Reddit Reddit reviews General Tools MMD4E Digital Moisture Meter, Water Leak Detector, Moisture Tester, Pin Type, Backlit LCD Display With Audible and Visual High-Medium-Low Moisture Content Alerts, Grays

We found 25 Reddit comments about General Tools MMD4E Digital Moisture Meter, Water Leak Detector, Moisture Tester, Pin Type, Backlit LCD Display With Audible and Visual High-Medium-Low Moisture Content Alerts, Grays. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Tools & Home Improvement
Measuring & Layout
Moisture Meters
Scanners & Testers
General Tools MMD4E Digital Moisture Meter, Water Leak Detector, Moisture Tester, Pin Type, Backlit LCD Display With Audible and Visual High-Medium-Low Moisture Content Alerts, Grays
DETECT MOISTURE- Determine the moisture content of wood and other building materials (like drywall) or check water damaged areas to see if moisture is still presentFIRST STEP IN MOLD PREVENTION - By checking suspicious water stains with a moisture tester around the house, you can determine whether the area is wet (a perfect breeding ground for mold) or has long since driedACCURACY- Stick the stainless steel pins into the surface of what you are measuring in order to get a read-out. Overall measurement range of 5 to 50% for wood and 1. 5 to 33% for building materials as well as low, medium and high moisture tones and colored green, yellow and red LED visual alertsEASY TO READ AND USE- Large 0. 3 in. (8mm) high digits in a backlit LCD display for quick and easy viewing plus a hold function to freeze a reading, auto power off and a low battery indicatorINCLUDES- Extra 0. 3 in. (8mm) stainless steel pins, protective cap that doubles as a calibration checker and a “9V” battery
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25 Reddit comments about General Tools MMD4E Digital Moisture Meter, Water Leak Detector, Moisture Tester, Pin Type, Backlit LCD Display With Audible and Visual High-Medium-Low Moisture Content Alerts, Grays:

u/splitlip_jay · 9 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Get a moisture meter and check for moisture. It doesn’t look like recent water damage. Tough to tell without a moisture reading.

something like this

u/jetermtnpkr · 9 pointsr/homestead

A wood stove is my only source of heat so I have quite a bit of experience in this area. Here's some pointers.

Wear all the safety gear. Chaps, glasses, gloves, hearing protection. I cant stress this enough. I have seen the damage a saw can do to a shin. Not pretty.

Use a grease pencil and a stick cut to length to mark your logs before cutting. If all the pieces are the same size they stack MUCH nicer than if they are random lengths.

Sharpen your chainsaw before you use it. This is the best sharpener I have ever used Every time. Also sharpen it if the tip hits the dirt (keep the tip out of the dirt). A log jack will do wonders for your chain. The chain will stay sharper (again keeping it out of the dirt) and it keeps the end of the log up in the air and will prevent the chain/bar from binding.

Get a moisture meter like [THIS]
(https://smile.amazon.com/General-Tools-MMD4E-Moisture-Digital/dp/B00275F5O2/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1518026049&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=moisture+meter&psc=1) one and make sure you are only burning wood less than 20% moisture content. The meter is especially important if you run short and end up purchasing wood. Wet wood suuuuuucks. Lots of smoke/creosote and not much heat.

Seasoning really begins when the logs are cut and split. Whole logs laying on the ground dont season well.

Last, if you've never dropped a tree on your own, get help. It's more complicated than it looks and you can get hurt badly especially when cutting down trees that are dead or have rotten spots in them.

u/ameades · 5 pointsr/powerwashingporn

Two options:
A wet wood stain.
http://www.davlaurcoatings.com/Products/
Never used before not sure of it's quality.

Or buy a moisture meter and check the levels before you stain. Follow your stains recommendations.
General Tools MMD4E Moisture Meter, Pin Type, Digital LCD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00275F5O2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WjevzbDDWQ12J

u/TheBruceDickenson · 5 pointsr/OffGrid

If you don't have the wood yet you might be in a pinch. I burn wood to heat our house all winter, but definitely not anywhere near -30c. How much wood depends on the type of wood. Each species has a different BTU rating. Some burn hot and fast others are low and slow. I tend to use both. I like Poplar to get the stove warm and Oak to bank it all night.

​

I cut my own wood but if you don't you will need to be careful of sellers saying it is seasoned. A true seasoned piece of wood will be cut and split (generally) for a year. Some sellers will cut and split in the late spring/early summer and try to sell it in the winter. That won't cut it for most guys burning wood. I highly suggest investing into an inexpensive moisture meter. Split a piece of any wood that you are buying and test it. I try to burn at 20% or less.



Also, it might be really helpful for you to get a wall mounted propane heater. They are inexpensive (under $150 at the local big box store or on Amazon). Keep it on a thermostat to kick on if the wood fire goes out. Really helpful on punishing days. If you get the smaller 100 lb tanks you can take them to the filling station and have them filled cheaper than delivery.


