Reddit reviews General Pencil Company Inc., The Masters Brush Cleaner & Preserver 1 Oz.
We found 69 Reddit comments about General Pencil Company Inc., The Masters Brush Cleaner & Preserver 1 Oz.. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Formulated for use with oilsacrylics and watercolorsWill even remove dried on paints and paint stainsClean fresh scentPlastic jar contains 1 ounce/28.3 gramsN/A
You wanna be the best fiance ever u/vickicamfield?
Get him one of these.
His neck will thank you, his hands will thank you, his precision will thank you. Probably the best purchase I've ever made for minis. You can snag em at most hobby shops.
Bonus, if he wants to do detail work I recommend a cheap set of reading glasses. He won't have to strain his eyes as much and they are a nice magnifying glass....es... you get the point lol.
PS: I recommend bright white light for better color recognition and more akin to natural light.
Edit: Also if he is thinning with water, get this. I find it works better than water and mixes with metallics!
Edit 2: For brush care, dont forget to get some brush cleaner and conditioner. Maybe a wet palette for longer paint sessions. For brushes, winsor and newton are always a solid choice.
Edit 3: Folks are asking for essentials. Here is a short list:Vallejo thinner
Masters brush conditioner
Liquid cement for plastics
Cheap airbrush for prime/basecoat
Excellent choices but you forgot two necessities that no one ever seems to cover when they recommend upgrading to quality brushes. Especially ones as expensive as Newtons, which can run in the $40 dollar range for the larger sizes.
[Brush Shaper] (https://www.amazon.com/Speedball-2-Ounce-Brush-Shaper-Restoration/dp/B000UXHBP4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520405791&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=brush+shaper)
This will save you a lot of money and headache in the future and keep your brush tips nice and sharp. I often see people complain about bristle quality and return their brushes because they weren't educated on proper brush care technique or the existence of this product. To give you an idea I have some old Davinci brushes I bought when I first started the hobby 15 years ago and they hold their points like new. Hell even cheapo brushes become actual workman's tools when you use this stuff.
-Masters: if you prefer solid bar type soap. One of these will last you for a decade if you keep the lid tight and the soap moist.
-[Pink Soap] (https://www.amazon.com/Pink-Soap-12-Ounce-Cleaner-Conditioner/dp/B0027A79I2/ref=pd_sbs_201_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B0027A79I2&amp;pd_rd_r=5FGK26S58JK2D46M7DK3&amp;pd_rd_w=7U2UF&amp;pd_rd_wg=jjUmB&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=5FGK26S58JK2D46M7DK3&amp;dpID=31GCq6nHuxL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=detail): If you prefer liquid.
Remember these are art brushes designed to be handled by an experienced artist with a light touch. Their intended use isn't mini painting which can be quite brutal on brush fibers. Miniature hobbyists and modelers aren't, in general, what I would call trained painters (no shade thrown) so using them as a resource in handling artists tools can be a bit limiting or downright pricey. As such I recommend it to anyone to watch this brush care vid by someone who uses the products I linked to maintain his gear. Proper brush care will save you a ton of money over time allowing you to spend that saved cash on new minis rather than on replacing your tools.
This is the brush soap that everybody recommends.
Make sure you don't get paint in the ferrule (the metal bit where the bristles meet the brush). Paint will dry there and cause the splaying. Frequently rinse off the brush in a cup of water while you're painting.
You sure do, I posted a product below. You can get it in most hobby stores and all art supply stores. Little bit of water and move the brush around in the soap work out all the crap. If you take care of your "nice new sable brushes" they will take care of you :)
This stuff might save it. Also good to have regardless, keeps the bristles perfectly clean.
> Is there any reason to take Hormagaunts over Genestealers?
When having more bodies on the table and tying up enemy units in melee is a greater consideration than just killing units outright.
This is a rare situation lol. Killing is good. But there are some fringe cases... for example, you're playing Hive Fleet Behemoth rules and you want to use their unique stratagem (Brute Force, which basically has a 16% chance to deal a mortal wound for each friendly model that makes it into close combat) and you need to bring down something with a strong invul save (so like... Mortarian, or Guilliman, or somebody) and your only option is to drown it in low quality bodies.
In those cases it might be more useful to just have a fucking gargantuan amount of Hormagaunts.
But in 99% of situations, Genestealer spam is superior, for the points.
> I'd like to use florescent dye on my 'nids, so they glow-in-the-dark. Is this viable; If so, how would I go about it (mix the dye with the paint? Apply it as a gloss?); & what should I use to do so, specifically?
I haven't messed with this myself but I would assume if it is of a compatible material it should be mixable. Is the dye acrylic? Most miniature paints are acrylic.
