Reddit Reddit reviews CRC 05103 QD Electronic Cleaner -11 Wt Oz

We found 69 Reddit comments about CRC 05103 QD Electronic Cleaner -11 Wt Oz. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Oils & Fluids
Engine & Parts Fluid Cleaners
Electrical Cleaners
CRC 05103 QD Electronic Cleaner -11 Wt Oz
Quick drying, plastic safe formula leaves no residueIdeal for applications where lower flashpoing materials can be toleratedHelps prevent contact failureThis item is not for sale in Catalina Island
Check price on Amazon

69 Reddit comments about CRC 05103 QD Electronic Cleaner -11 Wt Oz:

u/BillDino · 33 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

This has fixed mine

Found it from a switch mod bot post

u/Arbelisk · 10 pointsr/consolerepair

Take the battery out. Get a toothbrush. Some of this stuff.

Scrub off the board and rinse with highest concentration of alcohol you can get. I use 91%. Repeat until it looks good. Replace the battery, because I'm sure that one is a gonner.

u/efpe3s · 7 pointsr/techsupportgore

If compressed air and a toothbrush don't work, you can hit it with a plastic safe solvent.

u/Shrimptacular · 7 pointsr/SwitchHacks

The one I've seen mentioned the most is CRC.

You're going to have to go to r/NintendoSwitch or YouTube if you want more info because I haven't used it, but I did get a free official fix which I'll write about in this thread.

u/CSBreak · 6 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

try electronic cleaner worked for me and i just used the tiniest spray of it i could i think someone wrote a guide on here at some point

u/BackroadTwistarama · 5 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Hijacking your comment for visibility, although I'm a bit late to discussion here.

I had the same problem many in here have experienced, and this stuff below is specifically made to evaporate dirt that cause unwanted inputs in electronic devices.

I have two joycons that drifted. One was terrible, and nothing I did helped. The tester thing would be full-blown stuck to the right, but after a couple of sprays of this stuff it was good as new. It came back a bit once or twice, but I think there was some residual dirt in there and it's been perfect for the past few months after being completely unusable. After I did this another joycon started to drift a little and one spray has completely fixed it.

Just make sure the joycon is not on when you use it. The spray is liquid for about 10-15 seconds so you don't want anything to be running in there or it could cause damage.

u/troubleondemand · 5 pointsr/audio
u/_thirdeyeopener_ · 5 pointsr/projectcar

Couple things to check that I can think of. Check all of your fuses. Disconnect the battery, then go ahead and just replace them all, they're probably all ancient anyway. Make sure to replace with correct amperage fuses. Check for corrosion on the contacts while you're at it. Clean with contact cleaner and wire brush/emery cloth.

The brake light switch on my '62 was a pressure switch mounted on the brake Master Cylinder, '61s are the same. It's ten bucks from rockauto and wouldn't hurt to replace it, since it's 56 years old.

But the main thing I would look at is the bulkhead connector that goes from the fuse block under the driverside of the dash through the firewall into the engine compartment. My car had some weird electrical gremlins that were intermittent and super annoying. That bulkhead connector is hiding under the Master Cylinder and is held in place with a single bolt. Disconnect the battery to be safe, disconnect that bulkhead connector and inspect the contacts. Mine were corroded bad enough to cause my issues. If yours are corroded, spend some time cleaning both ends of the connector with contact cleaner and a wire brush/emery cloth. When you bolt it back together and it still seems loose (like mine did), pull the bolt out and put a small washer or two on it to help keep the connector tight.

If none of this helps, you might have a bad ground somewhere which will be more a bitch to fix since you'll have to start chasing down grounds to make sure they're all still connected and not corroded. And as has already been mentioned, check and replace all the bulbs. Relatively cheap and probably should be replaced anyway.

