Reddit reviews E3D All-metal v6 HotEnd Full Kit - 1.75mm Universal - Direct, 12v - Approximately 120mm PTFE (ASSEMBLY REQUIRED)
We found 13 Reddit comments about E3D All-metal v6 HotEnd Full Kit - 1.75mm Universal - Direct, 12v - Approximately 120mm PTFE (ASSEMBLY REQUIRED). Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
High Quality Printing: We've kept our sharp thermal transition that gives the high quality printing performance users have come to expect from E3D HotEnds. A sharp thermal break gives better control over filament output so you get more immediate start and stops when extruding as well as retracts that are more effective in combating ooze. This means sharper, more accurate prints that have less stringing, oozing or blobbing.Adaptable: The V6 is a fully-integrated part of the E3D Ecosystem. Our range of nozzles and blocks gives you more opportunity to choose how you want to print. Choose from different filament diameters and materials to take your printing to the next level, and upgrade for ultra high-temperature printing!Support:We have an active user base on many printer forums, including RepRap Forums, Google+, SeeMeCNC, Solidoodle, Ultimaker and many others. We also maintain our own E3D Forum where many people share and collaborate on clever solutions for mounting on various printers. We value the community that use our product and look to support development wherever possible. We're always there to support you in using your HotEnd - whether that means giving advice on public forums, or private email supportTechnical Support: Please reach us at e3d-online.com/contact with detailed technical information.
Hot end
extruder
controll board
stepper drivers
stepper motors
I used the repetier firmware configuration tool to get my firmware image.
Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!
Here are your smile-ified links:
hot end v6
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^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot
I'm sure that others will jump in here too, but my research has shown the MicroSwiss ALL METAL hotend tends to have many more problems than the E3D all metal hotend.
The MicroSwiss has the advantage of being a plug & play direct drop in, while the E3D you have to print a mounting plate.
That said, the E3D is a superior design (IMHO) with tens of thousands in use on many different 3D printer brands.
The MicroSwiss all metal seems to have problems with clogging, and some users have actually gone back to the stock hotend.
The E3D also allows upgrading to the Volcano version which many think is the cat's meow for the CR-10 machines because of their big build area.
The Volcano uses a 40 watt heater and a long nozzle to give a longer heat up time for hotter filaments being extruded at high speed (the plastic is in the melt zone longer, gets more time to melt).
The Volcano also opens the door to much bigger nozzles like .8; 1.0; and even a 1.2 which allows extruding much more plastic cutting big print times dramatically and also gives much greater parts strength.
I plan on getting an E3D GENUINE hotend. I have an E3D clone on my Monoprice Select v2.1 and it was a LOT of trouble to get it running right, sometimes it pays to not cheap out! LOL!
Here's the E3D page, as well as two sources:
E3D Home: https://e3d-online.com/v6
Amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/E3D-All-metal-HotEnd-Full-Approximately/dp/B00NAK9JFO
Filastruder: https://www.filastruder.com/products/all-metal-e3d-v6-hotend
One nice thing on Filastruder is that you can customize the kit you buy .
Now I prepare myself for the slings and arrows from happy MicroSwiss people. :-)
PuterPro
Did you just order the E3D HotEnd Full Kit as seen here on amazon or did you order other stuff too?
https://www.amazon.com/E3D-All-metal-HotEnd-Full-Kit/dp/B00NAK9JFO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487899807&sr=8-1&keywords=e3d+v6
Would this one be goodhot end v6
You are good, no worries!
I got this guy:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NAK9JFO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I believe it's genuine, but if not I can at least attest to its validity. Literally ZERO issues over the past year and a half. Prints beautifully.
If you prefer getting it straight from them, here's ya boy:
https://e3d-online.com/v6-all-metal-hotend?gclid=Cj0KCQjwoKzsBRC5ARIsAITcwXHo8yYQOrXG0QXg0n_A2hYDcjYz5T8NXcjrL9MagUbDfNrqgSl04vEaAmc5EALw_wcB
It fits right into the carriage of the old one where it clamps around the heatsink and you put the fan on the front, just like the original.
Two big changes with this.
First:
The new wires it comes with are great, but sadly not the same plastic connectors on the end that fit into the motherboard down in the printer, so I chopped off the old ones and swapped them over to one end of the new wires, so they could be plugged in.
I never soldered before getting this printer, but, as I like to stay... "YOU GON' Learn Ta-day!"
Leave enough old wire there for error (or I did at least, for shrink wrap or electrical tape to more than cover the solder point). The convenience of doing this is the other end of the wires leave connectors right near the hotend for the thermistor and the fan which can be disconnected for any reason you need in the future. (its also a negative I found later- as its a flex point on the wire, my thermistor wore out there due to the constant movement and I replaced it for just 8 bucks. However, this is where those quick connectors near the hotend paid off though, because zero soldering required. I snagged a few extras for longevity.
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Secondly:
Once it is installed you'll notice it doesn't stick down as far, and when you go to "Home" location, you can't get lower to reach the bed.