> * Any painting/modelling tips you could give me would be greatly appreciated.
Make a wet palette, learn the difference between priming/basing/layering/washing/highlighting/drybrushing, get a drybrush, get a base coating brush, get a fine detail brush.... then once you figure out what you're doing and you're ready to REALLY detail some fine detail, graduate to a Windsor & Newton Series 7 sable hair detail brush... sable hair is so much better at holding a fine point and stays moist longer.
Also, invest in a tub of brush cleaner: https://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B001TNR7VM
It's cheap and lasts forever, just get your brush wet, brush it back and forth on the top of the block o' soap, get the soap all massaged into the bristles, and rinse with room temp water. Repeat until the bristles are nice and silky smooth.
Never get paint in the ferrule (the part where the bristles join with the rest of the brush). Never get any sort of chemicals in there either, like isopropyl alcohol or even soap if you can manage. Cheaper brushes use weak glues and soap could dissolve them - probably not an issue on a Windsor & Newton brush, but you don't want to take the risk. Just be in the habit of only immersing brushes in things-other-than-water up to the ferrule, never past it.
Water in the ferrule is fine and should not be a problem. Always rinse your brushes when you're finished painting for the day, dried paint will fuck your brushes up over time.
Decide on a paint scheme and then paint your SMALL models first! Do all your learning on the little dudes that nobody is looking at on the table lol. Then once you've built your skill up, do the big impressive looking monsters. When you have 30 Hormagaunts all climbing over each other to get to the enemy, they can look like absolute shit individually but as a horde they look awesome as long as you have them all painted identically. The uniformity is what makes them pop. But when you have one single monster by itself, people look very closely at that and technique is more important.
Paint your swarms in batches. Prime all 30 Hormagaunts. Wait till the next day. Base coat all 30 Hormagaunts. Wait a day. Layer the Hormagaunts' carapace. Etc. Do one step for 30 models, not 30 steps for one model. This prevents a lot of logistical bullshit like running out of space on your wet palette.
Most importantly, make "om nom nom nom" noises when finishing off enemy units.
I approve of this message and I have nothing to add.
Except that I use a size 6 brush for almost everything.
[EDIT] Wait, I do have something ESSENTIAL to add: Get this brush cleaner. I've been working on the same tub of it for the last year and it works miracles with any brush. Even if the brush has paint dried on it this stuff will still make you very happy.
Yos should use this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/General-Pencil-Masters-Cleaner-Preserver-1oz/dp/B001TNR7VM
It works like magic.
I use some brush cleaning soap like this one after painting: https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B001TNR7VM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_p7b6AbGXXKP4R
Do you use a brush soap to clean your brushes? I use this:http://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B001TNR7VM
The key is to leave some soap on the brush when you are not using it and shape the brush to a point (or however it is naturally suppose to be shaped) so that when it dries it will keep that shape. Just be sure to thoroughly rime the brush in your water cup before dipping in the paint.
The Master's Brush Cleaner & Preserver-1 Ounce https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001TNR7VM/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_btrEwb6B57JRV
That's the standard size. £4.16 + free uk delivery.
Give this stuff a go it’s saved me many pounds on brushes
Here's a few quick tips.
Never leave your brushes standing in a water pot. The bristles will bend and fray very quickly (like less than a minute).
Never let the paint get on or around the metal ferrule part of the brush. That's the bit where the bristles join the handle. Paint is hard to get out of there, and when it dries, it can push out, bend or cut the bristles.
Try to keep the paint to only half of the bristle length.
Wash often and thoroughly. Don't let paint dry in the bristles. Keep it wet, or wash out and get more paint. As above, keep the paint volume minimal. You can load the brush up a bit more if it's a more watery paint like a wash or glaze.
Further to above, you can use brush cleaner or conditioner. It helps get the paint off a bit better than water and can help hold the shape for longer. Can also help remove dried up paint.
I've recently started using Masters Brush Cleaner (https://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B001TNR7VM). Comes in heaps of sizes, will last for AGES and it's amazing how much extra paint it gets out of the brush.
Try not use detail and high quality brushes for "rough" painting or drybrushing. That sort of motion can damage and bend the thin bristles. Use a specific drybrush or a cheap $2 one for that.
Generally more expensive brushes are better, but there is a limit to that. I jumped over to Winsor & Newton Series 7 brushes and it made a big difference to my painting, however, they still get damaged and they won't last forever either. Obviously, good care will make them last longer but I've been pretty bad at that lately.
For a new painter some of the Army Painter or GW range is a pretty good start. Once you get better and learn to care for the brushes properly, then grab yourself some more expensive stuff.
