Reddit Reddit reviews Hakko FX888D-23BY Digital Soldering Station FX-888D FX-888 (blue & yellow)

We found 119 Reddit comments about Hakko FX888D-23BY Digital Soldering Station FX-888D FX-888 (blue & yellow). Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

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Hakko FX888D-23BY Digital Soldering Station FX-888D FX-888 (blue & yellow)
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119 Reddit comments about Hakko FX888D-23BY Digital Soldering Station FX-888D FX-888 (blue & yellow):

u/stratoscope · 18 pointsr/amateurradio

You may have heard the old saying:

>The road to success is through experience.
>The road to experience is through failure.

It sounds like you have already achieved some failure, so this means you are well on your way on the road to success!

Let me add another old saying that I just made up:

>Good technique may overcome a bad soldering iron.
>A great soldering iron will never overcome bad technique.

You didn't mention what kind of iron and what kind of solder you are using now. But if you are getting cold joints, that is more likely a sign of bad technique rather than the wrong iron.

Cold joints happen when you heat the solder instead of heating the work material. The hot solder hits the cold metal and freezes in place instead of flowing onto the hot metal.

You need to heat the work material itself first. If it's a through-hole component, then after you turn the board upside down, touch the iron to both the component's wire lead and the board's pad. Only after both of those heat up do you apply the rosin core solder to melt onto and into them. Then you will have a beautiful shiny solder joint.

This does take some finesse and attention to timing. So I would do this Heathkit style. The Heathkits I bought when I was a teenager always came with clear instructions on how to solder, and most importantly, some extra pieces to practice with. I learned to get the technique down on those before tackling the kit itself. So practice on scrap material until you have it down.

Of course a good iron and good solder will help. If you're using lead-free solder, I might suggest a traditional lead-tin solder instead, as it is easier to work with.

For an iron, you didn't mention what you're using now, or what your budget might be. If something around $100 works for you, you can't go wrong with the Hakko FX888D. You might want some extra tips of various sizes too.

Desoldering is an art to itself. Do you have some desoldering braid? I used to use the "soldapullit" suction pumps and similar things, but the braid always gave me better results. It comes in different widths so you can pick one that fits the work you're doing.

I hope these notes are helpful. Holler back with any questions, and happy soldering!

u/thrilleratplay · 14 pointsr/thinkpad

I know. That was the first thing I thought. I bought two kits for my x220 and x230, I screwed up royally the first attempt and wound up needing to use the second set of items.

Before you start, the equipment you will need:

  • a precision screwdriver kit. This is what I use
  • Exacto knife
  • Dremel/pliers/sandpaper to make room for the LCD.
  • canned air to clean up the plastic and metal shavings from dremel/pliers/sandpaper
  • as /u/Bredius88 already mentioned, flux. I used liquid flux. If you use liquid flux you will also need rubbing alcohol and qtips to clean up.
  • desolder pump
  • magnifying lens of some sort. I used this which was good enough and could also keep my glasses on.
  • kapton tape. (1/4" width or less)
  • If it has been a decade since you last soldered or have shaky hands, or both in my case, I strongly suggest buying very thin solder and, if possible, a quality soldering iron like a Hakko FX888D. These were suggested by the EEVblog soldering tutorial made the second time around far easier.

    A few words of "wisdom"

  • Take your time and do not rush. It is incredibly easy to miss things in the installation guide.
  • DO NOT FORCE ANYTHING. If the LCD screen does not lay flush with the screw holes or the bezel is not clipping, you need to remove more material from the case/bezel
  • Do not be stingy with the flux
  • Do not over heat your soldering iron
  • The sense wire looks like it is copper, but that is just the film on it. Gently scrape it with the exacto knife to reveal the wire in side. It will not solder with this film on it
  • For each step, tape the piece in place before soldering then gently remove the tape. This was the only way I could solder the sense wire because it is so thin and light
  • The eDP cable is very fragile. Do not keep plugging/unplugging it. If you do need ot unplug it (like after testing), only unplug the side from the board and keep pressure on the board when doing so as not to wreak your solder joints
  • When everything has been soldered in place, test it before putting everything back together

    Also, on the V5, I used the old installation guide and the big difference is that the power is connected to the far left under the fuse marked "P". In the picture your finger is kind of covering it.

    EDIT: Anyone trying to justify spending ~$125US on a good soldering iron and solder just remember that replacing the motherboard will cost you about the same and will not be as useful a decade from now.
u/KosherBeefCake · 11 pointsr/AskElectronics

I’d recommend you get a soldering station instead; something similar to this: Soldering station

u/Raider1284 · 10 pointsr/Multicopter

Grab a good hakko or weller soldering station and you should be set for years! They make pretty damn good clones of these as well for much cheaper if you want to save a few bucks.

u/Mastrofski · 9 pointsr/AskElectronics

The Hakko FX-888D. It's pushing your budget a little bit(you're going to want to get new tips at some point), but I've used them in personal, educational, and professional environments. Really a solid iron for what you pay.

u/CantFoolTheCity · 8 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I bought this one about a year and a half ago and don't think I'll ever need another one. Going from cheap soldering irons to this one was unbelievable.

u/toughduck53 · 8 pointsr/guitarpedals

a fuzz face is one of the simplest circuits out there. Its just a darlington pair of transistors with an emiter feedback adjustable bias on Q1.

Its literally just 11 parts.

A fuzz face is also one of those pedals where you can make an identical pedal to those 800$+ nkt275 sunface for less than 50$, with even some of the more "mystic-magic-mojo-bullshit" transistors its still going to be dead cheap to build.

Also, heres a little copy paste i made for people looking to start soldering and what tools you should pick up, and what you dont need.

Yes that will work absolutely fine, but as someone who does a lot of soldering there are a few other things I would say.

if you don't plan on doing much soldering in the future and it's more of a one time thing, there's really no reason to get anything bore expensive than this. I spend easily 60 hours of solid soldering on the earlier version of this (same thing just without the leds) and I only ever replaced it because the tips were getting worn out (although you can replace the tips for cheap) and because I thought I deserved a more solid iron considering how much soldering I do.

if you do plan on doing lots of soldering in the future then I would recommend getting something other than a weller, they're honestly just one of those things that for years have been the industry standard but honestly have gone down hill. I've used a dozen different wellers, some old some new, some cheap some costing 300$ but none of them are really good. I, along with almost everyone in electronic repair industry like Luis Rossmann recommend a brang called hakko. I use atd absolutely love the hakko fx888d. It's really honestly just magic. It heats up to 700+ in under 30 seconds, with a live temperature readout (my old weller would take close to 15 minutes), atd the tips are really just magic, they just don't get corroded at all like every other brand I've used.

It's also worth mentioning for anyone new to soldering that the type of solder used makes a world of difference. What your going to want in rosin core, leaded solder (preferably 63/37 but 60/40 will work too). You want rosin core because it makes it a ton easier to not have to worry about flux, atd unless your doing really tiny electronic you won't need flux beyond the rosin core. You want leaded solder for a few reasons. First off, it melts at a way lower temperature (leaded solder melts at about 360f ish where lead free is closer to 460-480f, but saying that that's not at all the temps you wound use to actually solder at, it ranges from 400 - 700f depending on the application ). Leaded also has a way better surface tension, and melts more evenly, all this really just adds up to making it 100 times easier to work with, ESPECIALLY if you need to desolder anything.

u/1ManGnarmy · 7 pointsr/audioengineering

Practice is everything. I could barely solder a cable but decided I wanted to start building up a few preamps from kits.

A solid, variable temp iron like this Hakko, some mounted alligator clamps and a magnifier are all solid investments.