Oh and get a carbon monoxide detector. If need to make sure you have enough fresh air in your house to support your wood burning stove and your ability to breathe!


​

Wood Heat Value Comparison Chart

u/chrisbrl88 · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Looks like surfactant bleed from high humidity following painting. Kilz it and repaint it.

You can get an inexpensive moisture meter to put your mind at ease.

u/water889944 · 3 pointsr/woodworking

I am using this one - General Tools MMD4E Digital Moisture Meter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00275F5O2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pPZUCb9ZJ61GB

u/HvyMtlChaos · 3 pointsr/woodstoving

I had not tested it since I don't have a moisture meter (thought they were more than they actually are, thank you for the tip!). I'm going to buy this one and I guess I'll find out in 2 days what its condition is:

https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-MMD4E-Moisture-Digital/dp/B00275F5O2

u/blankey2 · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

something like this:

moisture detector

u/b_doodrow · 2 pointsr/houston

I think this is the one we used. We gave it away when we were done so I can't say for certain. Just make sure it has the probes like this one. They are fairly cheap. We bought a couple of them and compared. The ones that do not have probes show a much lower moisture content which is not ideal

u/free_sex_advice · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

The two things that jump out are the downspout on the right and the windows. It's a bit difficult to tell how the roof goes there, but it looks pretty tricky and then that downspout appears to dump water right on the tricky spot - all of the downspouts need short extensions to get the water away from the corners.

Also, where the end of the gutter is right up against the side of the house. Is the gutter cap well sealed? Does the siding run behind it or did they gutter first then cut the siding around the gutter?

The windows look nice with the wide flat white area around them, but what material is that? How is it flashed to the top of the lower window, how is the upper window flashed to it? It's really difficult to build out a detail like that and make it waterproof.

You'll know more if you can figure out how high up the leak is - yes, the water can very easily move down through the wall. A moisture meter is inexpensive. Read the sheetrock inside just above the baseboard where the water is worst. Read the wall up the side of the window trim on both windows. You may get a clue from that.

It's a bit more money, but you can get Flir 1 for your cell phone - iPhone linked, but there's an Android one too. Take a look at the walls from inside and the ceiling and the side walls of that section. The moisture alone should make for cold spots, but it might be especially obvious on a cold, rainy day. Good general contractors have both moisture meters and Flir 1. Any friend that's a fireman probably has access to a Flir camera. A good home inspector has these tools. I'd offer to help, but I can tell from the architecture that you live nowhere near me.

Please update us later.

u/lovesthewood · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Take the guesswork out of the equation:

Get yourself a moisture meter, e.g. http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-Instruments-MMD4E-Moisture/dp/B00275F5O2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413946225&sr=8-1&keywords=moisture+meter

  • Measure a piece of wood that is dry - has not been out in the elements and has been in your house or dry workshop for months.
  • Measure the wet wood.
  • Bring the wet wood inside
  • Periodically measure the wet wood. When it's close to the dry wood, surface/square it and use for furniture.
u/pyrotek1 · 2 pointsr/woodstoving

firewood moisture meter this a tool or instrument to give you the information you need. We moved in to a new to us house and the fire wood we get has a higher moisture content than I want. We made a wood dryer for the first fuel of the day. Wood dryer detail

You are doing nothing wrong. You simply need more information on what works and what moisture content burns well. A high moisture fuel will sit and not burn until the water has been baked off then start releasing heat.

u/Cant_Spel · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Be sure to check You Tube for proper use. Just like a hand plane, card scrapers can be improperly used resulting in folks dismissing their ability. I flex mine slightly like a "U" shape and pull it towards me (paying attention to the grain so as to not dig it in).
Roamins note on quality of wood below is a good one. Soft wet pine will be difficult no matter what. You might consider purchasing some wood and letting it sit stickered (with spacers) for a while to help air it out. If you want to be completely anal about it you can test moisture content with a moisture meter which measures electrical current between 2 points through wood. http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-MMD4E-Digital-Moisture/dp/B00275F5O2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1321899651&sr=8-1 You’re looking for the wood to stabilize to your environment. Home Depot likely buys bulk from else ware and ships to your area meaning the wood will not only be green (recently cut) but will also be incredibly out of whack with your local humidity. This is why you see crazy warped boards at most big box stores.
Down the road you can look into buying from places with kiln dried and/or stabilized wood. I have the luck of living near a word supplier that ships all over while maintaining a store front for walk ins. Their stuff is great. http://www.woodworkerssource.com/ I suspect most larger cities have similar places (woodcraft being a large multi state business).

u/coletain · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Hit any particularly high spots of glue with a belt sander. No need for the cement if you are doing a wood floor as long as the subfloor is reasonably level. Use whatever underlayment system your flooring calls for, but its usually a felt paper or silicone vapor shield. The underlayment will take care of any minor imperfections in the floor.