Winsor and Newton Series 7, I do 99% of my work with size 0 and 1 brushes, and just use my 000 for faces and extremely small highlights.
Also, if you're destroying your brushes that quickly you need to take better care of them. Make sure you're not using them to mix paint, don't let paint get in the ferrule (the metal part), and clean them regularly with this magic stuff
The Masters brush cleaner & preserver is awesome for cleaning and maintaining your brushes. It also lasts forever because you only need a teensy tiny bit to give your brushes a lil spa day! https://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B001TNR7VM
That's the brand
I have seen a lot of people recommend Masters Brush Cleaner and Preserver, as linked below.
I've got myself a pot and it is really good, the first time i used it I was amazed how much paint came out of what I thought was a 'clean' brush.
Quite cheap as well, and it will last forever.
This stuff work wonders for cleaning & maintaining your brushes.
If you ever need brush cleaner, this works really well. I have used alcohol before though, and it definitely works well for dried on paint with a bit of soap.
I'd also add brush cleaner for when you upgrade to the nice brushes.
I'd say with almost absolute certainty, DO NOT BUY the citadel brushes. Buy 1 or 2 Winsor Newton series 7 brushes. Probably a #1 and a #0. Buy some of this masters brush cleaner as well. And you're set. My personal advice is to clean your brush every 5-10 minutes no matter what. The citadel brushes are sooooo damned expensive for what you get vs what you need that it feels criminal.
Masters brush cleaner is awesome. It's basically a soap you work into the brush and it can revitalize even far gone brushes.
Here's Les from the Awesomepaintjob using it
It's good stuff.
(DEATH TO THE FALSE EMPEROR!)
Army Painter are probably the best reasonably priced equivalent however if you want to up your game definitely splash out on some Windsor and Newton Series 7 like /u/Route66_LANparty mentioned.
Whatever you go with make sure you get some of this, proper use will keep your brushes alive for months on end ;)
You get what you pay for with brushes. If you're a mini painter that uses brushes all day then you want them to last and maintain a decent tip, so something like a Winsor Newton Series 7 brush is high up in your game. If you're using brushes occasionally and airbrushing most of the time, then a decent set of synthetic brushes will do. Somewhere in the middle is the step up from synthetic to sable hair brushes, Army Painter do a nice selection in a box or individually, Amazon offer some nice synthetic brushes in sets, just read the reviews.
Maintaining a brush is the important thing to learn, I use two pots of water, one for a heavy brush rinse, then a second for a cleaner rinse before wiping on a paper towel. Always store with the plastic covers on either horizontally or vertically brushes up. Never fill a brush to the metal ferrule with paint and always thin your paints. It's worth getting in the habit of every couple of minutes rinsing the paint from your brush so they don't dry up. At the end of a painting session, if using acrylics take the brushes to a warm tap and rinse and clean with your fingers, I also use a Masters brush cleaner when cleaning under the tap, it makes brushes last so much longer.
The only reason to stay away from GW brushes is the price. You can buy comparable brushes for slightly less that's all.
At the end of the day, whatever brush you buy: TAKE CARE OF THEM.
I'd say for anything that's smaller than a vehicle, a well maintained 1 is a fine brush. If the tip is good, you can go as high as a 3 but will need some good control. I do edge highlighting with a 000 to 0, I have an 18/0 for eyes. I'll base with a 1 or larger depending on how quickly I want it done.
Here's a Brush Cleaner I, and a lot of people I know, use
It's a lifesaver, have used it for a long time as a painter, works just as well for modeling. clean your brushes with it after every session. you can also find, at art stores, brush reshaping conditioners made to fix frayed bristles.
if you are buyng high quality brushes, they need to be very well taken care of to be worth the money.
are you painting detail work, or whole kits?
Brushes whatever you need, I use a lot the 0, 3/0 and 10/0 all round tipped but this depends on how you paint. A lot of people here (in other posts) mentioned Winston and Newton series 7 if I remember well, I use davinci and vallejo ones. The best bristle is from kolinsky sable.
About having the same brush repeated for each type of paint is kinda retarded but if you feel like doing it go ahead.
What you really need if you want them to last is this
. Just google it and there're a ton of vids on how to use it (not hard but just in case)
I have that same brush and it also looks like that when it is dry. It is one of my favorite brushes. I read somewhere that as long as the brush comes to a fine point when wet, then all is still good :)
My brush care from my experience - When I'm done painting I rinse or swish the brush with warm water until there is no color if I dab it on a paper towel. Squeeze out excess water, and let them dry on their side (upside down would be better so that water doesn't leak into the ferrule). This is the lazy approach but works best, I'm finding :)
If I used a staining color like phthalo blue, or if I feel like the brush is still dirty, I might use a little of the master's conditioning soap to clean it, rinse, apply a little more to "condition" and then squeeze out excess water and shape to a point. I used to use this every time after I painted, but I heard it can be a little harsh on natural bristles so now I just do it every once in awhile.
