Reddit Reddit reviews HM Digital TDS-4 Pocket Size TDS Tester Meter with 0-9990 ppm Measurement Range , 1 ppm Resolution, +/- 2% Readout Accuracy

We found 23 Reddit comments about HM Digital TDS-4 Pocket Size TDS Tester Meter with 0-9990 ppm Measurement Range , 1 ppm Resolution, +/- 2% Readout Accuracy. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

HM Digital TDS-4 Pocket Size TDS Tester Meter with 0-9990 ppm Measurement Range , 1 ppm Resolution, +/- 2% Readout Accuracy
This TDS tester is ideal for all water purification applications, wastewater regulation, aquaculture, hydroponics, and colloidal silverATC (Automatic Temperature Compensation) ; Advanced microprocessor technologyThe Sleek design of the TDS-4 is perfect for personal or commercial useAlkaline batteries includedHold Function: Freeze the measurement to view it out of the water.Auto-off function: the meter shuts off automatically after 10 minutes of non-use to conserve batteries
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23 Reddit comments about HM Digital TDS-4 Pocket Size TDS Tester Meter with 0-9990 ppm Measurement Range , 1 ppm Resolution, +/- 2% Readout Accuracy:

u/pixelrebel · 54 pointsr/LosAngeles

There are many tests you can do, but the most basic benchmark, total dissolved solids, is the test he's talking about. The EPA says anything over 500 ppm is bad. But, what really matters is which solids are in your water.

If you'd like to take the first step to getting to know your water better, pick up a TDS meter:

https://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-Measurement-Resolution-Accuracy/dp/B0002T6L5M

u/Camallanus · 3 pointsr/Aquariums

Ahh, unfortunately, those test strips are not very reliable, so I can't trust them at all. But you can try comparing that to whatever the test results were when they were doing fine.

I use these GH & KH test kits for mine:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003SNCHMA

And this TDS meter:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002T6L5M/

The behavior you described seems to match some sort of poisoning from toxins or just slightly off water conditions. It could be ammonia since your test kit doesn't test for that, but I would lean more towards something like pH, GH, KH, and/or TDS changing too much from the conditions that CRS need. Neos are more tolerant of those, but would also be affected by something like ammonia poisoning.

u/Samizdat_Press · 3 pointsr/hydro

So if I were you I would look into what is referred to as a recirculating DWC, or RDWC. It is pretty much what you are looking for, and is also the cheapest way of doing what you want done (well, there's always a cheaper way, but I think it's still the best).

Basically, imagine you have say five 5gal buckets set up, and you don't' want to do water changes and shit in them individually. What you do is you drill a hole in each one, and connect them all via a 3/4" plastic tubing (black), then you attach the first bucket via the same tube to a single reservoir capable of carrying enough water for all of them (Let's say 25-30 gal reservoir). Basically what happens then is that a pump takes water from the main reservoir and circulates it evenly amongst the buckets. This a) keeps things flowing, and b) means you only have to add nutrients, change water, and cool one reservoir which is much easier than doing 5. Plus, if you get a big enough reservoir, like a 55 gallon drum, you could literally set and forget it for like a month with almost no maintenance (this is what I do). Another thing is you save on airstones because you only have to aerate the central reservoir and it will push that oxygen rich water to each bucket in a continuous loup.

Re: measuring, you should get yourself a TDS pen, and also a pH meter or pH test kit (the kind you would use for a pool or something). Those metrics needs ot be monitored ideally every day, realistically at least once a week if everything is recirculating. I sometimes go over 2 weeks without checking but I wouldn't do that until you are more familiar with hydroponics.

Start with easy stuff like basil etc. A 5 gallon bucket is big enough to grow any vegetable though, like tomatoes etc. Keep in mind that in a recirculating system, plants that flower/fruit must be kept separate from plants that only stay in the vegetative stage, as a tomato requires a different nutrient schedule than say basil or lettuce so they can't all be feeding off the same reservoir.

Let me know if you need clarification on any of those points or would like some links to a RDWC setup.

Here is the TDS pen I use, it's cheap and never breaks: HM TDS-4 Pocket Size TDS Meter

For pH meters, spend between $40-$70 for a good one, the tesk kit where you put the colored drops in like one would use on a pool are good too and are only $20 for like a hundred tests, but they aren't as acurate as you probably want. Hope that helps.

u/Hewbacca · 3 pointsr/hydro
u/Verivus · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

This is the one I use.

u/cfc1016 · 2 pointsr/ReefTank

Are you using RO/DI water?

Looks like you've got some diatom issues. A TDS meter will tell you if your water is more than 0ppm TDS. If it is, you should replace your RO mebrane and/or DI resin to bring it back down to 0ppm. The diatom will clear up.

Also - are those aiptasia all over the tank?

u/Level9TraumaCenter · 2 pointsr/orchids

Check your salts levels on different components with a TDS meter. A typical pen-type meter is pretty affordable.

Check your DI water, then soak some LECA in it for a day, see how much the numbers change. Compare with your fertilizer water, etc.

The numbers aren't like pH: they don't actually mean anything, other than how conductive the liquid tested is relative to a standard solution of sodium chloride. 100 ppm of sodium chloride TDS is very different from 100 ppm of magnesium sulfate, for several different reasons. But if you find your LECA numbers are through the roof, now you know where to start problem-solving.

u/madmatt1974 · 2 pointsr/Homebrewing

Keep in mind that RO chemistry is also based on the condition of the membrane and filters in the system. Not every maching you buy from will be the same, or even the same machine from week to week. I would recommend buying a TDS meter to test the waters hardness level as you buy it. Thats probably over the top, but thats what I would do at home if I had my own RO system.

u/Dr_Burns · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

i have a ppm tester its this one i will do this and get back to you.

u/perfektionism · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

No, still very much in veg. Flower probably won't start for another 6-8 weeks when the days start to get shorter.

