Reddit reviews DC Power Supply Variable(0-30 V 0-5 A), Eventek KPS305D Adjustable Switching Regulated Power Supply Digital, with Alligator Leads US Power Cord
We found 6 Reddit comments about DC Power Supply Variable(0-30 V 0-5 A), Eventek KPS305D Adjustable Switching Regulated Power Supply Digital, with Alligator Leads US Power Cord. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
DC Power Supply Adjustable: 0-30 volts and 0-5 amp outputs; the Back-lit LED display accuracy: 0.1 V and 0.01A , Could be used for electro etchingConstant voltage and current operation mode (C.C and C.V. automatic conversion); Light weight with heavy OutputIntelligent temperature control with built-in thermo-sensor, effectively reduce noise and prolong the life of productMultiple protections: limit current protection, thermal protection, voltage overload protection, short-circuit protectionEventek Power Supplys are FCC certified; 30 Days Money Back 12 Months Limited Guarantee for you !
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071RNT1CD/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use a regulated power supply. Similar to this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071RNT1CD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_69N1DbPAKQTZV
You want to make sure to use DC (Direct Current) and not an AC(Alternating Current. The regulated power supply lets you adjust the current and give more control. I use 5VDC for Carbon Steels and 12-25VDC for Stainless. I put the Positive on they item I want to etch and the Negative on a bolt with rubber bands holding a cotton balls on it. I use just salt water. Always keep it moving around when you are etching. I finish with a brass wire wheel to clean up. I get my stencils made from a local vinyl shop. They work great for me.
Do you think there's a market for this sort of thing? Like, if you were to sell the equivalent for $75, do you think there's enough people that would buy it to make it worth the time? Thinking about whether it would be worth the effort to make up a little version of this :)
I would be curious to see what the chip # is, as well as the 3-pin part on the side (under the grey heatsink putty).
I have a feeling what that active circuitry does is actually act as a constant current regulator to charge up the caps. The problem you will have with so much capacitance is getting a massive inrush when you first connect the power supply. Ie, the caps will look like you shorted the power supply until they reach the operating voltage. The power supply probably won't like that.
So, having said that, to answer your question about capacitance: You can try experimenting.
To start with, it looks like they have a 2200uF cap + 6 of whatever those other things are (still assuming they're flat pack caps, but they could be something else). My feeling is that they're probably some lower value to deal with some of the higher frequency components.
I would buy a selection of beefy caps, and just start putting them in parallel with the power supply. Make sure they're rated to be at least 16V!
Instead of the constant current circuit, you could have a toggle switch (make sure it's rated to at least 1.5A) in parallel with a 1-ohm power resistor.
When you want to connect power, you have the switch in the open position, then connect the power supply. Wait maybe 10 seconds, then flip the switch to the bypass / shorting position to remove the resistor from the circuit. At that point, you can use the camera.
Something like this:
https://imgur.com/a/5VgBx
EDIT: screwed up on power jack, more like this: https://imgur.com/a/00ujw
EDIT2: You can also buy constant voltage / constant current power supplies. Lab power supplies are an example. They won't care if you short the output; they'll happily limit the current to whatever they're set to. Actually, most wall adapters have a similar "anti-short" protection of some sort built in, so you might be able to get away with not using the switch / resistor trick.
You could buy something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Eventek-KPS305D-Adjustable-Switching-Regulated/dp/B071RNT1CD/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1523427142&sr=8-5&keywords=lab+power+supply
I swapped the cheapo power supply with one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071RNT1CD/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And The same thing happens. I've got the Current dialed all the way, with the voltage at 5.5 (same as the power supply that works). It shows a 1.4 Amp draw, which the supply should be more than able to handle. Same deal though, servo runs to zero. Still works fine using the dedicated 5v supply putting out 5.5v.
There's a ton of them out there, but something like this is fine. If you are trying to go really cheap, then a battery charger is just fine. Just avoid newer ones because they usually come with an automatic shut off that won't work with your solution. There are a lot of electrolysis tutorials, but just knock any flaking paint off after you're satisfied and prime and paint. You might consider a self etching primer with a rust inhibitor if it's going back outside.
like this?
https://www.amazon.com/Eventek-KPS305D-Adjustable-Switching-Regulated/dp/B071RNT1CD