Another tip is just to be gentle with brushes while painting - if you scrub with them they wear out quicker - I often use a cheap brush when mixing colors or doing scrubby things.
I'm not 100% sure this is the best care for brushes, as every guide or person seems to have their own way, but this is how I've been taking care of my natural and synthetic brushes for a few years and almost all of them are still holding up well. Some of my synthetic brushes are losing their sharp tip a little over time.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001TNR7VM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523285574&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=paint+brush+cleaner this is the brush cleaner I use. I get my brush wet and then "paint" the cleaner, getting it mushy, and then massage my brushes and rinse a couple times. Helps me a lot. For brushes, Michael's is a good resource or some place local to you. Don't be afraid to spend 5-10 dollars on a single brush. Like OP said a no 1 and no 00 are good, I also like to get a filbert style, no 4 I think, maybe 6, for base coating and wider models like vehicles.
I haven't tried it yet myself (I've still got quite a ways to go on my BB solid cleanser) but someone posted this a couple of weeks ago as an alternative -- maybe you can give it a shot if baby shampoo doesn't end up working as well as you'd like!
At the end of an evening of painting I will dampen the brush I've been using in clean water (not the cup of water I have been using while painting, thus full of paint and potentially metallic flakes) and brush back and forth in my little cup of brush soap. Looks like this. Then rinse in clean water. Wipe off moisture on paper towel. Restore the tip of the brush by dragging it along towel or crease in the palm of your hand while rotating the brush. Replace the brush cap and store the brush vertically if possible, bristles down. Once a month, take a very tiny amount of hair conditioner (not shampoo/conditioner combo), brush the bristles in it for a bit to work it in, leave it sit for a minute or two. Rinse and store. If you do that, the brush will last a huge amount of time. Also don't use your best brush for dry brushing, washes, or applying the GW technical paints. Dry brushing is punishing to the tip of the brush, washes will get into the ferule (where the bristles are attached) and when it dries it forces the bristles apart, and technical paint typically has things in it that, like dry brushing, are just hard on the bristles. I would recommend cheap nylons for these uses.
When you dip a brush in a water pot, and I know this sounds excessive, you should avoid having it touch the bottom of the container or banging it into the sides. The bottom can do a lot of damage, the sides less so. I try to swish the brush around when it's a brush I care about. Crap brushes I'll bang them into the side, scrape the bottom.
Brush brands I use are Raphael, but I'm buying some Windsor & Newton Series 7 Miniatures today. There are a bunch of quality brands though. Windsor & Newton are very well respected.
Best of luck in your endeavors! Should you have more questions, need advice, really anything... let me know. I really enjoy passing on what I've learned. I've made mistakes so you don't have to!
This stuff? Is that okay to use on something you're going to put on your face? It's so cheap but I'm afraid of it because it says it's for paint brushes. :s
Top tier brush cleaner.
Personally, I find this as a great "thank you" for fellow mini painters, as it's relatively cheap and has been something that the two people (massive numbers here...) Who I know, that paint, have never heard of.
Paints- as above- down to your choice. I do like gw paints but the pots are shite and I find there's a lot of wastage, which isn't any fault of mine. That said, it's probably been designed that way so that gw can milk more revenue out of us. I have a lot of love for the Vallejo range, I find their textured stuff to be far better, and far more varied than the gw range. To be honest I'm not a big fan of the army painter range, but do use a few of their rattle cans.
Brushes- again, you'll pay through the arse for gw products.. (notice a theme?). I understand a number of pro painters (Sam Lenz springs to mind) who use pretty "standard" cheap brushes to get phenomenal results.
If you have a look on YouTube there's a huge amount of channels dedicated to the hobby and offering detailed analysis of paint brands, brushes etc. Miniac is a great start.
Hope this helps, just my two pence :)
If you have an art store near you (I went to Blick), go and get The Masters Brush Cleaner and Preserver! It was made to gently clean art brushes (even oil paint) and it works amazingly well. It's like $6 for a 1 oz solid - they also come in larger tubs but I wanted to make sure I liked it before committing- and it's AMAZING. The makeup just melts off the brushes, they get so nice and soft after washing and it has a nice lemony scent!!
Link for the lazy :)
General Pencil Company The Masters Brush Cleaner & Preserver 1 Oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TNR7VM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_zzGRwb944R38A
Ahh I see that stands for Convergance now. Hold on let me pull that up. Jesus all of those are metallics aren't they. I am very sorry for you. Especially if this is your first time painting. What is your idea of how you want to paint them. At some point you will need a few other non metalic base colors I think. But that it up to you.
