Reddit Reddit reviews Dynamat 10455 18" x 32" x 0.067" Thick Self-Adhesive Sound Deadener with Xtreme Bulk Pack, (Set of 9)

We found 10 Reddit comments about Dynamat 10455 18" x 32" x 0.067" Thick Self-Adhesive Sound Deadener with Xtreme Bulk Pack, (Set of 9). Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Dynamat 10455 18
Country of origin : United StatesModel Number : 10455Package Weight : 23 poundsPackage Dimensions : 21" L x 12" W x 3" H
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10 Reddit comments about Dynamat 10455 18" x 32" x 0.067" Thick Self-Adhesive Sound Deadener with Xtreme Bulk Pack, (Set of 9):

u/404_UserNotFound · 2 pointsr/standupshots

For a avg car figure $300+install if you're not doing it yourself. Amazon has 9 18''x32'' sheets for $150

u/buzzingbuzz · 2 pointsr/DIY

There are several brands of sound dampening material. The most popular is Dynamat.

http://www.amazon.com/Dynamat-10455-Self-Adhesive-Deadener-Xtreme/dp/B00020CB2S

It's very expensive. I'd check to see if your existing carpet has sound dampening material under it already. Some car manufacturers don't glue them together. Also about this Dynamat, it's very heavy so if possible try to look for an alternative. Removing the carpet will require moving both front seats. Any center arm rest or console and floor trim. I'd recommend using the old carpet as a template for any new carpet you buy as a reference where to cut small holes with a razor blade for bolt holes. If the carpet is not in horrible condition you can also consider removing it and pressure washing or cleaning it once removed. That's your best bet. Throw in a new set of floor mats and it'll be like new.

u/gettinskooled · 1 pointr/skoolies

I'm not at the bus, so let's apply some extremely crude guestimations.

  • 10' - length from front of cab that we want sound deadening applied
  • 7.5' - width of floor (x10 = 75sqft)
  • 7.5' - width of ceiling (x10 = 75sqft)
  • 2' - height of side panel (x10 = 20sqft)
  • 10sqft estimate for paneling above/below windshield

    All that adds up to 180sqft. We won't cover all of it, so let's roll with ~25% coverage. Cut strips and run them along the most open portions of the panel (where they vibrate the most.) Thats comes to ~45sqft.

    We're applying Dynamat Extreme. One box covers about 2sqft. It would take 22+ boxes at a cost of $153.00 per box = a whole lotta nope (or $3,366.) In our case we'll be using dynamat on the most egregious noise makers. For example the front panel above the windshield where "School Bus" is typically written. Oncoming wind is going to make this panel especially noisy. For all the other areas we'll be trying to source left overs that people don't need or hunting for sales and discounts.

    We're keeping a tally of all costs on our bus. We want to share that with everyone. Probably the best way to know when we advertise that is to follow us here or on YouTube.
u/omapuppet · 1 pointr/CarAV

I had good results on a full-sized van for about $350 using a box of Dynamat for $150 and a roll of MLV for $200. I was able to reuse the foam already on the floor.

I tried to get about a 30% coverage with the dynamat, focusing a little more on panels that sounded louder when I tapped them (like the wheel wells). I know in cost-is-no-object installs they go for, like, 120% coverage, but a more conservative approach seemed to work just fine for me.

I did 100% of the floor and up the firewall with the MLV, and then hung it most of the way up inside the walls. I didn't do inside the front doors because lazy, and also because on this vehicle the thin single-barrier door seals are the main source of cabin noise.

Good results for the money IMO, it makes my 1991 van sound a lot more like a modern vehicle. Road and exhaust noise is greatly reduced. I still get a lot of wind noise from those damned door seals, but you won't have that issue on relatively modern Excursion.

u/blockrocker · 1 pointr/CarAV

You can different sizes of DSP's, so yes one will do ya. And yes DSP's are a magic bullet for your system, but they can be pricey.

Sound Dampening is installed directly to the vehicle body (inside) and is amazing for eliminating unwanted vibrations and road noise. It is a must in my opinion......even more than the dsp.

u/AveryCloseCall · 1 pointr/sca

I've seen Dynamat used to great effect.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00020CB2S/

u/illuxion · 1 pointr/CarAV

It's pretty close, you got 5 x 18" x 32" for $70 versus $140 for 9 x 18" x 32" Dynamat extreme bulk. 20ft^2 versus 36ft^2. When I got my 2 bulk packs, they were only $110 each. The foil is a little thicker on the dynamat, but the butyl is a bit thicker on the maxxlink.

There's also 50ft^2 of Fatmat Rattletrap for $110 which is pretty good stuff. Thicker foil and butyl.

Deadener helped a ton in my accord but every time I chase one rattle, 5 more come up.

u/riversofgore · 1 pointr/Honda

Dynamatt doesn't weigh that much at all. I've got it on all 4 doors and the tailgate which took like 4 rolls. 9 rolls of it weighs 20 pounds. So, even using 18 rolls of isn't going to make a noticeable difference to MPGs.

u/Improvised0 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I don't know of any one single solution here, but I'm guessing your best beat would be to use a few things.

One thing that I'm not too sure about is the door. Are those louvers open on the top or closed and just part of the design? If they're closed, I'll assume something is bringing in air for the water heater. If that's the case then you can cover the back of the doors in something like this—used for car audio.

Assuming you don't mind the look, you could then add something like this in front of the doors.

Then make sure all your door jams and gaps are filled in with something like this.

That all said, if airflow is needed through the doors for the water heater and those louvers are open for that reason, then you're out of luck. The only option then would be to replace the doors with something solid, do everything I stated above, and then get airflow either from the outside, or by somehow tapping into the return air on your air handler (possibly requiring the fan to be running at all times).

It might be worth having someone check your duct work too. I mean, having a air handler or forced air unit in the middle of your house is always going to make noise, but if the ducting us undersized or not well done, it will make the noise worse.

Edit: I should clarify. I might have mistakenly assumed your water heater had the heat pump on it. If that's the case, it will need fresh airflow. If your heat pump is a separate unit outside of the closet, then it's very possible non of your appliances need fresh airflow in the closet, but make sure.