Reddit Reddit reviews Ergon - GP1 Ergonomic Lock-on Bicycle Handlebar Grips | Regular Compatibility | for Hybrid and Mountain Bikes | Large | Black/Gray

We found 4 Reddit comments about Ergon - GP1 Ergonomic Lock-on Bicycle Handlebar Grips | Regular Compatibility | for Hybrid and Mountain Bikes | Large | Black/Gray. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

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Ergon - GP1 Ergonomic Lock-on Bicycle Handlebar Grips | Regular Compatibility | for Hybrid and Mountain Bikes | Large | Black/Gray
THE ORIGINAL: The GP Grip Series is the original ergonomic “winged grip” design that started a comfort revolution for cyclists using flat style handlebars.TOTAL COMFORT: GP Series grips eliminate hand pain, numb fingers, sore wrists and forearms. Unique grip shape reduces pressure, relieving the ulnar nerve while supporting the hand and wrist in an ergonomically ideal position.CUSTOM FIT: A forged aluminum clamp allows the grip angle to be adjusted for a custom fit. Can easily be readjusted as needed. Clamp eliminates twisting once tightened. (Carbon bar compatible).PURE MATERIALS: GP grips are made from 100% German, TÜV-certified rubber compounds for improved flexibility and durability / GP BioKork grips are made from 40% cork sourced from sustainable forests in Portugal.WARRANTY: Limited 2-Year warranty against defects in materials and workmanship
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4 Reddit comments about Ergon - GP1 Ergonomic Lock-on Bicycle Handlebar Grips | Regular Compatibility | for Hybrid and Mountain Bikes | Large | Black/Gray:

u/meeerod · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Buy some grips from Ergon. I had the same issue on my right hand where it would affect my pinkie and ring fingers on my right hand, it would last a few days. I’m yet to have the issue since buying and using the grips.

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/bicycletouring

Nope....Jones bars are ten times better! Bought both at same time and the Jones Bars ultimately win for all kinds of reasons.

  1. Trekking bars still bring hand/wrist numbness, and don't give you the true amount of positions Jones bars does with the sweep. If you like an even "more" upright position, then the Trekking bars don't truly do it like Jones and there really is no comparison unless you have tried both for yourself. I have extensively. ALWAYS have numbness with Trekking bars, once you get the Jones bars truly dialed in, I don't anymore. There is also a Jones Loop Bar that has an additional 2.5" rise if you want even more of an upright rise which I do. https://www.jonesbikes.com/jones-sg-2-5-aluminum-loop-h-bar/ I started withe Jones Bars, bought Trekking bar to try in comparison, used it for a little while, there are "some" things nicer about it, but overall, no way IMO. Trekking bar has been hanging on the wall since untouched. Probably should just sell it but it's nice having options laying around if you want to try different things I guess.
  2. Trekking bars you can't hang last minute grocery bags off the ends of the bars where they are out of the way, Jones bars with the sweep you can practically hang half a grocery cart in bags off them if you want. If you use the bike for your utility/commuter you will love it from this perspective! Trekking bars has zero real estate to hang extra bags off from this capacity. If you have an Apocalypse bike or your "one and only" kind of bike person, then you will LOVE the Jones bars for all the added stuff and stability it gives you. It's funny because for this reason alone, I have never put the Trekking bars back on my bike.
  3. Serendipity that I didn't expect was the added stability and how much more confident and comfortable you feel on them in all capacities, especially if you go off road from time to time and go downhill.
  4. The only thing that they lack IMO is the additional stability if you want to "get down" on the bars in a crouched position with your hands forward like when you are on aero bars. The stability can get a little spooky and getting use to at high speeds and not for the tame. But I have found it is actually easier to utilize the entire triangle and sweep with your arms in a "triangle" position with your hands holding the most forward bars in the middle. I know Jeff sells an extension bar: https://www.jonesbikes.com/jones-gnarwal/ that you can add to it to get down on the bars better, but I can't speak for them having no experience around that component, but my "gut" says that it will still be kind of spooky at high speeds if you had to transition from that extension bar to the brakes suddenly at a high rate of speed.

