Reddit Reddit reviews Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet 3D Printer Build Surface 235mm x 235mm (9.3" x 9.3") with Preapplied Laminated 3M 468MP Adhesive for Creality Ender 3 or CR 20 | Made in The USA

We found 18 Reddit comments about Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet 3D Printer Build Surface 235mm x 235mm (9.3" x 9.3") with Preapplied Laminated 3M 468MP Adhesive for Creality Ender 3 or CR 20 | Made in The USA. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

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Additive Manufacturing Products
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Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet 3D Printer Build Surface 235mm x 235mm (9.3
Made in the USA - Ultem 1000 PEI sheet installs quickly via the laminated adhesive on top of existing flat build platforms (e.g. borosilicate glass)Bubble free application - The 3M 468MP adhesive is already preapplied to the PEI; simply peel back the tape liner for quick adhesion to the bedBuild Surface - PEI is the perfect no prep build surface which is endlessly reusable for multiple prints; clean with isopropypl alcohol between prints (or with acetone on a COLD bed)ABS and PLA filaments (along with many other materials) print directly on to PEI surface without the need for additional adhesives, tapes, or slurryDimensions: 235 x 235mm / PEI thickness: 0.56mm (0.022 inches) / Laminated 3M 468MP adhesive thickness: 0.13mm (0.005 inches) / Fits the Creality Ender 3 or Creality CR 20 perfectly!
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18 Reddit comments about Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet 3D Printer Build Surface 235mm x 235mm (9.3" x 9.3") with Preapplied Laminated 3M 468MP Adhesive for Creality Ender 3 or CR 20 | Made in The USA:

u/Jack_Schittt · 6 pointsr/ender3

Install a sheet of PEI on top of the glass. No messing with glue or hair spray nonsense.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GSJSDWR/ref=nav_timeline_asin?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

u/jvkaiaer · 3 pointsr/ender3

Yes my friend

Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet 3D Printer Build Surface 235mm x 235mm (9.3" x 9.3") with Preapplied Laminated 3M 468MP Adhesive for Creality Ender 3 or CR 20 | Made in The USA
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GSJSDWR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gbsPDbPNKDNM9

Glass Print Bed Borosilicate Glass 3D Printer Glass Print Bed 235x235x3.7mm for Ender 3 DC-01 Glass Print Bed Borosilicate Glass https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JKGNB6W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_T-sPDbX4FQ8EG

u/Shenkoe · 3 pointsr/ender3

If I am understanding correctly, the prints stick everywhere else except the middle. This could be from the heated bed not being completely flat, from either a manufacturer defect, heating the bed can cause it to flex slightly, and also the act of leveling with 4 points will cause stress to the bed and cause it to not be flat.

If you want to resolve the issue there are a few thing you can do. First I recommend getting a glass bed of some kind. I use this: https://www.amazon.com/Glass-Print-Borosilicate-Printer-235x235x3-7mm/dp/B07JKGNB6W/ref=pd_bxgy_328_2/146-3360479-3249561?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07JKGNB6W&pd_rd_r=1be203f4-8159-11e9-8887-9b31b6cb4217&pd_rd_w=QkaU5&pd_rd_wg=lhVMV&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=MJKHHJRB1R0V6D2Q2C61&psc=1&refRID=MJKHHJRB1R0V6D2Q2C61

with this PEI sheet: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GSJSDWR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Second you can do a bed conversion from 4 corners to 3-point leveling. Check this guide by Makeitmakeitmakeit for more info: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3415460

you will need this, made by rrwrex, if you do the conversion: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3193722

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This is a make of my conversion which I have done on 2 Ender 3s and no longer have to level unless I mess with the bed: https://www.thingiverse.com/make:636770

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Also check this guide out here tons of good info: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3574369

u/RiceZiggy · 3 pointsr/ender3

i wish to share my experience with this advice.

I did this. went to lowe's, paid $4 for 2 pieces of 3mm mirror cut to size.

and proceeded to literally fail almost every cheap adhesion technique out there. so if that happens to you, dont be discouraged.

i failed clean glass (no adhesives), failed glue stick, failed hair spray, and finally failed sugar water. cleaned each religiously with 99% isoproyl, everything was fine. 5 point layer test showed perfect layers (https://imgur.com/a/JPZqbks#ueqqWi7 - im talking perfect,), but during an actual print, it would fail due to bed adhesion unless i had an obscene amount of brim/raft to secure things.

decided to head to amazon and pick up a piece of PEI sheet and have never looked back. put it on the mirror tile i was using and boom out of the last 40 or so prints ive not had 1 failed adhesion yet. i picked up the one from gizmo dorks as it already had the adhesive attached to the PEI and install was easy enough (this is the one i chose https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Preapplied-Laminated-Adhesive/dp/B07GSJSDWR/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=pei+sheet&qid=1558833899&s=gateway&sr=8-3 )

so OP, take this story as you will, some people get away with no adhesives, but I could not for the life of me find out why nothing would stick to my cut mirror.