But most importantly, practice. Go find some old battery operated toys or keyboards and practice desoldering and resoldering on a pcb is a great way to learn to steady your hand. If you want to learn some basics of circuit design, maybe tackle a GroupDIY project like a G-SSL comp or similar (plus you'll have a bomb-ass compressor).

u/DR650SE · 6 pointsr/soldering

100% the
Hakko FX888D-23BY

It's what was suggested to me when I asked the same question here, and I honestly love it.

u/jmblock2 · 6 pointsr/santashelpers

Has he applied for any jobs yet? I was given one of those leather pads with paper inside and a holder for resumes (something like this) except it was from my undergrad university with their emblem. Definitely gives you some confidence for interviews and recruiting sessions. Also you can get him some nice resume paper to go with it. That lasted me for years.

I also enjoyed having one or two of these demotivational posters in my room. Depends on his humor and if he has barren walls like I did.

If you know more details about which raspberry pi he has, you could get some shield extensions. These are boards that expand its capabilities. There are also newer boards with better specs. Also with two boards you can of course make them talk to each other ;)

Depends on his area of interest and your budget, but you could get him some kind of [introductory FPGA kit] ( or DE0-Nano.

Tools... so many tools he might be interested in. USB logic analyzers are so cheap these days and go well with hobby boards. Again not sure your budget, so you can go all sorts of ranges here (Open Workbench Logic Sniffer or scanaplus or Saleae Logic 8 or a china clone of Saleae Logic 8). Saleae or the knockoff I think are the better options for the software compatibility. He may be in need of a soldering iron or a multimeter.

Something else unique, you could get him a "gift card" (they don't really sell them) or an IOU to a PCB printing service. Ask him to design his own board and you'll pay $X of the service. You'll want to make sure he knows the price structure on the website because they charge per square inch and it depends on his design how many layers he may need. He makes the schematic and they will print some circuit boards for him. They won't mount the parts, just do the schematic and he would have to hand solder the components.

If he likes old videogames you could get him some old school USB controllers and tell him to install lakka on his rasberry pi, or just get him a new Raspberry Pi3 to dedicate it as an old-school console emulator. It is quite impressive how many consoles they have emulated.

And back to more tools... more micro screwdriver bits than you would actually need. You can get him a starter pack of resistors, capacitors, and other assorted electronics sparkfun. There are also so many buttons, switches, LED screen displays, etc. that he probably wouldn't want to buy on his own. Maybe you could get a container with an assortment of circuit components (resistors, capacitors, transistors, and other sensors). Careful! This can add up real quick. All types of sensors exist... ultrasonic rangefinder, stress, photocell, temperature, etc. etc. endless!.

u/jeffro422 · 6 pointsr/rccars

I would buy the $20 Weller at Home Depot. Works well, I've soldered maybe 6 or 7 deans connectors and a few traxxas connectors with no issue. Or pony up and buy the Hakko.

u/AvailableStop0 · 6 pointsr/arduino

I gotta disagree with this one... Don't bother screwing around, just buy a Hakko 888D.

u/notalexlane · 6 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

No worries man,


--keyboard parts--

Plate, PCB and case





Soldering Iron



--build guides--

How to build a 60%

How to use QMK firmware

How to flash your keyboard


If you are still needing more help or guidance, shoot me a PM.

u/akelis · 5 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I would consider the Hakko FX-888 a good entry-level soldering station. It's great for home usage. The cheapie soldering irons rarely have good temperature control -- so one solder joint will be just fine, the next will be way too hot, and the third will be a cold-solder joint.

If you can find a stable iron -- and that's a huge if, in my experience -- you'll do just fine, regardless of price.

This is something worth spending a little bit on to get something decent. You can play the soldering iron lottery, and you might get lucky, but it might also cost you a lot of time, frustration, and ruined projects.

I'm assuming you're new to soldering things -- consider taking a look at this guy's series on soldering:
Part 1 covers equipment, part 2 covers technique, and part 3 covers surface-mount work. Those should be sufficient for you to get off the ground and running on home projects. :)

u/Imlulse · 5 pointsr/headphones

Gonna need something else after you use those though...

u/ListenBeforeSpeaking · 5 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I am a fan of the Weller WESD51

The Hakko FX888D is also very popular.

Both companies have parts that are widely available.

u/kaybeerry · 5 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Is Preonic worth the investment?

I have a Planck rather than a Preonic but OLKB designs sturdy and reliable boards that are also very interesting.

I honestly think the Planck is like twitter. Having a very low word (key) count makes people more creative in how they express themselves. The Preonic is more like tumbler where more things can be done more easily.

Moving keys to other layers is fine due to the extra thumbable keys on the bottom row. The Preonic doesn't require as many layers because it has so many more keys, so the extra thumb keys aren't really necessary.

That said, it's a nice compromise.

Is it a good build for a beginner?

It's the same difficulty as any other keyboard build that has PCB components soldered on. All you have to do is add switches and through-hole solder them. It's definitely a fine way to learn to solder as long as you follow a few rules.

Most keyboard kits come this way with the exception of those like the Lets Split which you have to solder diodes and a promicro onto also.

The only thing More difficult is getting a PCB printed and buying diodes, resisters, and chips from DigiKey and then using a heat gun or oven to cook all the little things on.

What is a good soldering station?

Cheap ones will work fine. People around here seem to like the Hakko 888d which is what I use. The cheaper ones like this will also work fine. The extra $80 doesn't change much about how you work. Turn on the iron, heat stuff, sponge occasionally, don't touch it to your skin, then put it away safely.

Soldering rules for beginners

  1. Don't hold the heat on any part for more than 5 seconds. If it starts looking like a mess, go solder other parts and let things cool off before coming back to fix it. Don't freak out about the speed, just be deliberate and have things ready before you start applying heat
  2. Use leaded solder because it's much easier to melt and manipulate
  3. Use rosin core, no clean solder so you don't have to futz around with flux or flux cleaner
  4. Put the iron down when you're not using it. It is shaped like a pencil and we humans like to tuck those between fingers while manipulating things. Do not do this.

    There are a lot of little things to do to maximize soldering experience. You'll figure these out over time. I thing this short list is enough to keep your board intact and blood in your body.
u/JavaGiant865 · 5 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

This is highly recommended: Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37 .020 1 lb. Spool

And if you plan more than one project this soldering iron is great: Hakko FX888D-23BY Digital Soldering Station FX-888D FX-888 (blue & yellow)

u/Insanereindeer · 5 pointsr/AskEngineers

Doesn't have a heat gun. Just buy a small heat gun separate if you want one.

Budget one.


You listed a lot of garbage chinese garbage. They may last years. They may die directly out of warranty.

As for all the other items, you should buy whatever you feel you need to be safe. A fire extinguisher is a must for any residence but soldering probably isn't going to be the reason a fire is started.


I have a $30 30W Weller that I've been using for YEARS. I've left it on for hours accidentally. I've only replaced the tip once in the years I've owned it.

u/ipha · 5 pointsr/ZReviews

I have a Hakko FX888D and it's great. Might be overkill depending on your uses though.

EDIT: Whatever you get, make sure it's temperature controlled though.
EDIT2: Lead free solder is garbage. Get some proper lead rosin core solder.

u/dollartacos · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Got a soldering iron for Christmas and dove right in. This is my third 60% build, and by far my favorite.


u/Camo5 · 4 pointsr/battlebots

get yourself a quality soldering station because temperature control is actually extremely useful. There are cheaper alternatives to the hakko f888 but everywhere i've been this particular station eventually finds its way into every electronics room.

u/murdurturtle · 4 pointsr/raspberry_pi

First.. what soldering iron are you using? Looks like it's not getting hot enough and the solder isn't getting up to temperature.

If you plan on soldering more maybe invest in something like this.. I've been using one for years and it's a wonderful soldering station. The cheapo walmart irons are usually not good at all.. even now being much better at soldering I still can't use one of those.

This is also a good starter setup.

u/beachbuminthesun · 4 pointsr/guitarpedals

Essentially, yes - they're probably too cheap.

If you want good cables, you've got to pay up.

Best Solderless:

Or learn how to solder.

