Reddit Reddit reviews DIYMAG Powerful Neodymium Disc Magnets with Double-Sided Adhesive, Strong Permanent Rare Earth Magnets for Fridge, DIY, Building, Scientific, Craft, and Office Magnets, 1.26 inch Diameter, Pack of 6

We found 8 Reddit comments about DIYMAG Powerful Neodymium Disc Magnets with Double-Sided Adhesive, Strong Permanent Rare Earth Magnets for Fridge, DIY, Building, Scientific, Craft, and Office Magnets, 1.26 inch Diameter, Pack of 6. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Industrial & Scientific
Material Handling Products
Industrial Magnets
Rare Earth Magnets
DIYMAG Powerful Neodymium Disc Magnets with Double-Sided Adhesive, Strong Permanent Rare Earth Magnets for Fridge, DIY, Building, Scientific, Craft, and Office Magnets, 1.26 inch Diameter, Pack of 6
MAGNETS COATED - Ni+Cu+Ni Triple Layer Coated. The Best Coating Available, which Provides a Shiny and Rust Resistant Protection for the Magnets.POWERFUL MAGNETS - Made of Strongest Magnetic Material! Strong Holding Power, Holding Power is not Less than 18 lb. per Magnet with Direct Touch and Direct Pull. It has a tensile force even larger than a 3 inch diameter ferrite magnet.DIY PROJECTS & SCIENCE EXPERIMENTS - Refrigerator Magnets, Shower Door, Work or Office, Scientific Purposes, Arts and Crafts or School Classroom.QUALITY - Made under ISO 9001 Quality Systems. The Highest Quality Available! 30 Days Money Back !VARIOUS SIZES - If you need to buy more sizes of magnets (e. g. 3inch, 4inch, 5inch, etc. ), please search for DIYMAG brand. DIYMAG provides professional design and consultation service according to customers’ requirements.
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8 Reddit comments about DIYMAG Powerful Neodymium Disc Magnets with Double-Sided Adhesive, Strong Permanent Rare Earth Magnets for Fridge, DIY, Building, Scientific, Craft, and Office Magnets, 1.26 inch Diameter, Pack of 6:

u/unreqistered · 11 pointsr/cycling

Magnets my man, magnets.

Get some Neodymium magnets and some GoPro stickies and you can mount just about anything

u/antoinemo · 5 pointsr/flying

Couldn't find a nice iPad kneeboard and was thinking of DIY. Would a magnetic mount on a kneeboard disturb the magnetic compass? (i.e. with magnets like those: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XD2X45M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1, 3 on the kneeboard, 3 on an ipad case, and you got yourself a nice magnetic holder).

u/bmuhtneerg · 3 pointsr/Dynavap

Dont quote me on this because I am not sure what type of magnet they use but I have used rare earth magnets before and those things look like the one in the dynastash and they are super strong. just google rare earth magnets...you can get them on amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XD2X45M/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_b1NcM6l_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=W6YR9F9WSGGQ8D2Q9PXA&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=a9b59d08-5252-5d67-bf88-a2ac96acd022&pf_rd_i=1265130011

there is an amazon link

u/TrialAndAaron · 2 pointsr/SomebodyMakeThis

It's an infinity table with some wood and a bottle opener on it.

On the back of the wood you can take a forstner bit the size of a rare earth magnet and drill a hole the size of the magnet.

Use two part epoxy to secure the magnet in place and there ya go.

u/tokercoder · 1 pointr/Dynavap

You can also order dynamags separately from dynavap or find a similar magnet (here are several on amazon with stickers on one side for about $10 https://www.amazon.com/DIYMAG-Powerful-Neodymium-Permanent-Scientific/dp/B06XD2X45M ) and there are also other sizes/shapes available of that type of magnet on amazon.I also saw someone else mentioning that you can get several for 2 or 3 bucks from Harbor Freight if you have that store nearby. Grab some magnets and improvise something. :)

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[Edit -- the key for any magnet is "diametrically magnetized" and I admit I didn't verify that terminology when I mentioned the magnets above, except for the dynamag itself. But amazon has them for certain.]

u/Stuntz-X · 1 pointr/functionalprint

I like magnets and metal tools. Things just stay in place. Like this
something like this. good for keeping something in place. Just something to think when making things that hold tools. They are pretty cheap and do well in a ton of situations. one of those discs holds at least 10lb hammer they have smaller and thinner ones that work well for smaller stuff. Take a look

u/Ubiquity4321 · 1 pointr/mandolin

Step 0: Read this entire tutorial several times.

Step 1: Remove the strings. If this will cause the bridge to fall off, mark the body where the bridge is EXACTLY with masking tape.

Step 2: Determine if the crack runs over any bracing on the underside of the top, and if that bracing has been damaged. You can do this several ways; I use a small mirror and a flashlight looking at that crack, and the bracing. Do a google image search for what mandolin bracing looks like, and you'll know those little spines are what you'll be looking for.

Turn off the lights in the room you're working in and use the light to see if there are other cracks as well.

If the bracing is cracked, you'll have to fix that too. It's just as important as the top.

