Reddit reviews Devcon 31345 2 Ton Clear Epoxy, 25 ml

As long as this doesn't go in the oven (or get hotter than 180ºF / 80ºC) of course it can be glued, and with fine, strong (but still slightly visible) results.

u/GondorUr is probably right, it would be easiest to return it and that would have the best results, but...

u/pobroin has the right attitude, considering their appreciation of kintsugi, and so do you, I presume, since you are asking about repairing, rather than replacing.

u/BcookieOmonsterB is right, that cyanoacrylate (Super Glue, Krazy Glue, etc.) works well with ceramics, but cyanoacrylate works best on nonporous surfaces, and when the surfaces fit really well with the least possible gap. On ceramics, especially if not fired to the point of being vitreous, there's often a few grains that will get dislodged in the glue, while fitting the pieces back together, that will stand in the way of ever getting a truly close fit. So...


As this job is a nice clean break, and a simple two pieces. It's the perfect job for a two-part epoxy, which is plenty strong and will fill any small gaps with virtually no loss of strength, unlike cyanoactrylate.

Your best option to repair (rather than replace) is a two-part clear epoxy. Since you're asking about this, I assume you haven't worked with glues much, and are unfamiliar with the process, and may be a bit slower than someone more practiced. Different epoxies have different working or handling times, and since you don't want to rush it, look for longer than 5-minute epoxy (this one gives you a full 30 minutes, but that's a lot longer than you should need for this simple job - look for a 10-minute epoxy).

• Dry fit the two pieces together to make sure they do fit well, and dust off any loose grit or chips that remain on the broken surface. Don't clean the surfaces with any water, soap, or cleaning agents, just a clean dry toothbrush or similar.
  
  
• Lay down some newspaper or something else disposable to protect your table/counter/work-surface (a sheet of parchment paper works really well here, as drips are less likely to stick the paper to your lid). There will almost certainly be drips.
  
  
• Get some tape and have it close to hand for clamping the glued pieces together, later. As the lid has a nice smooth glazed surface,almost any tape will do, but something with just a little bit of stretch, like electrician's tape or duct tape would be best, as you can pull the tape a little tightly across the mend, and the elasticity of the tape will give just a little of a slow steady tug, to help to squeeze out excess glue,and snug the two halves together.
  
  
• Squeeze out equal amounts of resin and hardener (or whatever ratio the instructions recommend, usually it is 1:1, and the double-syringe tubes, like the one I linked to above, help you keep the amounts fairly equal) onto a disposable surface, such as a clean tuna can lid, a piece of parchment paper, the bottom of a soda can,whatever,and stir them together really well with a popsicle stick, a nail, a cuticle stick, or some other disposable applicator. Stir well, making sure scrape all around the edges of the puddle, to incorporate all of the two components, so it is fully and evenly mixed. Also, make sure you mix up more glue than you will need, because you want to do the gluing all in one go, especially if you are using one of the quicker 5-minute epoxies.
  
  
• Place the lid halves on your protected work surface. Using your mixer/applicator, smear a line of epoxy all along the centerline of one of the broken edges, about a third as thick as the edge. Doesn't matter if you go thicker, but don't go much thinner, and do make it a continuous bead, all along, from end to end.
  
  
• Slide your two pieces together, carefully lining them up as accurately as possible. Press them together firmly , keeping your hands down at the edge for the most part, perpendicular to the crack (crack runs north to south, hands at west and east).
  
  
• Take a strip of your tape and stretch it across the glueline, from one piece to the other, down there just above the rim, pulling the tape a bit tight to give it some stretch. Do the same for the other end of the crack, again, just above the rim. (NOTE: you start here at the rim, rather than in the middle, up near the knob/handle, because downward pressure up there at the center, could press the center down, rocking the two outer edged of the two halves up and away from each other. Out at the rim, downward pressure has almost no torque to tip the halves.) Now add about three other strips of tape, spread out along the glueline. (Edit: additional strips, again, go west to east, from one half to the other, across the glue line, not along or in line with the glueline, with a bit of stretch/tension).
  
