Reddit Reddit reviews HICTOP Upgraded Replacement Aluminum MK8 Extruder Drive Feed for Creality 3D Printer Ender 3/3Pro CR-10, CR-10S, CR-10 S4, and CR-10 S5

We found 21 Reddit comments about HICTOP Upgraded Replacement Aluminum MK8 Extruder Drive Feed for Creality 3D Printer Ender 3/3Pro CR-10, CR-10S, CR-10 S4, and CR-10 S5. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Industrial & Scientific
Additive Manufacturing Products
3D Printer Parts & Accessories
3D Printer Accessories
HICTOP Upgraded Replacement Aluminum MK8 Extruder Drive Feed for Creality 3D Printer Ender 3/3Pro CR-10, CR-10S, CR-10 S4, and CR-10 S5
[UPGRADING]: Original Aluminum Drive Feed for Creality Ender 3/3Pro CR-10, CR-10 S4, CR-10 S5, it is stable and durable.[REPLACEMENT]: MK8 extruder drive feed kit, can replace acrylic parts of Creality Ender 3/3Pro CR-10, CR-10 S4, CR-10 S5.[Easy TO USE]:for 1.75mm filament of 3D printer MK8 bowden extruder frame[EASY OPERATION]: DIY kit and you need to assemble by yourself.[SERVICE COMMITMENTS]: We offer 1 YEAR Money Back Warranty. If you unsatisfied with the quality of our product, you can contact us with your complaints and 100% get your money back.
Check price on Amazon

21 Reddit comments about HICTOP Upgraded Replacement Aluminum MK8 Extruder Drive Feed for Creality 3D Printer Ender 3/3Pro CR-10, CR-10S, CR-10 S4, and CR-10 S5:

u/Iowa_Dave · 17 pointsr/ender3

The plastic extruder is garbage. I've added the aluminum upgrade to three Creality printers and it has been perfect every time.

u/oldcrow · 5 pointsr/ender3

I got something similar and it was because the spring in the extruder clamp wasn't giving enough compression. I mostly solved it by stretching out the spring a bit.

I eventually upgraded to an aluminum extruder and the problem went away for good.

u/Insanely_Mclean · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Time to upgrade to one of these perhaps? Either that, or try adding some blue threadlocker to the threads of the connector.

As for getting the filament back on the spool, you can set the printer to retract it, but it's a very slow process. I would probably just wind it back by hand carefully.

u/btalbot85 · 2 pointsr/ender3

Yep Capricorn often rocks. I am in the U.S. so these links may or may not help.

BLtouch kit https://www.amazon.com/Creality-Upgraded-BLTouch-Leveling-Accessories/dp/B07WK3T7S7/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=bltouch&qid=1574763211&sprefix=bltou&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzNUtFTUhQUTcwMDc3JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODcyMTkyM0RJVExFMUE4SVMyWiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDI0MTQ0MTEzOVNSVjZPOTNQQyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

Bigtreetech SKR Mini E3 https://www.amazon.com/BIGTREETECH-Control-TMC2209-Printer-Creality/dp/B07XYW21J3/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=mini+e3&qid=1574763284&sr=8-1

Aluminum Extruder
https://www.amazon.com/HICTOP-Upgraded-Replacement-Aluminum-Extruder/dp/B0761PGLZ4/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=bowden+aluminum+Extruder&qid=1574763338&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyNTBSWEdBMFREUzZYJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTM0MzM4MkpCSFA3RFpRVzFZTCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMDA2MDY2MlQ4TTRZVE5URzdTSSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

You already have a magnetic bed since you grabbed the pro version. The board I linked is silent , you will be impressed if you get it. The BLtouch makes bed leveling much easier and in my opinion is worth the extra cash. It just makes things easier. The aluminum extruder negates having to worry about the plastic one wearing out. Also look into getting a raspberry pi and running octoprint. That's another must have upgrade as well. Your going to love the Ender 3, enjoy it!!

u/ipswitch000 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

absolutely required upgrade: https://www.amazon.com/HICTOP-Upgraded-Replacement-Aluminum-Extruder/dp/B0761PGLZ4/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

The stock extruder has a weak spring, and the extruder arm tends to stick because there's no bushing where it connects to the motor.

u/sn34k · 2 pointsr/ender3

Most of these are less about upgrading, and more about fixing possible issues. But all of these are great to have and extremely cheap.