All that being said, invest in a Shop Manual for your car. They are worth every penny! Those old books are like the Big Bible o' Buick and will show you how to diagnose, repair and replace almost every part of your car. I highly recommend that anyone with an old car find the one they need and buy it immediately, you'll be glad you did. It will also include highly detailed wiring diagrams ;)

Lastly, sign up on, the single best and most comprehensive Buick messageboard on the interwebs. It's always active, the folks are nice and helpful, tons of info and a large classified section. I highly recommend it.

u/AnTi90d · 5 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

You might try some quick dry electronics cleaner.

Remove the batteries, liberally spray that stuff up in there and let it dry.

Make absolutely certain that it's 100% dry before you try to insert the batteries back into it.

If you can't find quick dry electronics cleaner, locally, Amazon carries a few brands.

u/Naail · 4 pointsr/xboxone

I used to have one of electronic cleaners to fix my old sega dreamcast gamepads :D, if it persists or anything worse happens ,I'll probably use them again.

u/ieatfishes · 4 pointsr/hardware

They make cleaner specifically for electronics:

u/darealmvp1 · 3 pointsr/Tools

Jesus, NO!. The guy said electrical parts cleaner not alcohol. Buy this crap, take your drill apart and douse all the oil off with this shit.

u/Scorp63 · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I believe this is the stuff I used.

Looking on Amazon apparently they do make a special WD40 for electronics similarly priced as well.

u/TheDancy · 3 pointsr/GuitarAmps

Contact cleaner, $4.77 @ Amazon, but you can buy at probably any store like Lowe's.

CRC 05103 QD Electronic Cleaner -11 Wt Oz

And the place on the pot to spray it (about halfway down on the page)

u/WardenWolf · 3 pointsr/guns

Breakfree CLP should dissolve that crap. Then spray it with CRC QD Electronic Cleaner to degrease it. You can get it at an automotive store for cheap. It looks like this:

u/SergeantTibbs · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

Get a can [of this](CRC 5103 Quick Dry Electronic Cleaner - 11 Wt Oz.

Or get the WD-40 Contact Cleaner. Either will work.

Take good pictures of all sides of the stun gun. You’ll use these to reassemble it.

Remove the batteries. Hold down the stun button for a full minute.

Remove all the screws from the stun gun and gently open it up. Don’t worry, it’s not powered, anything in here is safe to touch.

If you can see both sides of the green circuit board, spray them down with the contact cleaner.

If you can’t see both sides of the circuit board, take more detailed photos of the inside of the stun gun. Note where the screws are, and especially where wires go through the case. Remove any screws from the board and set them aside in a different place from the other screws. You don’t want to mix them up.

Pull the board up just enough to see both sides and spray it down. Be generous with the cleaner. Let it drip off the board onto some paper towels. The oil will be carried off along with the cleaner.

Air out the room when you’re doing this, or do it in a garage.

Put the board back in place and wait at least a few hours for the cleaner to evaporate.

Reassemble the board and case, putting each screw back in the reverse order you took them out. Pay close attention to any wires, and make sure they’re going through the case the same way.

Put batteries in and test. If it sparks you’re good.

And then throw it away and get quality pepper spray you can carry and use easily. A stun gun only irritates and it only works as long as you’re there actually pressing the button. What you want is something you can quickly use, throw away, and then run. The pepper spray will take a moment to really kick in, but it’ll pain and blind your attacker for a while, and make it hard for them to chase you.

u/MrBlankenshipESQ · 3 pointsr/modeltrains

> Hey thanks for answering!

No prob!

> I had no idea DC trains shouldn’t run on DCC, TIL!

Yah. The DCC signal more resembles AC than it does DC. Square wave, not sine wave, and the frequency weeble-wobbles all over the place to transmit the data. It's a bit of an oddball signal, really, because it's trying to pass data along and pass actual power along at the same time. There's also a rather surprising amount of current on tap, moreso than the typical DC pack will provide. My command station puts out ~1.3 amps but I can fit boosters to it that go up to 8 amps each.

> How should I clean the tracks?

