp/B00JKFTYA8

Reviews seem mixed, but the use cases vary widely. The main issue with these may be setting a refresh rate that isn't terrible, one reviewer mentioned not being able to get >15fps on the 4k model.

u/GreyReaper · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Your problem is called booting headless. Some consumer bios likes to stop and throw an error when no display is detected.

Fix is to resistor mod the vga output, or buy a headless display emulator, such as something like this

u/platformterrestial · 2 pointsr/chromeos

So it's just a difference of monitor attached vs monitor not attached? You could get a dummy display adapter to fool the device into thinking it's got a monitor attached.

https://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6

u/JyveAFK · 2 pointsr/GalaxyNote9

No problem. Just plug in this;
https://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6

and still remote into it.
it's that remoting into it that still doesn't appear to work for now. Once that was possible, can work around everything else.

u/jeffreyparker · 2 pointsr/windows

I'm not sure if there's a software solution, but they specifically sell devices like this one which emulate a monitor to make remote desktop work in situations like yours.

u/tbertuzzi44 · 2 pointsr/nvidia

A display emulator would do the trick

u/trogdorsmith · 2 pointsr/PleX

I use mine headless. I use vnc to access locally, and used to use the chrome remote desktop for when I wasn't home. Problem with that was, if you don't have a mouse hooked up, you don't get a cursor.

Also, the resolution can get jacked up if you don't have a monitor, so a headless hdmi dummy plug fixes that problem. This is the one I have

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FLZXGJ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_McChAbWEZN581

u/MattJC123 · 2 pointsr/PleX

And you may need a headless monitor adapter to get full screen resolution. This one works well.

u/imallamatoo · 2 pointsr/homelab

I have an AMD R7 250 card in my R710. I have a VM running as a headless gaming PC for my Steam Link. I got this card: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00H5DJDL2/ I was not aware of the PCI power limitation on the R710 when I bought the card so I guess I got lucky. It's bit of an older card, but it runs fine off of PCI power and supports DirectX 12.

One of the dual x8 riser cards in the R710 can be replaced with an x16 riser card. I didn't want to buy that riser card, so I soldered out the back of an x8 slot to get it to fit in. The GPU won't max out an x8 slot anyway.

AMD cards should all be OK for passthrough. They apparently don't artificially limit them like NVIDIA does.

If you're going to have a display plugged in to the card you shouldn't need anything else, but if you want to utilize the GPU in a remote session like I do you'll need to plug in a display emulator and disable the VM virtual display adapter. I bought one of these to emulate a 1080p display: https://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6

u/FMLAdad · 2 pointsr/WindowsMR

Maybe this will work?

u/adanufgail · 2 pointsr/unRAID

Is there onboard video? In by case I needed to make sure that the onboard video was plugged in so that Unraid's command line would use that and allow it to pass my 1070 correctly. I ended up buying a HDMI dummy plug so I didn't need to remember to plug in to the onboard first.

u/Kiriesh · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Something like VNC would probably be the best option, but if you insist on using TV something like a display emulator should do the trick.

u/newDell · 1 pointr/chromeos

I'm assuming you're using your Chromebook to remotely access your windows machine via Chrome Remote Desktop (but doesn't really matter if you are or not). I haven't had this particular problem, but a few things to check out are:

A) Is your windows machine opening these folders in separate displays (is your machine set up to utilize multiple monitors?). If so, you'll probably want to either mirror the displays or set it to just use one.

B) Some OS's have trouble behaving normally with Chrome Remote Desktop if it doesn't think there's a monitor plugged in (I just dealt with this yesterday on my headless Ubuntu machine). You may want to try this again with a dummy plug (you can make these yourself for cheaper) or plug in an external monitor that you leave off or use some software that creates a dummy display (like this)

u/Vardso · 1 pointr/techsupport

That's a bummer. In the spirit of solving your problem (but not answering the original question) may I suggest you try using teamviewer as well? It seems that people had your exact issue but were able to use teamviewer with the laptop lid closed after installing the Teamviewer Display Driver.

Source

Warning: If you install that driver do so at your own risk. According to the source, you might not be able to adjust your laptop's brightness after installing the driver.

Another solution - it would require you to spend money, but considerably less than getting an actual monitor - would be to find and use something like this.

[Amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FLZXGJ6/)

Then it would just work.

u/DeadlyDuckie · 1 pointr/ZReviews

I'm not using HDMI for video, i'm using DVI for my 1440p monitor. I did just order a displayport to HDMI wire (my 1 hdmi port on my video card is for my home theater setup). It seems like I can't use HDMI for just audio though as per my googling. I did order this to try and see if it will fake the display and just set to show desktop on my maindisplay.

u/steveo_in_sd · 1 pointr/gpumining
u/mrcaptncrunch · 1 pointr/techsupport

A paid alternative to /u/chareon's post that uses HDMI,

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FLZXGJ6/

u/Zn2Plus · 1 pointr/gpumining

Awesome. If you find out that you always need a monitor plugged in for OC to activate then look into these:

https://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6

Which simulate a monitor but don't waste space/electricity.

u/epsiblivion · 1 pointr/selfhosted

you can short the vga adapter if you have one. or buy a dummy hdmi dongle on amazon for like $8.50 https://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6

u/WHATISAHOLLABACKGRL · 1 pointr/TechnologyProTips

Googling what you said gave me this: (Apart from some pretty messy (and probably dated) info/registry hacks)

https://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6/ref=redir_mobile_desktop/130-0741496-4214623?_encoding=UTF8&%2AVersion%2A=1&%2Aentries%2A=0

Probably the least headache way to achieve what I´m after.

Thanks !

u/SiR_RiS · 1 pointr/appletv

Yes, you can. You might need one of these as it won't output the image if it doesn't detect a display

u/IckesTheSane · 1 pointr/Hue

I don't have a sync box, but there are 'dummy plugs' used in IT for connecting to remote computers. The idea is, depending on the remote connection software, it will think there's a 1080 monitor attached and maintain that resolution:

https://smile.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6

No idea if it would work for a sync box, or if it would pass the HDCP protection or not, like was mentioned below. But, it's a thing that exists.

u/bizzy11 · 1 pointr/PleX

I'm not sure why you're having trouble with Teamviewer, I use it exclusively to control all my PC's remotely. Have you reformatted the Plex server PC at all?

Can you elaborate on "the thing works about once every 10 tries." Are you getting an error message when you try to connect? Does it time out? Is Teamviewer just not starting up with your PC?

I also run my Plex server on a dedicated Windows 10 PC and initially had some problems connecting and controlling it.

I'm not sure if you're experiencing the same problems, but I had to enable Mouse Keys in Windows for it to read my keyboard commands: http://imgur.com/dwCURbV

I also had to buy one of these as the resolution was way too low: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00FLZXGJ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T1_ZP6EzbKN8HTVW

u/SafetyPrance · 1 pointr/pcgaming

If you have 2 GPUs and your CPU/motherboard supports IOMMU, this is possible using virtualisation.

Basically you install a hypervisor on your main operating system, create 2 virtual machines, and assign a GPU to each. One GPU is connected to a monitor, and the other to a stub display device such as this. The laptop connects to the virtual machine using GameStream/Steam In-home Streaming etc.

The difficult part is that hardware/hypervisor compatibility, troubleshooting, and performance tuning requires quite a bit of specialised knowledge. Most people use a Linux distro with KVM as their hypervisor OS, so experience with Linux is very usefull. See /r/vfio and /r/unraid for some examples of the kinds of things you will have to learn to implement this.

There are other more exotic possibilities such as using a card from the Nvidia GRID, and using it to power multiple virtual machines (even over the internet). There is also some early work at implementing virtual GL, in which the CPU can be used to emulate a 3D-capable display adaptor. It remains to be seen how effective this approach would be for gaming, however (it's also Linux-only for now).

u/jdrch · 1 pointr/GalaxyNote9

>No problem. Just plug in this;
>
>https://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6

Holy crap, I wasn't aware that was available! That actually solves a huge related problem for me, thanks!

u/MrSpotmarker · 1 pointr/Steam_Link

Hi. I bought this 1080p adapter and it worked fine with my GTX760 and 970. The Steam Link doesn't support 4k - maybe that causes the glitches https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00FLZXGJ6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_ySM4wbYWWPA70

u/Skallox · 1 pointr/homelab

Really? Shit I payed full price. How low has this 1080p one gotten?

u/oh_lord · 1 pointr/chromeos

I believe you're going to need a device like this that triggers the HDMI port on your laptop to convince the machine that you have another monitor connected. From there, install Chrome Remote Desktop on your Chromebook as well as your Windows laptop and remote in. Pan the view of the remote session so that it only shows the "fake" monitor, and I think it might work kind of well. I can't test it personally, but I think my theory is right. Hopefully someone else can chime in.

u/eikenberry · 1 pointr/VFIO

They make little HDMI plugs that emulate monitors. They are pretty cheap and will allow you to stream at 1080p. I got this one (below) and it works great.

http://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6

u/Reichstein · 1 pointr/chromeos

On Windows you can use a null display dongle to make the computer think you have a second display connected and then share that via remote desktop.


Not sure if the same thing works on Chrome OS. But the dongles are pretty cheap, so it may be worth a try.

edit: one of these https://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6

u/lgcyan · 1 pointr/oculus

You can use this:
CompuLab Display Emulator (fit-Headless) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00FLZXGJ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uLjlDb5TTS8HT

Works great for me, including with Oculus Virtual Desktop. Remember to enable automatic login.