As others have said the glass bed and yellow bed springs are great, just be aware the amazon listing on there I used was shipped from china and took almost a month to show up. So pay attention to the shipping times.


The couplers the E3 comes with are straight up garbage. If they are not causing problems yet... they will. These are way better and give you plenty of extras if you ever need them:
https://smile.amazon.com/Ivelink-PC4-M10-Straight-Pneumatic-Extruder/dp/B073TTWWN1/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=ender+3+coupler&qid=1558892247&s=gateway&sr=8-7

​

The PTFE tube it comes with is also not great, any replacement one is usually better, and like others said with Capricorn you can print higher temps, but they also are manufactured to tighter tolerances and have less slack in your system. As to if this is a noticeable difference, it's arguable, but upgrading has fixed problems for some people.
https://smile.amazon.com/Capricorn-Bowden-Tubing-1-75mm-filament/dp/B079P92HN9/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=capricorn+tubing&qid=1558892351&s=gateway&sr=8-3

​

Even more important than the tubing it self is the cutter you use, if you buy different tubing, make sure you get a good cutter so the ends don't get pinched. This can cause drag that causes underextrusion.

https://smile.amazon.com/Capricorn-Bowden-Tubing-Cutter-M-Bowden-Cutter/dp/B07N11H963/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=capricorn+tubing&qid=1558892424&s=gateway&sr=8-8

​

The plastic extruder on the E3 is know to wear out after a few months for some. A filament guide will help but a better aluminum extruder should fix it for good. They are cheap and easy to install:

https://smile.amazon.com/HICTOP-Upgraded-Replacement-Aluminum-Extruder/dp/B0761PGLZ4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=ender+3+extruder&qid=1558892498&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

​

Once you want to go deeper down the hole, the two big mods that you will be happy with are A auto bed leveler and quieter stepper motors. There are guides for both of these on youtube and they are much more complicated and a bit more expensive but give amazing results.

​

A BLTouch goes for about $80 with the extension cable so you don't have to cut wires. It will make it so you save an offset and basically rarely have to level your bed again and the machine will account for most of it. There is another type of leveler I think it's called EZABL or something like that, but I liked the BLTouch option better so I never did the research on it.


If you want to do more upgrades like a touch screen, filament rounout sensor, and etc. you need a different main board. Most people upgrade to the MKS Gen L. They are about $25 bucks but require you to also buy new stepper motor drivers, which i'll touch on next. The board has more memory and slots for upgrades that the stock board does not. It does require a lot more setup and printing a new housing for the board. Again there are great youtube videos, just search for 'Ender 3 MKS Gen L'

​

If you think the Ender 3 is loud and would like it to be WAY quieter you can install better stepper motor drivers. The TMC 2208 driver will make the movement almost silent. you will still hear the fans, but the movement sound will completely gone. To install them you will need to either use the above mentioned board (as the stock board has the drivers integrated) or if you want an easier way you can order the Ender 3 Silent Ver 1.4 board:

https://www.creality3donline.com/creality3d-new-upgrade-silent-114-mainboard-for-ender-3-pro-ender-5-customized-und-non-standard-matching_p0147.html

This won't give you the upgradabiliity of the MKS board, but is a direct drop in replacement that gives you the silent steppers.

​

Welcome to family, and I hope some of that was helpful

u/clintkev251 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

This guy: here super cheap and helps the printer grab onto the filament a little bit more. I noticed that mine would sometimes slip during retractions. I'd also make sure you are using the little clips that hold the ptfe tight into the coupler. Excess play here can also cause issues

u/drewbagel423 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I have this extruder, how do I adjust the spring tension?

Picture of what part of the printer?

u/IcanCwhatUsay · 1 pointr/CR10

>MacEwen3D tests everything we offer. We don't refer to bolt-ons as upgrades, unless it actually upgrades performance and reliability. Choose wisely.

