Reddit reviews Frankford Arsenal Quick-N-EZ 110V Case Tumbler Kit for Cleaning and Polishing for Reloading
We found 9 Reddit comments about Frankford Arsenal Quick-N-EZ 110V Case Tumbler Kit for Cleaning and Polishing for Reloading. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
SPECS: This tumbler holds up to 600 9mm or 350 .223 casesEASE OF USE: Cord operated with an ON/OFF switch located on the cordCONVENIENT: Remove fouling easy by pairing this tumbler with Frankford Arsenal Walnut Hull or Corn Cob MediaINCLUDES: Quick-N-EZ Case Tumbler, Quick-N-EZ Rotary Media Separator, 4 oz. Brass Polish, 3 lb. Cleaning Media and a Plastic Bucket
Case Cleaning
Case cleaning isn’t strictly necessary as long as the case isn’t filled with dirt or something. A tarnished case will shoot just as well as a pretty shiny one. That said clean brass is easier on your dies, is easier to reload, doesn’t turn your fingers black, is healthier(fired cases have lead dust and other nasties on it) and in general is far more impressive when you show it off to people.
There are several types of case cleaning systems. I’m going to go over the basics of each and provide one link to that genre.
>Chemical:
Chemical brass cleaning is usually a solution of detergent, acid, and warm water. Usually vinegar and some variation of dish soap. This will clean off your cases fairly quickly and without a whole lot of work. It might turn your brass a funny color though and if your soap has ammonia in it may weaken the cases in an unsafe way. This is the cheapest method of cleaning brass.
>Vibratory Tumbling:
A vibrating tumbler is filled with corn cob/crush walnut media and your brass. When turned on the whole thing vibrates(gasp!) and after a few hours your brass is shiny. This is probably the most common way to clean brass. The downsides are that the insides of the cases don’t get cleaned and if you deprived before tumbling sometimes the media gets stuck in the flash hole. It also produces a lot of dust, both from the media and the lead residue in the rounds. Because of this it is not recommended to do anywhere that small children will commonly be or where food is prepared. It is also fairly loud, apartment dwellers will not want to go this route.
Frankford Arsenal Vibratory Tumbler $40.93
>Sonic Cleaning:
Sonic cleaning is one of the fastest ways to clean your brass. You add your solution, let it heat and shake out any bubbles then dip your brass down into it. Sonic cleaning does a better job than vibratory cleaning, but it doesn’t remove tarnish beyond what the cleaning solution will do chemically. Since all the cleaning happens in solution there is no dust to worry about.
Lyman Turbo Case Cleaner 106.31
>Wet Tumbling:
Wet tumbling uses a rotating drum full of water, soap, and stainless steel pins to clean your brass. Wet tumbling will take even the dingiest of brass and make it look like factory new. It cleans the inside and outside of cases and if the cases are deprimed first it will clean the primer pockets as well. Again there is no dust because of the water.
Thumler Model B 189.95 You’ll also need 5lb of stainless steel pins which will run you about $40.
Storage
When you reload you’re going to need a bunch of containers to hold your stuff. This can be old shoeboxes, coffee cans, tupperware, etc. But you’re going to need it. You’ll also need a way to easily get to your components from your storage. For something like tupperware you have a nice big shallow container it is easy to grab from. If you’re using a taller container or one with a narrow mouth(coffee can for instance) it is harder to reach into.
For storage I use Akro bins to hold components I’m using. They stack nicely, hold a lot of weight without flexing, hang off my press, and are easy to get things out of.
Priming systems
Some people like to prime their cases in their press. Some people like to do it separately with a hand tool. Hand tools are nice because they are portable and since priming is relatively low risk many people do it while watching TV and then double-check everything afterwards. This is one of the “nice to have” things depending on your preference. It is generally not required to reload.
RCBS Hand Prime $41.99
Lee AutoPrime $19.99
Many hand priming tools will also require a set of shell holders mean specifically for priming tools.
Lee Priming Tool Shell Holder Set $16.99
Primer Flip Trays
When using primers in a press you’ll need them all to be facing the same way. This is a very tedious process to do by hand. Primer flip trays use a series of small grooves to flip the primers all upright in just a few light shakes.
RCBS Primer Flip Tray $9.95 These can be found for much cheaper.
Case Lube
If you are reloading rifle cases or using steel dies you’ll need case lube or it’ll get jammed in your press. You can get spray on lube, roll on lube, and lube you just put on using your fingers. It all depends on what works best for your workflow. Roll on lube is put onto a pad or sponge and the case is rolled across it before being put into the press.