  
• Flip it over and and place a couple more strips of tape on the underside.
  
  
• Before the glue has cured (hardened), using a clean dry cloth or paper towel and acetone, mineral spirits or isopropyl alcohol, gently wipe up any excess epoxy that has squeezed out the crack onto the surface.
  
  
• Leave your work undisturbed, to cure, for the recommended amount of time, however long it is, 5, 10, 30 minutes, before handling it any further, and allow a full 24 hours, before putting the lid to work
  
  
• After curing, remove the tape, and use a sharp knife or razor blade to carefully and thoroughly scrape off any excess cured glue there.
  
  
• Wash and proudly put into service.
  
  Edit: Yay! Silver! Thanks for the alms, secret Samaritan.
  
  Edit 2: Clarification added to taping procedure

Epoxy. I like Devcon 2 Ton. Bonds anything to anything. Just make sure you don't use too much; a little really goes a long way.

I just tried it myself for the first time and was quite proud of the results...
Imgur
I used 30-minute epoxy to give me plenty of working time and applied just a tiny bit at a time to give it a chance to spread over the entire area I wanted it to cover. Use a toothpick to both apply and remove any excess epoxy.
Here is the tutorial I watched before I tried it myself.

Devcon 2-Ton

https://www.amazon.com/Devcon-31345-Ton-Clear-Epoxy/dp/B0006O8QQ0

Seriously..

The Golden Nib has very good brush knots that are less expensive and without the shedding problems reported with the Whippeddog knots. I’ve made a number of brushes with their different knots and have been pleased with all of them. This is the Waterproof Epoxy I have been using. Setting a Brush Knot.

Edit: Just noticed that TGN now sells a waterproof epoxy

A hardware store. It's this stuff. Not expensive at all.

It looks like there isn't any screws in that hinge. Whoever made this likely just used an adhesive.

This Devcon glass epoxy dries clear, and is pretty strong for glass to metal joints.

Whichever route you take, please post pics here. I'm interested in it myself

EDIT: My first knife BUILD

This was an awesome experience! The most important thing I learned was to make sure to tape far enough down the blade to prevent the epoxy from getting on the blade. :/

Blank: https://www.amazon.com/Condor-Knife-Bushlore-Blade-Silver/dp/B00WTH01K6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465848087&sr=8-1&keywords=condor+bushlore+blank

Scales: http://www.rockler.com/bolivian-rosewood-by-the-piece-1-4-thickness?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PL&sid=V9146&gclid=CN7e6_m3yM0CFUFehgodNFUMkA

Epoxy: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006O8QQ0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pins: https://www.amazon.com/Unpolished-Finish-Extruded-Standard-Tolerance/dp/B00CNLVD1E

Finish: Natural Danish Oil

You could get some 2-ton epoxy and carefully apply it around the hinges with a small disposable brush (like the ones that come with kid's watercolor paint sets). This stuff cures to be hard as a rock, clear, it adheres nicely to metal, and should provide the support you need. Don't get 5 minute epoxy because that isn't as strong and turns yellow.

Just be sure to carefully measure out equal parts resin and hardener and THOROUGHLY mix them. I mean mix them for like a full 2 minutes. Otherwise the epoxy may not cure properly and might come out tacky.

The epoxy starts to set up in about 30 minutes after you have mixed it, so you will have enough time to apply it to the hinges. After you apply it however, you will want to keep turning the glasses over in your hands otherwise gravity will cause the epoxy to sag. 2-ton epoxy is frequently used as a protective clear coat on custom fishing lures, and lure builders like myself make "turners" like this to prevent sagging. Obviously you're not going to want to build one but you can accomplish the same thing by slowly rotating the glasses around by hand for a minimum of 30 minutes, an hour would be better. After that is done just let it cure however long it says on the package.

Slow-setting epoxy is an alternative. This one has been serving me well.