Reddit reviews Homasy 80 GPH (300L/H, 4W) Submersible Water Pump, Ultra Quiet for Pond, Aquarium, Fish Tank Fountain, Powerful Water Pump with 5.9ft (1.8m) Power Cord

I bought this pump. It goes up to 80 GPH which is a perfect amount of water flow for the water (~2 gallons). I have some rigid tubing attached to the outflow that points straight up. The pump is strong enough to shoot water out of the tank, but I have it shoot into a flat rock so the water spreads out - like an umbrella effect, or like when you hold a spoon under the faucet and it makes everything wet. The supporting rocks allow the water to trickle down instead of making a mess.

Use a small aquarium pump on a timer, a bucket of water, and an emitter.
https://www.amazon.com/Homasy-Submersible-Aquarium-Fountain-Hydroponics/dp/B00EWENMAU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1482282190&sr=8-3&keywords=small+aquarium+pump _____
https://www.amazon.com/Rain-Bird-SW20-30PK-Irrigation-Watering/dp/B0049C5G18/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482282288&sr=8-1&keywords=gph+emitter

This pump on amazon is only $8 right now, vinyl tubing at a LFS or hardware store shouldn't be very expensive and some places (usually ma&pa type places) might even give you a small piece off their large stock roll for free if you only need a foot or two. Along with some cheap filter sponge and carbon in the chamber you should be good to go

I use this in my 29gallon: Homasy 80 GPH (300L/H) Submersible Water Pump For Pond, Aquarium, Fish Tank Fountain Water Pump Hydroponics with 4.9ft (1.5m) Power Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EWENMAU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Xb88ybM7F3VBV

Hey, the mechanics of it (i.e. not the code) is pretty straight forward

I have this pump plugged into this power relay

The Raspberry Pi has GPIO pins and you can control those in your code. They can be hooked up to the power relay to switch the power on or off. The pump is submerged in a water reservoir and plugged into the relay so when the Pi switches it on, the pump starts pumping.

Most of the pumps I've used have been submersible. Keeps it cool, helps with noise. There are a ton of tiny fountain pumps available for not much money like this one. If that one is not available any good garden store will have 'em.

First, do you have enough coolant? If you're low it won't get heat. Easy check, your bottle should be half full cold.

If you're up for wasting possibly two hours of time and investing in a small electric water pump you might be able to clean and seal your heater core instead of needing to replace it, because of how sucky it is to fix.

https://youtu.be/M9SIafVsqyc this is the basic flush half. It blows water backwards through the core, getting all the chunks out without getting them into your cooling system. Worth every second you do it with how crap it is to get to the core.

If you do this and you don't end up with water on the passenger floor and the water flows freely, stop and reconnect everything and test your heat. You may be good to go.

However, if you got water on the floor in the passenger side after doing this, next is step 2:

Using the same tools from the flush half, also get a small water pump, a small bucket, and a bottle of radiator stop leak.

A pump like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EWENMAU/ works great since it's cheap and practically disposable. Hook the output side of the pump into the normal coolant in side of the heater core, put the pump in a bucket, and fill the bucket with distilled water ($1/gallon). Dump the radiator stop leak into the bucket. Put the hose that goes out from the heater core into the bucket so that you are running water up the pump, through the core, and back into the bucket. This is to get as much stop leak into the core as possible and not affect the rest of the Jeep's cooling system.

Plug the pump in and let it run for an hour or so. If you used the pump I linked, roughly 80 gallons will have circulated. Which is about 160x the capacity of the heater core. Then flush some clean water through it for a while. You should not have any more water leaking into the passenger footwell.

When you reconnect the core back to the vehicle, be sure to add extra coolant or keep an eye on the level when you run it for the first few minutes since it was empty and needs to be refilled.

I've done this on my liberty and my wife's Chrysler Town and country since they both suck to get to and it's held up for over a year now.

1. You can usually just score and snap the acrylic sheets depending on the thickness. Lots of videos on how to do that (King of DIY and Aquarium Coop have some).
   
2. Most likely any sort of small powerhead/pump would work with such a short head height. I'm not sure on the GPH needed, but something like this:
   https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EWENMAU
   
3. Whatever you want. Most sumps go mechanical filtration where water comes in followed by biological.
   
   You could also just set up a Mattenfilter and not worry about:
   
   

• Getting a return pump
  
• What if the return pump fails (guess that applies to the air pump that drives the Mattenfilter too though)
  
• Filter media (Mattenfilter is a giant sponge filter, so done)
  
• Cutting acrylic sheets
  
• Securely attaching acrylic to glass (Silicone doesn't bond to acrylic, so it won't be watertight but maybe that's fine for you)
  
• What if the grill at the top clogs
  
• What if the pump/heater is too large and you need to move things or get a different pump/heater.

If you're lazy like I am, I use a small submersible pump + hose to pump water to my tanks.

Just adding some more info since I've been trying to come up with ideas. I've been attempting to figure out what goes into and sourcing the parts for a drip system. These are some parts I've come up with:

pump

1/2" tubing

1/4" tubing, emiters, t-fittings

I'll still have to try hand watering til I can get the parts but is that basically all I'd need? Well, other than a reservoir. I'd considered having a recycling res using the half-bucket I currently use to catch runoff given I have enough headroom for the pump. I could probably fit about a gallon of water in there. Given I have enough headroom does that sound feasible? If not I don't really have to recycle anyways. Just a thought.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EWENMAU?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

Here you go. I'm an idiot and forgot it in the other comment

This;

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005QRDCP2?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

Plus this;


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EWENMAU?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

Plus this;

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010TIEMP6?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

Equals this;

http://s119.photobucket.com/user/gunzen31/media/617D1269-81D4-45D6-BAAA-E0B97B1D596F_zpsf3btyjod.png.html

33 dollars plus tax free shipping. Add some Chaeto and you have a good sized refugium with a pump that fits perfectly with a piece of 1/2 flexible tubing to connect the pump to siphon tube.

This one is similar to mine. Any small submersible with a 1/4" outlet should work in the 60 to 80 gph range.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EWENMAU/ref=psdc_402303011_t1_B005G6TPVI

A submersible fountain pump should be fine. Bonus: it'll use standard sized tubing. https://www.amazon.com/Homasy-Submersible-Aquarium-Fountain-Powerful/dp/B00EWENMAU/

Add in some pond liner for the your tables to protect whatever you're making it out of from the water and to smooth things out and there ya go.

Be sure to put a fine screen mesh to keep junk from getting into the pump.

I would look into an 80 gph (300 liter/hour) pump. This is the one I use (https://www.amazon.com/Homasy-Submersible-Aquarium-Fountain-Powerful/dp/B00EWENMAU/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=80+gph&qid=1565881098&s=gateway&sr=8-2) and it triggers my bell siphon fine.