Reddit reviews Coolerguys 100-240v AC to 12 & 5v DC 4pin Molex 2A Power Adapter (2A, Without On/Off Switch)

Custom made out of plywood. Exhaust on that Sony is in that front corner, so I put two fans, buy I'm actually only using one. I left a small gap along too back for intake.

Using this to automatically turn on.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RAztDbWC9XWZ6

And then the noctua plugs into this.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MGG6SC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IHztDbJCPQ5XY

And then I found a good temp for it to turn on, and it balances out nicely and keeps temps from skyrocketing, and even runs til it cools down and shuts off.

Lined it with carpet, and overall noise is good. Never hear it. That being said, I'm weird, and I could hear it in quiet scenes, and then I'd START listening for it, ruining the movie, so I made the box. Most normal people don't have this problem. 😆

Hi space bucket folks.

Here is my bucket build. I at the stage of testing the temp and humidity. Next steps are to tack down the wiring and power supply, buy a cabinet to stash the bucket in...and then start growing!

Here are the parts I bought off amazon:

LED:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MY5VY2W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

UFO:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00INM0BPG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

power adapters and mylar:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MGG6SC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001WW40Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KB8CB9O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1


(shout out to /u/mcscroggins for posting his build. I referred to it while building. And thanks to other posters in this sub for posting pics of their builds for ideas and such).

Materials I had to buy:

• Computer fan ^((Two, actually, cause I kind of set the first one on fire a little bit..)^)
  
• Power switch
  
• Molex power supply
  
• Two 12x12x0.125 inch sheets of polycarbonate
  
• Weld On #4 Acrylic Glue
  
  Cost me about $50, plus some materials I had lying around. ($60 after that second fan)
  
  Hope this post is informative enough guide anyone else interested in making one of similar design.
  
  Video of it in action
  
  Edit: Also, huge thank you to rcombs and derinerkan of #XKCD on Foonetic IRC network for helping me troubleshoot the fan issue when I set it on fire, and helping me figure out what I did wrong.

I got a molex PSU for the lights and fans inside my bartop.

http://www.amazon.com/Coolerguys-100-240v-Molex-Power-Adapter/dp/B000MGG6SC/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1427306536&sr=8-10&keywords=molex+psu

Tons of adapters for it too.

If you don't mind spending a few extra bucks you can go with something like this.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MGG6SC/

> Most people don't want to buy a second PSU just for powering a loop.

You don't have to buy a full PSU though. You can find a PSU with a molex head for powering the loop on Amazon, $12.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MGG6SC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Really helps when filling/flushing the loop.

Sure!

• Most cables come from Retrocables. Specifically, it's an RGB-SCART Amstrad CPC cable, which converts the DIN video plug of 6128 and the audio out plug to a SCART plug, which connects to most TVs. I also got a molex-to-power cable - both 5V and 12V, so that I can power my CPC without the monitor.
  
• The SD Floppy emulator comes from Lotharek in Poland (so if you're in the EU, there's no customs).
  
• The power brick comes from Amazon - it's a standard Molex power adapter. I also got a cable extension, to give power to both the SD Floppy emulator (which uses a 3.5"-floppy-like power connector) and the CPC.
  
• The floppy cable is a plain standard floppy cable. It came from my drawers :)

Something with Molex power already on it?

How about this?

This is great for filling and re-filling your res with a top entrance.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HFTYIMO

This is a nice item to have for powering on pumps without a PSU.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MGG6SC

I used these to cut and clean my PETG tubing.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PUX9A4Y
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WT6U8U/

Some A/V equipment has power out and all you need is the right adapter. Otherwise, something like this works well enough. Pricing varies a lot with adapters, so digging around might find you a better deal.

There's a 2A one over here on Amazon

My solution that I'm testing this weekend is using a AC -> DC Molex power adapter like this.

Split the Molex into its 5v and 12v rails and power each from both.

This allows for a molex "plug" in the back without sticking the power supply inside the unit as well :)

I have one of these that I use when filling my loop. Works with my Liang D5 vario pump.