u/qazme · 2 pointsr/ender5

I ended up ordering a generic borosilicate glass bed and applied some GizmoDorks PEI to the top of it. Works excellent and I don't need to use any painters tape or glue stick with it. It was a great upgrade from stock and much easier to level. Haven't decided yet if I want to dump my dial indicator leveling for a BLTouch or equivalent. I might end up doing that though.

u/mx3goose · 2 pointsr/ender3

go to lowes and have a piece of glass cut for about 3 bucks, buy a sheet of PEI (like this one) slap it on the glass and never worry about bed adhesion problems, glue sticks, painters tape or any other stupid bed problems again. You hit print, it prints and sticks, it cools and you pop it off easily with the result of a butter-smooth first layer.

u/ThatBeRutkowski · 2 pointsr/wanhaoi3

What I did was I got a nice thick borosilicate glass plate from amazon, the one with the corners cut off so it fits the bed perfectly without the heated bed bolts interfering. Then I got a sheet of PEI with 3M adhesive on the back. I cleaned the glass with alcohol and then carefully applied the PEI so there weren't any air bubbles.

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This is the glass:

https://smile.amazon.com/Gulfcoast-Robotics-Borosilicate-Duplicator-Printers/dp/B07B2YLWF9/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2640M0KDOPOV&keywords=borosilicate+glass+plate&qid=1555903635&s=gateway&sprefix=borosilicate+glass+pl%2Caps%2C153&sr=8-5

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And this is the kind of PEI:

https://smile.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Preapplied-Laminated-Adhesive/dp/B07GSJSDWR/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=PEI+sheet&qid=1555903728&s=gateway&sr=8-4

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I have gone through a handful of these borosilicate sheets, and have had one or two that were warped. All of them were thinner than the Gulf Coast Robotics one. Theirs is bang on flat and way tougher, hands down the best. When you apply the PEI, make sure you do it very carefully as to not create any bubbles underneath. I started on the center of one edge and slowly applied from one side to the other, peeling the backing off as I went. Press it down from the center out as you lay it down and you shouldn't get any bubbles. Lots of very tiny bubbles are to be expected and work their way out after a while (Im talking really tiny). As for attaching the glass to the bed, a set of four binder clips are perfect. Don't bother with the thermal pads some people suggest, they make it a pain to remove the glass in between prints and don't really do anything.

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This is a great way to have a removable build surface that everything sticks to. I have since moved up to a Prusa MK3, so I get to enjoy the luxury of the magnetic PEI build plate. You could get a similar thing going, BuildTak sells a magnetic build surface that you apply to the heated bed. The drawback of this is that if your bed is warped at all, the magnetic sheet does nothing to correct it. The thick glass on the other hand makes everything nice and flat.

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I should add that to put the glass sheet on, you will have to move your z endstop switch down. There are several mounting holes on the printer to do this already so its really not that hard, you just have to experiment. The glass is about 4mm thick so you have to adjust for it.

u/IWasTheFirstKlund · 2 pointsr/Boardgamedeals

Second - some Amazon links for the upgrade pieces I mention:

Springs - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SDDHYN4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bowden Tube - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079P92HN9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Couplings - https://smile.amazon.com/Dorhea-Straight-Pneumatic-Fittings-Accessories/dp/B07NSRCH2W/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=3d+printer+fitting&qid=1574436375&sr=8-15

Extruder - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079JZ374W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

PEI Sheet - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GSJSDWR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Stepper Motor Dampeners - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C7FRLNX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bootloader Flashing Kit - https://smile.amazon.com/Gulfcoast-Robotics-Bootloader-Flashing-Duplicator/dp/B07S5BBLKM/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=arduino+uno+ender+3+kit&qid=1574436535&s=industrial&sr=1-3

Note that I didn't buy this flashing kit, but this one seems to have everything you need to get a bootloader onboard the Ender. What happens is you go through a bunch of steps to attach this so the printer and then put a bootloader onto the Ender 3 board. You only have to do that one time, then you can update the firmware as often as you want - typically via a USB cable. I have Octoprint installed, so I can flash my firmware on my basement printers from my upstairs computer using wifi. Super easy and handy.

u/DinnerMilk · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I would recommend Gizmo Dorks on Amazon, it's a bit more expensive than others but it's pretty thick at 0.56mm and quite durable.