Buy this best soldering iron:

With this:

And this:

Money well spent. Patch cables will cost you about $4-$5 to make and make excellent Christmas presents for friends and family.

u/YetAnotherFrreddy · 4 pointsr/AskElectronics

For general electronics use, it's hard to beat the Hakko FX888.

u/y-aji · 4 pointsr/synthesizers
u/bagelofthefuture · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Typically the better iron brands are Weller and Hakko, with their hobbyist-level stations being the WES51 and the 888D

u/Enlightenment777 · 4 pointsr/ECE


1A) Art of Electronics book (3rd edition)

  1. Digital Soldering Station

  1. Digital Caliper

    Comparison Review:

u/Rob27shred · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Oh wow, MX black switches are usually not very tight fitting with caps either. MX clear switches are the ones that are notorious for this! Sorry this happened to you OP. This isn't the greateast video showing how to de-solder switches but should give you a decent ideal of what you'll need to do. The only tools you'll really need are a sodapullt, some solder wick, & a decent temp controlled soldering station. Well, TBH you could get away with a cheaper soldering iron if all you plan on ever using it for is replacing these few switches. Although I will say cheap soldering irons with no temp. control are much easier to damage the PCB or pads with.

u/isanyonekeepingtrack · 4 pointsr/3Dprinting

You're not going to get a good soldering iron for $10. The good Hakko ones are electronically controlled so they're always at the correct temperature.

I initially scoffed at spending that much money on one for how often I solder, but the quality of work I can do is so much better now. They're worth every penny.

u/bbartokk · 3 pointsr/modular

I like this Hakko soldering iron. I went through a few cheap ones before finding this one. The temp is digitally controlled which I find very helpful.

u/ENGR001 · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

Edit: Please make sure you turn off and unplug your power supply before cutting any wires.

Parts / tool list below, this what i used but there are substitutes out there.

Note: Main thing that is slightly challenging is soldering the XT60s, basic idea is to “tin” (soldering term) the wires and the XT60s first, then heat the connector with your iron as you put the wire in to get a good fusion. Decent video on soldering them:solder XT60s

My soldering Iron:

Soldering Flux:

Solder (60-40)

New XT-60’s and Shroud:

Helping Hands (not required, but def helpful)

Bought this a while ago, but any heat shrink will do:

Wire - If you’re new to soldering and need practice, or you’re going to split your cables for Rasberry Pi, or other components, etc:

u/risknoexcuses · 3 pointsr/Multicopter

I took the plunge and bought this one . Love it and it's worked for all of my RC, 3D printing, guitar, and automotive hobbies. Well worth the investment.

u/bentika · 3 pointsr/retrogaming

Aoyue is cheap but super Chinese. We use them at my work, but I would suggest a hakko.

Here's my setup, you can see my consolized game gear on my desk hah

Also, go watch some Ben heck videos if you want to learn how to solder well.

u/SteveTCook · 3 pointsr/arduino

I’ve never tried a TS100, so maybe it’s great, but just beware that buying cheap might just translate to buying twice (this translates to a lot of things in life).

I originally bought a handheld soldering iron made by Weller, a name brand, and could never get the hang of soldering. I thought it was just a skill I couldn’t pick up for years until I tried a Hakko ( soldering station, and it was so dang easy!

In trying to save money, I only caused myself frustration, and I had to buy twice instead of once. A good soldering station is more than just a hobbyist item, it’s a genuinely useful tool to have. You can fix headphones, power cables, and do all kinds of things that will save you money.

So, sorry to contradict you OP, but from experience, I recommend investing in the right tool the first time.

Edit: plus the Hakko isn’t terribly expensive itself, at $100

u/Yelneerg · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

I have this digital Hakko station which I've been very happy with and is very popular among the DIY community

u/heavymcd · 3 pointsr/Guitar

I have something similar to this guy from Hakko. You can find it a little cheaper if you shop around, and there's one with an analog temp dial versus digital that's a bit cheaper as well.

That's a proper soldering station, and it's not cheap. But you get what you pay for, like with any tool. I can say I've put a ton of use into it over several years, and it gets the job done easily. Backs of pots? Not even a hiccup.

That $40 Weller is probably decent too, but that's probably about the bare minimum you should be looking at.

I also have no idea why Hakko makes their gear look like children's toys in the US, but don't let the styling fool you...they're serious pieces of equipment. And IIRC one of the cheaper options if you're comparing similar models to Weller and such.

Edit: As for what we use in our production shop, I think we have something like these from Metcal. That's obviously overkill. But having used our stations at work and that Hakko at home, I can say the latter is just fine and you'd hardly notice the difference for the jobs you're doing.

u/Kistler125 · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

The Hakko FX888D is going to be what the majority of people that comment here will point you to, with good reasons. Price may be a bit high but this thing will see you through all your hobbies that require soldering, honestly there is nothing bad I can say about the unit besides the fact that it’s ugly AF 😂

Weller WE1010 is what I’m currently using (Gave Hakko away to my brother) As far as I can tell there is no noticeable difference between the two, with the same heat up time, performance, etc. one thing is that this doesn’t come with a brass tip cleaner like the Hakko so you’d have to get one yourself.

u/Brostafarian · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

hakko fx-888D is my current iron. Costs a pretty penny but if you're going to be doing a lot of work it's great. It's digital, so it regulates temperature instead of power, and you can cycle between custom temperature presets or set it to whatever temperature you feel like. the nibs are a bit expensive compared to the shitty iron I had before it, but they also last a lot longer; also I got a combo deal on amazon for like 10 nibs for 15 bucks when I bought the iron

only downside is it looks like a fisher price toy

u/Kuryaka · 3 pointsr/Nerf

Good quality as in: Will work for Nerf stuff for a while, or solid build quality where you won't have to replace it often?

If you want to go for something that's no-worries and will probably last for the foreseeable future, the Hakko FX888 is SOLID.

Anything else I'd consider "nice" would have to have a soldering iron holder and temperature control that I trust. Very nice features, because if you leave the iron sitting for a while and don't tin the tip, the heat will start to oxidize/damage the finish of the tip and become unusable. This can also happen on any iron if you leave it running hot for a while, but something that's temperature-controlled rather than with an arbitrary power knob will keep your iron tip intact much longer.

Mid-tier would be something with variable power control but not temp control. You might be able to get away with lowering the power while you work instead of turning it off.

The "Amazon Special" that UNW1 linked is a fantastic soldering iron for the price, plenty of power whereas other cheap irons won't heat up quickly enough. I'd recommend it for most people starting out, since it's great for learning the basics + soldering iron care. There is practically no temperature control on the thing though. I turned it way down to minimum (Claimed 200-250C, which is nowhere near hot enough to melt solder) and it still threatened to overheat.

I've heard of irons that are even better than the Hakko/similar models in terms of where the heating element's located, other features... but I don't have much expertise in the field and haven't seen a need for those. As far as I'm concerned, $100 is as high as you need to go for now, and $50 can probably get you set up with a solid iron.

u/RedMushtoom · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

Meh. For the asking price it's not a terrible deal, but the kit is low quality. I wouldn't bother with it. Get one of these instead. That offers a greater range of temperatures, and uses a digital controller.

u/FC-TWEAK · 3 pointsr/Nerf

> less than $100

Highly recommend the Hakko FX-888 Soldering station. It uses a ceramic heating element for fast recovery and instant heat-up times.

I've tried to use my cheap Radio Shack iron to rewire, results where not good. Cold welds and it took forever.

u/wilciws · 2 pointsr/Authentic_Vaping

This is the one I see recommended at openpv all the time. I would buy this one myself, I'm just using a junky 40w from radio shack.

u/TramStopDan · 2 pointsr/diyaudio

I recently got the Hakko f888d, maybe a little expensive but holy shit soldering is so much simpler now.

u/finnister77 · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

I'm just gonna put this out there....for another $40 you can get a great soldering station

Not sure if portability is an issue for you. For what it's worth, I have a cordless soldering iron I never use. Not really making those field repairs I thought I might be

u/CynicalTree · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Below $50? Get a Weller

Closer to $100? Hakko FX888D is hard to beat. This model is the one I use - Never had any issues with it. I don't know if it's changed over the years, main downside to this model was it needs an admin card inserted to change the temperature. Kinda annoying if you can't find the card.

