Reddit reviews Gorilla 2 Part Epoxy, 5 Minute Set, .85 Ounce Syringe, Clear, (Pack of 1)

Easiest way to fix it. Go to wal-mart or target and buy this or order it from amazon. clean the edges and follow the directions. works perfectly. I did this for 3 of my pieces that broke. It's very clean and will be as good as new. Make sure you don't overapply it so that it oozes out inside. Might be bad for the downstem. It's the cheapest and easiest way to do it. Best of luck! toke on

Edit: Epoxy does not melt or dissolve by acetone so you can clean it with acetone after fixing it too! Source
>There are two broad classes of plastics, thermosets and thermoplastics. A thermoplastic can readily be dissolved or melted, while a thermoset cures and changes. Once cured, it forms a tough, crosslinked network which resists solvents and will degrade instead of melting. Epoxy is a thermoset. The advice to trim or slice it off is good. Solvents like acetone or whatever, unless extremely powerful and dangerous, will have little effect on a cured epoxy. Things that easily swell and dissolve epoxies will do the same with rubber or plastic gloves or portions of your anatomy.

A dresser: $350

A circular saw: $100

Gorilla glue: $5

A face-cord of firewood: maybe $100 delivered, unless you have a chainsaw, in which case probably free.

Brutally ripping off your customers: priceless

Two part epoxy does the trick!

This is what I use:

https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Epoxy-Minute-ounce-Syringe/dp/B001Z3C3AG/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1BBHFWDACZ0G9&keywords=two%2Bpart%2Bepoxy&qid=1564781122&s=gateway&sprefix=two%2Bpart%2Bepo%2Caps%2C202&sr=8-4&th=1

this was the epoxy we tried, this is another kind we have on-hand that is just too unwieldy/thick to do a job like this.

Is this the kind you're referring to that does work? I never really tried it, thinking it would be similar in effect to the epoxy glue. There's just so much torsion on that location, I worry about how well it would hold.

I should also mention that this is a college help desk and we provide our services 100% free of charge--the only thing the students pay is for the actual cost of parts. It's all about getting them back up and running as economically as possible, since most of the students are broke and just want it back to a functional level so they can write papers, skype, and facebook again. So while negative goodwill (badwill?) is something I'd like to avoid, it's not like we're worried about losing profit or anything as a result.

I made one but I decided that I was going to go balls deep and try one of the most difficult designed mau5 heads out, the disco head. Long story short it cost me about ~$300 to make, not counting 2 others that I messed up on.

Materials:

-Head

-Eyes

-Head Mount

-Mouth Mesh

-[2] Led lights for coloring the eyes

-Superglue for mouth

-[2] Plastic glue for Headmount

-About [6-10] Rhine stone glue bottles

-[3] bags of Rhinestones

-Foam Ear material ---> With Ear template

-Washers -[4] Threaded Rods -Wing nuts

-Chrome Spray paint

-Lastly, Insulation Strips [White]

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Stuff I had: Dremel, stubbornness, no life, sharpies, too much free time.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Use any of the above tuts to get the general idea.

The template for the ears, (mine are huge).

Once the mouth is cut and you accounted for the eyes (pop the eyes in half and trace them on.)

Spray paint the whole head chrome, in light mist layers. The more layers the smoother the finish.

Once that's done, enjoy the 90+ hours of putting each rhinestone on, one by one.

Profit.

depending on how rough it feels I would suggest starting with an 80g or 100g and then finishing with 120g and 220g. You can skip the first one if it is not super rough. Get one of those sanding sponges with the different angles on them. That will be easier on you hand than just sand paper. Becasue of the shape you'll want something that you can wipe or spray on. Use 4-5 thin coats. The easiest/cheapest option would be a wipe on poly or even better an Aerosol Spar Urethane. EDIT Also, sand lightly in between coats with 220 or higher. This helps the next coat stick.

You might also consider trying to fix a few of those larger cracks by filling them in with a two part epoxy

Good luck! It will be a nice surprise for her when she returns.

lead weights

glue

Alternatively, you can just buy the epoxy and glue the toaster to the table.

Gorilla 2-part Epoxy Clear

I guess you can use Super Glue if you are not comfortable with epoxy. Maybe better would be the gel type of super glue. It's just that super glue by nature is not as sturdy when it comes to "shock" strains like should it get dropped or of you slam the detolf door hard enough. Just make sure the superglue is well and dry before putting it in the detolf case as superglue has a tendency to fog up glass.

