Reddit reviews FYSETC 3D Printer Motherboard Accessories 0.31 in OD 0.78 in Length Compression Springs Light Load for Creality CR-10 10S S4 Ender 3 Heatbed Springs Bottom Connect Leveling - 10 Pack

Great printer, the Ender 3 is very popular right now because it is fully open source. Which means if you have any questions, then there is lots of community support for it right now.

Out of the box everything is great, the only thing I would suggest is to spend a few bucks and upgrade the bed springs right off the bat. I've had mine a few months. Once I got my bed level it has been running great.

Also buy a few roles of PLA filament, because it only comes with enough to get a few test prints. Oh, and replacement nozzles, because they will eventually wear down and need replaced.

> Mostly, it’s keeping the bed leveled that’s the hard part

I got you fam https://www.amazon.com/FYSETC-Motherboard-Accessories-Compression-Creality/dp/B07GXC1G2B/

Again, I am a super novice...

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I switched out to a glass bed simply because my stock bed was warped. The tip could touch on the corners and a sheet of paper would slide right through in the center. Once you get the bed level though, I don't think your adhesion problem will be as much of an issue. The magnetic bed it actually pretty nice. I actually ended up turning my bed down a little, to like 55. I was at 60, and it was working, but I was having adhesion problems as well and figured it might be a combination of speed and filament being too hot to stick with a temp that high. I also run my PLA at 210.

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These springs made leveling the bed much easier. Springs

This was the bed I went with. I like it a lot.

When setting your springs make sure you wind them all the way tight and then back off two turns.

Also upgrade to the yellow springs. https://www.amazon.com/FYSETC-Motherboard-Accessories-Compression-Creality/dp/B07GXC1G2B

I've been using these: https://smile.amazon.com/FYSETC-Motherboard-Accessories-Compression-Creality/dp/B07GXC1G2B

Even if your printer would have arrived with all 4 springs, one of the best, cheapest, and easiest upgrades for the Ender 3 is installing these Yellow springs

What you absolutely MUSTTTTTTT!!!! order? Nothing. The printer works as is. But if you want to do yourself a favour, here's a list of what I consider essentials:


- New springs, both bed and extruder. I don't have a link for an extruder one as I upgraded my entire extruder drive frame and that came with a better spring

- A new removable bed. Creality glass bed or glass with a PEI sheet is my bed of choice

- Thermal pad to avoid the annoying bed clamps. Cut squares out of it, lay them in a checkered pattern alternating between thermal pad and nothing and place your bed on top. They will hold the bed in place and help with heating

- Stepper dampers if your printer is anywhere near where you spend your time, it sounds like a bloody jackhammer right out of the box

- New tube fittings, the stock ones are terrible and will give out in a matter of weeks at best. They also barely hold onto the tube

There are a ton of other great upgrades, but I think a good idea is to get a feel for it yourself.

What you can do, however, is check out some printable upgrades. I have this thread where people contributed with their choice of printable upgrades. It's a great list you can refer to later. Essentials on that are the fan guard and LCD back cover simply because the Ender 3 as is has the fan and back of the LCD exposed and that makes it crazy vulnerable to dust and gook damage

I'd say the yellow bed springs are worthwhile. They're about $5 on Amazon, I bought these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GXC1G2B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They help keep the bed from going out-of-level as quickly, vs the stock springs. They're easy to install, and cheap, which is nice.

There are loads of other upgrades you can consider. A glass print bed surface, as one example, or a PEI print bed. Either can help provide a flatter print surface, vs the stock magnetic one (which will more-readily follow any distortions in the heated bed surface, making your print surface uneven).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GXC1G2B/. These are a game changer. They are so stiff and leveling the bed is so much more accurate.

These are the ones I bought.

I got my Ender 3 Pro about a month ago, performed some upgrades and ran into a few problems, but with some weird caveates.



I'm trying to print multiple miniatures on a single print, but seem to be getting a lot of oozing or stringing issues, but when I test with retraction tests, the test comes out perfect with identical settings. Additionally, when googling around, I couldn't find anything except for potentially a nozzle clog or potentially hydrated filament (possible, I'll test this later)

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I've tested a few other prints as well, a benchy and a testcube, they print fine. Really curious about what's going on. Do I need to spread the prints out more, use different settings, or is it more of a mechanical issue?

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I'd appreciate any help you guys have to recommend!

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So, lets get down to it:

Printer: Creality Ender 3 Pro

Surface: Creality Glass surface

Upgrades: Aluminum extruder upgrade

Capricorn Tubing

New bed springs



In addition to these, I've tightened the X and Y bolts on the runners to reduce wobble -- there's no more wobble, maybe they're too tight? I don't think so, I've had good prints with these settings, but not with a few things.



