Reddit reviews Gaffer Power Premium Grade Gaffer Tape, Made in the USA, Heavy Duty gaff Tape, Non-Reflective, Multipurpose. 2 Inches x 30 Yards, Black

Tip: When that tape wears off, try using real Gaffer Tape. The tape you're using is closer to proper Duct tape, which may annoy you when it comes off (stick and stuff)

This is the tape that road crews use to tape cables to the ground (tile, carpet etc). It's slightly pliable and wont leave any residue when you remove it. It's actually amazing stuff, i use it for all sorts of things

Not sure what exactly Amanda’s tape looked like but.....This is the kind of tape that Kim Kardashian uses for her boobs.

Gaffer's Tape

Table top facade

I dunno, I look online at my local stores inventory and I see "black duct tape" and some that say "no residue" but I dont know if they are actual gaffers tape (which is more like a cloth and not shiny plastic) like I would use at a show.


Ill have to see in person next time I go, if so it would make things easier for me to get it in a pinch for work.


Like if you check lowes or homedepot I dont see anything called gaffers tape or gaffe tape available here. If you go to guitarcenter.com you do.
I dont know if its just a labeling thing or not though.



You may already know this (sorry if so) but this is what Im talking about

https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Gaffer-GafferPower-Available-Multiple/dp/B00GZE3UJ8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1527720749&sr=8-1&keywords=gaffer+tape

its a cloth tape that leaves no residue and is very easy to tear

Do not use electrical tape. Use gaffer tape

Top rated one on Amazon is $16.71. I guess it might depend on what you mean by "a decent sized roll", but I have one and it's the size of a regular roll of tape, so I would call it "decent sized".

Build some! Get some hard plastic irrigation tubing from Lowes or Home Depot, a few connectors, and some duct tape/grip tape or sand paper. If you know someone with a saw, great, if not you'll want to get a pipe cutter. Building your own is fun and while it seems spendy, I've gotten at least 5 hoops from a roll and have been able to downsize at will. You'll probably want to tape the hoop for added weight, and while gaff tape is nice and great for grip, duct tape is a bit cheaper and does a good enough job.

Congratulations on 3 months sober, it's inspiring to hear hooping has helped!

The TL:DR answer is "gaffer's tape, gaffer's tape, gaffer's tape" specifically for the Replicator+

Don't bother with blue painters tape or glue sticks. Neither works with the awful flex build plate grip surface that comes with the newest MakerBots.

I run a campus makerspace with three MakerBots. It's been a year since we got them, and we've only just NOW (read: within the last few months) figured out how to cut down on about 95% of the warping. Lots of the solutions on /r/fixmyprint might come from folks who aren't too familiar with MakerBot printers and the true shittiness of the flex build plate grip surface. For reference, our machines are used by a campus of about 10,000 students, so the machines are running 9 hours a day, every day. We ran into the warping problem a lot.

First and foremost, if you're within the 30-day return window, return yours. MakerBot machines have become absolute garbage, and if it wasn't for the $250 restocking fee that MakerBot charges after that 30 days, I'd return my three MakerBots in a heartbeat. Both the extruders and the build plates for the Replicator+ are truly awful. The proprietary MakerBot Print software leaves very little in the way of customization, so you can't really expect to even modify some of the slicer settings to test out what some of the folks on /r/fixmyprint might suggest. At any rate, you should always print with a raft, because of the lack of a heated build plate.

MakerBot Customer Support, in their infinite wisdom, will typically recommend the following things over and over. I've spent more hours on the phone with them than hours at my job, and I'll preface this by saying none of their solutions worked in the long-term for any of our machines:

1. Blue painters tape is the go-to proposed solution by lots of folks. Don't bother, it just peels off as the plastic cools and shrinks. Likewise it scratches so easily, you end up replacing it weekly. In the specific case of MakerBot Replicator+ beds, blue painters tape doesn't stick for very long to the intentionally rough buildtak surface of the build plate, as opposed to with other smooth glass or PEI build plates.
   
2. Wiping build plates with isopropyl alcohol between prints to get rid of fingerprints and dirt. Never had a positive effect on our printed part quality.
   
3. Using helper disks is the solution most often suggested by MakerBot Support. Helper disks just warp off as the print warps, and pull the print up with them. They never worked for us, and did little to prevent warping or curling, even if we placed upwards of eight helper disks around the model.
   
