Reddit reviews Gyokucho Razorsaw Joinery Saw for Fine Work
We found 9 Reddit comments about Gyokucho Razorsaw Joinery Saw for Fine Work. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
This saw is highly recommended for dovetail cuts in material up to 1-1/2” thickBlade length is 9-1/2”Overall length is 23˝0.012˝ thick bladeRigid spline and has impulse hardened teeth for extended wear
It’s called a Dozuki saw. Based on his $40 price tag it’s orobably this one:
Gyokucho 372 Razor Saw Dotsuki Takebiki Saw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006JW19U8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Oqk0AbCGAH5QP
https://www.amazon.com/Gyokucho-372-Razor-Dotsuki-Takebiki/dp/B006JW19U8/ref=br_lf_m_943yno4xkzybomh_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&s=hi
I'd like to throw this in to contention for your dovetail saw consideration.
Japanese saws are great fun.
$42 Good for dovetails and fine work: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006JW19U8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$37 Good for cutting up pretty much everything:
https://www.amazon.com/Ryoba-Double-Razor-Hardwoods-Woodworker/dp/B00BSQU9UQ/ref=pd_bxgy_469_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00BSQU9UQ&pd_rd_r=V3Z49PY3ZZA2EPHVWECV&pd_rd_w=AqtIY&pd_rd_wg=C155B&psc=1&refRID=V3Z49PY3ZZA2EPHVWECV
This guys list is pretty much what I was going to say.
So for some recommendations:
I've restored an antique 1930s No 5. Bought it for 45, and it is best for those on a budget. Any pre WWII Stanley just needs some light restoration work and a reworking of the blade and it will do 20x better than a harbor freight plane and roughly same as modern Stanley sweethearts at 1/3 the cost. It may not be as good as woodriver or lie Nielsen, but it's a 1/4 or 1/6 the cost respectively.
Paul sellers recommends Aldi Chisels, I got Narex instead for an additional $20. I love them, and will only upgrade out of them once I get enough money to go for some veritas or lie Nielsen. I got a set of 4 with imperial measurements for $60ish. I'd put any extra money into sharpening systems than upgrading them.
I bought David Barron dovetail guides and the Japanese pull saws he reccomends. Gyokucho 372 Razor Saw Dotsuki Takebiki Saw. Look at Amazon for the narex chisels I reccomend and the 'people who bought this also bought' section and you'll find it easily. While there you can find some leather for stropping and the green compound you need with it. Also while looking at these, you'll see a reccomendations for the Stanley disposable knife and the replacement blades. This is what Paul sellers recommends, and it works well. Stays ridiculously sharp, and can be rehoned with little effort and the blade cheaply replaced once it becomes to much work top get the thing sharp. Cutting layout lines is much more precise and helps prevent tearout. I bought narex marking knife and love it. I don't mind trying to hone it every so often. Ditto the scratch awl.
Basically took around the Amazon other bought recommendations and you'll find a bunch of fairly cheap quality things to get you up and running.
Japanese pull saw
https://www.amazon.com/Gyokucho-372-Razor-Dotsuki-Takebiki/dp/B006JW19U8
Combination square
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Tools-46-222-Combination-Square/dp/B002YCHF2I/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1511492947&sr=8-4&keywords=adjustable+combination+square
tape measure
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-33-279-English-Tape-Inch/dp/B002V0M8D4/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1511492992&sr=8-6&keywords=tape+measure
24" level
https://www.amazon.com/Tools-Magnetic-I-beam-24-Inch-1801091/dp/B005XUHFI2/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1511493020&sr=1-5&keywords=24%22+level
clamps(quick and pipe) Irwin, harbor freight, etc
marking knife
https://www.amazon.com/Narex-Striking-Marking-Hardened-822301/dp/B01N4HZERP/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1511493110&sr=1-7&keywords=marking+knife
That's certainly an interesting issue. I'd say get a japanese dovetail saw and maybe one of these. Start a straight and plum cut with the saw that has a spine and then finish with the fine tooth side of the second pull saw. Japanese saws are miles ahead of any western style saws. Highly recommended.
When you are cutting with the handsaw: try starting at the corner of your top side right on the waste side edge of your pencil line, and get a straight saw kerf along that line on the top side. Then work your way down the other side, keeping the blade in the kerf you made on the top side.
If you aren't using a backsaw I suggest you try one. The back keeps the saw stiff when you cut. The 2 common types of backsaws are western or japanese. I recommend this one as a cheap good quality dovetail saw.
A good thing to remember is that japanese saws have no set to them so they will tend to not drift so much (set in the teeth makes a kerf slightly wider than your blade, and if they are not set properly they can cause problems,) and they also are filed so it cuts when you pull, not when you push.
Gyokucho 372 Razor Saw Dotsuki Takebiki Saw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006JW19U8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9JaZzb5AY468Q