I use one of these, great for testing lots of stuff.

if you can solder this is simple.

step 1: purchase fans and LED light strip you want to use

step 2: add together the amperage for both fans and the strip (assuming theyre all running off 12v)

step 3: purchase 12v ac adaptor (also known as a wall wart) that is rated for the combined amperage of your fans and led strip

step 4: solder yellow wires from fans and red wire from led strip to the positive lead coming off of the wall wart. make sure to cover the connection with heat shrink tubing.

step 5: solder black wires from fans and led strip to negative wire on the wall wart. make sure to use heat shrink again to insulate the connection.

step 6: plug it in and test it out. provided you did your math correctly, insulated the solder joints, and didnt solder anything in the wrong place, you should be done.

edit: there is only one premade adaptor ive ever seen for this purpose, and its a 2a maximum current rating. i do not think that will suffice for what youre trying to do, but this why step 2 is so important (it will let you know if you can get away with using the premade adaptor). if you can use the premade adaptor, then you will still need to buy/make a splitter since the premade adaptor only has one 4 pin molex connection on it

link to premade adaptor

I ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR THE DAMAGE YOU MAY CAUSE IF YOU DO NOT ACCOUNT FOR THE PROPER CURRENT DRAW

I'm sort of toying with putting something like you are talking about together. Here's my part list

• Two SFF-8088 to 4xSATA cables for one of my 9200-8e. I already have one of the cables.
  
• Two of [these] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V5JHOXQ/ref=psdc_160354011_t1_B0040Z924Q) enclosures.
  
• Something like this for power
  
  A crimped molex->2xSATA power adaptor. The only reason I haven't jumped on it is because of the power supply. Most of the external Molex power supplies don't have the best power regulation on them, so it could be dangerous to use for drives.
  

To power the setup you will want an AC to DC converter of some sort. You could use a spare computer power supply but something more compact will work just as well. You will want a fan controller to handle the fan and pump speed, running them direct on 12V will keep them full speed and loud.

https://www.amazon.com/Coolerguys-100-240v-Molex-Power-Adapter/dp/B000MGG6SC

https://www.amazon.com/NZXT-Technologies-Sentry-Controller-SEN-MIX2-M1/dp/B00DN3IT7M

To keep things compact you may want to buy or fabricate a box to hold the radiators. Hang them on the sides with the fans drawing air through the top and blowing through the rads. The pump and reservoir could either go inside or attach to one of the two unused sides.

http://www.mountainmods.com/tower-pedestal-p-565.html - Pre-made and awesome but fairly expensive.

Make sure you get quick disconnect fittings and place them on the lines just outside your case for easy separation.

Get proper fans for your radiators. EK Vardar F4-120ER are about the best that money can buy.

Don't be sloppy with the wiring. Use pre-made connections, or use solder and heat shrink tubing.

there are power supplies that will give you a molex on the end. that might be your only option.

www.amazon.com/Coolerguys-100-240v-Molex-Power-Adapter/dp/B000MGG6SC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408998576&sr=8-1&keywords=molex+power+supply

Read sidebar, etc.
Use compatibility checker to confirm your choice of card will work with the blocks that you have picked out.
Putting blocks on a card is not that tough.
Always leak test! Make sure you get some secondary psu for running the pump. I use

1. please really rethink that Deathstalker and tiamat purchase. If you must have razer products, the blackwidow is mechanical and is a much better purchase.
   
   
2. Pump - D5 - read sidebar but all you really need to know. I would personally get one with either pwm or usb control. Vario is also an option.
   
   
3. tubing - size - really doesn't matter as long as tubing, fittings, and equipment are all compatible. Ie G1/4 threads, 1/2" outer diameter tubing and 1/2" fittings
   
   
4. tubing - variety - assume you are using flexible tubing - which i haven't picked up any for a bit ( using rigid now) so ask others about this but there is one without plastisizer issues and that is the one that you will want.
   
   
5. monitors- nice choice, although are you aware the asus rog swift (144hz 1440p ) monitor should be shipping anytime Q2? its going to be a huge step up in terms of lightboost 2, color reproduction ( they say ) and pixel density all while keeping silky smoothness . also gsync
   
   
6. psu - might be overkill for two cards, also I am not sure that the evga is the quietest
   
   
7. also with the processor/mobo, you know that x99 will be out this summer, right? lots of improvements but something to consider...

no no no, that power supply wont work. get the one one the recommended page of the fan page. it needs a molex connector. this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Coolerguys-100-240v-Molex-Power-Adapter/dp/B000MGG6SC/ref=pd_bxgy_pc_img_y

or otherwise youll have to cut the wires and splice them

https://www.amazon.com/Coolerguys-100-240v-Molex-Power-Adapter/dp/B000MGG6SC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524718223&sr=8-3&keywords=molex+power+supply

This is what you want for simplicity, just plug it in.