Comes with a nice tip + sponge though and the holder is pretty solid too. It's mostly just a QOL difference though, I doubt you'd notice a significant difference in performance unless you're quite experienced.

u/aaronstj · 2 pointsr/modular

Do not buy a cheap soldering iron to start out with, you will just end up having to replace it. Buy either a Hakko or Weller soldering station, and you'll be fine.

u/HACKW0RTH · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Weller Digital: Best Iron I've Ever Used (money is no object, used these in my last job that required a lot of PCB soldering)

Weller Analog: Also Great (I used these in grad school... work great, reliable and consistent irons)

Hakko Digital: Come Recommended (These irons offer some of the functionality of the higher end Wellers but in a much more affordable package. Have not personally used, but come highly recommended as budget option).

u/ImArchimedes · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

This is really all I needed to be happy and dangerous. I was actually just doing more research when I saw your reply come though. I just didn't know if it was even possible to wire these connections. My basic understanding is that it should be possible but there's so much I don't know.


As for my soldering skills, they are probably "Beginners moderate" which is a thing I just made up. I've got the right gear to do the work but, as I'm sure you know, having the right gear is 10% of the job. Burned through 2 Teensy ++ 2.0's before I got it right with my last project.


And I'm totally comfortable ruining some more hardware to try this. I'm actually excited by the prospect. I think I kept those teensy's. If I can find them, I'll practice by trying to remove the smt micro usb ports on those. Not nearly as hard but a better start.


Anyway, really appreciated the reply. If you have the time to confirm I'm trying this with the right hardware, that would be just gravy. You've already done more than enough, though.


I'm planning on using my:

- Hakko FX888D-23BY Digital Soldering Station

- T18-BR02 Tip

- and the thinnest solder I could find that still has a rosin core


Anything look like the wrong choice? Tip and rosin?


Thanks again for all the help

u/Ophidios · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Whoo, loaded question with tons of opinions, hah.

The "best" lube is highly subjective, and it also depends on the type of switch. If you're lubing linear switches, my personal favorite is VPF 1514 oil. It's not cheap, but it gets the job done (you can order smaller quantities of it from Mehkee. For tactile switches, I use Krytox GPL 205 (which you used to be able to buy DuPont brand on Amazon, but no longer appears to be available).

Best solder for building keyboards is Kester, 0.8mm, hands down. Quality stuff, flows and bonds well, and the size is good for switches or LEDs.

Soldering iron recommendations: This cheap kit is acceptable for building a keyboard (I built 4 or 5 with it prior to upgrading). If you know you're going to be building multiple kits, and you think it's possible you might do re-work or try to desolder boards, just go ahead and spend the money right the first time and get this one: Hakko FX888D. Basically the gold standard of soldering irons.

u/futureoldperson · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi
u/LD_in_MT · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Soldering iron:

Edit: most people recommend getting a chisel tip for the soldering iron. Big tips for big jobs, small tips for small jobs. Just having the pencil tip and one chisel will get you by for a long time.

Desoldering braid:

Desoldering pump:

You want both the pump and the braid. Get thin solder for electronics. You should probably use lead-free, but I like good old 60/40.

There are a ton of suggestions on multimeters. The exact right one for you depends on what you eventually want to do. Dave Jone's EEVBlog has some good suggestions. As does Adafruit. Anything Adafruit recommends isn't too far off the mark. If you just want a suggestion: Extech EX330 for $45 Cheaper ones will do the job, but this is a better one. The next step up are True RMS meters for about $100.

u/trustifarian · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Looks like he used this kit from Aliexpress

But since you are new I'll try and explain a bit more so those things make more sense. Not that I really know what I am talking about....

  • Gateron Blues
  • Satan GH60 PCB
  • Danger Zone SA Keycaps
  • WS2812B LED strip

    Gateron Blues are the switches he used. If you have used a mechanical keyboard before, they are clicky similar (some say better) than Cherry Blue switches. If you have not used a mech before, well... find someone that has one, or your maybe your local electronics store may have some mech keyboards to try. You can get switches at or seem to have the best prices. You can find them on ebay and as well. The different colors are how Cherry Corp, and Gateron by extension, differentiate their switch types. There is a whole lot information in the Wiki on switches.

    GH60 Satan PCB is the circuit board that drives it all. It is a decent pcb, fully programmable, easily attained, I think it supports lighting effects that the orginal GH60 that it is a knock-off of did not. 1up also has them, but they can be found cheaper on ebay, but you'll be waiting for shipping from Taiwan.

    Danger Zone SA caps These are a small run set of caps. Caps are where this hobby can get crazy. The group buy was run probably a year ago and as far as I know there is no timeline for another round, if ever. You would need to search over on /r/mechmarket to see if anyone is willing to sell theirs.

    WS...LED Strip This is a strip of RGB LEDs that provides the RGB underglow that you see shining through the case. This needs to be soldered to the underside of the PCB.

    A few things that he didn't mention are the yellow LEDs for backlighting under the key caps. Switchtop has some. These would need to be soldered with the switches.

    You should get a positioning plate. This holds the switches in place and provides a more rigid base than only soldering the switches to the pcb. Sennin on ebay has decent aluminum plates.

    A similar (maybe its the same) case can be had from Sennin as well.

    In addition to all that you would need, or have access to, a decent soldering iron. This is decent. This is better. Then it is just a matter of inserting the LEDs into the switches, soldering the switches/leds to the pcb, soldering the LED strip to the underside, and programming it all! Simple, right? This is the walkthrough I followed when I built mine. Only I skipped the LEDs.
u/Dropouter · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Doing my first build and keep hearing about solder temperature. What is a good temperature for soldering switches on a board. Solder i'll be using looks to be [this] (

I appreciate any other soldering guidance as well.

Thanks for any replies!

u/thepensivepoet · 2 pointsr/Guitar

If you're including fret dressing :

leveling file

crowning file

end dressing file is nice to have, too

notched straight edge

various grit sanding pads

Those are pretty much the primary "big" items and you could find cheaper versions away from StewMac but I like to buy good tools once rather than shitty tools twice.

There are other little things like having a neck rest that aren't absolutely critical and can be replaced with a firm pillow or foam block for free

A good quality soldering iron

u/--Steak · 2 pointsr/MGTOW
  <br />

Had some free time so I wrote this:

If anyone wants to do Soldering,

  • I highly suggest watching a few Youtube videos on techniques on how to hold it the right way.

  • Buy a GOOD IRON (Weller or Hakko) NOT a cheap one!

  • Buy a station to rest the Iron on if it does not already come with it (A sponge is recommended)

  • Safety glasses and roll your sleeves up, just in case!

  • Buy a smoke absorber with a carbon filter, OR! build your own with a old phone charger as a power source, a switch, a cheap car filter and a old computer case fan... your making electronic gizmos anyways... WHY?: Because breathing Tin and Lead is fucking cancerous, and blowing it away without a filter is how you get pets, kids, or bacon to inhale cancer too.

  • Have a clear space to work with no combustible materials, avoid burning down your place.

  • ESD grounding wristband, I know it's lame. But It will save you a static shock, which could potentially result in a dead component on a board.. Also you should have one of these if you build your own PC. A $2.00 part can save you HUNDREDS

  • Remember to use the right size tip for the job, and to clean your Iron's tip after using it to prolong it's life.

  • If you cant afford these basics, either don't go out this weekend, and save up for them. Or find someone who does have these things that you can borrow.


    Soldering is extremely fun, rewarding, can motivate you about electronics, save you money, and convinces your friends to think you are some kind of "fire stick-wand wielding wizard of electronic black magic" (+7 to charisma!).