Ask a thousand modellers, get a thousand responses. I've had excellent luck rescuing filthy tracks with a lint-free shop cloth and this stuff. I'll spray it onto the cloth, then wipe that along the railheads. Dose a snazzy job of gettin' the schmoo off and dries super quick so no slippery residue is left behind. You might also want to look into a bright boy, given how long your tracks have sat, because while the cleaner I use is great at getting dirt off the railheads it won't really touch actual corrosion. For that, an abrasive will be necessary.

> And what exactly are fish plates? It is mostly peco track.

Fishplates...rail joiners...fiddly little bastards that stab the fuck out of your fingers as you work on your track...they have many names, but they're all pretty cheap and it won't hurt to replace them. Make sure you grab a pair that have wires attached if you already have a pair like that, those'll need replacing too for the same reason.

u/darklynx4 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

It would require complete disassembly of the psu and a cleaning of every component.

The best cleaner is something like quick drying CRC contact/electronic cleaner. I've used this many time, and it works really well.

u/JustynS · 2 pointsr/consolerepair

That's how they're supposed to look, don't worry. The pins don't look corroded, so if you've already cleaned them with alcohol, try to use contact cleaner, but if that doesn't work, than polishing them with Brasso will usually do the trick.

But, I do t think the pins are the problem, I took a closer look at your traces and there seems to be two black spots on #9 that could possibly be a break in the traces. Try and check the conductivity if you have a multimeter.

u/HalifaxSamuels · 2 pointsr/oneplus

You could always attempt to fix it yourself. Here's two methods to basically try the same thing; the thorough and proper method, and then quick and dirty (and easier) method. No promising this will definitely fix it, but it's what I would do first in your case.

If you're comfortable disassembling the phone (iFixit has great disassembly guides) you could always take the switch out and thoroughly clean it with something like this by basically spraying in in to the switch, switching it all the way up and down a number of times, and repeating that two-step a few more times. Give it a little blast of compressed air to help it dry (that stuff already dries fast but may as well help it out) and reinstall it once it's dry. If you dropped it in water there's likely some residue in the switch that's shorting it in one position.

Optional method if you really don't want to take it apart: take a few minutes and just slide the switch all the way up and down a whole lot. If there's residue it might scrape it clean. Both of these processes are assuming the contacts inside the switch aren't corroded, in which case it definitely would have to be replaced.

u/mikey2style · 2 pointsr/AstroGaming

Like this?

CRC 05103 QD Electronic Cleaner -11 Wt Oz

First ive heard of this but looks like it has other uses.

Thanks for the tip!

u/Myname345 · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Have you tried contact spray? It has worked for a lot of people. Blast it with this stuff

u/verywise · 2 pointsr/ender3

I picked up mine from a RC hobby store, and it's branded for RC stuff:

T. A. Emerald Performance Plus 4, TAE4200

I don't really have a preference for this brand. I'd just get something like this, since they are all pretty similar:

u/NESCollecta · 2 pointsr/nes

I don't like using Brasso unless it's my last option. It definitely can leave a residue.

Pop open the cart and clean the contacts with fast evaporating contact cleaner. Set the PCB on a spongy mousepad and use a high polymer white eraser to loosen up the gunk.

u/maultify · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Get some electrical contact cleaner (I used this), spray a little bit in each side, roll/click it a couple times, wait for a half an hour. Mine's been working flawless since. I received a replacement and it developed the same issue, but this fix works.

u/Tanuki-te · 2 pointsr/howto

You need this: or a similar product.

There are little particles of dust between the male and female parts of the jack, which prevent them from making a good connection on one side, and therefore lowers the volume by increased resistance in the circuit. Just spray a little in the hole occasionally, and wipe the jack. If that doesn't fix it, and it's not a software issue, then you likely have some of the wire strands breaking on one side, which increases resistance on that side and lowers the volume. This usually happens right near the jack where you do the most bending. Sometimes you can fix that by moving the jack up a few inches, but it isn't necessarily easy, and you have to know how to solder wires. An electronics repair shop can do it, but it may not be worth the cost.

u/AlmightyDog · 2 pointsr/techsupport

I had a similar issue. Not sure what controller you have, but on mine, a Logitech F710, the sticks are not digital, they are analog potentiometers.