This if i was to buy it would it work too?

using a molex to 4 pin pwm splitter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071KNT7FW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and an ac to molex psu: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MGG6SC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can control them using pwm from a motherboard header based on temp (orange header), but I just run them full blast, since they don't make any noticeable noise

the rosewill is something I've considered (similar products)

I was looking more at a getting a single molex and getting a molex to 6 pin for each unit. The 6 pin pcie is the only thing powering the unit. That requires me buying two single molex power supplies and two molex to 6 pin adapters which just seems redundant if theres something out there that can have two molex and that's it or two 6 pin and that is.

heres what i planned to do:

(2)http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JIGJR6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3IDT9F5A1GWX6

(2)http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MGG6SC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1KINLM6A40SW

Male molex to male fan adapter should work, and there are also ac to molex power supplies.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Pin-4-Pin-Molex-Male-To-4x-PWM-Male-Sleeved-Fan-Extension-Adapter-Cable-/322899310386

https://www.amazon.com/Coolerguys-100-240v-Molex-Power-Adapter/dp/B000MGG6SC

These are just an example. I didn't look too hard, so you might be able to find better prices or quality, but those together should power it without being hooked up to a psu or motherboard.

Well, I think I've answered all my own questions, but I'd love some confirmation.

https://www.amazon.com/Coolerguys-100-240v-Molex-Power-Adapter/dp/B000MGG6SC

plus

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-2-Pack-3-Fan-Splitter/dp/B01DV1Z0WC/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504181073&sr=1-6&keywords=case+fan+molex

plus 2 of

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835200067

Will that all work how I want it to? At 180 CFM, I sure hope it does.

That depends on which enclosure you have, can you maybe send a link or some example of your encloure? Then i can help you with the power adaptor.

Normally you only need a 12V/2A adaptor for hard drive enclosures, but some take 12V and 5V like yours seems to do, which is slightly unusal.

It could also have a molex plug, if it should really need both voltages, then you can buy something like this: clicky

I found a solution without having to do any DIY:

Coolerguys 100-240v AC to 12 & 5v DC 4pin Molex 2A Power Adapter + Phobya Adapter Cable, 4-Pin Molex to 4-Pin (PWM), 30cm, Sleeved, Black

Thank you for your advice though. I really hope it will have enough pull to work for me for this purpose.

Okay, so the Walmart AC adapter is only 500mA. So that's not happening.

On amazon I found this 5A adapter and this 2A adapter.

Combined with this splitter, would these be a good solution? Is it possible to have too many amps and destroy the pump and fan?

Galvanic corrosion will be an issue any time the two metals are connected by something conductive. In this case, water. Even distilled or DI water - it'll snap ions out of the metals in a heartbeat and instantly become conductive again.

Also, that water block you linked is said to be copper in the title, and then aluminum in the description.

If you could get the 10mm thick block to work, that'd be your best bet. Or you could just build a 100% aluminum loop; it won't perform as well as copper but it'll still be fine for your purposes.

As for the power supply, the one you linked might work but it looks a bit sketchy since it doesn't have an output amperage rating. I've got one of these which is rated for 2A on the 12V; that'll be enough for a good pump and a few fans.

I found this, which you can then get a molex splitter for if the fans can't be daisy chained.

Sure thing! This is what I'm using.

Here you are:

https://www.amazon.com/Coolerguys-100-240v-Molex-Power-Adapter/dp/B000MGG6SC/

You might need another adaptor to connect that to your fan. Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/ModTek-4-Pin-Molex-Connector-Connection/dp/B00MYA3A4C/

I have one of these so I don't have to unplug everything from my PSU

https://smile.amazon.com/Coolerguys-100-240v-Molex-Power-Adapter/dp/B000MGG6SC/ref=sr_1_1?s=instant-video&ie=UTF8&qid=1474472909&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+molex+power+supply
If the drive is IDE

Are they Molex (IDE HDD connector), or small 3 or 4 pin fan connector? For Molex fans/to use with HDDs when needed, I always keep one of these handy - http://www.amazon.com/110v-4pin-molex-Power-Adapter/dp/B000MGG6SC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1313010817&sr=8-1

I have one of these. It works great. I used it to power a fan.

http://www.amazon.com/Coolerguys-100-240v-Molex-Power-Adapter/dp/B000MGG6SC

This is amazing - the best part is I have almost all of the pieces just lying around!

One note: for a little more money ($15), you can get a 110V AC to 12V DC 4-pin molex adapter, which basically gives you a power plug just like the ones coming off of a PC power supply. With a 4-pin to 3-pin adapter to connect to the potentiometer (many fans will even come with these) you could actually do this without any splicing any wiring at all. This is what I plan to do as I have one of these power supplies just sitting around from a past project.

Example power supply

That looks exactly what I am looking for.Now to see if I can find it on a website like Amazon or Newegg

Found it: https://www.amazon.com/Coolerguys-100-240v-Molex-Power-Adapter/dp/B000MGG6SC/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_2?keywords=AC+4+PIN+MOLEX+coolerguys&qid=1566142941&s=gateway&sr=8-2-fkmr2

Now that I am reading this, this isn't going to be short on the power output is it? I have this: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-140-revo-d5-rgb-pwm-incl-sl-pump

I ask because I hear the W_Pump+ header is a 3A header for DDC pumps, and this thing is saying "Up to 2A".