    But remember to solder safely!
u/RevClamJuice · 2 pointsr/SwitchHaxing

If you're interested in getting into soldering, get a few cheap kits like battery powered light up gadgets and the like. They're usually around like $10, so it's not that big a deal if you break them while you're learning to solder. Next, a hands free solder station and a proper soldering iron make all the difference. The hands free option is the cheapest of the cheap and the iron is just a personal preference. Being able to control the heat of your iron and keep your board accessible is super useful. I ruined a couple of PS2s being cock-sure with an $8 iron and no practice.

u/carbonpath · 2 pointsr/diypedals

Cheap soldering irons suck, no matter the brand.
Save up and get this:
Hakko FX888D-23BY Digital Soldering Station FX-888D FX-888 (blue &amp; yellow)

u/r4stl1n · 2 pointsr/fpvracing


All of the above is assuming you have everything required for building your quad if not below is a table with everything i think is necessary for building a quad. All these links will be from amazon

Part Type | Part Name | Quantity | Total Cost | Reason | Link
Soldering Station | Hakko FX888D-23BY Digital Soldering Station | 1 | $100 | When it comes to working with quads and electronics you really don't want to skimp on the thing that's putting it together. A good soldering station can change your entire experience when it comes to building quads. For this reason we go with a Hakko once bought you will not need anything else later on. |;amp;qid=1458237822&amp;amp;sr=8-7&amp;amp;keywords=soldering+station
Hot Glue Gun | CCbetter® Mini Hot Glue Gun | 1 | $15 | You will use this more than you think, everything from securing your camera, antennas, etc to adding extra insulation to your components to ensure nothing falls off or gets ripped off. |;amp;qid=1458237957&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=hot+glue+gun
Velcro | VELCRO Brand - Sticky Back | 1 | $11 | Sometimes you need things to only stick for a bit then take it off. Velcro is pretty much self explanatory keep your vtx in place among other things |;amp;qid=1458238198&amp;amp;sr=8-1-spell&amp;amp;keywords=stick+yvelcro
Zip Ties | Heavy Duty Black Cable Ties | 1 | $11 | The corner stone of fpv IMO. These are keeping more quads flying than anything else. |;amp;dpID=41r7oTe3IpL&amp;amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160,160_&amp;amp;refRID=1G5GJ28Z3M8JBJDW67RV
Solder | Miniatronics Corp 1064004 Rosin Core Solder 60/40 4oz | 1 | $12 | You are always going to need solder and this as the flux mixed in meaning it will be a very easy to use solder. |;amp;rps=1&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1458238393&amp;amp;sr=1-7&amp;amp;keywords=solder&amp;amp;refinements=p_85:2470955011
Velcro Straps | Reusable Dubbex Black Velcro Cable Ties | 1 | $13 | Can be used for pretty much anything like batterystrap, hold wires down etc. |
Voltmeter | Blackcell DC 3.2-30V LED 0.56inch Panel Meter Digital Voltmeter | 1 | $7 | Eventually something is going to go wrong and you are going to have to ensure that your voltages are correct. You are going to need this to verify volt outputs and to figure out what they are when there is no documentation for what you are looking at |;amp;rps=1&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1458238663&amp;amp;sr=1-6&amp;amp;keywords=voltmeter&amp;amp;refinements=p_85:2470955011
Desolder Tool | LyonsBlue Desoldering Vacuum Pump | 1 | $9 | Very useful for cleaning up to much solder or removing solder from contact pads to redo. Simply heat up the solder and suck it out. |;amp;qid=1458238959&amp;amp;sr=8-2&amp;amp;keywords=desolder
TOTAL | FOR | ALL | $178 | |

u/Ghost_Pack · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

Depends on the projects. If you're doing anything that requires precision soldering or you need it to last more than a month or two I probably wouldn't get anything super cheap like what you posted, especially if you don't need the extra stuff like the multi-meter and screwdriver. That iron probably costs under a dollar or two to make which is kind of scary considering you're relying on it to control its heat output.


I'd recommend getting a soldering station from a well known brand like this one for any substantial amount of soldering. If you're looking at getting into hobbyist electronics in general or want to invest in a good iron go for something like this.

u/Gibborim · 2 pointsr/UWMadison

Just a fair warning, the random cheapo soldering irons that just plug the wand directly into the wall are shit. It will be hell trying to solder large components like keyboard switches.

If you expect to do soldering in the future aside from this project, I would buy something with a discrete power station or even a low end Hakko model. If you get a soldering iron that costs less than $50, you are probably going to have a bad time.

Now, if this is the only thing you think you will need soldered for a long time, you could walk into the Makerspace and pay one of the student employees to do it for you. A bunch of the same components soldered over and over should only be what, 1-2 hours work? (I'm assuming you didn't design your own control board that needs a bunch of tiny components soldered on.)

u/brucethehoon · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

I personally use the Weller WESD51 and love it.

On the cheaper side, I'm told the Hakko FX888D is excellent, and at less than a hundred bucks, you can't go wrong.

u/natermer · 2 pointsr/ebikes

You look like you are using a proper soldering iron. But I don't know for sure.

Nicer irons used for electronics have proper temperature sensors and can dump a lot of energy into the tip to maintain the desired temperature as much as possible.

Something like this:

Cheaper soldering irons you can typically pick up in a hardware store depend more on a sort of 'slow equalization' were the amount of energy used is a pretty much constant. The 'temperature control' really is just mostly a resistor that limits the energy going into the tip.

The big 300w irons work a lot better because they have large thermal mass. They can maintain their temperature better then the cheap hardware store ones because of this.

The problem with using a cheap iron is that it takes much longer to get the surface of whatever you are soldering too up to the proper temperature. This gives a lot of time for the heat to soak into whatever you are soldering and by the time you get the lead hot enough you have dumped a massive amount of heat into your work piece.

If you have a nice iron then it maintains it's temperature better and gets the surface hotter faster. This means that it takes a lot less time to get the surface to the proper temperature and less heat is needed overall.

You probably would of had a easier time getting proper looking 'tinning' of the battery with more surface prep. Solder works through capillary action as it 'follows the heat'. The solder wants to get 'sucked' into joints that are hot. So using rough sand paper (80 grit) to scrape up the surface probably would of helped. I would of sanded the bottom and then used acetone or alchohol to clean everything.

Another thing that would of likely helped is brushing on soldering paste onto the surface. The resin/paste is a acid that helps prep the surface when it heats up. The solder isn't going to want to join to surfaces with oxidation, oils, or other things. The resin cleans the surface to help. The resin core is there to do that as well, but it's usually useful to brush more onto the work piece.

Also you don't want to hold it for a pre-determined amount of time. You can tell if you are doing good job by the surface tension on the blob of solder and seeing it flow.... which you were having a difficult time doing on the bottom... which is perfectly understandable and expected.

All in all I think the video is a good demonstration of the problems with using solder. I think you gave a fair shake.

u/hwiguna · 2 pointsr/arduino

I agree with the answers already given by others:

  • Get a temperature controlled one like the Hakko.

  • For problematic surfaces, use a Flux Pen. They're magic. Solder will stick to wherever you apply this liquid.

  • Do not use lead free solder, they're a little harder to work with.
u/Cheticus · 2 pointsr/arduino

I've cheaped out before. They never last. They make shit solder joints. There are a lot of things in life you can and should half-ass. Soldering is not one of them.

I have a Hakko FX888D and love it. Got it a year or so ago and haven't looked back.

u/DarthRTFM · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

Eh, soldering just takes a bit of practice, and there are tons of Youtube videos that explain in detail the best ways to do so.

(I'd recommend this channel

Really it's all about not holding the iron on the board too long. Once you get that down, it's easy. Learning the wire gauges and all that is also very easy as most boards have recommendations in the paperwork. (if it carries power, big wire... If it carries signal, smaller wire). These new DNA boards are about the easiest thing ever to work with, and even someone with little to no experience could solder them with ease. (now the DNA20/30/40, notsomuch)

If you're looking for a good soldering iron, you want something with wattage control, and while weller has been the standard for decades, they are overpriced and a bit hardcore unless you are a pro. I'd highly recommend the Hakko FX888D which is what pretty much everyone uses, or what I personally use, the Aoyue 9378 which has served me very well. There are others for considerably less, and if you aren't planning on making this a hobby, then something like the Aoyue 469 would be perfectly fine. (60w is about a low as you'll want for a variable wattage iron, so you'll have a little wiggle room)

u/jaykaizen · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

I'm basically in the same boat as you so I cant help you much but here's some places that can.
I haven't watched that video but there are is a few on YouTube.

try doing a search here and if you still have questions do a post.