Super Glue will either frost look or not glue to painted points.

I use http://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Glue-4200101-Epoxy/dp/B001Z3C3AG put a dot of glue -- enough to not smoosh out then wrap a rubber band the head. Let it set for how ever long the written directions say for. Thats how we glue parts on GKs but minus drilling a hole and putting a pin joint to glue it steady, but I don't think its necessary at the moment.

I've had a few pairs of shoes do this to me, including a pair of platform Demonias. I found that epoxy (this stuff) worked really well to keep the sole on. When mine did it, only the sole came off, and the bottom part of the place where you put your foot stayed whole. Hopefully yours didn't rip or anything. If they did, I don't think epoxy will help without creating uncomfortable bumps under your feet. Good luck!

Use an epoxy that can withstand high temperatures. i. e. Gorrila Glue Epoxy

This sounds like you only had one problem - you don't have epoxy - you should always have, if anything else, a little dual squeeze tube of locktite (or any) two part oil resin based epoxy. This is basically a pantry item, like (quality) duct tape or super glue

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001Z3C3AG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487817131&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=epoxy

Would this work?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001Z3C3AG/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_bHLAlv_c_x_1_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=RRZQ030G27SHF15P8SYW&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=0a3c6581-feb2-509a-bd74-91d7d12a5759&pf_rd_i=256244011

Some sort of epoxy might work.

https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-4200101-Epoxy-85-oz-Clear/dp/B001Z3C3AG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525929780&sr=8-3&keywords=plastic+epoxy

Some kind of epoxy maybe, but when it comes to gluing things, the materials involved are really important.

Superglue wouldn't hold that.

Your best bets are either 5 minute epoxy, built up as a layer on the inside of the door in order to make the join stronger, or Plastic Weld which will melt the two parts back together but may discolor the clear and painted plastic.

• https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Epoxy-Minute-ounce-Syringe/dp/B001Z3C3AG
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Plastruct-Plastic-Weld-applicator-Bottle/dp/B00FDFWJD8
  
  If you choose to go with the Plastic Weld, you need to be careful as it melts the plastic a bit in order to weld the two parts together. If you let it run it will melt and discolor parts you might not want it to. You should pour just a tiny bit into the cap of the bottle and then use a small natural bristle paintbrush to brush the edges of the parts with the solvent, let them sit for a few seconds and then push them together and hold them for 5 seconds until they are bonded, and then if necessary brush a little more Plastic Weld over the joint to help seal the pieces together.

Would something like this do the trick? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001Z3C3AG

like this? https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Epoxy-85-oz-Clear/dp/B001Z3C3AG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482113709&sr=8-1&keywords=two+part+epoxy

I'm not sure what he used. There's a ton of them out there. You could try the Gorilla Epoxy for example.

they basically used the equivalent of this on a priceless ancient Egyptian artifact.

https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Epoxy-Minute-ounce-Syringe/dp/B001Z3C3AG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541767455&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=gorilla+glue+5+minute+epoxy

Its kinda expensive so i dont recommend for large terrain. But it dries crystal clear. Adding a drop of paint will give it more than enougj color and make it much easier to pour

Epoxy gorilla glue, https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Epoxy-Minute-ounce-Syringe/dp/B001Z3C3AG

I waited 24 hours after application to move her.

this

This one stupid trick will actually protect you against all exploits spread by USB devices.

I'll definitely make a post and show it off once I'm done, I think it's going to look pretty badass if it turns out like I'm hoping.

Also just went ahead and ordered a tube of this...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001Z3C3AG

Not sure I trust the name as much as JB Weld or Loctite, but it supposedly dries crystal clear and I like the idea of that.

Hmm... yeah it sounds like a dowel won't work. The only other thing I know of that would fill a cavity, bond two surfaces, and hold a screw would be epoxy. Depending on the situation, you may need to do this in steps, and I would definitely pre-drill for the screw, but not sure how to do that if you don't have a drill. I've personally never used epoxy, but something similar to this should work for you:

https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Epoxy-85-oz-Clear/dp/B001Z3C3AG

You might be able to find a video or other tutorial showing the use of epoxy on furniture repairs.