It can be purchased cheaper from other vendors, but those are much thinner pieces at 0.1mm, which I imagine wouldn't last as long. Another perk of PEI is if it gets scratched or ends up with surface defects, you can sand them out and it's good as new. Thicker sheets will obviously handle this better as there is more material.

u/zheke91 · 1 pointr/ender3

Hey I also new on this, got my printer a month ago, I was super exited as everyone here when receive their printer, I read a LOT while waiting for the printer, so I heard that the stock bed springs are crappy, so I ordered this ones FYSETC Bed springs, also ordered the Aluminium Extruder feeder, and read about the leveling, the paper sheath method, which I think you should already heard about, I did it at the first time the printer gave me a nearly perfect first print (demo dog) , after a few prints and on my third print I came home just to find a mess on my printer, so I did my research again, find out it was bed adhesion, and find out that the best way was glass bed + PEI sheet was the best option, while waiting to arrive I tried to clean the stock bed sheet with mineral spirits (did have rubbing alcohol) but it worsened the adhesion, so I used one adhesion sticker that comes with the overture filament, and again flawless adhesion, at least for the first 4 prints, then again the frustration, I tried some glue stick and worked but it leaves a mess on your print so I decided to try painters tape directly onto the aluminum bed (which lucky for me it is perfectly flat) this is the best adhesion I have tried, problem is also makes a mess with the down face of the print, Finally mi Gass-PEI arrived, (3 days ago), it has a great adhesion but is not perfect, also you have to raise the Z limit switch to compensate the 5~ mm of Glass-PEI, find out that it isn't perfectly flat it has a good adhesion and leaves a very smooth down face, but at some section it does't sticks well and leaves artifacts on the down face, I'm currently working to fix this.

Sorry for the long post, need to talk about my frustration and let you know you are not alone on this, once you manage to make a good print is very satisfying, I have a PETG filament waiting to be used but I don't think is a great idea to try it until a learn more about 3D printing and the Ender.

u/thiemj3332 · 1 pointr/ender3

I recommend a PEI sheet

Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet 3D Printer Build Surface 235mm x 235mm (9.3" x 9.3") with Preapplied Laminated 3M 468MP Adhesive for Creality Ender 3 or CR 20 | Made in The USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GSJSDWR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FVfVCb8Q5VK3N

u/imawsm_ · 1 pointr/ender3

The problem is that people still refer to information from 10 years ago in regards to 3d printing and wont let go of it. Hairspray and glue stick are one of those ideas that needs to be buried.

Buy some PEI
https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Preapplied-Laminated-Adhesive/dp/B07GSJSDWR/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=pei&qid=1574003872&sr=8-5
and apply this to your glass. Then just wipe it with isopropyl once and a while.

Then the only time you will use gluestick is when you want less adhesion. To give you an idea, I can turn on my heated bed and get old prints to stick again.

u/bigdrock44 · 1 pointr/ender3

I struggled with adhesion for the first couple weeks of printing. Then I swapped my stock bed for a glass + PEI combo. Got the flatness of the glass + the adhesion of the PEI. Once the plate cools down a few degrees, the parts come right off. No need for sticky hairspray to get things to stick, and no need to put the bed in the freezer to get things to unstick. Best upgrade I’ve made on my ender 3 (~$30 total). Always wipe down with isopropyl alcohol in between prints for best adhesion.

Tip: I also recommend gently wet sanding the PEI. Helps with adhesion and creates a very nice matte finish on the first layer.

Glass Bed:
Nearly Natural 4855 35in.... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JKGNB6W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

PEI:
Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GSJSDWR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/double_painbow · 1 pointr/ender3

I bought a regular glass bed off amazon and really liked that but the textured surface started to fail after a while and I didn't like having to clean off adhesives or hairspray. I got this PEI build surface from amazon and stuck that on top of it. The ender 3 pro's magnetic bed base is enough to keep the glass in place and the PEI sheet has adhesive on the bottom of it so I don't need to use the binder clips like I thought I would have to at first. It all just stays in place without shifting and I have access to the full print bed. The glass is still on there to correct a warp in the base bed and the PEI is honestly such an upgrade from glass. Things stick with no effort and come off easily at the end, except PETG which sticks like nobody's business and is harder to remove.

u/VietOne · 1 pointr/ender5

Mine came with 3m already on the backing so I just had to carefully apply it to the glass.

Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GSJSDWR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/zombiheiler · 1 pointr/PrintedMinis

Its a great printer. Upgrade your springs and get an aluminum extruder. Those two things were so cheap, but definitely made a difference for me. I use a glass bed with a PEI sheet and have been very happy with it. I use eSun PLA Pro for my minis. Check out Tomb of 3d Printed Horros for their cura profiles and tips!

u/mattk404 · 0 pointsr/ender3

Some other things I'd recommend


TL-Smoothers https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WG3SZQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I know you already upgraded the extruder assembly but this duel geared version is nice: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SY745CF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
PEI Bed surface (has to date been the best upgrade): https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GSJSDWR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and if you don't have a glass: https://smile.amazon.com/Creality-Ender-Glass-Upgraded-235x235x4mm/dp/B07RD6D2ZQ/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=creality+glass&qid=1571456745&sr=8-5


I'd recommend applying the pei in the smooth side of the glass that way you can flip it over to have the textured side if you want.