[edit] So I can order something like this to measure ppm: https://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-Measurement-Resolution-Accuracy/dp/B0002T6L5M/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1498249894&sr=8-5&keywords=TDS+meter#customerReviews

But what would I do with the information it gives me? If say the nutrient water comes out 250ppm, would I need more or less nutrients? Thanks again for the help!

u/secliptic · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

https://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-4-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B0002T6L5M/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1517847735&sr=8-17&keywords=tds+meter

Bought this to see how bad my water was in the first place. Then I compared my filtered water to distilled water from the store which had about 2-5 ppm.

u/fs2d · 1 pointr/shrimptank

>TDS: ppm or µS/cm or something else? The deaths/overfeeding release more ions than just ammonia, and in small tanks that makes an notable impact on the TDS. I guess that‘s where it comes from.

ppm - we have this tester, which is pretty awesome to have around. :)

>The deaths/overfeeding release more ions than just ammonia, and in small tanks that makes an notable impact on the TDS. I guess that‘s where it comes from.

I'm guessing it's the deaths then, although I don't know why I'm still getting 1-2 die-offs every day or two still. I'm clearing the bodies immediately, water changing as it happens, etc - but it keeps going up.

>Do you have pictures?

Of the shrimp with the fuzz on their nose, or the dead ones? I went looking for fuzzy-nosed shrimp today and couldn't really find any, so I'm guessing that maybe it was just sand that got kicked up during the water change that might've fallen off maybe?

>Another guess would be that in the tank the substrate turned anaerobic, but never had enough resources to make problems, but that could have changed the moment the tank was overfeeded, so dies the tank shows signs of being to anaerobic, like having bad-smelling H₂S bubbles rising from the substrate or a foul smelling substrate?

I'm not seeing or smelling any - I am familiar with anaerobic conditions in tanks as I've got 15 cories between two other tanks and have to watch that stuff like a hawk. I stirred it up today to aerate it a bit and tried to siphon out some sand from the stirred layer in hopes that any extra bad food would be sucked up, but I do have to be careful because there are SO many shrimplets in there right now.

That's definitely possible, though, I guess. :(

u/BrewFool · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

They are. A semi-permeable membrane filter with REALLY teeny tiny pores.

You can inexpensively and reliably test their filter condition with a simple durable tool. And at ~$0.30 a gallon it's rather inexpensive.

u/evilbadro · 1 pointr/Coffee

>did you know that was why you prefer your CBR to be lower and why it allows for more strength without over-extraction?

Yes, I have been aware of this since I started messing around with espresso. The influence of extraction vesus TDS is almost impossible to overlook when working with espresso. One thing I hadn't really noticed is that extraction percentage is related to a chalky mouthfeel. I actually like a very modest amount of this expression. In general I probably prefer both a higher TDS and more extraction. What influences me to moderate both of these is that what I like the most is complexity. Dialing up either TDS or extraction begins to shut down the cup long before results become unpleasant for my palate. I generally chose both of these to optimize for complexity. I also like certain expressions such as the sweetness of Guats or the bramble of dry processed Ethiopian beans and sometimes enjoy letting those dominate significantly rather than pursue complexity. In most cases the roast is more of an influence but tweaking the brew is also required to find the window through which expression appears.

What is the problem with cheap digital TDS meters like this? I really like the burr diagnosis you mention. I've had problems with grind that drove me nuts before I figured out that was the culprit.

u/Frackenbrau · 1 pointr/Homebrewing
u/Moatilliatta_ · 1 pointr/Aquariums
  1. You can get a digital TDS (total dissolved solids) meter or the API GH/KH liquid test kit.
    From my understanding, dH (German degree of hardness) is not a specific measurement but rather a conversion to/from ppm (1 dH = 17.5mg/L or ppm).

  2. Snails (even the pest/pond/bladder variety) are generally a good thing. A sudden bloom of snails probably indicates overfeeding, as your snail population directly reflects the amount of food available for them to eat. Less food = less snails. Feeding less and cleaning more should decrease the population, but you might want to keep the ones you have to clean up what's already available in the tank. Afterwards, their population will regulate itself.
u/William_Carson · 1 pointr/microgrowery

PPM is a measure of the total dissolved solids in the water.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Total_dissolved_solids

They make cheap meters that can measure ppm or ec of the water.
https://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-4-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B0002T6L5M

Soft water tends to have a lower ppm and hard water tends to have a higher ppm. Reverse Osmosis filter water will have a ppm at or near 0. Generally for growing cannabis you want a lower ppm.

u/LocalAmazonBot · 1 pointr/Coffee

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Link: tds meter


|Country|Link|
|:-----------|:------------|
|UK|amazon.co.uk|
|Germany|amazon.de|
|Canada|amazon.ca|
|Italy|amazon.it|




This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting).

u/dannoffs1 · 1 pointr/Coffee

TDS is a slightly inaccurate term. You use a refractometer to measure concentration and then do some math with that and your brew parameters to give you your extraction percentage. The cost of a coffee refractometer puts it out of reach for everyone aside from coffee shops and crazy people. Matt Perger has a good post on why you should refract

If you don't have $1k laying around, the second best option is to buy a tds meter and try to get as close to scaa spec as possible with your water and then following a pre-calibrated recipe.

u/3rd_Party_2016 · 0 pointsr/orlando

you can buy a cheap tester like this one to test the water before and after...