Now there are two things you need to know for metalic paints.
So again I hope this helps, and if you have any questions feel free to PM me or just comment back.
Yeah, I would recommend some decent synthetics while you're still learning the ropes. When you're a beginner, you can be unintentionally rough on your brushes and synthetics are cheap + fairly reliable, depending on what you get. Privateer Press makes some good ones: http://privateerpress.com/content/work-hobby-brush . Also, get some of this stuff, it will greatly extend the lifespan of your brushes: http://www.amazon.com/General-Company-Masters-Cleaner-Preserver/dp/B001TNR7VM . Trust me, you'll want to learn good brush care early on, it'll be a lifesaver.
Once you've been at it a while, I would actually recommend the Winsor and Newton Series 7 line of brushes instead of those miniature brushes. If you're going to buy a Kolinsky sable brush, I would recommend a full sized one like the Series 7, which is the industry standard. The problem with those miniature brushes is like you said: they have a smaller tip and don't hold as much paint, which means more trips to the pot.
Dang that looks way better than my first models haha.
Though, I do have advice. I would recommend trying out dry brushing in small layers (bunch of youtube vids on how to do that). What I typically do is dry brush abbadon black as a base coat of sorts, 2-4 coats will do, and then adding mephiston red in thin layers (2-5 will do). It may be overkill but I personally like it that way.
This way, you won't have clumps of paint over your models, nor will there be many brush marks.
Note: this technique works well if you get a specific dry brushing brush thing. GW sells one as well and it works pretty well :D
Also, get a brush soap. An absalute neccessity if you want your brushes to work for the years to come.
Hope this helps and Emperor bless! FOR SANGUINIUS!!
Edit: had to add stuff and remove [REDACTED]
I don't where you are but Amazon has it. https://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B001TNR7VM
Is this the item / brand you're referring to?
If so it's on amazonUK :)
Would it be a terrible idea to use a paintbrush cleaning soap like this one? It’s supposed to be “mild” but I think that refers more to the brush than to whatever is left in the brush after you wash it. I just like these because they’re a really convenient shape for cleaning brushes. (Also I obviously wouldn’t use the same one I use for paints.)
I personally use Raphael Sable Kolinsky Brushes, sizes from about 0 to 2 depending on what I'm working on. They're fairly priced for their quality and you can definitely feel the difference between this and a cheap brush when painting.
If you make an investment in some nice brushes that you get something to clean them with and keep them in top form. Personally I use the Master's Brush Cleaner.
The big ones at least look good. The small ones can be ruined quickly, but this is true with all cheap brushes, basically. So if they are not expensive, I'd say go for it. Especially if you are just starting to learn how to paint miniatures, it's much better to get lots of cheap brushes and only once you have a good grasp of the basics you should start checking the more expensive ones (Winsor & Newton, Raphael etc.).
The most important thing with brush care is, as it was already said in another comment, never let paint dry on your brushes. So when painting, stop every now and then and clean your brush. This can be surprisingly difficult as you could be in the zone while painting and don't want to stop, but you should. Properly clean the brush and then dry it by dragging it against a paper towel while turning the brush, so that you will end up with nice sharp shape. Diluting your paints helps with this, too.
Never "load" your brush with paint so that it reaches all the way to the metal thingy (can't remember the actual name). If you load your brush too full and the paint dries, the bristles in your brush will be pointing every direction and this will ruin the brush as it is very difficult to clean it afterwards.
Store the brushes in a mug or similar holder and make sure the brush end points upwards. This will help to keep the brush sharp.
At some point I would advice you to buy some brush cleaning agent specifically designed for the job. I and many others use the Master's Brush Cleaner and Preserver, but any soap designed for brush cleaning will do.
That's all I can think of now, but it should get you started. You can also try Youtube for brush care tips by non-miniature painters. Just make sure they use acrylic paints. Good luck!
Thanks :) The smallest brush I used on these is a 2/0, it's important to have a really good point though. I use Winsor and Newton series 7. I usually start with a GW standard size brush for basecoating the larger areas and then use a size 0 for the bulk of the work, finish some minor details and the eyes with the 2/0.
The higher quality brushes just last a bit longer by keeping a point a little better. It's important to take good care of them though so that they can last. Rinse them really well, be careful not to let paint get into the ferrule, and I use this stuff every once in a while:
I think the process of doing eyes is the key, and it really takes patience. It took me a long time to figure out a good way for me to get it to look good. Elizabeth's Sarya tutorial (https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/coolminiornot/arcadia-quest-inferno/posts/1616987) is pretty much the way I do it, although I do the black pupil before i do the highlighting of the iris, don't think that matters much.