Settings:

Basically the same as the "normal" settings for the Ender 3 on Cura 4.0.0

But in addition: (And what I think may be important is bolded)

adhesion_type = raft

layer_height = 0.12

support_tree_enable = True

support_type = buildplate

brim_outside_only = False

fill_outline_gaps = True

infill_pattern = cubic

infill_sparse_density = 25

material_final_print_temperature = 180

material_initial_print_temperature = 180

material_print_temperature = 185

optimize_wall_printing_order = True

raft_margin = 10

retraction_amount = 7.5

retraction_speed = 20

speed_print = 30

support_angle = 40

support_conical_enabled = True

support_infill_rate = 50

support_interface_enable = True

support_pattern = lines

** NOTE ** Standard supports are turned off, I'm using the tree supports

support_tree_collision_resolution = 0.15

travel_avoid_supports = True

travel_compensate_overlapping_walls_enabled = False

wall_thickness = 1.2

The stock Ender 3 extruder is mostly plastic, and the spring in it is very weak. Often the extruder will crack or break, and the filament ends up digging a groove into the arm.

As for bed springs, something like this will do:
https://www.amazon.com/FYSETC-Motherboard-Accessories-Compression-Creality/dp/B07GXC1G2B/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=3d+printer+spring&qid=1554171742&s=gateway&sr=8-1

https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/20441-manage-profiles


Here's the springs:
https://www.amazon.com/FYSETC-Motherboard-Accessories-Compression-Creality/dp/B07GXC1G2B

FYSETC 3D Printer Motherboard Accessories 0.31 in OD 0.78 in Length Compression Springs Light Load for Creality CR-10 10S S4 Ender 3 Heatbed Springs Bottom Connect Leveling - 10 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GXC1G2B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_92l7CbYBEGJYC

I see these

https://www.creality3donline.com/creality-2pcs-cr-10-ender-extruder-spring_p0153.html

Or should I buy some yellow ones from amazon?

FYSETC 3D Printer Motherboard Accessories 0.31 in OD 0.78 in Length Compression Springs Light Load for Creality CR-10 10S S4 Ender 3 Heatbed Springs Bottom Connect Leveling - 10 Pack
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07GXC1G2B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9YFnDb0DV66V4

Ender 3 pro.

Creality magnetic build surface.

Black matchbox PLA at 200 C

Print bed at 60 C

Using the most recent version of Cura.

I'm using the "Normal" 0.15 mm layer height preloaded setting in Cura. I'm guessing that this is a bed leveling problem, as the only thing that changed between the first 2 pics is that I installed [new bed springs] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GXC1G2B?pf_rd_p=f3acc539-5d5f-49a3-89ea-768a917d5900&pf_rd_r=N121Q03JSDJ7ST88QJ8M). I did have a hell of a time getting them back to being level after the install, but I thought I had it.

Any thoughts?

Hey I also new on this, got my printer a month ago, I was super exited as everyone here when receive their printer, I read a LOT while waiting for the printer, so I heard that the stock bed springs are crappy, so I ordered this ones FYSETC Bed springs, also ordered the Aluminium Extruder feeder, and read about the leveling, the paper sheath method, which I think you should already heard about, I did it at the first time the printer gave me a nearly perfect first print (demo dog) , after a few prints and on my third print I came home just to find a mess on my printer, so I did my research again, find out it was bed adhesion, and find out that the best way was glass bed + PEI sheet was the best option, while waiting to arrive I tried to clean the stock bed sheet with mineral spirits (did have rubbing alcohol) but it worsened the adhesion, so I used one adhesion sticker that comes with the overture filament, and again flawless adhesion, at least for the first 4 prints, then again the frustration, I tried some glue stick and worked but it leaves a mess on your print so I decided to try painters tape directly onto the aluminum bed (which lucky for me it is perfectly flat) this is the best adhesion I have tried, problem is also makes a mess with the down face of the print, Finally mi Gass-PEI arrived, (3 days ago), it has a great adhesion but is not perfect, also you have to raise the Z limit switch to compensate the 5~ mm of Glass-PEI, find out that it isn't perfectly flat it has a good adhesion and leaves a very smooth down face, but at some section it does't sticks well and leaves artifacts on the down face, I'm currently working to fix this.

Sorry for the long post, need to talk about my frustration and let you know you are not alone on this, once you manage to make a good print is very satisfying, I have a PETG filament waiting to be used but I don't think is a great idea to try it until a learn more about 3D printing and the Ender.