Basically its a variable resistor. It has the disadvantage of mechanical arm that sweeps against a surface to vary the voltage output. This contact point can become dirty, or in extreme cases, wear off.

I took mine apart, and even though I couldn't open up the potentiometer to inspect it, there were enough gaps in the case of the thing that I could get a squirt or two of electrical contact cleaner into it, and then rotate the stick around to "scrub" off any dirty spots on the arm/surface contact point. It has worked fine now for over a year.

This is what I used.... found it at a auto parts store near by, but you should be able to find it at some hardware stores or online:

Just look up your controller's model number and "teardown" or "repair" on youtube, and if its a popular enough controller, there should be tons of videos on how to take it apart safely.

u/Pieman492 · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Have you tried using Electronic Contact Cleaner (somthing like this)? It's like some sort of magic drift fixing fluid. Just use the nozzle that comes with it, put it underneath the thin rubber sheet between the stick and the inside of the joycon and spray. Once I did this and after it dried the single worst case of joystick drift I've ever seen in my life was fixed.

u/GothamCountySheriff · 2 pointsr/vinyl

You might try cleaning the pot for the pitch adjustment with plastic safe electronics cleaner. Caigs DeOxit Red is a great product for that. CRC Electronics cleaner would also work. For reference:
(can be found as Hosa Cable Cleaner at music stores like Guitar Center)

Do you know the OHM rating on the Kustom speaker cabs?

u/shiny_roc · 2 pointsr/Dell
  1. Don't put it on the fridge. Condensation is bad for electronics.
  2. Don't use a hair-dryer because that will just bake on all of the non-water components of your coffee.
  3. If you have accidental damage coverage in your warranty and are still within the warranty period, invoke it.
  4. If you don't have accident coverage or are outside the warranty period, you can get Dell to repair it for you, but it might cost as much as buying a new laptop.
  5. You can try taking the whole thing apart and cleaning anything that has coffee on it with electronics cleaner and a lint-free cloth. Dell's service manuals are pretty easy to follow. If it still doesn't work after cleaning, you're probably going to need to replace the motherboard and anything else that got coffee damage.
  6. Get a spill-free coffee thermos.
u/yoyomah20 · 2 pointsr/fordfusion

to get to the camera you need to remove the lining on the inside of the trunk (the tailgate, movable piece). You have to remove both tail lights attached to the movable piece of trunk (3 11mm bolts each), then remove the long piece of body that stretches between the tail lights under the ford logo. This is held in by 4 10mm bolts that can be seen through the little openings in the metal (you'll know what I am talking about once you get this far). Then you can pull on the long piece of bodywork that the camera and trunk release button are attached to. Then you should have access to the camera. If its working about 30% of the time, it could be a loose or dirty connector. I'd pick up some electronics cleaner (such as this) at walmart and spray the connections and see if that helps. Good luck!

u/moondawg25 · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

CRC 05103 QD Electronic Cleaner -11 Wt Oz --- what I use. Lasted me a year now and pretty good use. Still feels full.

u/rotopenguin · 2 pointsr/thinkpad

I have had a memory socket go bad once, it happens. It could also be some crap on a contact. Worth trying some contact cleaner (get a can, you'll find other places to use it), gently spritz down a dimm edge, and work it in and out a bit. Give the stuff a little time to dry off before turning your system on again.


u/artist508 · 2 pointsr/airsoft

The SRC is based on the TM style V3 G36, evike even carries the SRC replacement for it. The custom M4s yeah, you might have to just swap the metal parts of the trigger assembles.

I would try cleaning the switches first like Rapturehitler said. If you can get a can of CRC plastic safe or DeOxit it is very effective when cleaning contacts.

u/Dewey_the_25U · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Probably, you can take it apart and see if there's any corrosion and use it a little bit of contact cleaner with a brush to remove it.