Step 2: You will need to purchase a bottle of Titebond glue, some cheap superglue, a pack of neodymium magnets (cheap on [amazon]https://www.amazon.com/DIYMAG-Powerful-Neodymium-Permanent-Scientific/dp/B06XD2X45M/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1517603237&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=deodymium+magnets)), a big roll of masking tape (get a name brand), a roll of string, a pair of safety goggles, some nitrile gloves, a paper towel or two, and two to three popsicle sticks to do this on the cheap. You also want a towel you don't care for as well as a table that you'll be able to use for a few days.

Instead of a roll of string, you can purchase clamps that extend from one side of the mandolin to the other. String is cheap, and luthiers have used it for hundreds of years.

I use Titebond II for my repairs, but I or III should be just as good. Depending on how old the instrument is, it may have originally used Hide Glue, if you want to keep the original glue type.

The tops of guitars and other instruments that use the top as a reverberation device (the "tonewood") are usually made of Sitka Spruce. The Janka Hardness Scale shows Sitka Spruce as:

Janka Hardness: 510 lbf (2,270 N)

The Janka Hardness scale of a popsicle stick (usually Baltic Birch) which isn't actually a wood, but a grade of wood. It means that, generally, popsicle sticks are pretty variable hardness from stick to stick.

Approximate substitutes to show variability:

Yellow Birch -- Janka Hardness: 1,260 lbf (5,610 N)

Paper Birch -- Janka Hardness: 910 lbf (4,050 N)

The hardness of very hard woods is in the 10- or 20,000 N, so we are far from that.

This is important to note because you generally want the same hardness wood as the original top was made with to patch cracks in the top, so that the tone resonates properly to avoid deadening the sound. As Baltic birch is not much harder, but easily obtainable, it will serve as our "cleat".

Step 3: Tape up the corners of the instrument (where the top meets the sides) with three layers of masking tape, and also tape around the edge of the break as absolutely close as you can get with as little wood showing as possible. Patience is key at this point, and you don't want to mess up the top or the corners, or cause more issues. When you get to laying glue out, things happen quickly, so be sure that everything is very close at hand.

Step 4: Cut 3 pieces of a popsicle stick about an inch long a piece. Round the corners on these three inch-long pieces of popsicle stick. You now have 3 popsicle stick cleats. These three are all you'll need, but we have extra sticks just in case you lose them or butcher one.

Step 5: Tape the top of the magnets with a square of tape that more or less covers the top of the magnet. Lay a generous dot of the cheap superglue on the back of the tape that is covering the magnet, and put a second square of tape on top of that so that the sticky side is up. This is your clamp and tape sandwich.

From the bottom to the top, your sandwich looks like: Magnet, tape, superglue, backwards tape with sticky side in the air.

Do this for three magnets.

Place your three inch-long popsicle stick ovals onto the sticky side of the tape.

Your sandwich now looks like, from bottom to top: Magnet, tape, superglue, backwards tape with sticky side in the air, popsicle stick cleat.

Step 6: Lay the mandolin down on the towel that's on the table, with the neck to the left. Position the masking tape under the neck to support the neck. If it doesn't reach, stick a few rags or an old shirt under there til it's nice and pillow-y soft, and supports the neck.

If you have clamps, ensure are padded and ready.

If you're using string: Tie a fist-sized loop in the string, so that you can pass your hand and the entire roll of string freely through the loop. Position this loop on the other side of the mandolin, with the rest of the string and the ball extending toward you under the mandolin.

Step 7: This is where the fun begins. Ensure you have the next hour free of distractions. This will go quickly.

The cleats will be positioned perpendicular to the grain of the top of the mandolin. The grain of the top of the mandolin is usually from the tailpiece to the neck. The goal is to not only position the cleats directly underneath the crack, but have the long side of the cleat going from where you're sitting to where the loop of string is. This will ensure a strong bond and ensure that it doesn't break again.

This cleat will be on the underside of the top of the mandolin, so do a test run of placing the three (dry) magnet sandwichs underneath the crack, and placing the other three magnets at equal intervals along the crack. These will be your cleat clamps.

If you're using bar clamps instead of the string, try a dry run of using them to squeeze the sides of the mandolin together now. Not too much pressure - don't crack the corners or sides.

This is the time to get this correct. When you think you've got the idea down, remove the dry run pieces and get ready for gluing.

Step 8: Place titebond on the tops of the cleats. Rub it around with your finger. You don't want too little or too much; you want just enough that the glue will stick and set.

Glue your mandolin crack with the titebond. You don't want too little; Clean up any squeeze out with the paper towels. Position the cleats under the crack on the inside of the mandolin at equal intervals, with the grain perpendicular to the grain of the top of the mandolin, and clamp up with the magnets. Clean up any squeeze out with the paper towels.

Clamp up the sides so that the crack comes together. Clean up any squeeze out with the paper towels.

If you're using string, take the ball of string and run it through the loop. Start wrapping from top right to bottom left, then bottom left to top right of the mandolin body. Move inward to the center of the body. Your goal here is to ensure a tight clamping and the crack to be sealed. Clean up any squeeze out with the paper towels. Work slowly but purposefully.

Step 9: Let this sit for 24 hours. Don't touch it. Don't fiddle with it. Leave it alone.

Step 10: After 24 hours, unwrap it or take the bar clamps away, take the magnets away (carefully peeling the tape away) leaving only the cleats on the underside, and clean up any popped-out glue seam that you see with a carefully placed blade, ensuring you don't scratch the top of the mandolin.

Restring, and it's fixed!

Or you can take it to an instrument repair shop and they'll do allll this for you.