Haha yeah no tricks for the bases. I use the standard size brush to put on the gray, then put on some spots of red/ purple/ yellow for the other color stones, then use the 2/0 brush to draw in some lines.
I'm excited for you!
I swipe it around in brush cleaner. http://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B001TNR7VM?ie=UTF8&amp;keywords=brush%20soap&amp;qid=1463077999&amp;ref_=sr_1_2&amp;sr=8-2.
It usually seems to get off some color that didn't get rinsed in the water.
This particular model might be done already. From what I can see you do not use a wet palette, washes or do highlights. Time to grab another model and once you get more comfortable with your skills you can return to this guy and fix him up.
As a basic rule for painting minis, you should paint in multiple, thin layers always starting with a darker color than the final one you wish to achieve, building up to the highlights. Painting this way gives you more control over the final result but is of course time consuming. Of course there are always exceptions to the rule. Part of the hobby!
Good luck fellow Heretic!
Masters Brush Cleaner is the key. Use it and they'll last for a long time. I'm fairly new to minipainting, but I have been building models for a long time, I still have the first Series 7 I bought nearly 10 years ago.
Its been mentioned before, but I also second the suggestion of the Windsor & Newton series 7 brushes. Get him a 1 point or a 3 point.
Also there is this cheap but extremely effective brush cleaner that can help repair old brushes and maintain new ones
As a starting point you should probably look into natural Sable Brushes, size 2 for basecoating and 0 or 0/2 for finer detailing. Make sure it has a good point. I am currently using these, the regiment brush is quite good.
Some mini painters will quickly mention Newton and Winsor 7 series brushes or Raphael Kolinsky sable brushes, which are more expensive, but I cannot confirm that, I have not tried Kolinsky sable brushes. Be sure to buy a nice brush cleaner to preserve your natural hair brushes.
Here is a nice unbiased information (mini painters tend to be fanboys on certain brands of paints and brushes) about brushes or this one by one of the best mini painters around, one of the comments mentions Toray brushes which are often used by minipainters
EDIT: Added the APJ link
'The Masters' Brush Cleaner. It's sold on amazon for $5.19 the smallest size.
This stuff gets it clean like BRAND NEW.
Water for acrylic, but with using this soap after.
Also, stand your brushes vertically, don't put them bristle side down. Seems obvious, but you can do a lot of damage to a brush that way very quickly.
And I don't have "nice" brushes (no sable here). I use golden talkon synthetic bristle you can get at most well stocked art stores. Yellow/orange in color.
Highly recommend getting this to get started: Reaper Bones Learn to Paint Kit
Also, if you want to make your life a little easier, consider making or buying a wet palette, a nice Sable brush, and definitely some Master's Brush Cleaner.
If you're just painting the one mini, you can get Reaper paints and use their online tool to decide which colors to get.
No problem I'm always happy to help people with their hobby.
I'd actually recommend getting some miniatures and paints first. The hobby really is about the models and the spectacle, if you don't enjoy them as objects you probably won't enjoy the rest. Pick the models you like the most and go from there. Also literally a table cloth with some boxes on is enough to have a go at most game systems, so I wouldn't worry too much about terrain for the time being.
In terms of game system it sounds like http://www.boltaction.com/ might be the ideal game for you, it's pretty easy to pick up, well supported by warlord games (they do global campaigns for it which is very cool), you don't need a ton of models and it's very fun and popular. I'd pick up maybe a box of infantry (or a starter army if you're willing to make the investment) and the rule book (warlord books are beautiful). I'd also recommend r/boltaction, it might be worth posting a question there. Warlord games also has their own forum http://www.warlordgames.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=48&amp;sid=88c53ccceabba7211bf08b6ef18c67a6 where you can ask questions, a good place for beginners. Also use youtube, it's become an excellent resource for wargamers, you'll be able to find introductory videos, battle reports and all sorts.
I wouldn't buy that paint set, paint's are expensive and they rack up pretty fast, I'd buy the paints you need for the models you have. Get vallejo paints, they tend to be the best for historicals. After you've decided what models you want to buy I'd post a question there asking exactly which paints to get to paint them 'correctly'. Some historical gamers are very finnicky about uniforms being perfect, I'm not one of them, but it is nice to be broadly accurate. If you want to be perfect check out https://ospreypublishing.com/store/military-history/series-books/men-at-arms these books are like the painting guides for historical models. Many are even designed based on their art.