I use the brush and contact cleaner at work whenever components get wet and have started coating what I can with a Nonconformal Silicon Coating to try and save me some of the headache. It's not ideal, but yey. =/

u/Elgand · 2 pointsr/PS4

I don't intend to contradict the above answer, because it is certainly a viable and good solution. I would go one step further and purchase electric contact cleaner.

This is what I use

This contains no water and will clean it up with no issue. It is more expensive, but I have been happy to have it on more than one occasion. Make sure you don't get any on the joysticks though, it leaves a white residue on soft plastic. The residue can easily be cleaned, but it is annoying.

u/bexamous · 1 pointr/Multicopter

I usually spray whatever I have handy, most often CRC eletronics cleaner or WD40 brand silicon spray which is awesome because its got built in nozzle that doesn't fall off...

Anyways I spray something just to get hardened dirt a bit moist, or in general any liquid will help cut down on friction ... spray motor, then point datavac into motor best I can, not using any attachments or anything and then start rotating motor back and forth. I try not to force, like I'll just start turning other direction if it gets stuck a little... just back and forth is the goal.

Combination of lube + airflow + rotation to sorta nudge stuff / change direction of airflow on a piece of dirt, usually after like 30s motor is pretty dirt free. If after 30s it still can feel dirt, like my lazy side will make me just to force rotation more... might scratch up stuff but will also break up whatever little rocks or whatever stuff is stuck in there. Just try to avoid it as much as possible but in the end motor is like $20... not worth babying it.

u/Goofball666 · 1 pointr/techsupportgore

Electronic Parts Cleaner spray and hope:

Next time apply MAX a grain of rice sized amount on the CPU and then spread across the top with something flat. The goal isn't to drown the CPU, it's just to fill in any small spaces between the CPU and heatsink to improve thermal conduction and avoid hot spots.

u/The_Friskies · 1 pointr/Harley

I wouldn't put that chemical on my tires or get it anywhere near my bike. It's practically lacquer thinner in a can and will eat up your paint and plastics if it splashes on them.

I use CRC QD electrical cleaner. It makes the oil drip right off of anything, is plastic safe, doesn't hurt painted parts of my engine or wheels, and it doesn't leave a residue. It's the best on my old bike when I'm trying to track down an oil leak. clean the whole engine with it, start the bike and see where the oil starts seaping from first. I pick it up on amazon when it drops below 4 or 5 bucks a can.

Dish soap is the best alternative though.

u/HubbaDubba2017 · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch some of this solution around the sticks should fix the drifting issue

u/Lone_Beagle · 1 pointr/n64

> flush the button component on the circuit board with 99.9% pure electronics grade isopropyl alcohol

This stuff is the bomb!

u/radiance89 · 1 pointr/Gameboy

The main worry with rubbing alcohol would be water content. I would not try to work 70% alcohol into the switch. Higher alcohol content is more likely to dry out perfectly in a tight space like that.

Electrical contact cleaner is nice because the pressurized bottle will be easier to spray into the switch than alcohol. You can try alcohol, but definitely be sure to use some compressed air and be confident that you have completely dried out everything before applying power. is the electronics cleaner I personally like using.

u/ALonelyPlatypus · 1 pointr/FortNiteBR

Electric contact cleaner took care of my joycon drifting. Only 5 bucks on amazon.

u/dragonrider4141 · 1 pointr/Breath_of_the_Wild

6 bucks for a can of electronic cleaner give it a try if you dont want to pull your joy cons apart

u/Higlac · 1 pointr/buildapc

I use this stuff. Like a hot knife through butter even on 10 year old oem paste.

u/BadMantaRay · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Mine started drifting a bit a few weeks ago and I bought some electronics cleaning spray off amazon that someone recommended. Sprayed into the stick housing, waited for it to dry, problem solved :)

CRC 05103 QD Electronic Cleaner -11 Wt Oz

u/water_mellonz · 1 pointr/Gameboy

Found this one to work better than that one, although the CRC does dry much quicker than the WD-40 electrical contact spray. The Wd-40 electrical contact spray broke up the corrosion where the other one didn't move it one bit. I sprayed a GBA board with the WD-40 when trying to chase down a bad power issue.