Thsee are two highly rated soldering stations on amazon;amp;sr=8-9&amp;amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&amp;amp;keywords=soldering+iron;amp;sr=8-19&amp;amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&amp;amp;keywords=soldering+iron&amp;amp;dpPl=1&amp;amp;dpID=41sCMxh%2BAYL&amp;amp;ref=plSrch

And you may want to get these

You may want to start with an unregulated or an okr or raptor build. It'll be cheaper and its easy to find tutorials on building them online. That is probably what I will start with.

u/ei-krem · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards
u/bewalsh · 1 pointr/videos

I went with this one. I liked the digital temp and everywhere I looked said hakko was a BIFL brand. I also got like 10 different tips because I have no idea what I'm doing with the thing. Didn't realize the included tip was perfectly fine for the big joints I needed to retouch.

Maybe I'll start buying broken electronics on ebay to learn to fix stuff.

u/Toms42 · 1 pointr/Multicopter

-a good workbench with clamps and a lot of surface area

-a soldering STATION. I have this. also buy LEAD solder, and those little things of cleaner/tinner are super useful.

-fume extractor (optional, but very easy to build with a fan and some ducting. Worth it.)

-pliers, wire cutters, crimpers, and strippers,

-lots of extra wire

-heat shrink tubing and something to heat it with.

-lots of extra screws/zip ties/fasteners

-somewhere to put screws. A flat tray works nicely, but magnetic ones are the best.

-a multimeter or oscilloscope. I use this.

-prop balancer. Very necessary, especially if doing video or using cheap props. (They can explode if not balanced.)

-lots of lamps and light sources.

-a pair of Helping Hands for soldering.

-hex wrenches/screwdrivers

-good hacksaw/hobby saw/Xacto knife.



u/capn_slendy · 1 pointr/Nerf

Yes, soldering stations are a ridiculous improvement over normal soldering irons! If you get the cash to splurge a little, Hakko makes great soldering stations. The FX-888D is a great entry level soldering station for about $100, which is still pretty much on the low end for soldering stations. But you should be able to find one on Amazon a little cheaper, closer to $90. However low end soldering stations are usually perfect hobbyist stations.

edit: Found one!

u/III-V · 1 pointr/SaltLakeCity

No worries. If you're looking in a good iron, this would be what I'd consider entry level. It's what I'm currently using, and has paid for itself many times over. Your typical habor frieght/radio shack iron is total garbage that will cause more damage than repair.

Decent flux and braid, and soldering tips to go with that iron.

For solder, it's more or less the same, other than lead-free vs. leaded. I would get leaded solder. It's a million times easier to work with, due to the lower melting temperature. It's also nice for desoldering -- you take a blob of leaded solder and run it against the solder joints you're trying to remove, and it'll lower the melting point of the preexisting solder and make your life much easier.

Lead-free solder is used today to prevent lead from entering wastewater, since millions of tons of electronics get thrown away every year. When you're repairing something, you're keeping it out of the trash, so I have no moral concerns with it. And it's not really a health concern for rework/reflow, so long as you wash your hands and keep them out of your mouth :)

u/240pMan · 1 pointr/crtgaming

there are about 5-6 other components that I could still replace in the horizontal linearity circuit and I will probably do this. I do think it will solve the issue but I will likely try because of how much effort and money I have invested into this set. I love the set other than the geometry problems and the geometry issue isn't really that noticeable in 3D games. I don't notice it at all when playing Super Mario 64 and N64 looks great on the JVC D201 set. Also, keep in mind that when you are dealing with geometry issues, you only need to focus on the horizontal and vertical linearity circuits which contain 20-30 aluminum electrolytic capacitors combined. Replacing capacitors isn't hard at all with the right tools. I did make sure to watch a ton of videos on how to solder and desolder and I bought my tools based on recommendations in Youtube videos and on several electronics forums.
I use this soldering iron and it works great,;amp;qid=1556333443&amp;amp;s=gateway&amp;amp;sr=8-3
I use this solder sucker and it is also great. You just have to make sure to push out the old solder with the pump after every 1-2 connections,;amp;qid=1556333566&amp;amp;s=gateway&amp;amp;sr=8-3
I recommend have a desoldering wick as backup as well. Use a no-clean solder wick of 2.0mm for general desoldering. As far as flux, flux paste is easier to use as it doesn't drip. The AMTECH NC-559-V2-TF no-clean tacky solder flux is good. Any no clean liquid flux from Kester or MG Chemicals will work fine as well. Definitely get some wire cutters for cutting solder and cutting component leads.
I use this solder (I recommend lead solder with a rosin core and also no clean);amp;psc=1
Any time you work on a CRT, you need to discharge the anode cap. This is very easy to do with the proper tools. For example, you could use a flat head screwdriver and an alligator clip wire to do this. You connect one end to the screw driver, the other end to a ground point on the CRT chassis (i.e. the metal frame around the CRT), slide the screwdriver under the rubber anode cap with the CRT unplugged until you hit the metal connector in the metal. Rub the screwdriver on this metal connector for about 5 seconds and it will be discharged. Retrotech on Youtube has a video on how to do this. I wouldn't say you need $80 electrical gloves to do this but at least wear a rubber or leather glove or both and only use one hand. Retrotech actually has quite a few videos on how to work on CRTs.
Overall, doing basic things like replacing capacitors in CRTs isn't that hard, you just have to spend the time to educate yourself, be patient and it will click. If you have any questions, just ask me or anyone else on here. If you ever work on any power circuit capacitors, make sure to discharge them with a high wattage and ohm rated resistor but using insulated pliers to hold the resistor legs to the capacitor legs for about 5 seconds to discharge the cap before you remove it.

u/RonTvDinner · 1 pointr/seaglass
u/Compupaq · 1 pointr/originalxbox

I have an older model of this solder station. It's held up pretty well in the 9 years I've owned it. Still on the original heating element too.

There are cheaper Hakko solder stations out there too, like this basic unit. You should also invest in some flux and a solder sucker if you ever plan on desoldering anything.

u/Bleedthebeat · 1 pointr/mildlyinfuriating

You could go with this one and it would be better than anything you could get for $20.

But it’s definitely worth the extra money to go with

This one

or this one

I have the Hakko and a buddy has the Weller so I’ve used them both and they’re both great stations.

u/here_for_the_meta · 1 pointr/rccars

If you’re running a brushed motor you’d only have 2 leads so it would work. I personally prefer 4mm bullet plugs for the motor myself.

As far as for battery and esc leads I think they’re about the nicest plugs out there. They’re way nicer than deans if you get the version with the cover at the bottom. This way you don’t have to use shrink tubing to cover the soldering. Makes for a nice clean look

Also I find them much easier to solder. They have a C shape to them so you lay the wire in a little channel and can solder away.

Last, if soldering is a bad experience you should consider upgrading your soldering iron. I use a hakko and it makes soldering so easy it’s incredible. It puts heat at your joint quickly so you get on and off without heat traveling everywhere. No wire is too thick or difficult to get the solder to adhere to.

Couple this with a helping hands setup from amazon and soldering becomes a simple and dare I say fun task. Believe me I used to hate it every time.

