Reddit reviews Epoxy Putty Tape, 36 Inches- Blue Yellow with Green Stuff
We found 18 Reddit comments about Epoxy Putty Tape, 36 Inches- Blue Yellow with Green Stuff. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
#1 preferred sculpting putty since the early '70s.Sculpt models and prototypes.Mixes in minutes.Long work life.Paintable No shrinkage; solvent and VOC-free.
Don't buy greenstuff from GW. It's literally this.
The tool you're looking for is called a razor saw. Good luck with the mod!
Edit: Keep in mind that it is not solid plastic, and you will have holes where you make your cut. You could use plasticard and green stuff to cover that up though.
Green Stuff - I'm still going through this 36" roll of Kneadite. $5 more than Games Workshop's product, but 5x more putty.
Primer - Rust-Oleum Sandable Primer is my gold standard. I've used it in all seasons in Mid-West USA with no issues, and it always dries with a perfect finish.
Black wash - Nuln Oil is still my liquid talent, but for large projects I use Vallejo Black Wash. Almost twice the price of a pot of Nuln Oil, but over 8x the amount of wash. Economical for terrain pieces and large models, but not quite the same quality.
Paint - I've been hooked on Citadel paints since 3rd Edition, but I'm slowly transitioning to Vallejo and Army Painter. The latter has color-matched primer and acrylic paints, which has really saved my sanity on the large projects I typically work on.
You could always try to add your own flames with green stuff.
Citadel green stuff is overpriced. Next time get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MQ7EHHC/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Same stuff, just different packaging and several times better value.
anazon link
I've tried some variations myself, and usually I simply revert to printing upright. The biggest issue I have with this is snapping off a piece while removing supports.
Splitting a figure in half does produce nice-looking results, but they never seem to fit back together nicely once printed. It took a while to find a good glue (I'm mostly using gorilla glue now), and I would have had to use green stuff to seal the gaps. All-in-all a lot of work, and it just seemed easier to bring the STL into MeshMixer and inflate it a little to make it a stronger print so that removing supports wouldn't break it as easily.
I'm very curious about printing miniatures on their back, though... that might work great. Will have to try.
https://www.amazon.com/Kneadatite-Yellow-Epoxy-Putty-Green/dp/B00MQ7EHHC/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=green+stuff&qid=1554301765&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Green stuff is a great option that has been around for a while and used by wargamers on 28mm miniatures. It's a two-part modeling epoxy putty that can be molded and put into place, then sanded down. This is for small areas and gaps in segments.
I coat all my props in XTC-3d resin, then sand the crap out of it in order to get a smooth finish.
The one I bought has the blue and yellow separated, but it's not unlikely that it's from the same origin point. I don't buy in bulk because I really don't use a whole lot of it and I have limited hobby storage space in my apartment.
FYI, my related links on that Amazon page had this one listed which is from a good quality brand, and it's a significantly better price by weight. Generally, if an epoxy putty isn't branded by a games company, the price is more reasonable.
If you just want to have tentacles, well, those are pretty easy to mold from green stuff. Stick 'em on any barbarian-lookin' mini you like the best.
Thanks.
Green Stuff on Amazon
The thing that irritated me about Amazon (in general - I know it's not really anyone's fault) is that depending on the 3rd party seller, packaging, and intended customer base, the price varied dramatically. The stuff that was clearly listed for hobbyist to use for minis, etc, was $1-$2/inch. After looking around for a bit, I found a 36" roll for about $16.
Go out and get some Kneadatite aka “green stuff”. It comes as a blue and yellow strip that you mix together and it becomes green. You then model it into the hole and let it harden before painting it.
It’s wonderful for conversions and is a staple in Warhammer modeling.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MQ7EHHC/ref=sxts_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520099987&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65
https://www.amazon.com/Kneadatite-Yellow-Epoxy-Putty-Green/dp/B00MQ7EHHC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1537629900&sr=8-1&keywords=kneadatite
Sure thing. This is the pin vise I used, including the 3mm bit. The 5mm bit I used is just a regular titanium drill bit, turned by hand, and you can get that on Amazon or at any hardware store. You'll need superglue to affix the magnets (any will work), and Kneadatite/green stuff to fill gaps. Other than that you just need the magnets themselves- these are the 5mm ones I used, and these are the 3mm.
Green stuff is a two part epoxy that hardens when you mix the blue and yellow sides. Kneadatite Blue/Yellow Epoxy Putty Tape 36" "Green Stuff" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MQ7EHHC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_u20gDb2JMASBY
Those are kinda overkill for plamo; lots of tabletop gamers use this stuff, both for filling gaps and sculpting. Just cut a length, mash together until it turns green, and do your stuff. Has a decent work time, and smooths out nicely, so you have to file/sand less to finish.
I use This