Oh, cleaning the on/off switch really well is also a must. Wetting it with isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol will do similar cleaning. I find the contact sprays seem to do a better job. Just my experience.

u/ahenkel · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Just use electronic contact cleaner

Edit: It is probably not necessary to use this for slightly dusty components. We're talking horror show dirty.

u/ajax54 · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

This is the stuff.

You can get it at walmart in the automotive section for the same or lower price.

If you are outside the states, there are a few altenatives. It needs to be safe for plastics, and 'no residue', preferably 'Quick Drying' or "QD"

u/JoshuaJSlone · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

The solution which seems to have worked for most people (including me) is to use just a little bit of this quick dry electronic cleaner under the stick's plastic sheath. As the instructions were given to me, lift up the sheath enough to spray in a bit using the included straw attachment, then circle the stick around a bit. Do the same on the opposite side, to make sure it's getting everywhere. Give it just a little time to dry before using the controller. Since it's hard to spray out just a tiny amount you might get some outside of the stick, but it's harmless and also will give you an indication of how fast it dries.


EDIT: And yes, this is a very common problem. One of Nintendo's biggest engineering screwups this go around.

u/ItsNotMeTrustMe · 1 pointr/Vive

This kind of thing:

I don't know about that particular brand. That's just the first one that came up when I googled. Should be fine, though. I imagine it'll still void your warranty much like opening it up would. But you'll probably fix it in seconds instead of months...

That's a video of a guy cleaning knobs on a guitar amp. But cleaning a knob is a cleaning a knob, so it should explain what I'm talking about. I haven't watched it though, so it might be boring.

u/daltesean · 1 pointr/Waxpen

You can try some electronic contact cleaner from the auto section of walmart, if its stuck that will free it, but if the button is broken ... its broken.

Here is a amazon link so you can see what it looks like but it will probably be half the price at your local walmart.

u/Jelzap · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Seconding this. Electronic contact cleaner is the only thing that has fixed my drift issues on my left joycon, after trying compressed air and a toothbrush to no success. Thankfully it’s pretty cheap (around $5). The drifting occasionally returns every few months on my joycon, but every time it does, I just apply some cleaner, and the problem is resolved.

u/b_lett · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Maybe it's just an exception what happened for me, but the electrical contact cleaner I used left a little bit of a sticky residue, so it's possible it did not dry properly after ending up on the pins.

I used the same contact cleaner consistently recommended here, and I can't say it evaporates completely as suggested. On the back it even says "Allow to dry thoroughly and vent before reactivating. Product may collect and pool in unseen areas."

I worked a few years in electronic retail and tech support, and have an IT certification, so I promise I've tried to do my research in troubleshooting my own issues. I've heard of the tape method, and read about replacing the plastic latches with metal latches at the top; but in my case, I do believe I needed more than anything to clean the pins. Any combination of these can only help.

u/tralce · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

I can weigh in. My girlfriend and I have almost exactly the same home-built PCs. Mine is below my desk, and hers is on her desk. We both vape at our desks.

One day her computer stopped reacting at all when the power button was pressed, just like if it was unplugged. I busted out my power supply tester and multimeter and it tested fine. After quite a bit of troubleshooting I discovered that the area of the board with the north bridge and power control circuit, along with the bottoms of the RAM slots, and the entire back of the GPU, were coated in VG.

I should mention, I suppose, that we both almost exclusively vape my DIY ("Creamy Nuts") which is 3mg max VG with a little TFA bavarian cream and TFA hazelnut praline, no sweetener.

I pulled the mobo and GPU out of the computer, ran to the local auto parts store, and bought a can of CRC electronics cleaner which I used in conjunction with an air compressor and Q-tips to blow/scrape most of the VG residue off the boards.

The machine is working fine now but the whole cleaning process took several hours. When I got to trying to figure out exactly how it happened, I realized that she does have a higher-than-normal-flow 120MM intake fan in the lower front of the case, and everything that had residue on it was in direct line with this fan. This build up happened over the course of about 9 months.