Hakko FX888D-23BY Digital Soldering Station FX-888D FX-888 (blue &amp; yellow)

I got mine for $70 so maybe check around. Or perhaps they’ve gone up :/

Fstop Labs Helping Hands Soldering Tool, Third Hand Soldering PCB Holder Tool, Four Arms Helping Hands Crafts Jewelry Hobby Workshop Helping Station Non-Slip Steel Weighted Base

So helpful. Game changer.

u/FenderTremolo87 · 1 pointr/retrobattlestations

Thanks! Went with Hakko FX888D-23BY Digital Soldering Station FX-888D FX-888 (blue &amp; yellow)

My understanding is I still need cutters and a solder sucker as well

u/cthief · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Here is a short build inventory for people who may want to perform this mod in the future:

  • 1x 0.5oz - 2oz tube of Krytox GPL 205 Grease. This will last you a long time.
  • 1x Victorinox Multi-Tool Oil or any plastic-safe, high viscosity oil.
  • 1x 100pc bag of 68g Cherry MX compatible springs
  • 100x Plate mount Cherry MX Clear keyswitches. You could also buy a KUL ES-87 with Cherry MX Clears, but just be sure to have extras in case of damage during the modification process.
  • 1x KUL ES-87 of any Keyswitch/color (black or smoke black) variety.

    Lube and replace switches based on WFD's guides. Get two small paintbrushes and a pair of forceps or tweezers to help manipulate the components during the lubrication process. You should also whip up a couple of these guys. They make opening the switches a hell of a lot easier.

    This was only my second time desoldering so I learned a lot along the way. Quality, flux-treated desoldering braid and a temperature controlled soldering iron with a chisel tip was the most reliable method I found to desolder. I used the Hakko FX888D soldering iron and station with a 2.4 mm x 14.5 mm Hakko chisel tip. I used Chemtronics' Chem-Wick desoldering braid to remove the solder from the plated through holes on the PCB. You have to take extra care when using desoldering braid not to heat up other components on the board, but with enough practice you will be a pro!
u/K_s_K · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Then you should get a good soldering station. Hakko is a really good brand. Heres one of their soldering stations:
If thats more than what your willing to spend i've heard good things about the low end weller stations. doesn't have the highest wattage but it should be good enough for your purpose. Link:;amp;qid=1305842734&amp;amp;sr=8-2-fkmr0

u/hamsterdave · 1 pointr/amateurradio

Ohh, that's good idea. My little Weller station finally gave up the ghost last month. Maybe I'll add a Hakko to my list.

u/scubascratch · 1 pointr/electronics

Don't buy it from radio shack those are all garbage which he will be unhappy with.
What is your budget?can you swing $100? This one is very good for that price.

u/exploringaudio1999 · 1 pointr/diypedals

here's what i currently use -

get a good iron, don't get something really cheap. everything is easier with something that works well.

u/grant1704 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

How good?

Here is one that will last you pretty much for whatever no matter what you do with it, its the soldering iron I have used for the past several years and has been great on a number of projects:

Here is one that will do just fine but isn't great or anything:

The most important feature for a good soldering station is variable temperature.

The only other things you will need is solder:, a solder wick:, and possibly wire cutters if you don't have them:

Some personal advice is get the best one you can afford if you thing you will use it a lot, the difference between a okay one and a great one is huge. I hated soldering till I got a good iron.

u/commiecomrade · 1 pointr/diypedals

Build Your Own Clone

I doubt you'd keep track of any more websites I could mention above once you find a few kits there. As far as equipment goes, get:

A decent soldering iron ... Alternative (please also get this with the alternative)


Micro Cutters to trim leads

Hopefully you have a small flat-head screwdriver to set knobs and a small flat pair of pliers to attach hardware to the enclosures.

I doubt you'd need to but if you ever need to get any components that aren't supplied with a kit, go to Tayda Electronics for nearly any part (they tend to be cheapest for hobbyists, you can find anything from passive components like resistors and capacitors, to knobs/switches/audio and power jacks, etc.).

u/LoadInSubduedLight · 1 pointr/modular

To be more precise, I mean something like this . They make lots of stuff apparently.

u/pyrokld · 1 pointr/arduino

Yep as soon as I saw 75-100 my mind went straight to my Haako station and what a difference it made to my ability to solder having a real nice station:;amp;qid=1543381467&amp;amp;sr=8-2&amp;amp;keywords=haako

u/ttoilleynnek · 1 pointr/diyelectronics

Kinda spendy for just starting out, but I highly recommend this one. Really easy to use and more dependable than the more expensive ones.

u/Uki_EE · 1 pointr/EngineeringStudents

Depends on how "decent" you're looking for. I have the Hakko FX888D and I don't think I'll need anything else for years to come. Hakko and Weller are both solid brands, and are what you will find in a lot of EE workplaces. Ideally you'd want something with temperature control. You can get one of those cheap $20 if you don't want to make the investment now, but I can guarantee it will crap out on you by the time you graduate, and probably much earlier than that.

u/coryking · 1 pointr/arduino

Do keep in mind though shelling out for a good soldering iron and some very thin solder will make a huge difference in your work. A good roll of solder will run you $40 and a good iron is gonna run at about $100. But damn is it worth it over the cheap ones...

Just something to consider if you get into this hobby...

u/Naaackers · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I’m in the same boat as you, just want the best quality. I was doing some looking around recently and I came across this middle of the road iron, has a lot of great reviews. Isn’t the best, isn’t the worst. This is what I’m aimin for!

Hakko FX888D-23BY Digital Soldering Station FX-888D FX-888 (blue &amp; yellow)

u/janoc · 1 pointr/PrintedCircuitBoard

Don't know that soldering station, so can't comment on it.

But if you want to get a proven product, go with a well known brand, like a Hakko, JBC, Pace, Weller, ERSA or Metcal. E.g. this Hakko is very popular and good:

Just beware of ripoffs - there are plenty of fakes of this (and other) Hakko stations around.

Unless you planning on reworking massive BGAs then for the hot air I would recommend a cheapie - it is not something you are going to use all the time (definitely less than a soldering iron) and it only takes unnecessary space on the bench if you buy a combo rework station.

I have an Atten 858d now. I actually prefer it over my old rework station because it doesn't have that thick air hose going to the nozzle (which was always getting in the way on the bench) and a noisy air pump - it uses a normal cheap blower integrated right into the handle. And if it breaks it is easy to repair, in the worst case it is cheap enough to toss and buy a new one.

However, I do have that microscope, or at least one that looks identical, mine is from eBay, branded AndonStar. It is an OK microscope for a cheap USB device, but if you want to solder under it, I suggest you invest into a proper optical stereo microscope or at least one of those flip-up magnifiers that you wear on your forehead.

These USB microscopes are quite fiddly mechanically (even though this one is better than most), feel "laggy" due to the delay inherent in the fact that it is essentially a webcam and lack sense of depth because it is not stereoscopic. Also having to look at a screen and not at what you are doing requires practice and is very unnatural. All of this will wreak havoc with your hand-eye coordination. Not very good when you are soldering tiny components.

It is certainly possible to solder under one of these in a pinch, but it is a pain. I would recommend using it only for board inspection - it is fairly decent for that. For actual soldering I have switched to a head-mounted stereo magnifier and then later a stereo microscope. You don't need much magnification - 5-10x is more than enough for most jobs, but the lack of lag and the sense of depth thanks to the stereo image even with the $10 magnifier make an enormous difference.

u/MDAI88 · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

I think i'm going to go with this one here. Its more then the one I originally thought of getting but sounds like this one is MUCH better then the Chinese crap. But I might go with this one here its a lot more but its worth it from what it sounds like.

u/casual_slavery · 1 pointr/audiorepair

I can pick up a half decent multimeter (Amprobe AM-510 perhaps? 50USD on ebay), then learn/do the troubleshooting. Then if it turns out I need to replace the power transistors I could pick up something like this Hakko digital soldering station? Would those potentially be sufficient for the job?

I've done some amount of soldering, but only with a cheapo iron. I replaced a dead capacitor in a LCD monitor and have mended several wires.