Brushes; this is an area that I believe it is worth spending a bit more money, good brushes will last (provided you maintain them) and will improve your painting experience enormously. Although I occasionally paint commissions so my perspective is a little different. I'd recommend Windsor Newton Series 7 brushes (better for detail) or Raphael Kolinsky brushes (better for blending, harder to get though). To start with just get one for normal painting (windsor newton size 0), and one for fine detail (windsor newton size 0 or 00) should do. I'd strongly recommend getting http://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B001TNR7VM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450981902&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=masters+brush+soap to keep your brushes clean and to help maintain their point. These are natural fibre brushes so after cleaning it's a good idea just to dip them in some hair conditioner so prevent them drying out too much, then rinse them clean. I use this stuff http://www.dickblick.com/products/weber-turpenoid-natural/ The beginner synthetic brushes most people use are frankly a waste of money. The best tip I can give you regarding painting though is to always thin your paints, either with water or Vallejo Glaze Medium. Also don't forget to spray prime your models, citadel or army painter sprays are good for this, most people use black. Look up zenithal priming if you want to get fancy.
Terrain's broadly split into 2 categories, static terrain, and moveable terrain. Static terrain is usually what you'll see in magazines, dioramas in museums etc. An entirely modelled board. When done well it looks incredible, the pinnacle of the hobby. http://miniscaping.com/miniscape/preview/248#active-gallery one of my favourites, the British siege of Badajoz in 1812 during the Peninsular Campaign. http://www.matakishi.com/TH%20table%202%20600.jpg a medieval conflict.
The only problem is when it's your table and you play most of your games on it, playing in the identical village/farmstead can get a bit dull. Also storing static terrain tends to be really hard. So we move onto moveable or modular terrain, which what most people use and I'd definitely recommend. This consists of having buildings, forest etc on bases that you can move around to mix up your games. It's also very cheap generally, e.g. take a beard trimmer to a doormat, and voila, you now have a ploughed field, spray/dye some towelling material green and you have great looking grass. An example http://imgur.com/a/EGvpK
I still use pasting tables as my table, they are 6ft x 2ft, fold away and are very cheap, I'm not sure what they're called in the us but this is what I mean: http://www.homebase.co.uk/en/homebaseuk/hardboard-top-folding-pasting-table---1780-x-560-x-740mm-027611
Get 2 of those. Then place 3 4x2 plywood sheets on them, cloth on top of that, and there you have a cheap, good 6x4 starter table that is fast to set up and put away. Then populate it with terrain, model railway terrain is great for things like trees and much cheaper than specialist wargame terrain. You can always upgrade to more complex modular boards later using the plywood you bought.
Anyway sorry if that was a bit in depth, hope it was useful.
P.S. beer and wargaming are a good combination.
P.P.S. look for wargaming clubs in your area, there are a lot more than you may think, and are great places to meet other gamers, try different systems and get advice.
Definitely not a cheap alternative, but for a long lasting and high quality alternative I would always recommend Winsor & Newton Series 7 brushes. The size 1 is a good all rounder, and the brush I use the most. It strikes a good balance of being thin enough to do details, but large enough so the paint doesn't dry out on the tip straight away.
You could likely do everything you want to do with just a size 1 W&N brush, and one other cheaper, bigger brush for basing (for example the citadel large base brush).
Raphael also make good brushes, but I find the belly of the bristles to be a bit too fat for my liking.
If you are going to buy a more expensive brush, I also recommend picking up some brush cleaner. It really helps to extend the life of your brushes.
I'm also not dressing up this halloween, but I am going to be doing my sister's zombie makeup for her choir concert! I'm going to be taking major tips from that one zombie look in /r/makeupaddiction from /u/sssamanthaa. Here's to hoping that it'll be spooky scary!
Would really like to get this. It's cheaper, and shipping is free from -Supermart.
So Windsor Newton series 7 are beautiful and super long lasting if well treated.
Even just one size 1 is better than a bunch of varied cheaper brushes as they keep their point.
Also Masters brush cleaners is miraculous. De gunks gunk you didn't even know was gunking :)
I dont mean this to sound bad but are you mixing the paints with your series 7? I personally use junk brushes to mix colors, than use the series 7 to paint.
Other than that I dont usually have a problem and once a week I hand wash my brushes in Brush cleaner
One last thing, and its a bit gross =P But I am practicing 2 brush blending while I learn how to paint and the tip they all say to use is to suck on your brush tips and use your saliva to help move the paint. I also wonder if this doesnt help keep the paint out of the ferrule. Again, it sounds awful and gross but I think it works (and its not that bad). Just brush your teeth before you do it =D
Brush soap will help keep your brushes going longer. Working a wet brush across the cake then swirling the lathered bristles against the palm of your hand breaks up any paint in the belly of the brush or that has dried on the bristles. Rinse, add a little more soap, then shape the clean brush to a point and let it dry. Used at the end of your painting session, it'll extend the life of your brushes by months or even years. I swear by The Master's Brush Cleaner.