PLEASE be aware of where you are exhaling, when you're around electronics! After this incident I checked my desktop and my server and they are both fine. This happened just because of a crappy combination of factors, but it can absolutely happen to anybody.

u/UMDSmith · 1 pointr/FordFocus

There has been a lot of good advice. One I can offer is, disconnect the battery, open the fuse panel, and spray QD electronic cleaner in there.

If the carpet got soaked and the foot wells are wet, you may want to think about pulling the seats and the carpet out and letting it dry, as anyplace that water pools may lead to rust at worst, or a moldy smell eventually.

Any exposed electrical connection can be given a quick covering of di-electric grease after they are cleaned:

Any metal on metal contact areas that got wet, such as hinges, seat sliders, etc hit with some WD-40 to displace water and prevent rust.

Pull the horn fuse for now to stop it from sounding all the time. The headliner removal is a bitch, since you need to remove all the pillar trim, which may mean removing seat belt shoulder bolts, which normally requires a big torx socket bit. If it is a hot dry day, unplug the battery and leave your car fully open (all doors, hatch) all day. It will really help drying it out.

u/MeghanBoBeghan · 1 pointr/DQBuilders

I used CRC QD (quick-dry):

Seems kind of overpriced on Amazon. I got it from an Ebay store for about $6. It should also be at places like Walmart and Home Depot.

u/boosterpackpack · 1 pointr/GalaxyS6

CRC 5103 Quick Dry Electronic Cleaner - 11 Wt Oz.

I use that stuff but anything you find that's safe on plastic is also fine.

u/Tissue285 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Was it plugged into the wall? Even when "off" there is usually power still going through the motherboard...

i would remove every component from the case and completely dissemble it. Then I would go to an auto parts store and buy some CRC Electronic cleaner and spray everything down good. Don't focus on one area for too long as it will get cold FAST with this stuff. Then reassemble and give it a try.

u/short_lurker · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I had the same issue with one of the linear bearings for my Folger 2020 too. Just like you I had put some oil and grease to try to help it, but it didn't work. I started over and wash it all out with some electric parts cleaner spray and blew it dry with light compressed air (get the QD for plastic safe) and that improved it.

Also try orientating it so the lines of bearing balls sit at 45 degree angles on the smooth rod like in the left example of the first attached picture in this post. I did this for my x and y axis. For z I just lined up both bearings. it really helped.

u/nmrk · 0 pointsr/funny

I always keep a spray can of Contact Cleaner in case of keyboard accidents. This will solve (and dissolve) your problem.

I recently spilled a cup of coffee (with sugar) into my brand new Magic Keyboard. Oops. I sprayed contact cleaner into it immediately and forced all the coffee out. I sprayed the solution under all the keys, then tapped it keys-down onto paper towels until the solution came out clear instead of brown. My keyboard came out perfectly fine (I'm typing on it now). Accidents like this, with sugar in the coffee, usually cause permanent damage. But not if you're well prepared.

Warning: I suggest you do not buy this brand, which will only cause further confusion.

u/ShittyFieldTech · 0 pointsr/buildapc

Use this and all the mineral oil will be gone in no time.

u/namelessted · -1 pointsr/buildapc

I would use a spray electronic cleaner like this or this.

I have found the WD-40 brand stuff at local hardware stores like Home Depot or Lowe's and it works great. Have cleaned off old motherboards and a GPU that had sticky soda all over the back of it.

Otherwise, as others have suggest, alcohol with wipes or q-tips. I just think the can and spraying the fuck out of it is the best first step to get the majority of it cleans and then using qtips for detail work if you find residue.

Also, as other have suggested, take all the components apart and clean them all separately, making sure the contacts and sockets are as clean as you can get.

How does somebody sit on a computer and piss in it? I've been blackout drunk before, but I can never understand how people can't find a toilet or bathtub/shower to piss in. Otherwise, wouldn't you just piss your clothes wherever you happen to pass out?