Reddit reviews E-Z Lok 400-6 Threaded Insert, Brass, Knife Thread, 3/8"-16 Internal Threads, 0.625" Length (Pack of 10)

You could use some of these and these

Here's an amazon link if you want to make your own for the inserts.

Taken from /u/janisco 's DIY page on his website that linked here.

If you plan on doing more than one, it's cheaper to buy them from amazon. Here's a 10 pack for $7.

These are cheap, or you can order these and make whatever you like!

Looks like the brass threads are something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Z-Threaded-Insert-Internal-Threads/dp/B0026GZU0Q/

3/8" - 16 looks like the right threads, check with your faucet manufacturer though.

Tool this:

https://www.amazon.com/Z-LOK-Drive-Tool-Optional/dp/B00209X86W/

​

This is neat, but it does assume you have some tools to make the handles look good. You're resawing the wood with your table saw and getting accurate length cuts with a chop saw. These tools are expensive to own and take up a lot of space.

I think it would be really cool to have a wood laser to put a design on the handle, or I guess you could paint them with chalk paint and change them as you see fit. I will probably do this because I need some better labeling on my keezer.

I got that advice too when I asked around during my own tap handle project and after checking around a bit more, I don't think it is correct, at least not for these inserts which are a little different that the ones in that video.

OP /u/darthKOTOR correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like you are using these inserts, and the manufacturer makes a drive tool that very clearly is designed to insert them with the slots facing out. (Though the method OP uses with the bolt and two nuts drives them much better).

I took a photo at the time illustrating how different the two threaded inserts are. On the right, just one from Home Depot like in the video you linked, and the left is the E-Z Lok brand. Note how different they are. I can definitely see the HD type variety having the slot pre cut the threads like in the video you link, but in the E-Z lok brand, the threads don't even cross the slot in the same way so they don't really work like that.

3/8"-16 Internal Threads, 0.625" Length

If you google around, the hardest thing about the insert is getting it straight, which, if you don't have access to a drill press, is problematic. As madmatt suggested, a way around this is to drill a slightly bigger hole than needed, add some JB Weld and then add the insert into your handle, place on your faucet, straighten and let cure.

NOTE: You need to close the top of the insert so weld compound isn't getting into the inside of your thread -- you can superglue a circle of some aluminum sheeting or similar to the back hole to close it up. And, generally, just be careful -- you want to weld the insert into the handle, not to your nice shiny perlicks.

• I purchased http://www.amazon.com/Buddy-Christ-Statue-Dashboard-Driver/dp/B000AP5974/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1345173521&sr=8-2&keywords=buddy+jesus but I think it was about $7 when I purchased it.
  
• Then I got a table leg from lowes and stained it with a nice mahogany stain I had lying around (same stain as the kegerator wood).
  
• Drilled a hole in the bottom of jesus and used gorilla glue to hold it in place.
  
• Drilled a hole in the table leg and used (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0026GZU0Q/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00) from amazon for the tap handle thread.
  
  Did a similar process for the lightsaber tap handles.

E-Z Lok 400-6 Threaded Insert, Brass, Knife Thread, 3/8"-16 Internal Threads, 0.625" Length (Pack of 10) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0026GZU0Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xrhzDbXQKTEEM

These are far better than t nuts, granted I don't know if this is the right size. Search for knife treaded insert of the size you need.

To kind of separate my post from your questions here are just some recommendations when kegging.

• buy the o-rings in bulk. You'll see the ones from my spreadsheet that came with at least a hundred of each. silicone for gas side, buna for beer side. Dont need silicone for beer side really so you can go cheaper. But change them liberally. They are major causes for gas leaks and it sucks when you have a leak and lose a whole tank of co2.
  
  
• in regards to o-rings. always lube them up with some keg lube or food grade lubricants.
  
  
• buy a fish pump, carb cap, and a few hose clamps. This will make cleaning your beer lines much easier
  
  
• in regards to beer lines, dont listen to those calculators that tell you, 3 ft of beer line is enough to carb 12 psi. You'll have a froathy waste every pour. I use 4-5 foot lines for my porters, stouts or other beers that i keep around 5psi. 9-12' of line for mostly everything else. also, the OD and ID of the beer line matter.
  
  if i think of anything else, i'll update or make another post.
  
  EDIT:
  
  
• tap handles are expensive. Get some cheap plastic ones like i have in the album that i posted to start off with and if you're crafty, you can make your own with some of these. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0026GZU0Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  here's a post i made a while back of one that I made. You can see some more on the bottom left that I made as well. https://www.reddit.com/r/Homebrewing/comments/4mz9tk/i_enjoy_making_tap_handles_and_made_this_one_for/

Well, I bought these, I'm going to pursue setting them up in the next couple of days.

I use these 2 options for my 3D printed taps. This project was my first time using the chromed brass ferrule and they are far better than the brass inserts I have used in the past.

AJS Beer Tap Handle Standard Ferrule and Hanger Bolt : I use a 3.9mm ⌀ x 23mm hole with at least 4 walls and glue.

E-Z Lok 400-6 Threaded Insert, Brass, Knife Thread, 3/8"-16 Internal Threads, 0.625" Length : I use a 7.4mm ⌀ x 17mm hole with at least 3 walls and glue.

More details in the imgur album, but here's a quick synopsis:

After having my kegs stuffed in a fridge with picnic taps, I decided it was time to build up a proper keezer. I already had kegs, lines, CO2 tank and regulator. So it was a relatively inexpensive project, aside from the freezer itself.

Here's the build list:

• Freezer - MagicChef 5.9 cu ft
  
• Temp Controller - Inkbird pre-wired (heat/cool)
  
• Taps - Perlick 301SS taps with 4" shanks
  
• CO2 - 4-way distribution manifold * Collar - Inner box: 1x6" knotty pine. Outer: 1x6 walnut, Danish oil natural
  
• 1.5" insulation foam sheathing
  
• Aluminum tape
  
  Already had:
  
• 5# CO2 tank
  
• Dual pressure regulator
  
• Beer and air lines, Corny kegs, ball lock connections, etc.
  
  
  The build:
  Most of the build was pretty straight forward. Make a box, drill some 7/8" holes in the box, etc. Adding the insulation foam was kind of a pain and got little foam pebbles ALL over the place. The aluminum tape really helped to keep the foam from breaking off inside the kegerator, and makes the rough cut edges look nicer. And on a functional side, should seal off air gaps and make cleanup easier.
  
  I ended up picking up some blind nuts that have the same thread pattern as the taps. They were about 5 bucks on Amazon for 10. You simply drill a hole in whatever you want to make a tap handle out of and thread in the nut. I took some leftover pine and walnut scraps and glued them up. The nuts are a challenge to get in straight, which took a few tries.
  
  The drip tray was a challenge, mostly because the drip tray itself was not perfectly square. I measured the tray and mistakenly assumed it would be square. But once I built the box it was obvious it bowed out a little on the sides. Some amount of cursing and smashing with a hammer later got it close enough. I attached the whole assembly to the front with construction adhesive after roughing up the paint with some sandpaper.

I'm not sure of the brand of the insert but it's the kind with knife threads. I made a simple inserter tool with a 3/8" bolt.