4. Adjusting orientation to minimize surface area sticking to the build plate. On your model, try rotating it so the slimmest edge sits on the plate itself to create less surface area touching the flex build plate itself. This actually sort of works, but not consistently. Sometimes, it's not an ideal solution if propping up the model on a long edge creates tons of new supports.
   
5. Manually adjusting the z-offset height to be closer to build plate. This one, like adjusting the orientation, helped slightly but not in the long run. You're basically smushing more filament into the build plate if you lower the nozzle, which might help. But be careful not to scratch your build plate. Move down in small increments at a time and test.
   
6. Adjusting initial temperatures and slowing down the initial raft and first layer, and turning off the fan for the first few layers is another solution. Not a bad habit to get into, even if it doesn't work with MakerBot printers. Set the initial fan speed from 100% to 0%.
   
7. Avoiding twisting the flex build plates at all, in order to prevent hard-to-detect warping effects. These Replicator+ flexible plates were supposed to be a novel, flexible way to remove printed parts but they have a tendency become permanently warped over time, leading to uneven build plate surfaces. Instead, use a spatula carefully and don't put too much force at all on the build plate.
   
8. Replacing the build plate entirely. A manager at MakerBot admitted over the phone that they ended up having no idea that the flex build plates were so bad, and warped so readily, and he said that they were slowly learning that the build plates were essentially a "consumable" just like filament. Meaning you can expect that if you're twisting them (even a little) to remove prints, you'll be replacing that flex build plate regularly. Another gold star for the MakerBot equipment quality control department.
   
   The solution that worked for us was buying gaffer's tape. Another redditor recommended it, and we purchased this gaffer's tape. Since then, not a single print has failed due to warping issues. We can spread objects across the build plate with little regard for orientation or arrangement without much issue. Granted, on extremely large prints that take up the entire print volume, we might see a slight (maybe 5% at the corner, warping up about 1 or 2mm from the plate) warping issue, but it's nearly perfect compared to before.
   
   We've only had to redo the gaffer's tape laid down two months ago once so far. I can't understate the amazing value of gaffer's tape.

I prefer to cover the bottom of the pedals with gaffer tape — there are YouTube videos (which is how I found out about this) but I do it a little differently:

1. Take off the bottom plate of the pedal
   
2. Cover the outside bottom plate with gaffer tape from side to side (left/right, not top to bottom) so that you have about 1/8” or so that wraps around to the inside of the bottom plate.
   
3. For a typical Boss-size pedal, you’ll need a bit more than two strips so for best results start at the middle and then do top and bottom overlapping with the first piece of tape.
   
4. If there is a battery door on the bottom, leave a space for it (unless you’re 100% sure you’ll never use a battery)
   
5. I’ve found that some mini pedals (Mooer) it’s virtually impossible to get the bottom plate off. For any pedal it is possible to wrap the tape around the outside but putting it on the bottom plate gets better results because the pressure of the plate against the enclosure fights against the tape coming off.
   
6. Now the tape gives you a very flat, clean surface for the velcro
   
7. I always use brand-name industrial velcro. I don’t wait days but I do let it sit for a while (20-30 minutes) before starting to use it.
   
8. People have lots of opinions about what size/shape velcro to put on the bottom of the pedal. For most standard size pedals I put a single strip of 2” hook side that runs the entire length of the pedal top to bottom (leaving about 1/8” margin at each end) — although this makes it harder to get the pedal off the board, the velcro actually stays on the pedal better for the same reason that it stays on the board better if you use a single long strip from end to end — as you pull to detach the pedal, the unattached portions of the velcro strip keep the velcro from pulling off at the tension point.
   
   Edit: the gaffer tape should come off clean in most cases so this is also a great way to attach velcro to new/mint pedals and be able to easily get it off later when you want to sell but leave the pedal in mint condition.

https://www.amazon.com/Roland-JD-XI-JD-Xi/dp/B00VHFOV3E/
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014M8ZO8S?ref=emc_b_5_t
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https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Gaffer-GafferPower-Available-Multiple/dp/B00GZE3UJ8/

I'm only half joking.

Real Premium Grade Gaffer Tape By GafferPower Made in the USA Black (Also Available in Multiple Colors) 2 Inch X 30 Yards Heavy Duty Gaffer's Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GZE3UJ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Pun4CbSXM3219

Gaffer's tape and a sledgehammer oughta fix it.