Its also not the same model as the one you linked. So I can keep looking.

Sure, typed a long explanation along with pictures at the end.

I powered the hard drive using its own separate power source through a AC molex power adapter. The PS4 when turned off actually powers off the HDD which is great even tho it isn't on the same power source.

Coolerguys 100-240v AC to 12 & 5v DC 4pin Molex 2A Power Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MGG6SC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_dpJKxbZ5GQ24E

Since HDDs use SATA as their power port, I got a cable adapter to hook it up to the power.

StarTech.com SATAPOWADAPR 6-Inch 4 Pin Molex to Right Angle SATA Power Cable Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0047AAM1Q/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_qpJKxb0Q0PSJ4

I needed to find a 15 pin female connector without the sata part for the data part of the HDD (since the PS4 hooks the HDD with a 22 pin connector. Decided to get a splitter type cable and just shove the sata cable inside the space that the 2.5" HDD goes. Fit perfectly in.

SATA 22 Pin Male to SATA 7 Pin and 15 Pin Female https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C9NEY0S/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_6nJKxb4JA00CY

Lastly, I needed a very good yet relatively cheap HDD. Decided to go with this one because of its high cache which acts like a SSD in the sense that the cache is flash memory aka SSD speeds. 4 TB meant I'll never have to upgrade ever again (I install everything without worrying about space, even games I don't play, and still have ~2.4 TB left. That's a lot!). Enterprise drive gave it high read/write speeds which I was happy about.

Seagate 4TB Enterprise Capacity HDD 7200RPM SATA 6Gbps 128 MB Cache Internal Bare Drive (ST4000NM0033) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A45JEX0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_xmJKxb01NC516

I've bought these back in August of 2015. I have had no major problems by running my PS4 this way however there's two things that I find as cons. The splitter for the 22 pin cable is fairly short in length so the HDD can only sit so far. I haven't looked into a extension type cable as I don't mind it for my setup but I think it's good to mention that.

The other con is that IF your console freezes, crashes, etc. and you need to either unplug the console or shutdown through button, you may need to reset your connections. By that I mean, turn off PS4, then unplug power and data cable, wait 2 seconds, plug back in power and data cable to HDD, and reconnect the PS4 and boot it. It will either start up right away or you have to wait roughly 3 minutes for it to do the "Checking system" because you did a hard shut down. It's happened to me enough times that I know no data will be corrupted by this and you shouldn't worry. I leave my HDD out in the open but you can enclose it if you'd like so long as you give it breathing room and don't block any holes on it.

Phew... What a long reply through my phone 🙂. And... pictures: http://imgur.com/a/tpQCo

A molex adapter is not that expensive to buy. http://www.amazon.com/Coolerguys-110v-Molex-Power-Adapter/dp/B000MGG6SC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1345335228&sr=8-1&keywords=molex+adapter

Definitely stick with PC fans. I'd go with 120mm because the larger fan moves more air while moving slower, so it can stay quieter but still cool your box.

I bought this pack of 4 on amazon, they're almost silent, but you will need 2 or more to cool the cfls. I use 2 of these in my veg cabinet, with some duct on the back of them to lightproof it, to cool 3-4 cfls at the moment, but I don't have to worry about smell from the veg cabinet.

You need to figure out what you are going to do if smell will be a problem. If you need zero smell, then you need to think about a DIY carbon filter and how you will move air through it (more powerful fans would be needed).

For a no-wiring-splicing-needed solution, you can get molex (one type of connector pc fans use) power adapters like this one, and use splitters and adapters, etc to power however many fans you need, or even buy a pc fan speed controller like this one and plug it right in.

note: pc fans have two different kinds of connectors typically, larger molex 4 pins (like I mentioned earlier) and some have smaller 3 pin connector. The ac adapter I linked has a 4 pin molex, and so does that fan controller for power in, but it has the 3 pin for power out to each fan that it controls, and the fans I linked also have small 3 pin connectors. Just something to keep an eye out for if you decide to get more powerful fans than I linked, for example.

To wire mine up, I grabbed a 12v AC-DC adapter (a wall-wart, like a plug for an old router, it says the voltage on the label) and cut the plug on the end off, and cut the connectors on the fans off, then it's one wire to red, one wire to black, if it doesn't work switch them. Some adapters have a white stripe on one of the two wires, that one goes to red. (although I think for most fans it would spin them backwards, arrows on the edges of the fan usually point direction of airflow). Heatshrink it all together (or just electrical tape it really securely) and plug it in.