Reddit reviews Hopkins (11838MI) FloTool Oil Drain Container - 15 Quart Capacity

Here is the filter you need (just search for the model number on Amazon and you can buy it there. Your model number is KN-138). For oil, I run Rotella Synthetic, but any 5W-40 or 10W-40 will work (the 5 and 10 just designate the temperature at which it will still run well, ie 5 C or 10 C. I live in the north east so I go for 5 for peace of mind). Regardless of which you choose, you'll need about 2.9 quarts for a full (ie with filter) change.

Get some nitrile gloves (especially for spreading oil on the filter when you install it), shop towels for clean up, and you may want to look into getting a new crush washer for the drain bolt (not sure if/when yours has ever been replaced. They can last a while, but it's not a bad idea to replace it if you aren't sure). An oil filter clamp isn't a bad idea to help with getting them off, but I doubt you'll have issue with it. Don’t forget a good oil drain pan (I recommend this one with a screw in, top spout – this is what the oil would drain into – the oil filter holder on the top so it can drain over 24 hours, as well as a front spout), as well as a funnel to help you get the oil in.

Let me know if you need help with anything else. I've found these instructions helpful for those new to it and they are the exact same for you, too. What do you need to change the rectifier for?

From what I've heard, you don't actually need to take your wheels off to dip. If you don't know what tools you'll need to do it, then you probably should go this route.

However if you still want to get some good tools to learn how to work on your car, here's what you'll need:

Floor jack this is the Harbor Freight one. It can be found in stores for as low as $70 depending on coupons. It's actually a pretty decent jack. Its very low and it lifts well. It's pretty good quality too, just very heavy. If you're not in the states/near a HF, do some research on a decent one as you don't want to drop your car on anyone/anything.

Jack stands you'll need four if you want to take all your wheels off at once. I don't have these stands and I don't know anything about them so do your research on some good ones (they don't have to be very expensive) and make sure to get some that will support your vehicles weight. Remember, be safe.

Breaker bar this will help you get the leverage you need to break your lug nuts loose. It's a very smart idea to properly torque your lug nuts back down when you put your wheels back on so they don't fall off or you don't snap a stud. Here's a combo kit with a torque wrench and that same breaker bar I have a few Tekton brand tools and I'm very pleased with them. They are a fantastic budget option that isn't junk. I would definitely buy from them again (and I'm a bit of a tool snob)

Lug nut sockets this is a generic kit that I have no experience with. You'll need a socket to fit on your breaker bar and torque wrench. This is a set with multiple sizes, you only need one size for your car so if you want to save some money, figure out what size your lug nuts are and just get one socket. The ones in this kit and some you'll find elsewhere are coated in a plastic sleeve to prevent scratching on your wheels.

Gloves Gloves aren't necessary but some people like them to keep from getting their hands super dirty. You can get as cheap or as expensive as you like with gloves. These seem to be popular. If you do go to HF to buy a floor jack, I like their heavy duty black nitrile gloves. They're disposable and very strong.

This should be all you need to get started with changing tires and whatnot. I'm on mobile so sorry for the inevitable typo. Good luck with your wheels and don't forget to post pictures on the finished product. I'll link some more tools below this if you'd like to build of a kit to do basic maintenance like changing your oil, etc...

Socket set This is a very good place to start with sockets. I linked a 1/4 drive and 3/8 combo set. The smaller 1/4 inch drive sockets are great for small places and will be fine for a lot of your car. The 3/8 inch drive set is good for larger fasteners or things that are a bit tighter. If you were only going to get one, I'd get the 3/8 drive. Alternatively if you want something a little bit better, GearWrench makes very good sockets and ratchets for a good price as well (more than Tekton but way less than "professional" tool truck brands)

Oil drain pan Doing an oil change is a great way to do maintenance on your car and get started before you do bigger things. You'll need to drain the old oil somewhere so a pan like this is perfect. You don't need anything too fancy. I think I got mine from my local auto parts store for ~$10.

Screwdrivers There's a million different options for these. My personal favorites are the Wera Kraftform screwdrivers they are super comfortable and they have a special non slip tip that is amazing. I don't want to use any other screwdriver ever after this. (They're on sale now too!! They're usually about ~$10 more than this. I almost want to get an other set just because)

Pliers These are great pliers at a good price. Keep them clean and they should last a long time. I'm very happy with mine.

I can't think of much more right now. You'll know when you need something else. This also depends on what kind of car you have. Jeeps for example, use a lot of torx fasteners so you'd need torx sockets for a lot of stuff. Just make sure you watch a lot of videos on how to do things and make sure you're comfortable doing whatever it is you're doing. The last thing you want to do is damage you or your car.

Very easy, no need for fancy tools but you do need a few basics:

Something like these:
http://www.amazon.com/Blitz-11903-Rhino-Ramp-8000/dp/B000AMMN9O
http://www.amazon.com/Blitz-11838-Oil-Drain-Pan/dp/B000AMGYNA/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1313509663&sr=1-2
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63250-Range-Filter-Wrench/dp/B0002SR4PY/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1313509691&sr=1-2

Before you start, you ought to take a look under the car to make sure the oil filter is easy to access. A PITA oil filter makes the job a lot harder. Read this on how to safely jack your car and look underneath it: http://autorepair.about.com/od/safetyfirst/qt/jack_safety.htm

Assuming everything is A-OK: http://autorepair.about.com/od/regularmaintenance/ss/oil_change.htm

Save the empty oil jugs and pour the used motor oil from the drain pan into the jugs (I like the gallon sized jugs for that reason). Go to Autozone or a simliar location, they'll offer free oil recycling.

The oil change itself usually only takes about 10 minutes, it's usually right next to effortless, and you'll know that some jiffy-lube place didn't rip you off ;)

Oh, and the first couple times, they're serious about 3/4 of a turn on the filter, and only a medium-effort hand tight: too tight and it's going to be impossible to get off later. I don't pre-fill the filter with oil. After you've filled it up, I usually run the car for a minute or two on the jack stands to make sure I don't have any leaks. If everything looks good, back it off the ramps, turn it off and check the level after a few minutes (to let the oil drain down into the sump). If everything looks A-OK, remember to check under the car for leaks wherever you park it for the next few days. The more often you do it, the less you'll have to worry, but occasionally things do go a little awry: I once didn't realize the old filter gasket didn't come off with the old filter, so I had two filter gaskets on. One of them gave way once the temperature and pressure got high, made quite a mess. Also, had a stone or something put a tiny dent in my oil filter can, that eventually turned into a pinhole, that eventually turned into a steady spray. Luckily it was in a vehicle with an oil pressure gauge and I noticed my pressure slowly dropping and was able to drive somewhere I could work on it.

Good luck!

Get one of these.

Also, if I find out that you used a filter wrench to tighten the filter, I will find you and I will beat you with a tire iron.