If I was home I would snag a picture.. but basically I got longer bed screws (4), 4 spacers (1/4 inch I think?) and incorporated the same springs on top of the spacers (with the longer screws through them). I just took an original screw into a hardware store, found longer versions and spacers that looked like these below:
https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Spacer-3ZMA8?cm_sp=Product_Details-_-Products_Based_on_Your_Search-_-IDPPLARECS&cm_vc=IDPPLARECS
You'll need spacers OR new longer springs... your call. Pain in the butt to put it together but once screwed in, works like a charm with the same functionality as it did prior, just higher up where the new hotend can reach it.
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Feel free to reach out if you have more questions or concerns.
I don't think the temperature is off.
I followed the instructions for selecting the correct thermistor.
My hot-end is https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NAK9JFO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1#feature-bullets-btf
I have #5 selected in the Marlin firmware for the thermocouple
define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5 / 100K thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan & J-Head) (4.7k pullup) /
Like this? It is $60+ on Amazon. E3D All-metal v6 HotEnd Full Kit - 1.75mm Universal - Direct, 12v - Approximately 120mm PTFE (ASSEMBLY REQUIRED) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAK9JFO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SpqQCbDZASXYV
This all I need?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAK9JFO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_63fyybPVBF44H
Wow.. this is easily the longest reply I have ever gotten. I have replied much longer before but yeah.. Not complaining at all thanks for taking the time to write it. I will reply as I read through.
Wiring for me I have never been all that hesitant to. I have been hit with 120 a few times and it's mainly a burn for me. The one that really surprised me though was taking apart a blender and well I had shorts on and you can touch one wire and be fine just not both unless you and the wiring are grounded of course. Anyway I was on my bed and one wire was touching my leg and the other I grabbed with my hand... So that was an interesting experience.
I am the type that will take one of those cigarette lighters that electric spark? take off the guard, put your thumb over it and go... clicky clicky...
As for the JST bit I appreciate the links. I am familiar with them and how to do that I just never have. I would need a reason to get them, maybe this is it? But the wago or other lever type connectors seem to be easier and or cheaper. I will figure it out when it gets here.
> personally I mangled the connector housings and pins on my stepper cables trying to swap pins over.
Yeah I think you need the pin remover. I was watching a few youtube videos about it, and well here I believe is the one I watched. Relevant portion is at the 7:05 mark https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RhU0D7fDR98 It's called an extraction tool, or extractor. There are quite a few different ones for different applications. If I got into solderless pin connections that's one of the things I would buy.
So for me going that kind of connector route would be about 10 or so for the extractor, 20 for the crimper, maybe 10 or so for the connectors. But let's say it was just 30 or so total. Ok... or I could go with the wago lever connectors for 15 and could splice 50 sets of wires that could be undone with a flick of a lever. It's not as nice looking as a connector but it's still doable. Also knowing me, I'd still throw some heat shrink tubing onto the crimped pins. But I already have that and a heat gun.
>Building a cat proof mdf enclosure for the printer so I can take it home within the next month or so is on the cards.
I plan on copying the corner bracing and modifying those. Well I want to replace all the melamine parts eventually but yeah. The idea would be to modify those in a way I could easily attach side and top panels. Likely something like 1/4" plexi glass. I don't like how the socket caps stick out, so I would use countersunk screws to make the screw head flush with the printed brace. Then either on the back side hollow out a section for a neodymium magnet for each corner and do the same for the plexiglass, or maybe thumbscrews? Or possibly just make it so it's like the side of a PC case where it slides in and out The top would likely be semi permanent and attached with screws but the sides would be like just slide the panel up and take it off that way. The front maybe the same way or use hinges or whatever. I don't think I will print any ABS I hear enclosures could help with that. My main reason for doing it is dust. Dust I hear can mess up prints so keeping it enclosed may help with the quality.
For me an MDF enclosure would be really easy to do, I may do that as a frame then attach plexi to the outside and just have a box that goes over it? but that to me seems like cheating and or wasted space... also no challenge. I like challenging myself so unless I absolutely need it and I can't figure out the other bit then maybe? But what I have in mind should be relatively easy to do.
About the router stand... Looks good, but I must admit when I read "router", I thought of like an actual router well the woodworking kind.
The CTC-3D clone? or? I haven't looked into those so I am not very familiar. I am mainly interested in kits not fully working right out of the box... and you answered that later in the post... nice.
The fan bit. I plan on tinkering around a lot with that well the shroud bit. I have thought of an experiment to try to test out which ones are better, and I will throw in different speeds, different nozzles as well and document the process. I will take a few that others have designed, and design some of my own to see how they differ in performance. The test will be of multiple prints of a similar object, essentially 2 poles at varying distances, like half an inch up to say 3 to 5 inches or however long to see how far each can bridge the gap with little to no sagging. Then maybe ledges at varying lengths.
As for the V6 clone bit. I already bought one of these J-Head V6 Bowden and an MK8 Bowden feeder. I primarily got those to see if I like the bowden setup over the direct. If I find out I like the direct I will probably get this. If I like the bowden bit I think I could still get that one and just change out the heat sink and use the other bits. Either or fun times ahead.