Varnish protects the paint job, reducing chipping and wear. PVC figures actually hold up pretty well without it, but I recommend using it anyway to get the most mileage possible out of your figures. It comes in gloss, satin, and matte. Matte is my preference because it doesn't interfere with the shadows and highlights as much as a shinier option.
Yes, yours is a better deal, the exact one I got was this listing. The packaging on the one you found reads more or less identical minus a website so I imagine it might be from older supply explaining the lower prices for volume.
Congratulations on making the BIG MONEY!!! Seriously, is everyone in the office bowing down and singing your praises?
If I were to win your raffle, I would like this for cleaning brushes and this for cleaning mah fayce! Thank you so much for hosting!
Eh, I'm kinda lazy and don't wash all my brushes every time but I try to wash the high-use ones semi regularly. I usually wash two or three at a time when I'm doing my skincare and waiting for actives (acids, enzymes) to work. Depending on the type of product, that could be 8 to 20 mins.
Based on a recommendation on MuA a long time ago, I use a [solid brush soap] (https://smile.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B001TNR7VM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1539062737&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=masters+brush+soap) and a [silicone half-egg] (http://musicalhouses.blogspot.com/2015/04/brush-egg-dupe-for-2-daiso-egg-laundry.html) thing I got from Daiso. I fill the soap's cap with water, press my brush in the water to wet it, swirl it around in the soap, and then swirl it around on the egg. Rinse and repeat until there is no more colour in the soap lather and the brush is clean. I find that bushes used with liquid / cream products take a few times to get properly clean while brushes used with powder products are clean after 2 passes, at the most. It's just the nature of the beast, especially if it's a lot of long-wearing, heavy coverage stuff.
After that, I gently press the excess water out, shape the brush head, and leave the brush on a shelf (with the bristles sticking out over the edge) to dry.
If you can get this stuff your brushes will last a long time and you'll probably never run out of cleaner - link
I use: https://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Masters-Brush-Cleaner-Preserver-1oz/dp/B001TNR7VM
Might be cheaper options, I can't see prices on the co.uk site since I'm logged into a US account. Should be a good start though.
I use Cinema Secrets for my brushes, and this paintbrush soap for sponges and deep cleanings https://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B001TNR7VM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474259623&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=brush+soap
They sell that soap at Michael's, too, and there's always coupons available. There's a nice lemony smell, as well
Get some Master's Brush Cleaner and Preserver. Use it to wash the brush, then use some to form a tip before storage. Works really well.
Really? That long? He must be something special! I also appreciate any usage of the word "Huzzah", 50 internet rad points for you!
This isn't really funny but I've spent so much time here
Here's a much needed item if I were to win: Brush cleaner
As you improve in the hobby you will find yourself using bigger brushes. A size 2 or even a 3 with a good point will serve you better than anything 0 or smaller. Even for most detail.
It's not the size of the brush you use, but the size and shape of the point. I found this myself through experience as I started off painting with the smallest brush I could but the problems you run into using a small brush are threefold :
Paint dries before you can get it on the model, leading to clumps of pigment instead of smooth coats.
Small brushes tend to more easily leave brush strokes showing on your model, especially on flat areas.
Models just take longer to paint, less finished models = slower improvement :)
Sounds like you are heading in the right direction though, next up treat yourself to some brush soap for example: General Pencil The Master's Brush Cleaner & Preserver-1oz https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001TNR7VM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UoJoDbK5NEARY
Your brushes will thank you :)
Finally and most importantly, feel free to disregard any advice you may get and just dive in and go your own way. The most important thing about the hobby is to have fun and enjoy it!
Don't use GW brand brushes or tools as they are over-priced. Middle of the road quality for near premium prices. Just get yourself a xacto for trimming and some generic hobby clippers.
For paints you should at least look at vallejo and reaper (way better bottle design). Opinions differ but I think Reaper beats them all aside from metallics where GW are head and shoulders over everyone else. Also THIN YOUR PAINTS AND USE A WET PALLET.
Jokes aside a wet pallet, whether DIY parchment paper or store bought, make blending so much easier for a new painter and is my number one suggestion for those just starting out.
For brushes there is a huge range in price (with GW near the top) and quality (GW near the bottome here). Army painter is my go to for synthetic brushes with Kolinsky being the generally held gold standard sable brushes (sable hair forms a finer point). Pick up a set of army painter's (they also have helpful descriptive names rather than numbers) look after them with this magic stuff (you can probaly get it cheaper elsewhere but it last forever anyway) and then see if you want to upgrade later.