Do yourself a favor and pick up some Gaffer Tape and place on the printing surface(Tray). It helps the first layer of a print adhere to the surface much better. I used to struggle with starting a print almost every time but after I started using the tape I haven't had a problem since.

The magic tape you seek is gaffer's tape.

https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Premium-Grade-Gaffer-Power/dp/B00GZE3UJ8

Gaffer tape

Gaffer's Tape, not what you're talking about though. It's aluminum wire backed duct tape. The God tier of all tapes.

Hello, I somewhat specialize here.

What you can do is use gaff tape to secure the phone to the headset. use it around all the edges, at your discretion. you MUST use gaff tape because it leaves very little sticky residue... some may stay because of the heat, but its very easily cleanable. The strength of duct tape without the mess.

https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Premium-Grade-Gaffer-Power%C2%AE/dp/B00GZE3UJ8
*This comes in many colors, even white, which may suit better to be less noticeable.

After that, you can secure the black cover plate to it to cover up the phone... if you care more about security than aesthetics, go ahead and secure the black cover plate to the headset as well with the gaff tape...

alternatively, you can configure an anti theft pull box to the phone and/or headset. anti theft kits will most likely leave some sort of mark on either device so use with caution.

http://www.cissecuritysolutions.com/Anti-Theft_Pull-Boxes.html

You might be interested in QLC+ (it's free and open source) and an Enttec DMX USB Pro mk I (same company as the DMXIS, but a hundred bucks less). I've programmed a show for a buddy's band to their click track and had a generally positive time with it. I'm a professional lighting nut, so I thought it was a bit restrictive, but that's more of a problem I have with preprogrammed shows than with the software.

Take the $200 you'd save with this control scheme instead and spent it on safety cables, velcro cable ties, a storage bin for your cables, computer, and DMX adapter, gaff tape, and pizza for when you get together to program and jam the first time!

Those links probably aren't the best options for each thing, I just wanted to link examples.

Yes, there is a way:

• Press Controls at the very bottom left
  
• Press Settings at the top of the window that came up
  
• Press Safety & Security along the left
  
• Press Data Sharing
  
• Uncheck the first I Agree box
  
  Edit: This disables sending clips to Tesla, but it might still be recording. If it really comes to it, gaffers tape?. I'd just ask the gate guards if they know of anyone there has a tesla. If they say yes, there is obviously something that can be done....

Heads up, the only issue I've had with my pressure pad in the past 8 or so months (range/ fun time weapon, not a work gun) is that your run of the mill gaffer tape shits a huge amount of slime onto the pressure pad, but even then, goo-gone gets rid of it

"A gaffer in the motion picture industry and on a television crew is the head electrician, responsible for the execution (and sometimes the design) of the lighting plan for a production. The term gaffer originally related to the moving of overhead equipment to control lighting levels using a gaff. The gaffer's assistant is the best boy.[1]

Sometimes the gaffer is credited as Chief Lighting Technician (CLT)."
-Wikipedia

Side note: that's why the black tape used to secure/hide cords is called gaffer's tape

"In US and Canadian filmmaking, the key grip supervises all grip (lighting and rigging) crews and reports to the director of photography.[1]"
-Wikipedia

So the Key Grip is similar to the Gaffer, but has a focus on things like dollies, cranes, vehicles, etc.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GZE3UJ8

It's great stuff!

Gaff tape sticks to everything

REAL USA Professional Grade Gaffer Tape By Gaffer Power, Made in the USA, Heavy Duty Gaffers Tape, Non-Reflective, Multipurpose. (2 Inches x 30 Yards, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GZE3UJ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cvR0Db5P2XRNQ

I run a 50' ethernet cable from my living room into my bedroom. I just pulled it tight, and secured it with a roll of Gaffer's Tape. Once it's gaffed down you can stick it under a rug or what have you. For two cables put them side by side, pull tight, and gaff a foot at a time

No, that is gorilla tape, that's double thick duct tape.

Gaffer's tape is matte black and comes up with little to no residue.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GZE3UJ8/

The bung did not want to stay in initially. I think because I had pulled it from the sanitized water so to make sure it wasn't going anywhere and ruining the works I secured it with some gaffers tape.

Unrelated pro tip from photo and video experience. Decent gaffers tape is much better for securing non paper items than duck tape. It wont leave a sticky mess and its just as strong if not stronger than duck tape.

This is what I use and love

It looks a lot like Gaf Tape.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GZE3UJ8/