Imperial Sizing Wax $8.39
Lee Case Lube $4.19
Lyman Spray Lube $7.99
You can also make your own for ~$7 per 32oz. Make your own lube
Dies
Dies are one of the most important parts of your reloading set up, they physically manipulate your brass and bullet back into firing condition. In general you’ll need a set of dies for each caliber you reload. Some calibers like 44spl/44mag or 38spl/357mag can share the same die set, but you should confirm that the die is meant for that. Most dies on the market have a 7/8"-14 thread. This means most presses will accept most dies, though some presses take their own unique type so make sure you double check before purchasing a press/dies.
Dies can range from a $30 Lee set to a $500 set of custom precision dies for long range rifle shooting. Because of this I’m going to describe what the different types of dies do for you, this should allow you to make a more informed decision about what sets to buy.
>Decapping Die:
These usually come in two flavors; Universal and combined Sizing/Decapping die. The universal decapping die is just a large cavity with a decapping pin in the middle. It doesn’t touch the sides of the case at all, it just punches out the used primer. This is useful if you want to deprime your brass before cleaning. Clean brass is easier on your dies as there won’t be any dirt/sand to scratch them. A Sizing/Decapping die will not only remove the spent primer, but squeeze the round back to factory dimensions to help with feeding. If you are using a straight walled case, like most pistol cartridges, you don’t need to use lubrication if you buy carbide dies. If you are using steel dies or resizing a case with a shoulder(most rifle cartridges), you’ll need case lube for this die.
>Full Length Resizing Die:
This die resizes the entire length of the brass, from the case mouth all the way down to the extractor groove. They will also round out slightly damaged case mouths. These dies often contain a decapping pin and are sometimes referred to as Full Length Sizing/Decapping dies.
>Neck Size Only Die:
When a bullet is fired the case expands to exactly match the size of the chamber it is in. Using a full length sizing die squeezes the entire case back to factory dimensions. While this is a good thing for rounds used in a semi-auto firearm that needs that extra slop to function, for a precision rifle full length sizing is unnecessary. In fact all that extra sizing shortens the life of the case. Enter the Neck Size Only Die. This die sizes just enough of the case to allow for proper tension on the bullet and extends case life. Most precision shooters use these.
>Expanding Die:
For straight walled pistol cases you must bell the case mouth enough for a bullet to be properly seated.
>Powder Through Expanding Die:
Sometimes called a PTX Die also bells the case mouth, but is hollow in the center allowing you to pour powder into the case. These are especially useful when combined with a press mounted powder thrower.
What kind of ammo are you looking to reload? Straight-wall ammo, like most pistol calibers, is slightly easier to reload.
You can get into reloading for about $300-$500.
Here is what you will need:
Before you get started, I highly recommend you read the book, "The ABC's of Reloading":
http://www.amazon.com/The-ABCs-Of-Reloading-Definitive/dp/0896896099/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1381839707&sr=8-2&keywords=abc%27s+of+reloading
You can check it out at a library if you want to save money. This book covers all kinds of reloading from pistol to rifle to shotgun cartridges.
If you are going to reload any kind of necked cartridge, like most rifle cartridges and some pistol cartridges, these cases stretch in length when firing due to the force being applied to the neck along the axis of the cartridge. As such they have to be trimmed back to proper length prior to reloading. This requires a case trimmer. You will generally not need a case trimmer for straight-walled cartridges.
Reloading basically follows these steps:
There is a lot of debate as to whether single-stage, multi-stage, or progressive presses are best for new people.
A single-stage press has, as you would expect, a single stage. You have to swap out your dies as you move from each operation of reloading. The advantage here is cost and the fact that you can focus exclusively on each step of the process. Disadvantage is speed.
A multi-stage press has, as you would expect, multiple stages. This press holds all of your dies in one die plate, but you must manually change over from one die to the next. You still focus on each step of the process. Speed is a little faster as you do not have to re-set your dies every time you want to switch to a different die in the process.
A progressive press holds all your dies but automatically moves the cartridge from one station to the next with each stroke of the handle. The progressive press' advantage is speed. The disadvantage is that the user must keep an eye on multiple things happening simultaneously, most importantly the powder charging step.
I started off with a Lee Pro 1000, and it is still all I use. It is a bit twitchy in that you have to keep thumping the primer container to make sure the primer feed ramp stays full of primers or else it will start to mis-feed them. Also when the brass feed tubes start to run dry cartridges have a tendency to bounce off of the deck and scoot forward a bit getting caught under the die plate on the up-stroke, jamming the press. You have to push them back out of the way.
You will probably want to clean your brass before reloading it. It is not absolutely essential that you do so, but it requires a lot more force to ram dirty brass through your dies than clean brass. Also dirty brass can scratch up your dies, which then in turn pass those scratches on to your ammo. To clean your brass, you will want a tumbler and seperator.
If you are not using carbide dies you will need case lubricant and you will have to lubricate your brass before you run it through your dies. If you do not do this you will get brass stuck in your dies and you may have to send it to the factory to have it removed.