List of mods on my Ender 3 Pro:

1. Glass bed
   
   
2. Capricorn PTFE tubing
   
   
3. Creality all metal extruder
   
   
4. Upgraded bed springs
   
   
5. Feet Noise Dampers
   
   
6. Filament Guide
   
   I use Cura for my slicer, and use the default setting there for the Ender 3.

All 3 as they are really cheap.

Bowden Tube

Aluminum Extruder

Bed springs

Stock springs are cheap and not well under tension. They caused me a lot of balance issues

https://www.amazon.com/FYSETC-Motherboard-Accessories-Compression-Creality/dp/B07GXC1G2B/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=3G99LZGFOMNBI&keywords=ender+3+bed+springs&qid=1556590607&s=gateway&sprefix=ender+3+bed+&sr=8-3

That's exactly what happens. I too would watch it and think its fine and then come back later and its floating. Go ahead and check the bed leveling as well. It may need to be adjusted anyway.


Side note: If you find yourself constantly adjusting the bed every few prints or so, change them out for some better ones. These are the springs everyone goes for.

I want to recommend this product at Amazon.com

FYSETC 3D Printer Motherboard Accessories 0.31 in OD 0.78 in Length Compression Springs Light Load for Creality CR-10 10S S4 Ender 3 Heatbed Springs Bottom Connect Leveling - 10 Pack
by Fuyuansheng
Learn more: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GXC1G2B/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_gPhXDbWZMATD3

Had these for a while and they’re great

FYSETC 3D Printer Motherboard Accessories 0.31 in OD 0.78 in Length Compression Springs Light Load for Creality CR-10 10S S4 Ender 3 Heatbed Springs Bottom Connect Leveling - 10 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GXC1G2B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_O-MLDbD1EA96T

It's hard to describe how tight it should be, but I believe I only loosened the arm about a quarter of a turn after screwing it in.

My apologies, I was a little unclear. The bearing should be able to move freely in the air when you push against the lever arm. When you push the lever arm in (like when you change filaments), you should be able to rotate the silver bearing in the air by hand without any trouble.

If you cannot spin the bearing, then it needs to be loosened a bit.

For your extruder spring, are you using a silver spring, similar to the stock bed/extruder springs, or a yellow spring that's commonly recommended as upgrades?

Replace the springs as well. They are questionably adequate for the stock bed, let alone one with a glass sheet attached.

These should work. or just search 3d printer bed springs on Amazon and pick one you like. They're super common, and basically all the same. Nothing too special.

Improvements/add-ons

• Filament Roller Guide. You will thank yourself later to further prevent the filament from grooving an indentation where it feeds into your extruder. It utilizes bearings but its a fantastic design. I had mine for ~2 months when I started noticing the groove already being made.

• XT60 Connector clips - if you want a little "cable management"

• LCD Cable Clips - Also if you want a little "cable management". There is also an LCD Cover for the PCB to keep dust and whatnot out.

• Any fan covers you find that suit your style as you dont want filament going into the box in the bottom left (not entirely too sure what it holds).

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Physical Upgrades

• Upgrade the bed springs as my originals started to sag a little. Not exactly sure on what the technical name for those springs are but those are the ones I purchased and I have been happy with them.

• Borosilicate glass bed. I use to use the stock mat, tape method, and hairspray method. All of those worked for a little bit but were a complete pain and mess to deal with from time to time. All I do now is use some isopropyl alcohol and clean my glass bed every once in a while but past that I require NO adhesion for my bed outside of tiny pieces that require a brim, skirt or whatever support needed to keep it adhered. As long as your print bed is leveled as best as possible (have a nice filament "squish") you will have no issues.

• Some other things you could look into if you plan to print with other kinds of filament outside of PLA would be: Micro Swiss steel nozzle, Capricorn tubing and an upgraded extruder like the e3d. Keep it simple for right now though while you learn your rigs because I strongly feel no ender 3 works the same and my preference for which program (MatterHacker, Slic3r or Cura) depends on how I feel how the model appears and how its coming out. Also, grab yourself a handful of replacement nozzles if you continue to use the brass ones. They CAN wear out if you use the printer like crazy, so its always good to have spares (also can get a variety of sizes too - standard being the 0.1mm I believe?). I snagged a pack of 10 for $5-8.

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Last but not least, run a few bed level test prints as well. The best one that I have found which helps me dial in my printing was CHEPs bed level STL file. Video & G-Code file. I use it religiously if I ever find that my bed is out of wack.



There are a handful of other mods/add-ons you can find on Thingiverse and another website (one which we arent allowed to link to unfortunately).

Here's the extruder: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B96QMN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uSFjDbRH4ZQE4

Here's the springs: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GXC1G2B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DTFjDb1KAPZ15

There's tons more. All you need to do is search Amazon. Glad I could help.