Before you put down the flooring, buy a moisture meter and check the subfloor is dried out. The cheap ones are fine for this, you aren't really looking for a specific % you just want to measure every day or so and when the % stops going down you are good.

u/arizona-lad · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I think you have a leak within the wall. You need to verify it, though. Pick up a budget moisture meter: https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-MMD4E-Moisture-High-Medium-Low/dp/B00275F5O2

Then you'll know for sure.

u/permacahill · 1 pointr/woodstoving
u/megamanxoxo · 1 pointr/RealEstate
u/Certain_Concept · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

You may want to buy a mousture sensor.

General Tools MMD4E Moisture Meter, Pin Type, Digital LCD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00275F5O2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mOEvCbX3KNQNX

I have the same ceiling/texture. I have a big water spot from a fixed roof leak. While it was leaking it didnt necessarily feel moist but the meter was a good way to check.

u/compulsivehobbyist · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Hopefully just bad workmanship. Might be worth picking up a moisture meter to verify that you don't have water getting in through the roof/attic

General Tools MMD4E Moisture Meter, Pin Type, Digital LCD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00275F5O2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MQV1Bb6X2HRQY

u/ihitrecord · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

In the basement? Something like this.

In the wood? This.

If your basement is constantly humid, plumb in a dehumidifier. However, in doing that, you may want to wait for it to stabilize and then re-acclimate the wood.

Yeah, sorry, no good news from me.

u/nickstandard · 1 pointr/woodworking
  1. First off, there is a ridiculous science behind this topic, so I would do research as much as possible before takeling this. I learned from the plethora of You Tube videos from well known woodworkers and trial and error.
  2. There are many ways to do it, and this is what I have been doing and it works for me.
  3. Your first question - That all depends on how much $$ you have. For example, I do not have a lot of $, but fortunately, my basement is dryer than most. I live on a slight hill that only gets water during a hurricane (Hurricane Sandy) and my power went out so the sump pump wasn’t working. I have a nice $100 LG dehumidifier down there. Only a quarter of my walls are moisture sealed with kilz ( I built my shop prior to KILZing the walls), so the relative humidity is at constant 40-45%, which according to the chart should give me a MC of about 7-10% which is absolutely perfect in my eyes. And that is proven with a MC meter.

    General Tools MMD4E Moisture Meter, Pin Type, Digital LCD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00275F5O2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_qASta5WqyE9xo

    But this is bad if I get my wood wet (maybe over 25% MC would be considered wet). So I f I get it wet, it stays in my garage until it dips below 20%. Ambient air humidity where i live is (NE USA outside PHILA) about 15%. Once it dips below 20%, I move it into my basement. None of my projects (as of now) will be stored or placed outside. If it was an outdoor project, I would imagine outside is where I would be storing/ working on my of the projects. But since I do indoor work, I move the wood into the basement to be stored at the right time. Then when the MC gets below 10% I generally will work with it, depending on the species and my time table, and whether or not the are paying me (hahaha). Obviously, if I brought it down to the basement to quickly, that’s when problems happen.... but to me, woodworking is more about learning. how to fix your mistakes. So if there was checking or warping, knowing how to fix it, or hide it is crucial. Sometimes hiding a mistake can make the workpiece even better. Bear in mind, that I do not have a big basement so I do not work with big pieces. Big pieces I would imagine are harder to maintain and harder to hide mistakes.

  4. In a perfect world, you would store the wood in the place the workpiece we placed for the rest of its life, but that could be years of storage and it impractical. The general rule of thumb is 1 year for every inch of thickness, but I have gotten them dryer, quicker than this rule and some experts will tell you that this rule is also fubar. If I was working with an expensive species, and do want to take any risks, then I would live by this rule in order to not make the slab go to waste. But I am not confident enough yet to handle that type of project without error, and I don’t have the $ to buy them yet. Generally speaking, once the species it at the proper MC (I would say 5%-8%, it ain’t moving, and you can work with it. I would assume most houses with air conditioning in the summer should be below 10% humidity.

  5. Then there comes a whole other science of finishing, which is an animal in itself, I am in the middle of self teaching. I wouldn’t be a good person to tell you about finishing yet, so don’t ask... but I know if finished correctly, there should be minimal moisture exchange as the right finish should create a wall between the wood and the atmosphere, which will not allow the exchange. I could tell you what I use to prevent this (finish wise) but I do not know what kind of species you are working with nor the RAH of where you are and the RAH of where the project will be. And even if I did, I wouldn’t be a great source.

    I have an ongoing set of playlists on my YouTube that has helped me, one is one wood drying. If I remember led to save the video to this playlist after I watched it, then the good information is stored there...

    Here is the link...

    https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL7Ur9yvX0sMRw1UhH9CYeIcyAhW8pVRHq

    Feel free to check out the rest of the playlists. I am still in an ongoing process of adding to them.

    BTW - you will never get the MC to 0% with standard drying techniques. As long as earth has an atmosphere and there are oceans, there will be MC in wood. this to me seems completely unnecessary and impractical, although I am sure someone will argue with that cause woodworking is very dynamic and full of opinions! Hope this helps!!