Well they've got my vote

I ended up with the generic HICTOP all metal Red Extruder. The double springs worked fine on the plastic extruder but I figured it wasn't a permanent solution. Switching to the all metal one and using the double springs actually caused my extruder to skip so I had to go to the spring it came with, seems to be working fine.

u/Xol_G · 1 pointr/FixMyPrint

UPDATE

After cleaning out my bowden tube between the tube itself and the nozzle, and removing the gunked up crud as well as trimming the end of the bowden tube where some filament was partially blocking, I put everything back together as it should be and set another test print for last night. I used the same model I had printed somewhat successfully but changed the following:

.2 less on wall thickness

10% less on density

10 added to Print speed

40 added to Travel speed

10% less on support density

And unfortunately, alittle more than halfway through the print this happened:

https://imgur.com/VbJXFJI

https://imgur.com/LrwHxlB

https://imgur.com/fcVClfZ

​

This morning I pulled apart the bowden tube and nozzle again to check for that problem from before but this time everything was fairly clear, no gunk in between tube and nozzle. At this point, I think it may be the extruder or possibly even something to do with the feeding of the filament spool itself since it seems to be a problem occuring around the same height everytime. I ordered an upgraded extruder [aluminum body] and better bowden tube this morning. Has anyone else noticed this kind of problem occurring consistently around the same height?

​

​

​

u/Need4Coffee · 1 pointr/ender5

I found this one after doing a search for an hour tonight on different websites: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0761PGLZ4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A2UHE58S2974CT&psc=1

u/Hurly26 · 1 pointr/CR10
u/greenasaurus · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Ah thanks. Have you tried the aluminum extruder drive feeder mod ?

u/squat251 · 1 pointr/ender3

That's a real bummer :( it sounds like it needs a shim, or to be returned and replaced. I bought this one and other than needing an additional m3 screw to hold the spring in place (I think I just lost the other one during the install) it's worked flawlessly. I also picked up a set of stainless extruder gears. Together these parts are performing flawlessly. not a great example, but it was dark when I took the picture.

u/trustmeiwouldntlie2u · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I got this one and it's working great: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0761PGLZ4

u/affluentjones · 1 pointr/FixMyPrint

This might work, but it's a different style. Amazon has these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0761PGLZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Zg4LDbB1BRRG0 which are the same style, but aluminum.

u/Rustic320 · 1 pointr/ender3

Here you just need one of these. Those plastic extruders feeds will eventually development a groove from the filament dragging and will cause what you are talking about. This is the same one I bought no problems since.

HICTOP Upgraded Replacement Aluminum MK8 Extruder Drive Feed for Creality 3D Printer Ender 3/3Pro CR-10, CR-10S, CR-10 S4, and CR-10 S5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0761PGLZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IFPNDb5XJEYWF

u/Mrisaacrubio · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I think it might be an extruder problem because it only affects about 5 percent of the layers, probably more likely that the extruder slips and then recatches rather than the nozzle clogging and unclogging itself right? and if so would this be a good idea to fix it?

u/Bob_Bushman · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Ok seems it was $20.

Someone recommended this https://www.amazon.com/HICTOP-Upgraded-Replacement-Aluminum-Extruder/dp/B0761PGLZ4 in a reddit comment.

Since I was at that moment testing a calibration cube at 135% flow rate and still seeing random under extrusion I figured. Why not?

just barely mounted it last night so haven't done much printing.
Apart from a cube and a cable catcher that failed.
But the layer lines are excellent compared to before.

u/gettothechoppaaaaaa · 1 pointr/CR10

Sorry I actually replaced the entire drive feed piece, not just the spring.

I got this one but also this other one for our other cr10 because I don't like the stock driver gear.


This was the last resort option for me after I've checked EVERYTHING. Leveling, clean nozzle, different temp/flowrates, different filaments, slower speeds, different slicers, etc. I even swapped consoles and motor steppers with other working cr10s to get down to the issue.

I decided to print vase mode and check the density of the print through a light. For a portion of it I held the spring out so that the gears will grip the filament better. During that portion the print was nice and solid and the other parts it was very see through and some layer separation. That was the final call that got me the new drive gear.