Reddit reviews Elenco Soldering Iron Holder
We found 8 Reddit comments about Elenco Soldering Iron Holder. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Standard issue Soldering Iron Holder for Pencil style soldering ironsDual coiled springs to protect users and work from burns and damageSponge for tip cleaningMetal base for stability and durabilityFor 30 years Elenco has been developing reliable & affordable electronic test equipment, tools, and educational kits
op pls, you're giving me anxiety
If you are a total noob, I suggest you just get any 60 W soldering iron. Really. This one suits you and cost less than $10. Because getting a FX-888D now is like killing mosquitoes with cannons.
You also may need a stand where to rest the iron when not using it. It comes with a sponge so you can clean the iron tip from time to time (just don't forget to wet it before use).
Finally, you will need some solder. Stay away from lead-free solder, this stuff isn't for amateurs. Get a good-old 63/37 solder with rosin flux core, this one have a 0.3 mm diameter, small enough to even solder SMD components (but don't start with them, they need more practice to be hand-soldered).
Soldering isn't a difficult skill but it requires practice. So you better start small and take easy steps. In no time you will be soldering SMD components. :)
PS: you also want to get some desoldering wick and a hand vacuum pump/solder sucker, those are more useful than you might think.
DISCLAIMER: all these items are just suggestions, buy whatever you think is more useful for you. Just wanted to give you a start point.
I recently bought one of these for myself and I couldn't be happier as a DIY hobbyist:
Hakko Dial type temperature limiting soldering iron FX600
I only use it for hobby stuff such as Quadcopters, 3D printers and electronics kits but it's way better than the 8watt USB powered I was using before.
Pair it with this and this and you should be good for a while and roughly within budget.
The capacitor was nothing fancy, just a 2200uF capacitor. Apparently that one capacitor tends to be a bit of an issue in that model of player for whatever reason...
I'm pretty sure that the iron I have is this one along with a holder that looks just like this one, though I'd have to go double-check the iron to be sure that's the one I have. Seems to work pretty well, and you can replace the stock tip with this little pointy one to work on small stuff better.
If I had nothing and wanted to purchase decent quality stuff but still being affordable, I'd do the following.
Multimeter $45
Soldering Station $38
Solder $25
Desoldering Pump $6
If this is the only time you ever plan on soldering, then you can get away with the cheap stuff. You could probably source some of it locally for cheaper. None of this is great quality, but it will do the job for a 1 time project. While I wouldn't enjoy it, I could build an Ergodox with the following setup.
Desoldering Pump $6
Multimeter $13
Solder $9
Soldering Iron $8
Iron Holder $6
> Can you point me in the direction of a guide to fix it? Thanks for the response, also.
r/AskElectronics can help you find the problem and fix it. You will need a soldering iron and related accessories. This is what I got for myself to fix my mouse:
You will save money in the long run by fixing your stuff. Use your rights or lose them. Right to repair was first lost when consumers started tolerating proprietary batteries. Then proprietary non-replaceable batteries (NRB's). Then disposable devices. Then pre-paid charging. Then pay per charge. It keeps getting worse. The only way to stop it is to go back to the beginning and eliminate the proprietary NRB's. Before you can regain the right to repair, you first need to regain the right to open your device and put in new batteries.
There are 2 subreddits committed to ending the reign of proprietary NRB's:
Another notable subreddit with right to repair content:
You can learn more about this issue here:
> research found repair was "helping people overcome the negative logic that accompanies the abandonment of things and people" [...] relationships between people and material things tend to be reciprocal.
A few other subreddits to help you or inspire you to fix your stuff:
Some tips I learned the hard way:
This one on Amazon seems to have pretty good reviews. I'd recommend getting a stand like this to go with it for safety reasons. (I decided to solder without mine a few weeks ago, and wouldn't you know it, the one time I decide I don't need the stand, I burn myself!)
You can easily spend a lot more on irons, and if you start doing a lot more soldering you may want to make a bigger investment. A lot of people really like the Hakko FX888D, but I personally prefer the Weller WTCPT-60 because I don't like fussing with knobs. (Despite not having a knob, the Weller actually does have very precise temperature control, but depending on what temperature you want you have to buy different tips, which isn't worth the hassle for most people. I use only one kind of solder so it doesn't matter for me, but I digress.)
I've never found any tutorials I really like, and my advice is to just get busy! You'll make a lot of mistakes and do a lot of projects slowly before you get good, and I don't think there's a tutorial out there that will let you skip that. To help you stay pointed in the right direction, here are a few things I look for in a good solder joint:
There are a few intuition issues you should be aware of that I've observed while teaching students to solder. For instance, most of the stuff you'll be soldering is so small that it will be "cold" (as in "too cold to melt solder") the instant you pull the iron away, and cool enough to touch within seconds. Try it if you don't believe me. The part will only stay hot as long as the iron is touching it. You'd be surprised how many people can't get their head around this.
Also, oxygen is your enemy. The longer the part is hot, the more oxidized the surface will become and the harder it will be for solder to stick. This is true even when the joint is hot, but not hot enough to melt solder! So once the iron contacts the work, you have to be expedient. Most joints can be finished in 5 seconds or less, and if you're holding the iron on there for 10 seconds or more but the solder still isn't melting, stop and reexamine what you're doing. You may want to get some fine-grit sandpaper to clean the conductors off before you start again.
Keeping oxygen out of your solder joint is the job of flux, and like /u/avialex (edit: fixed) said it's very helpful (provided everything is relatively clean to begin with). But again it's a balancing act. If you use too much flux you'll make a mess, and raw flux is slightly corrosive and can be very difficult to clean off your work.
There are lots of other tricks you'll learn through practice too. I guess that's where tutorials might come in handy. You'll probably learn to splice wires (probably the most difficult thing to do with a soldering iron) much more quickly from someone with experience on Youtube than struggling through it 20,000 times yourself, doing it a harder way because you didn't know any better.
At the same time though, there's no substitute for practice. This went on a lot longer than I intended, but I think now you have plenty of information to keep in mind as you get started. Good luck and happy soldering!