Note that I used Amazon links for the above but obviously shop around. Also I referenced mostly Lee items but likewise shop around. Lee is usually the cheapest but can be "twitchy" compared to more expensive models.
Do not randomly buy reloading components (powder, bullets, primer) and then try and find a recipe. It's much easier to find out what kind of powder is available to you locally and then find a recipe that uses that powder and buy bullets to match it. If you randomly buy whatever powder and bullets you can find you may have difficulty finding an existing recipe for that combination and will have to find something "close", which as a newbie I don't recommend. It's much easier to work with a known recipe for a specific powder and bullet and primer.
Always start with the lowest recommended charge and work up from there if you find it necessary. If you are building precision ammunition for optimal accuracy you will "work up a load" to find exactly how much powder for any given bullet gives the best accuracy for any given firearm. If you are just building plinking ammunition then use the lowest listed charge that reliably cycles the action of your firearm.
The most critical part of reloading is the powder charging step. If you build ammunition with too much powder in it it can explode and destroy the firearm and injure or even kill you. If you put too little or no powder in it you can make a "squib" where the primer will push the bullet out of the cartridge into the barrel, creating an obstruction, and if you fire the gun again it can explode, again with the risk of destroying the gun and injuring the shooter. It is important to eyeball every cartridge to make sure it is charged properly. And do spot-checks every 10th round or so with your scale to confirm the load.
I recently invested in a Frankfort arsenal tumbler, but before that I used an old rock polisher to wet tumble. You can also use an old jug or 5 gallon bucket with a good seal to do the same thing. They all come out about the same, but I was tired of waiting for brass to dry since I am very impatient person lol. If you’re going to wet tumble I used a small splash of dawn dish soap and a 9mm case of lemi shine. If I used the rock tumbler I would let it go for about an hour, switch the water, and then do another hour. If I was doing it by hand with a 5gal bucket or an old jug I would I would do it on and off while watching tv and would switch the water once or twice once I could see it was really dirty. You can kinda tell when the brass is clean enough for your liking. Since I don’t pay for electricity, I would put a large box fan in front of it to help the drying process.
> https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Breech-Lock-Challenger/dp/B003ISVWC6
yes. i also got mine from amazon.
the parts that need improvement are discussed in the customer reviews near the bottom of the page. powder dispenser and scale are the items i remember getting lukewarm reviews. those parts are cheap to upgrade. so no worry.
you need dies for the caliber that you are reloading.
for some reason i have 2 sets of .223 dies. i know i purchased one, i'm not sure if the other came with the kit.
i purchased a 2" bench top cut off saw [$32]
a jig to cut my cases [$13] 300blk
a case length guage [$10] 300blk
ammo loading tray [$7]
dies [$39] for each caliber
digital caliper [$16]
frankford scale [$32]
frankford bullet puller [$16]
tumber kit [$75]
i spent a good month or so on /r/reloading before i actually purchased anything.
i asked questions and made a shopping list.
those guys are very helpful
research what you actually need for the caliber / bullet grain you want to reload before you buy anything.
double and triple check what powder you need as well. it could save your life.
i kinda over did it with supplies
haven't opened half the boxes yet.
first of all
Secondly, I assume you mean this one, the lee cast iron turret is a great press and it will work for most applications, If you need to do things not involving the turret (like decapping of w/e) you can just pull the index rod out(it just pops out when you take the dies out) and it won't spin anymore.
For tumbler I can say wet tumbling is best but not feasable for everyone and walnut tumbling works fine. The frankfort arsenal kit is good choice.
Lee dies and hand trimmers are cheap and work good too. I wouldn't worry about a trimmer for 40 or 9 but get one for sure for 223 and 30-06. cutter + Insert
there's some more basics like decent case lube and components themselves but it's a step in the right direction.
EDIT
***
additional recommended things would be a kinetic bullet puller, digital scale, and calipers.
This. Toss them in with the media and let them go overnight
http://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-Master-Tumbler-Kit/dp/B000TTILBC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1331075482&sr=8-2
The primer pockets are definitely cleaner. I will load almost all of them without using a primer pocket cleaner because they are plenty clean. It's not as loud as I was expecting but it's definitely not quiet. I would still run it in an apartment I just wouldn't put in right up to a wall.
http://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-Master-Tumbler-Kit/dp/B000TTILBC/ref=pd_sim_misc_2
That's what I bought.
Most vibratory tumblers aren't so loud you'll have problems with them in an apartment. You probably won't want it sitting in the room with you while it's running, but it's not so bad that it'll likely cause complaints from your neighbors.
Here's a pretty good kit that includes a tumbler and media separator for $66 or just the tumbler for $45
https://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-645880-Quick-n-EZ-Tumbler/dp/B000TTILBC