    I personally would like to figure out a way to add aero bars in combination with the Jones bars and see how that would be on touring before I would add that extension bar, but that is me personally, and I am only talking from assumptions and own personal wants is all now.

  1. The other great thing about Jones bars is get them, try them out, if you don't ultimately like them, they hold their resale value...in fact, it's difficult to even find them used at the time of my looking anywhere on Ebay, Craigslist nationwide, etc... so if you find out you truly hate them (which I don't think you will), you can simply resell them at close to cost probably.

    I personally wouldn't buy a Jones bars used because I would worry about the validity of the weld seams and possible accident crash, but that is not trusting humans more than the actual product. If I knew they were just descent used bars in no crashes, I would snatch them up if they were ascetically descent. They just don't seem to lose value and I would also guess that the other humans trust humans more than I do so I think throwing them on Ebay they would be snatched up. Even if I decided I didn't ultimately want them on my bike long term, I would still want them hanging on wall or sitting on a shelf somewhere to throw them on from time to time because shredding back country can be fun on them. I just love them for the extra stability. Even for stupid stuff like when you get to an area that is "too technical" for you, which happens to me often taking a hybrid bike off road a lot, it's like having a "walker" on extra stability moving through all that stuff. Like a "walker" old folks use LOL. That might sound silly, but if you are older and a bit more fragile, it's pretty nice using your brakes and your bike with extra wide stability when you have to push and pull manually through that stuff, and getting through some pretty gnarly stuff. Now of course if you have a rad bike that isn't a problem, and if you have a rad bike with Jones bars you are flying over that stuff...but if you have the "one bike" that does everything like me, then it's just an added serendipity bonus of having the bike even more stable when I have to do some serious push/pull kind of stuff from time to time.

    Jones Bars are so good IMO that I am actually building a bicycle around the bars themselves and would even look at his Bicycles now as well. He makes a great product in my opinion.

    Also, folks will recommend the Surly Moloko bars but they are a quite different feeling from Jones Bars and actually sit a little bit more forward, and the two front extensions on those bars don't really satisfy "getting down on the bars" long term from the tiny sample I had on them. They are good for crouching down into a head wind but you feel way more forward and not in a natural position I would want to be for many miles. You can use this: http://whatbars.com/ to put the bars on top of one another and see what I mean about how the geometry is different and the Moloko bars are more forward than I personally care for.

    The last thing I will say is the actual "setup" on the grips themselves...

    Jeff Jones sells: https://www.jonesbikes.com/jones-eva-h-grips/ which I originally liked. They were simple and nice and thick originally, they break down over time on thickness. The nice thing about these is that the grips put the brake levers all the way up by the welds as far up on the bar as you can go. I personally think this is the best place for the brake levers to go, and where your hands will sit the most, almost like as if you are on your hoods all the time.

    I have seen people use Ergon grips: https://www.amazon.com/Ergon-42410005-GP1-Grips-Large/dp/B00P49WLYK/ref=sr_1_2/133-5316717-0295105?ie=UTF8&qid=1550638621&sr=8-2&keywords=Ergon+grips like these, and they end up putting the break levers further down just outside the end of these grips. There is a big difference between where "these" grips would end on the bars versus where the grips I mentioned above would end. When people mount these types of grips with the break lever lower, IMO, they are doing themselves a big injustice and taking away from their hand positions, and force your hands to sit more down in the sweep than may need be at times.

    I found the perfect solution! Cut the Jones grips down (or a similar product) almost in half, and add them "plus" the Ergon grips on together. So you a "partial" Jones grip up high towards the weld and brake lever, and then have the bottom part of the handle the Ergon grip. Then you still have multiple hand positions, the comfort and beauty of the Ergon grips, and can still sit up by the welds like "as if" you are on your hoods and get to the break levers quicker because they are right by your fingers rather than all the way back down the bar by the end of the Ergon grips. You also now get your Jones grips to last twice as long because you only need "one" of them at a time because you are cutting them in half and more shelf life that way out of a pair too.

