Reddit Reddit reviews F/C PID Temperature Controller, AGPtEK Dual Display Digital Programmable Temperature Control TA4-SSR Solid State Relay with 2 Alarms

We found 5 Reddit comments about F/C PID Temperature Controller, AGPtEK Dual Display Digital Programmable Temperature Control TA4-SSR Solid State Relay with 2 Alarms. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Industrial & Scientific
Test, Measure & Inspect
Temperature Controllers
Temperature & Humidity Measurement
F/C PID Temperature Controller, AGPtEK Dual Display Digital Programmable Temperature Control TA4-SSR Solid State Relay with 2 Alarms
♦ Dual Display: This PID temperature controller has dual display for Fahrenheit (F) and Celsius(C). The AGPtEK temperature controller supports reading with Centigrade or Fahrenheit unit.♦ PID Control: Individually programmable PID control parameters, P, I, d, controlling period, digital filter coefficient, and more… (for control theory experts only)♦ Dual Output: 7 different Dual Output combinations with 1 relayed output and 1 SSR control voltage output.♦ Easy Operation: Only one key operation needed for this digital temperature controller, Auto-tuning PID/ Fuzzy PID control. It is simple to operate with reliable performance.♦ Wide Application: This pid controller ssr is widely used in auto system in line of light industry, chemistry, machine, metallurgy, ceramics, pertrification industry, or temperature control and adjust system of food & beverage; oven; furnance, plastic extruder heating process etc.
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5 Reddit comments about F/C PID Temperature Controller, AGPtEK Dual Display Digital Programmable Temperature Control TA4-SSR Solid State Relay with 2 Alarms:

u/brad1775 · 2 pointsr/enail

all machines are made of components manufactured in asia. The issue is in the assembler, and their quality control testing. This one is assembled in china. The problem I see is that while an american company can quality control their goods by plugging it into the wall and letting it run for an amount of time, china tipcally has 220v 50 hz electricity (ours is 110 v 60 hz). So there is going to be a problem with testing the units designed for the american market. (not a big problem, the PID shodul be fine on either electricity, but you never know....)

In my experience with Chinese made components from bulk suppliers, there is a 10% failure rate within the first day of use (considered DOA). There are only really 3 things that can go wrong inside due to their complex nature, a PID, the coil assembly, and the relay device (much less likely, but I've had it happen in other fields). With a 10% chance of each failing, it's a 74% chance your unit will be fine (my math might be off, help here if you know satistics better than I do). If your unit is NOT fine, you can easily order replacement parts on amazon.com

Save the money, and use the cheap stuff, be prepared to repair it with spare parts by having these links ready to go

For the PID: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NGL4KG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1BREQ8I6OHSBG

For the SSR:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HZN628/ref=ox_sc_sfl_image_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3NSJ1JIMWS963.

for the coil.... thats still goign to be a problem, as they are all made in china, but, I think enhale.com might be a good course for coils.

u/Uberg33k · 2 pointsr/Homebrewing
  1. That element will not work. Anything that comes in direct contact with wort needs to be incoloy or else you will burn your wort.
  2. I would hope you wouldn't waste money buying a keg and converting it when you could buy a SS pot and convert that for equal or lesser money.

    As for the cost estimate, I think you may be a bit off. I'm not sure what P&H is short for, but you will need more than just an element plugged into a socket. First thing's first: you will use a GFCI. Making beer is great, but it's not worth it if you electrocute yourself. If you don't have a GFCI outlet, you'll need to install one or work around it by getting a spa panel. Second, you're going to need some kind of controller. You're not going to flip on the element and measure temps until you hit your strike/boil. Every successful e-kettle uses some kind of controller to rapidly flip the element on and off. This avoids scorching. You'll need a PID temp controller like this http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Display-Temperature-Controller-Alarms/dp/B005NGL4KG/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1375460323&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=auber+pid+2352 . Most people use the Auber 2352, but their website seems to be down right now. You might also want to peruse Kal's site http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/ and think about how you can scale it down to a 1 pot operation. If you can wait a few months, I'll be done with my BIAB e-kettle and I plan on posting a walk through of the build here.
u/stupac2 · 0 pointsr/beerporn

I don't think it matters to much if they reorient, the yeast will settle with time. I suppose it could matter a bit if you opened it pretty quickly, but so would transporting it.

I haven't heard of a CoolBot before, but looking it up it sounds like it's just a PID. If you're handy with electronics at all you can do this yourself for a lot less, I use this PID and this relay, after that you just need a thermocouple. It's about 10x cheaper and probably not all that less usable. Just an option.

And the project sounds cool, how much are you storing? 35 cases is probably more than I have total, and you might need 3? That's one hell of a cellar.