>Or even the new e3d aero if you don't want v6 style eating into your build height.
If I need more build height, I can just get some longer rods, and some longer 2020's and extend it out. My main thing is I wanted 12"^2, since this is like 15.75" unless it takes 3.75" more of build height away I don't think I will fret too much.
>Definitely use the stock for a few months
A few months is an eternity for me. Maybe it will take that long to get built and dialed in? Who knows... Either or... the plan is to get the printer from kit form built and working and at least functional with prints. The only "change" will likely be with a 12x12 glass or mirror bed. Once it's up and running and I have a base to work from that I know works. Then I will change it over to bowden with the ones I linked and try that out for a while. Then decide whether I want to get the e3d one or not. The only reason I'd get the e3d one is the socks which I could buy seperate and the hotend tube. If I could find that bit seperate I probably wouldn't buy the complete kit. I know I can buy the "clone" version but the teflon tube is used as a liner and I'd like it to potentially be able to get up to around 300c without worrying about that liner melting. I also plan on getting some stainless nozzles and maybe... just maybe one of the tungsten ones. Not necessarily to use with this printer but likely the one that I design and build after this one. Think multiple independent extruders(not sharing the same block), and large... er build volume. I won't get too much into that idea right now though.
>I'd say the z axis rods are the one part of this built machine that is a little more difficult to access/disassemble easily
Yeah I'd say that looks fair. But that's also one of the selling points for me. That design looks rock solid. Even with the shitty melamine. I think once you get the binding figured out on the Z and have an idea how to do it regularly it will become less and less of a pain. As for the threaded and smooth rods, and only the threaded need to be somewhat loose? I heard it was pretty much all of them until it was aligned properly. Try loosening all of them up a little bit. Running it to the top and bottom then go to the top, tighten things down then down to the bottom then tighten. That should resolve any binding. From my understanding at least. It doesn't seem like you have tried that approach yet.
>TBH the melamine parts aren't that terrible.
Well for me I am not hugely against it but yeah. They work just not for my liking. I was initially hoping they would be actual solid melamine. But it looks like it is actually a melamine coating on top of low quality mdf. If it was actual melamine it would be a lot harder and wouldn't crush that easily. Actual melamine is a lot closer to a plastic than what that appears to be. Here in the states at least melamine is commonly put over particle board for counter tops. It's good so long as you don't get water on the edges as it will eventually swell.
As for the bracing... I assume you have home improvement stores there? If so try to find some of these if you don't want to print out new ones. Just figure out the dimensions you want with those flat corner braces and use those. You may need slightly smaller M5's but those are pretty cheap as well. Or if you have a grinder... you could knock a few MM off the ones you have.
>standard board will do the job just fine. The lure of touch/colour screens for 32 bit SBase boards isn't really for me.
I don't think I will go the touch screen route designed for these, If I go that route I will likely add wifi capability, and add a small tablet with browser functionality ;)... The reason for me, for 32 bit is 1/128 stepping, as well as quieter motors, and can be more complex without the program stuttering due to not being able to keep up with the needed calculations. With that I plan on trying to see the maximum print speed I can get and still get decent quality. Just to give you an idea. I plan on bolting it down to a heavy surface due to the inertia of the motors going side to side to keep it rock solid, that may give you an idea on how fast I am planning on cranking this or the next one up to, and yes I know I will likely need better motors and or stronger drivers and crank up the current. Maybe even a stouter belt system? Enclosed chain perhaps? Or longitudinal setup like this? http://www.technicopedia.com/8094/8094-2longitudinal.jpg, well without the extra bits.
As for the USB bit I am going to tinker around with that and SD card, I have a spare laptop I don't really use I can use for that purpose.
> E3d
you mean something like this right????
https://www.amazon.com/E3D-All-metal-HotEnd-Full-Approximately/dp/B00NAK9JFO
Try this ones
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https://www.amazon.com/E3D-All-metal-HotEnd-Full-Approximately/dp/B00NAK9JFO/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2RY68WD3KQDGT&keywords=e3d+v6+hotend&qid=1562208147&s=gateway&sprefix=E3D+%2Caps%2C275&sr=8-3 *original*
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Cheap version
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https://www.amazon.com/Gulfcoast-Robotics-Extruder-Printer-Filament/dp/B07B4FHN72/ref=sr_1_7?crid=2RY68WD3KQDGT&keywords=e3d+v6+hotend&qid=1562208147&s=gateway&sprefix=E3D+%2Caps%2C275&sr=8-7
You are correct. The stock Ender 3 does not. But the stock Ender 3 also doesn't come with an all metal hotend or any of the other mods that I've installed.
For example:
E3D All-metal v6 HotEnd Full Kit - 1.75mm Universal - Direct, 12v - Approximately 120mm PTFE (ASSEMBLY REQUIRED) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAK9JFO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KiiqDb0BZFYEK
Or:
https://e3d-online.com/thermal-compound-paste
My all metal hotend kit came with something identical in the package. If it's not supposed to be used for the hotend, why would they include it? /Whereabouts were they thinking I was going to apply it?