    The added benefit of setting up your bars this way and adding Ergon grips just takes the bars to another level for touring IMO. I have put on a LOT of miles on this setup and I will probably "always" setup any MTB, trekking, or touring bike with Jones bars with an MTB setup.

    Then the added benefit of it is that you can utilize MTB groupsets which opens your touring bike up to more options IMO.

    The "only" real downside that you can say about the bars is the "wideness" of them, especially if you hang a mirror off the ends of the bars. It will feel like a motorcycle wide kind of thing. Moving through doorways, down hallways, etc... I have to turn the mirror in and even without it, you are extremely wide. If you are trying to get down a narrow sidewalk with someone else wide passing, one of you is stopping for a moment. There are plenty of times I have had to stop the bike and pull over to let someone get through. On roads without shoulders, you will feel scary wide at times. However, I have learned to utilize this towards my advantage. Sometimes making yourself bigger is a good thing and with a mirror hung off it, it forces cars to go even a "little" wider than normal which creates an even safer buffer zone serendipity. I also honestly think just because of how wide you are, in those "close" spots where a car "might" still attempt to squeeze through not caring about your comfort or safety, it makes them second guess and actually sit and wait behind you "if" it is truly that tight and they shouldn't go around you anyway with a little love and patience. However, when you do get that one person who thinks its more important to watch the yellow line on their left rather than your safety and they do come extremely close, it can be unsettling how wide you are. I feel ten times more stable on Jones bars than I do normal bars anyway!

    ​
u/SteenerNeener · 1 pointr/bicycling

First and foremost, the most important thing for comfort is a bike that fits you properly and is adjusted to you. If it's not a shop that does fittings, then you might want to consider a different shop. I love my first LBS, the people there are awesome, but I would've been saved a world of issues if I had been properly fit on my hybrid the day I bought it.

Padded shorts help but they're not really a requirement until you're spending a lot of time in the saddle.

Now, I'm not saying go out and buy all this stuff. You might need none of it to start with, but all the stuff I've bought....

The cheapest pair of shorts found with good padding start at $50, and they're Bontrager (Trek's house brand) ones I bought from one of my local bike shops.

I've had my eye on these for some time as a second pair, to see if the chamois is as good or better. Still $50.

Super soft squishy gel saddles are crap. Do not buy them.

Stock saddles almost always suck, ask your LBS for recommendations. If they're a Trek dealer, and it's a Bontrager brand saddle, you can always return it within 30 days and try another.

No matter what grips come on your bike, these are probably world's better. These were literally the first thing I ordered for my wife's Trek 6.2 when she complained her hands were hurting.

These are twice as expensive but the bar ends are really nice for longer rides, to give you more hand positions to work with. It's the same base grip, just with added bar ends. I've had them on my hybrid for some time now.

I still rock this saddle on my hybrid. It's comfortable now for short-ish rides w/o shorts, and I can do about 30 miles on it without trouble.

This is the saddle on my cross bike that I put a hundred miles a week on. It's a bit squishy, but firm.

I wear these gloves when I ride as well, but that's more because I have issues with carpal tunnel and this keeps the pressure off.

As far as tops go, I just started wearing jerseys (I'm still 25ish lbs overweight), this is the one I went with. I'm not saying go for one right away, they're fairly tight and I'm still kind of uncomfortable in it along w/ bike shorts, but I've always been one of those "uncomfortable in his body" fat guys, who wore over-sized clothes in a poor attempt to hide it.

I rode in stuff from Old Navy until recently. Over my bike shorts, I wore some knee-length running shorts, and for a top I just used one of their $10 Go-Dri t-shirts, to wick sweat.

Cotton sucks. You'll be way more comfortable in a shirt that's designed to keep you cool and dry.

Oh, and one last thing, if you get bike shorts, you don't wear underwear. They are your underwear.


I've spent a lot of money on cycling over the months, but it's my primary hobby now, so I don't mind.