Thanks for response.

u/HiggityHank · 1 pointr/pinball

It's hard to go wrong with Hakko:

u/Lightpink87wagon · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards
u/bingwhip · 1 pointr/TinyWhoop

TS100 is great and portable. But if you don't care about portable, The Hakko FX888D is better.

u/not_really_cool · 1 pointr/guitarpedals

This is the same Hakko I have.

u/acet1 · 1 pointr/EngineeringStudents

This one on Amazon seems to have pretty good reviews. I'd recommend getting a stand like this to go with it for safety reasons. (I decided to solder without mine a few weeks ago, and wouldn't you know it, the one time I decide I don't need the stand, I burn myself!)

You can easily spend a lot more on irons, and if you start doing a lot more soldering you may want to make a bigger investment. A lot of people really like the Hakko FX888D, but I personally prefer the Weller WTCPT-60 because I don't like fussing with knobs. (Despite not having a knob, the Weller actually does have very precise temperature control, but depending on what temperature you want you have to buy different tips, which isn't worth the hassle for most people. I use only one kind of solder so it doesn't matter for me, but I digress.)

I've never found any tutorials I really like, and my advice is to just get busy! You'll make a lot of mistakes and do a lot of projects slowly before you get good, and I don't think there's a tutorial out there that will let you skip that. To help you stay pointed in the right direction, here are a few things I look for in a good solder joint:

  • A clean, consistent meniscus around the parts being soldered. If I'm tinning stranded wire, then I want to be able to see the contours of the strands underneath the solder once it's cooled, while still using enough solder to get good penetration. Big gobs of solder all over the place look tacky, can cause shorts, and can indicate the next problem:
  • "Cold" solder joints. By this I mean that the conductors you're soldering together weren't hot enough when the solder melted, and so the solder didn't stick. Solder on "cold" joints will often (but not always) have a frosty appearance, and will usually bead up instead of forming a meniscus like I described earlier. To make sure your joints aren't cold, use the iron to heat the joint, then touch the solder to the joint (rather than the iron), to melt it. If the conductor is hot enough to melt solder by itself, you can be sure you're joints won't be cold. (Usually you have to melt a little gob of solder onto the iron first to get the heat to conduct into the joint. This is a trick you can only get good at through practice.)

    There are a few intuition issues you should be aware of that I've observed while teaching students to solder. For instance, most of the stuff you'll be soldering is so small that it will be "cold" (as in "too cold to melt solder") the instant you pull the iron away, and cool enough to touch within seconds. Try it if you don't believe me. The part will only stay hot as long as the iron is touching it. You'd be surprised how many people can't get their head around this.

    Also, oxygen is your enemy. The longer the part is hot, the more oxidized the surface will become and the harder it will be for solder to stick. This is true even when the joint is hot, but not hot enough to melt solder! So once the iron contacts the work, you have to be expedient. Most joints can be finished in 5 seconds or less, and if you're holding the iron on there for 10 seconds or more but the solder still isn't melting, stop and reexamine what you're doing. You may want to get some fine-grit sandpaper to clean the conductors off before you start again.

    Keeping oxygen out of your solder joint is the job of flux, and like /u/avialex (edit: fixed) said it's very helpful (provided everything is relatively clean to begin with). But again it's a balancing act. If you use too much flux you'll make a mess, and raw flux is slightly corrosive and can be very difficult to clean off your work.

    There are lots of other tricks you'll learn through practice too. I guess that's where tutorials might come in handy. You'll probably learn to splice wires (probably the most difficult thing to do with a soldering iron) much more quickly from someone with experience on Youtube than struggling through it 20,000 times yourself, doing it a harder way because you didn't know any better.

    At the same time though, there's no substitute for practice. This went on a lot longer than I intended, but I think now you have plenty of information to keep in mind as you get started. Good luck and happy soldering!
u/juaquin · 1 pointr/flashlight

&gt;That's it - just two solder connections?

Yep. If you buy from Mountain Electronics and select the option for wires on the driver, then you just need to thread the wires through the pill and solder them onto the LED board (you might need to shorten them first). /u/potatoworld made a video that should be helpful: There will be some differences with the Convoy.

&gt; What would you recommend, for a high quality soldering iron, and what type of solder works best for flashlight work?

Lots of option out there for an iron. I've seen good reviews of this one for a budget option. For a solid station you'll use for a decade or two, this Hakko is probably the most popular. Make sure to pick up a few extra tips.

For solder, make sure it's 63/37 eutectic. This means it goes directly from liquid to solid without the pasty time in-between, which makes it flow better and leads to less "cold" joints. I like Kester 44 0.031in (you can find it elsewhere cheaper, just make sure it's the right one, they have lots of different blends and thicknesses).

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

Buy a Hakko FX888D. I have the older non-digital version, the FX888. It's worth every penny. Comes on almost instantly and the tip is always at the right temperature.

There's nothing worse than finding out a crappy solder job destroyed your project, or some component on it.

u/nstern2 · 1 pointr/consolerepair

For soldering a desoldering I use a Hakko Iron. For Screw drivers I use a set of Wiha Precision drivers. Throw in a few random bits to get into 360 controllers or the odd ps3 + some flux and a desolder braid or 2 and you have my full set of tools.

u/24nm · 1 pointr/ECE

Buy nice so you don't buy twice. You get what you pay for with irons. Hakko is a decent brand name, but I wouldn't buy from Adafruit. They typically charge higher prices for the same parts/equipment you can get on Digikey or Amazon. Here is the same iron but $20 less on Amazon.

u/posts_shit · 1 pointr/ECE

Came here to say this, bought my Hakko a few years ago, would highly recommend. Amazon has them for ~$90.

u/slick8086 · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

That wax like block may have been flux.

you can clean your tip with a brass sponge or a wet regular sponge (that's what I use) I've had my iron for years. I clean the tip frequently while using it. It will last for years to come. If you get soldering station like a Weller (this is the one I have) or a Hakko You will be able to change the tips. This is good for replacing damaged ones or getting different shaped/sized tips. To me having a "nice" soldering iron makes it more enjoyable to solder. Also get or make a fume extractor.

u/GunGeek369 · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

Hakko soldering irons are the best imo. Here is the one I have. They heat and cool very quickly.

Hakko FX888D-23BY Digital Soldering Station FX-888D FX-888 (blue &amp; yellow)

u/Orion_Pirate · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

this soldering iron is amazing. I bought one, and on my recommendation, 3 friends have bought one too. They have all thanked me for the recommendation.

It has good temperature control, good tip cleaning ability, and the highly flexible cord connecting the iron to the controller makes soldering so easy. My previous cheap soldering iron had a stiff, heavy cable that "pulled" on the top of the iron, making delicate, accurate soldering work really frustrating and difficult.

u/VanillaSnake21 · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

I do have a home made setup in place at the moment, it's a home made preheater consisting of a hotplate and some clamps, a 1200 watt hot air gun and an infrared thermometer ( looking to upgrade to probing though). I think those hot air stations are not really meant for bga work, more like smd from what I have read. I have an arm in place that holds my heat gun over the board and a concentrator I made from sheet metal that concentrates the hot air on the chip, so in that regard I think I'm more or less set.

I just want to know what you think of these hakko clones, are they reliable? As far as I can see its a Chinese site and I'm not sure what to think of its reliability, what is your experience with it and how is their shipping speed?

I actually have a 19v laptop power right by me, but I looked up this ts100, it's a portable one right? It's around $60, but a hakko 888 ( is about $40 more and has lots of good reviews, what do you think?

u/Weaston · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards
u/Malmortulo · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

63/37 Rosin Core, No Clean, 0.031 solder:

If you plan on soldering again in the future I'd pick up a Hakko FX888D: Otherwise there are a few cheaper stations that would work.

u/Clustertruck · 1 pointr/Skookum

I don't know about the Sywon but the x-tronic will fall apart (they use plastic that is not heat safe to screw on the element body) and the weller is "alright" but nowhere near good.

Hakko makes good irons you can buy once and use forever. You want an iron with temperature control, not just a dial.

This is ideal:;amp;qid=1485284260&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=soldering+iron+hakko